Author Topic: any advice on a 8" jointer purchase? (Read 8593 times)

hackberry jake · « **on:** February 25, 2014, 06:52:14 PM »

I have been selling off some of my less used woodworking equiptment to justify an 8" jointer purchase. Prices range from $900 to $2,200 for new 8" jointers. The 8" parrallelagram jointer from grizzly with the spiral head is around $1,400. It looks like quite the deal but I know most of grizzlys tools come from Taiwan. I really like my general international table saw but general 8" jointers are $2000 without the spiral head. Ill keep my eye open for a good older jointer on craigslist as well. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Larry · « **Reply #1 on:** February 25, 2014, 07:32:10 PM »

From what I've seen, the new ones are all pretty much the same bore and stroke. The Delta DJ-20 is the best I've used but I'm not sure if they are still being made. Used ones are either beat up or they want your first newborn in trade. If one were to appear on craigslist at the right price, it would be in my shop in a instant.

I picked up a used Yorkcraft (the old Bridgeport company) for something like $450 a couple of years ago. It was new condition and had extra blades. It is the long bed version which I think is a near essential. Dust collection is poor. The cutter head speed is slow and will leave ridges if I'm feed too fast. I could fix both of those problems if I was really interested. Other than those problems it does what a jointer is supposed to do.

I seldom face joint but edge joint just about every board. That probably plays into my opinion.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #2 on:** February 25, 2014, 08:10:58 PM »

Quote from: Larry on February 25, 2014, 07:32:10 PM

If one were to appear on craigslist at the right price, it would be in my shop in a instant.

So thats why I cant find any good deals on cl!

t f flippo · « **Reply #3 on:** February 25, 2014, 08:32:39 PM »

Jake,
I bought the 8" Grizzly long bed with the spiral cutter head about two years ago. For the money it's a great machine.
I think there were two 8" long beds (?).I got the longest.78"(?) It is heavy,strong and accurate,when adjusted correctly.
The spiral cutter head is a 'must have' in my opinion. I have several other pieces of Delta/Rockwell equip. and the Grizzly turns the work out just as well,just the machine is not as 'polished'as the Delta stuff. The depth gauge indicator
on the Grizzly is poor quality but it works. Delta used to be great for parts and service but not anymore. Grizzly has been very good on parts and customer service. I've even gotten some Grizzly parts that were not available from Delta that worked on my Delta equip. For the money,I would not hesitate to buy it again.

tc

caveman · « **Reply #4 on:** February 25, 2014, 09:31:51 PM »

I have a four blade, 8" Grizzly and I have been pleased with it. I have never used a spiral head cutter but when the knives are sharp on this one, it does a good job. The only time I had a problem with a Grizzly machine was when a band saw I ordered arrived with a dented cabinet. They sent me a new cabinet and told me to keep the other. I like my Grizzly jointer as well or better than the Powermatic 50 and a lot better than the 8" Dayton. Good luck with your search for a good jointer.
Caveman

LeeB · « **Reply #5 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:31:48 PM »

I'll put my word in on the Grizzly also. I have been very happy with mine. Truth be told, they all pretty much come from Taiwan now anyway, just depends on the brand name specs as to the quality.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #6 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:45:22 PM »

Quote from: LeeB on February 25, 2014, 10:31:48 PM

I'll put my word in on the Grizzly also. I have been very happy with mine. Truth be told, they all pretty much come from Taiwan now anyway, just depends on the brand name specs as to the quality.

Its sad really. I heard somewhere that there isnt a single table saw made in the U.S. anymore. I have a general international saw and thats about as close as american made as you can get (Canada). I dont know if thats true or not so dont take it to the bank.

WDH · « **Reply #7 on:** February 25, 2014, 10:54:28 PM »

I love my Grizzly 8" jointer with the spiral head. Does a perfect job, just perfect. I have used it a lot. In fact, I have used it a whack

.

mesquite buckeye · « **Reply #8 on:** February 25, 2014, 11:23:36 PM »

I have a Rockwell, which I think morphed into delta from probably ca 1970. The beds are fine, but the fence has a slight warp which should probably be remachined, but it works fine if I am careful.

One thing- in the jointer game, I don't think you ever regret getting one too big. Many times I have wished I had a 10 or 12 inch.

I have also had decent results with grizzly equipment, although I have had to do some light touch up grinding on some of them to get the best results.

hackberry jake · « **Reply #9 on:** February 25, 2014, 11:55:04 PM »

Do you guys with 8" grizzlys have the model with dovetail ways or the parralellogram model?

LeeB · « **Reply #10 on:** February 26, 2014, 01:07:54 AM »

Mine has the dovetailed ways. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0656PX

WDH · « **Reply #11 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:37:49 AM »

Dovetailed ways.

JohnM · « **Reply #12 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:49:28 AM »

Quote from: Larry on February 25, 2014, 07:32:10 PM

I seldom face joint but edge joint just about every board. That probably plays into my opinion.

Larry (or anyone else

), how do you flatten/square the face of your boards than? Skim plane? Or I've seen 'planer beds' (for lack of a better term) in Fine Woodworking (I think

), a board with a bunch of screws in it to adjust the board you're planing. I've only got a 6" jointer (with a bad outfeed but that's for another post) and would love to find a way to do wider boards. (Hand plane...I know, I know... $:-\$ )

Sorry to highjack the thread, Hack.

I've been eyeballin those grizzly jointers for the better part of a decade now myself.

WDH · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:59:00 AM »

I flatten boards on the jointer before planing. On boards that are wider than your jointer, you can take off the cutter guard and flatten the part of the board that will fit the jointer. Then, attach a piece of plywood to the jointed face equal in width to the jointed face. You now have a flat guide face to use in the planer. With this method, you can get a couple of inches more than your jointer cutting width. This is a method that I have read about, and I am going to try it too.

LeeB · « **Reply #14 on:** February 26, 2014, 08:11:50 AM »

I had to read that twice for it to sink in. Sounds like a good idea. I wonder how much wider you can go? I suppose if you took off the guard and the fence, and then ran the middle of the board across you could go as wide as your planer will accept.

jueston · « **Reply #15 on:** February 26, 2014, 08:52:13 AM »

Quote from: LeeB on February 26, 2014, 01:07:54 AM

Mine has the dovetailed ways. http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0656PX

what is the dovetailed ways on a jointer?

ely · « **Reply #16 on:** February 26, 2014, 08:59:56 AM »

I am lost on the post above, what are you guys referring to as the face of the board,... I have always used my joiner , a six inch, to true up the edge or edges of my dried saw milled boards, I then use my 15 inch planer to plane the two sides of my saw milled boards flat to the desired thickness. what am I missing?

Planman1954 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 26, 2014, 09:35:44 AM »

The "face" is the wide area on the board that you are referring to as the "side." Generally, the ends are referred to as the "edge" and the flat area of the board is the "face." That's all!

JohnM · « **Reply #18 on:** February 26, 2014, 10:05:29 AM »

Quote from: ely on February 26, 2014, 08:59:56 AM

I am lost on the post above, what are you guys referring to as the face of the board,... I have always used my joiner , a six inch, to true up the edge or edges of my dried saw milled boards, I then use my 15 inch planer to plane the two sides of my saw milled boards flat to the desired thickness. what am I missing?

Ely, this is the way I was taught to do it. I find Marc's videos to be very good and pretty funny, corny at times but funny.

If you don't have one face flat before putting it through the planer it won't come out flat and square to the edge. Not sure we're all using the same terms so maybe some of this is getting lost in translation. There are many here with far more experience than I that may be able to explain it better than me.

Red Good · « **Reply #19 on:** February 26, 2014, 11:02:05 AM »

There are a bunch for sale on craigslist around here , several 8" ones . Also some old cast iron ones that look a pile more sturdy than more modern stuff . Good luck .Red

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Author Topic: any advice on a 8" jointer purchase? (Read 8593 times)

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