Enclosing a Timber Frame

[outbackbrandon]

So I've been scouring the internet for information on enclosing a timber frame.  I don't want to go the SIP route as I wouldn't be able to do the work myself (plus it's expensive).  Stick framing the exterior and then using rigid foam to insulate seems like a good option but also seems like it would use a lot of wood.  Framing between the posts was also an option.  I really like the "wrap and strap" method (is there a technical name for this) that I've seen a bunch in the forum.  It seems the most cost effective (constructing and energy wise) but I'm struggling with a couple things.  I haven't come across how exactly to frame in doors and windows with this method.  As far as I've seen the layers are as follows:  1) timber frame 2) 2x6 tongue & groove  3) tarpaper/felt 4) 3 or 4 inch rigid foam insulation 5) house wrap 6) 1x4 strapping 7) siding.  I get that the weight of the wall is held by the sill not on the strapping but it seems that the siding would weigh down on the strapping. I also haven't seen is detail on how to frame out windows/doors with this method.  Do you frame the rough opening of a window and attach it to the T&G?  Is it strong enough?  Sorry for my lack of knowledge.

[thechknhwk]

subscribing

[frwinks]

will 2x6 tn'g sheathing use less wood than 2x4 16"OC (or 24"OC if you find the right Peng. ) curtain wall with foam sheathing?

[outbackbrandon]

My thoughts are that since I'm going to be T&Ging the interior I'd be hitting two birds with one stone and saving time and wood (since I wouldn't have to cut wood for the interior T&G).

[ljohnsaw]

For my plan (as approved by my structural engineer and the county), I have 4x6 girts running between my posts (12' oc) in line with the top and bottom of my windows.  I will frame out the windows in this space.  I will use 1" T&G siding which will be attached at the sill (to the floor boards), at both girts and at the top tie beam.  There is also knee and top braces galore that will also support the siding.  My sill sticks out enough to take the 1" t&g, 5" of foam and 1" of vertical battens.  I am running horizontal Hardi Plank concrete siding to keep the woodpeckers and fire at bay.

[outbackbrandon]

That sounds like a great system ljohnsaw.  So if I'm clear you're able to see the girts from the inside of the house, if the T&G is on the exterior of the frame. Is your plan on the forum anywhere?  I would love to take a look at a plan that is approved).  Thanks ljohnsaw!

[ljohnsaw]

Yes, all girts and braces - the entire frame! - is visible on the inside.  If I'm putting all that work into it, I'm going to show it.  I have a thread on my build, as pitiful as it is so far (no permit).  There are some earlier skp files but don't remember how complete they are.  Quite frankly, I won't put up my completed plans now.  A lot invested in them and they would not be appropriate for other climates.  Too much liability.  Though, probably way stronger than necessary due to my snow load (~341 lb/sqft!!!).

However, I will update my thread with some "screen shots" of what it looks like.  Won't be completed this year    I scored some free fish scale Hardi Plank shingles (240 linear feet).  Enough to do 8-15 courses on the front "A" frame area to lend a little Victorian flare and break up the expanse of normal horizontal plank siding!  I need to play around in SU and see what looks best (top, midway or bottom of the A frame area).

[outbackbrandon]

Is there any detail you can shed on how to frame the window between the girts/exterior wall?

[ljohnsaw]

I haven't done it yet but my plan is to use a piece of 2x11 that is wide enough to go from the inside edge of the girt to the outside of the foam and battens.  The window flange will attach to the edge of the 2x11 and the Hardi Plank will cover the flange (along with some flashing, etc.).  In theory, this should work...

I cut this from my plans...
 

 

Hope this helps.