Building a truck garage?

[Woodhauler]

My truck is 45ft or so empty, so how big would you build it? We have harsh winters up here so i think frost walls are a must. Most likely have heat in the floor to. I think i will build a garage and stick to one truck for now. But.................. if the right deal comes up on a truck ,you never know. :laugh:

[thecfarm]

I would have a partial cement wall too,2-3-4 feet high. I would go with at least 2,keeps the water splatter off the sides. I would also bring in enough gravel to get the whole thing up in the air. Over the years it sure will settled down and not up. Heat in the floor is good,but I would want something with forced air too. Open up that big door and drive in a cold truck,that will take the floor heat some time to warm the place back up.

[PAFaller]

Build way bigger than you think you need from the get go, its cheaper in the long run than adding on. The sawmill I cut for has room enough in the shop for a wood shop with a parts loft over top of it, then if you park everything right a skid steer, a Cat 920 Loader, and the L9000 log truck. And you can still work on the bench, use the press, the metal cutting bandsaw etc. I think the whole this is 80x120. They 'heat' it, I use that lightly as its warmer than outside but not toasty either, with a giant home built stove that will take 4 foot slab chunks. Another thing I like about theirs is there are big sliding doors on 3 of the 4 sides. makes it easier to get stuff out if you have something else in the way and torn apart.

[LittleJohn]

I would have a partial cement wall too,2-3-4 feet high. I would go with at least 2,keeps the water splatter off the sides. I would also bring in enough gravel to get the whole thing up in the air. Over the years it sure will settled down and not up. Heat in the floor is good,but I would want something with forced air too. Open up that big door and drive in a cold truck,that will take the floor heat some time to warm the place back up.

You would be amazed how fast the air temperatures come back up after openign a door.  Now warming up that 10 tons of truck is where the problem might be!  Also make sure they slope the floor good, cause nothing worse than having large puddles to work in .  Alos, make sure you insulated edge of slab, don't want to have to break out the lawnmover in January, casue grass around the buling is nice and green.

The old man has a 4k sf garage (rough estimate of 100 tons of concrete in floor) heated to about 55F, with only in-slab and he pulls in tractors and duallies all winter long.  Its not livable or anything but its a nice temperature to work and tools don't stick to you hands.  It also takes about 2 days to heat up in the fall, but once its there it stays there.

[Woodhauler]

Build way bigger than you think you need from the get go, its cheaper in the long run than adding on. The sawmill I cut for has room enough in the shop for a wood shop with a parts loft over top of it, then if you park everything right a skid steer, a Cat 920 Loader, and the L9000 log truck. And you can still work on the bench, use the press, the metal cutting bandsaw etc. I think the whole this is 80x120. They 'heat' it, I use that lightly as its warmer than outside but not toasty either, with a giant home built stove that will take 4 foot slab chunks. Another thing I like about theirs is there are big sliding doors on 3 of the 4 sides. makes it easier to get stuff out if you have something else in the way and torn apart.

I am thinking one big door for my truck, one small door for cars or pick up to come in. 60-70 ft long,and how ever wide it needs to be. Kinda putting the second truck on the back burner! Getting to old to lay around outside to work on stuff. Been paying a guy 75-100 bucks a weekend to wash, grease , change tires or whatever. I would do 95% of it myself if it was inside. Tinker and drink a few cold ones on the weekend!

[Woodhauler]

I would have a partial cement wall too,2-3-4 feet high. I would go with at least 2,keeps the water splatter off the sides. I would also bring in enough gravel to get the whole thing up in the air. Over the years it sure will settled down and not up. Heat in the floor is good,but I would want something with forced air too. Open up that big door and drive in a cold truck,that will take the floor heat some time to warm the place back up.

You would be amazed how fast the air temperatures come back up after openign a door.  Now warming up that 10 tons of truck is where the problem might be!  Also make sure they slope the floor good, cause nothing worse than having large puddles to work in .  Alos, make sure you insulated edge of slab, don't want to have to break out the lawnmover in January, casue grass around the buling is nice and green.

The old man has a 4k sf garage (rough estimate of 100 tons of concrete in floor) heated to about 55F, with only in-slab and he pulls in tractors and duallies all winter long.  Its not livable or anything but its a nice temperature to work and tools don't stick to you hands.  It also takes about 2 days to heat up in the fall, but once its there it stays there.

Most likely will have a wood heater inside if insurance allows it. If not I would go with a boiler outside and heat house and garage.

[47sawdust]

You will never regret having a warm place to work.I have a 3 bay garage,much smaller than what you have in mind,The center bay has an Alaskan slab,side bays grade beam with crushed stone.The center bay is heated and is multi-functional.It is built similar to a monitor barn,gable roof on the center bay with shed roofs on the two side bays.
This is the time to do it as soon as the frost gets out of the ground.By next year at this time you will be wondering why you never did it sooner.
Good luck and have fun.
Mick

[snowstorm]

you dont need frost walls and the price will go up quite a bit. a 40x60 would take 45 yds of crete. post it 16' with a 14x14 door with opener along with a smaller one. mine is 40x40 and it isnt quite long enought.

[snowstorm]

my slab is 6" thick and 12" around the edge. its going to crack they all do. when i did mine i rented a vibrating screed it gets the air entrapment in the crete way down making it stronger

[snowstorm]

another 30yds or so for frost walls with the footing then fill the inside will make for more hand work. then drainage around it

[Woodhauler]

If i keep the floor heated, imost likely won't go with frost walls. Had a couple of concrete guys already recommened the 12 inches around the edge and less in the middle. Going to measure my truck, it will be built 20 ft longer then my truck is. Like they say it costs twice as much to add on! If you are coming up snowstorm you can give me a price on my dirt work. I have gravel thats close ;D

[snowstorm]

will be over tomorrow will let you know when. the iveco guy is coming in the am

[jwilly3879]

Heated floors are nice to work on but in our cold climate any municipal garage I've seen with in floor has major condensation problems. Several people I know have abandoned the floor heat and gone to forced hot air. We just retrofitted our highway garage with spray foam insulation and supplemental forced air heaters. The infloor seems to evaporate any water on it quickly and raises the humidity plus there is very little air movement.

[snowstorm]

i have 2 modine heaters in mine and it works well. when i insulated the ceiling i used 3"foam with the fiber on bolth sides it was made by firestone. they use it on flat roofs with tar on it. it worked pretty good screwed to the trusses

[Mark K]

Our shop has heated floors. Big enough to park two tractor trailers in there side by side. Plus a tool room and a bathroom. One big door on one end and a 16ft door on the other. I would highly recommend another heat source. Open the big door on a below zero day and it takes a while to warm back up. We put two floor drains in. Ran 2" pvc line around the whole shop to run air lines off of. We put an air hose end on the air tanks of our trucks so if they do lose air from sitting in the shop we just hook an air hose up and build pressure. That way trucks arent idle in the shop. 

[Wellmud]

I built a new shop about 7 years ago, 60x120 on 4 foot concrete walls with 4 overhead doors 12w x14h, a trench drain in the center of the floor, fully insulated walls and 12 inches in the ceiling with white metal on the walls and ceiling, with the downturn in the economy I had to halt spending on the building and never got a heating system installed, most winters the coldest it has gotten was 38 deg. but this winter (worst in several years) it hovered around 32 deg. for a couple of weeks. I really like the concrete walls and the trench drain, when I pull the trucks in, in the winter time the slop drains to the center and not toward my doors. The only thing that I would have done different would be to have gone with 14 x14 doors, 12 foot is wide enough but you have to pay attention to your mirrors.

[OntarioAl]

Definitely go with the in floor heat.
1/ insulate, insulate, insulate (specially under the floor) its cheaper than fuel in the long run.
2/ put an air exchanger in to control humidity and freshen the air.
3/grade your floor towards the center of the shop and make a sump 12" wide x 2" deep maybe 1/2  the length of the building  cover it with grating. It will in addition to sockets, nuts and bolts it will collect water or any oil or fuel leaks. The hydro carbons can then be collected with spill cloth the water picked up with a shop vac.
4/70 F floor temp seems to be common locally
The local Chev Dealer has in floor heating that was designed for our climate which can be extreme with the opening and closing of doors and entry of frozen vehicles the
employees love it. But the system was designed and built to meet the job specs.
Al

[Woodhauler]

My neighbor has a truck garage, big enough for 3 tractor trailers, has heat in floor. Never seen a day it was below 60 in there . This is a working garage.

[justincase]

Built mine when I had a loader truck 75 by 30.  6 inch Slab on grade rebar 16 inch square. 6x6 posts every 8 feet with trusses 3 foot on center. Built a 30 by 16 shed roof on back and 75 by 16 shed roof down the side. Sold the truck 2 years ago and since have accumulated a lot of stuff. Just barely got my skidder in this week to work on it. No matter how big, it still isn't big enough. Concrete cost as much as all building materials for me. We milled a lot of materials ourself.

[Autocar]

I have some friends that park two knuckle boom trucks with pup trailers and a loader and skidder during mud season . It has 12 inches of cement with copper hot water heat in the floor . They heat it with a wood fired boiler thats made in New York state but did use a Greenwood boiler like mine. Take two loaded trucks and trailers covered with ice and snow by morning everything is as dry as a summer day. Temperature runs in the 70's during the coldest days. They also have a slight slope in the cement floor with drains running the length of the truck and trailer you never have to push any water off with a broom. Big dollars to build a building like that but sure bets laying on a peace of cardboard or tin like I do. I have a big pole barn I park my stuff in but thats about all you can say its a place to keep them dry.

[Ken]

I agree with the comments about the size.  Make it bigger than you think you need.  Also a slight slope on the floor with a drain in the middle would be a must.   Would this be wood framed or a steel building?   Concrete poured 2-4' above the floor would be good to reduce risk of fire when welding or torching.  I'm hoping to build a shop within the next couple of years and have also considered an outdoor boiler that could heat the shop and house that will also be built on that site. 

[Woodhauler]

I agree with the comments about the size.  Make it bigger than you think you need.  Also a slight slope on the floor with a drain in the middle would be a must.   Would this be wood framed or a steel building?   Concrete poured 2-4' above the floor would be good to reduce risk of fire when welding or torching.  I'm hoping to build a shop within the next couple of years and have also considered an outdoor boiler that could heat the shop and house that will also be built on that site.

I will be wood framed with steel inside and outside.

[xalexjx]

our shop is 42' x 68' with 16' ceilings, my garage at the house is 32x40 with 13'6" ceilings, Both have 4' of concrete wall inside and full frost protection (4ft), the garage at my house i have radiant heat with 2" foam underneath the slab, it is easy to heat but have to keep it at 68-70 deg or i have moisture problems, our shop we leave at 55 and the has a heat exchanger and we pull the trucks in there every night and wash them a few times a week and dont have close to the moisture i have in my garage. If i were building a new shop Id go same size but with a combo of infloor heat and forced air, because the heat loss when you open the doors and the temp gets down it takes a while for the radiant to catch up. Go plenty big the first time.  ;) (Both are heated by outdoor wood boiler)

[Onthesauk]

Floor drains if code lets you.  Drive in with the wheel wells packed with snow and then a nice warm shop, need somewhere for the water to go.

[Brian_Rhoad]

If I was building a shop to work on trucks and equipment I would have a pit to work on the underside of the trucks.

[CTL logger]

In the 13 years I had trucks, I had two different shops one was 50x36 with one big door in center you could squeeze two trucks in there. The one I built was 60x60 with two doors in the end you could get three in there comfortably if I would've put more doors in there I could've put 4. It had poured concrete walls 10 inch heated concrete floor and 17' ceilings. If I did it again I would build a pole building and save the money on the concrete walls they were 4 foot above grade and back then there was no easy way to insulate them. A guy I know has a Morton building with vaulted ceiling I like that easier to lift loader up inside.

[Stephen Alford]

 

 
  Hey woodhauler there is a thread on this one under alternative methods section page 2 , just something to put under options.    :laugh:

[Woodhauler]

Have decided on 40x60, one 14x14 door one 12x12 door. Heat in floor . Metal on walls roof, and inside.

[CTL logger]

Have decided on 40x60, one 14x14 door one 12x12 door. Heat in floor . Metal on walls roof, and inside.

Sounds perfect for what you want to do. Bet you'll miss working on things in the dirt!

[BargeMonkey]

 Pole building is the only way to go. We put up another hay barn/equipment storage last year, 40x100 with 3 14x14 doors. I dont know how many of you get the PA farm paper but thats the place to look for a building.

[hardtailjohn]

You'll love the floor heat! Mine's 60x60 with a 20x60 lean-to.  With the floor heat on, you pull something in at night and in the morning, it's dry...soooo nice!!!  Please don't put PVC in for air though... I had that in a shop and one day when I was at lunch, it blew. It drove knife sharp shards of PVC pipe right through 2 airplanes and into the walls and ceiling. If I'd been in there, there's no doubt in my mind I'd have been hurt or dead. I'd heard all the "horror stories" about that happening, but didn't believe them until it happened to me.
John

[snowstorm]

You'll love the floor heat! Mine's 60x60 with a 20x60 lean-to.  With the floor heat on, you pull something in at night and in the morning, it's dry...soooo nice!!!  Please don't put PVC in for air though... I had that in a shop and one day when I was at lunch, it blew. It drove knife sharp shards of PVC pipe right through 2 airplanes and into the walls and ceiling. If I'd been in there, there's no doubt in my mind I'd have been hurt or dead. I'd heard all the "horror stories" about that happening, but didn't believe them until it happened to me.
John

you make a good point there. i have seen pvc used for air lines quite a few places. i always thought it was only a matter of time before it came apart

[Woodhauler]

You'll love the floor heat! Mine's 60x60 with a 20x60 lean-to.  With the floor heat on, you pull something in at night and in the morning, it's dry...soooo nice!!!  Please don't put PVC in for air though... I had that in a shop and one day when I was at lunch, it blew. It drove knife sharp shards of PVC pipe right through 2 airplanes and into the walls and ceiling. If I'd been in there, there's no doubt in my mind I'd have been hurt or dead. I'd heard all the "horror stories" about that happening, but didn't believe them until it happened to me.
John

you make a good point there. i have seen pvc used for air lines quite a few places. i always thought it was only a matter of time before it came apart

Never thought about pvc, black iron pipe is what i have seen used.

[hardtailjohn]

Yep, hard to go wrong with Black Iron pipe for air!  The other alternative I've been seeing more and more around here is the flexible tubing specifically made for air. It sure is easy to put in and so far, I've not met anyone that wasn't happy with it. (Rapidair or something like that)
John

[Remle]

If you are putting the 2 doors side by side on one end you might consider putting another one on the far end or on one side. Their is always something you need in the back corner you need to get out and without a door back their you need to clear a path to the front and it usually only happens when you have something torn apart and immobile. My third door has saved me much time and grief in moving things in and out.

[Woodhauler]

If you are putting the 2 doors side by side on one end you might consider putting another one on the far end or on one side. Their is always something you need in the back corner you need to get out and without a door back their you need to clear a path to the front and it usually only happens when you have something torn apart and immobile. My third door has saved me much time and grief in moving things in and out.

Won't be anything in the way, only got one truck, and will have two doors! Starting to get qoutes on materials, this is for doors, windows and metal and studding,every thing to make it weather tight. Leaving inside walls bare for now. Doing ceilan with metal and insulating it, the 2 prices i have are 22,000 and 24,000 same material list. Second guy says he will beat all others! Got 3 more out there .

[Doorman]

As my name implies I do garage doors
I hear it all the time "I should have made it bigger"
Do your homework now, you will be happier in the long run
As for as door are concerned.  Doors and windows are your weak areas for heating.
The less doors and windows the better (but not for me) within reason, you need natural light and access.
Do your research on doors THERE IS MORE TO AN INSULATED DOOR THAN IT'S R FACTOR
Just because it says R-16 doesn't mean it is overall R-16
There is a door out there that has 1/2" of white polystyrene as insulation in it and the manufacture calls it R-6
A better door will cost you more now....but down the road

[thenorthman]

The shop at my folk's place is something like 60x60 with a lean to down one side, and a pit has hanger style doors that are probably 16' or better tall.  Grandpa would pull the yarders in and work on em.  Plenty of room for most things until dad stuffed it full of snowmobiles and hot rods.

Its heated with a decrepit old wood stove, which doesn't do much since the gable ends are open for about 4' on the back side and the walls are ruff cut doug fir and no insulation... so if its the dead of winter we end up using a kerosene jet heater, but it keeps most of the wind and rain off, and the floor is concrete so its better then rolling around in the mud.  The pit is full of water so I've never used it, water table there is like 3' deep even in the hottest and driest summer... and my uncle dropped a stump through the roof about 25 years ago so one corner has a bit of a leak...

Despite all my attempts as a youth no one has burned it down or blown it up yet ;D

[glassman_48]

woodhauler,
My brother in law owns a large truck repair business.  He can get 3 semi's in at a time.  He has an outdoor boiler with in floor heat.  He also has an outdoor boiler for his home and one outdoor boiler at his mothers house.  He spends a lot of time keeping the outdoor boilers full of wood, especially his moms.  He is changing all 3 out door boilers to ones that use wood pellets with large hoppers that will last a week at a fill.  For him it makes sense because his time is so valuable operating his business.  I process all their wood every year but he still spends a ton of time keeping them filled, and the wood stacking etc.  I just got him a dealership today for selling wood pellets, his first semi load will be for just for his family. 

[Woodhauler]

Have decided on 40x60, one 14x14 door one 12x12 door. Heat in floor . Metal on walls roof, and inside.

Changing the plans up some, going 30 wideX 60 long. Only having one door 14X14. Putting a 3ft wide work benck along back wall. Still have room for car and pick up along one side. They will only be in on nasty days. Also will have a open storage with roof on the back for storage of firewood and toys.

[ga jones]

My buddy I bought the truck off of has a 60x160 pole building with pex tubing in the floor and an outside wood furnace. He burns 25 cords a year and said when he had forced hot air before he finished the pex he burned 35 cord.in my opinion pole building and hot water floor heat is the only way to go.there are ton of pole building manufacturers here too.mostly Amish

[LittleJohn]

My buddy I bought the truck off of has a 60x160 pole building with pex tubing in the floor and an outside wood furnace. He burns 25 cords a year and said when he had forced hot air before he finished the pex he burned 35 cord.in my opinion pole building and hot water floor heat is the only way to go.there are ton of pole building manufacturers here too.mostly Amish

I woudl believe that, the temperature for in-slab are way lower than those for forced air

[Woodhauler]

Well its game on!!!!  40x60 heat in the floor,14X14 door plus 12X12 door. Metal on roof, walls and inside! 2 ft poured wall on top of pad to build on. Only change i may do is make the 12x12 door a 14X14 door too! Shouldhave someone start clearing this weekend. Putting down 2 ft of gravel that will be dug out of the water. Should compact nice. ;D

[ga jones]

Make sure to go deep enough with concrete to park truck in it loaded.

[HuZzEy]

wood hauler did you get a price on metal roofing from mid maine metals in corinna by Bessy/s wood yard?

[rick f]

The Amish up in Smyrna always had the best prices around. I used to call give them the order and pick it up 7 am next day . I wish I could think of there name. to find them use the Ludlow exit on 95N and go left about 4 miles on the right. They have all colors and ass. in stock.   Koffman Metals, There I finally thought of it.

[repmma]

Who do you have doing the groundwork and concrete if you dont mind me asking?  I'm right beside you in freedom and looking to put up a 34 x 46 garage this year.  Ive been debating about the frost wall deal myself but think im going to go with a slab 6" with 12" outside as suggested by some contractors to support the 2' knee wall around the perimeter like yourself.  Doors, two 10x10's on the side and a 10x14 in the center, but i'm wondering if i shouldnt go 12x14 in the center bay... i dont suspect to have much big/tall equipment, just my forwarding trailer... but i'm building for the unknowns as well.

[KWood255]

Woodhauler ,

2 years ago I built a shop which is 30x50x10.5. I used 2x6 walls, steel roofing and steel interior/exterior. I also went with in-floor heat from my OWB, with 1/2 " pex in the floor, spaced every foot in each direction. I used 2" HD styrofoam under the floor, and vapour barriered the entire interior.

Biggest suggestion that I have, because I screwed up here: use shorter loops for your infloor heat. Period. I did 7 loops of approx 225' not knowing better. The problem is I loose nearly all heat in the water by the time it runs through that much pex, and it then "shocks" the OWB with cold water everytime the in-floor turns on. My floor is never hot, and hardly warm to the touch. The shop is kept at 10 degrees celcius (50-55f?).

Further, I struggled badly with condensation. My windows would be covered with water in the morning after the truck melts off in the winter. I also have a 16' floor drain.

My solution: installed a stand alone wood stove to be used as a backup heater. It clear up the condensation thr next day, and provided nicer heat. It still has not shut down !

All in all, the shop is everything I dreamed of and more. However, next one will be 40x80......but don't tell the wife.....

Good luck!

[chester_tree _farmah]

¾

The Amish up in Smyrna always had the best prices around. I used to call give them the order and pick it up 7 am next day . I wish I could think of there name. to find them use the Ludlow exit on 95N and go left about 4 miles on the right. They have all colors and ass. in stock.   Koffman Metals, There I finally thought of it.

Yes. I have used them also and they do have great prices. They manufacture it right there. Love my metal roof.

Cresent Lumber in Stillwater now manufactures and sells it too -not sure if price is as good as Koffmans. Cresent also mills a lot of the lumber they sell. They do hemlock and spruce dimensional. All lot of people by the hemlock off them for the savings.

[LittleJohn]

Further, I struggled badly with condensation. My windows would be covered with water in the morning after the truck melts off in the winter.

...knock off more snow outside!  :D

Sorry, not joking though ... condensation can be a real issue, if you are bringing in LARGE amounts of snow (water) in the winter and melting it off in any garage.  Only good way I could think to remedy this is to hook an exhasut fan to a humidy sensor, or run a de-humidifier

[Woodhauler]

Who do you have doing the groundwork and concrete if you dont mind me asking?  I'm right beside you in freedom and looking to put up a 34 x 46 garage this year.  Ive been debating about the frost wall deal myself but think im going to go with a slab 6" with 12" outside as suggested by some contractors to support the 2' knee wall around the perimeter like yourself.  Doors, two 10x10's on the side and a 10x14 in the center, but i'm wondering if i shouldnt go 12x14 in the center bay... i dont suspect to have much big/tall equipment, just my forwarding trailer... but i'm building for the unknowns as well.

Got 2 quotes on groundwork, all local guys and priced about the same. Ellis in swanville, Larrabe in Knox, And Snowstorm on here. Concrete will be done by Smiths concrete in Newburgh.

[Woodhauler]

All building materials are coming from Buxtons in Monroe maine, Beat all prices , even metal price too!

[xalexjx]

make sure if you go radiant you insulate under the slab

[LittleJohn]

make sure if you go radiant you insulate under the slab

Also insulate perimeter, would for you to have to pull out the lawnmower in February cause the grass in green and growing to high.

[Holmes]

If you decide to radiant heat . Use 3/4 or 1" tubing 350' max length per circuit. It has more surface area and less flow restriction, 6 to 8 circuits.  Tie the tubing down WELL with slightly tight wire ties [ties used for rebar or Upinor sells a lighter grade wire tire that works excellent]. Do not use the zip ties, they will break when the cement is poured if the cement is poured with a machine.  You could do the radiant tubing yourself if you want to just make sure you have it properly designed and follow the design.

[Woodhauler]

Concrete is all poured, 2 ft walls on top. Did 10 loops of 1 inch pexs heat. They are around 200-215 ft long. Nail pounding starts tommorow.Stayed 40X60 with 2 14X14 doors. 8)

[LittleJohn]

10 loops of 1" PEX 

You don't have to worry about restrictions in that system!! 
What size is the manifold/feeder line?

[ga jones]

U may have trouble keeping enough BTUs in 1 inch. 1/2 inch is what is recommended. You will need a 2 inch main and manifold.not to mention pumps!

[Woodhauler]

Concrete is all poured, 2 ft walls on top. Did 10 loops of 1 inch pexs heat. They are around 200-215 ft long. Nail pounding starts tommorow.Stayed 40X60 with 2 14X14 doors. 8)

I ment to say 1/2 inch! You would need a jet airplane motor to heat 1 inch pex.

[LittleJohn]

That's good to hear 1/2"; cause 1" is more like a SNOWMELT application, which would not be bad (if designed right), but MAN the PUMP would have to be MONSTEROUS

[Woodhauler]

Should i put sealer on my garage floor? It was finished to a smooth surface.

[ga jones]

That may be personal preference. It does wear off. I didn't like it. I Worked in a shop with it for about 5 years in the 90s.

[CTL logger]

Should i put sealer on my garage floor? It was finished to a smooth surface.

I would salt from your truck will be hard on the concrete I put two coats on mine it wears off where the truck sits. It's also easier to clean and less dust when you sweep, as much as you have invested in the floor I'd protect it with sealer.

[Peter Drouin]

It will be more slippery when wet.

[rick f]

I'd seal it , I did mine so the oils and spills won't soak in as much. also it is a lot easyer to sweep with less dust.

[Woodhauler]

FOR the price i have in the slab, and the cost of sealer, i guess i will do it when it is all up!

[CTL logger]

I used chem masters  poly seal A my concrete guy recommended it has a high amount of solids its a little pricey but seems to last a long time.

[1270d]

have you considered an epoxy paint for your floor?  makes it much easier to clean when you drop that oil filter etc.

[Woodhauler]

Got a day and a half in pounding nails, I would lots rather be hauling wood!!!  But the reward at the end will be nice! Me and my 71 yr old uncle will have half of it framed as of tommorow. He will be working on his own next wek building sections of wall and when i get home we willl stand them with the truck.