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Author Topic: Husky 350 won't stay running  (Read 7080 times)

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Offline DR_Buck

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Husky 350 won't stay running
« on: September 05, 2014, 09:47:14 PM »
I have a Husky 350 that will start but quit running within about 15 or 20 seconds.   I bought the saw used, not running.   I have replaced the fuel line, filter, spark plug and carburetor.   If I pull the throttle when it is running it stalls instantly.    It will start with the choke closed and sometime when it's open, but it will not stay running.

Any ideas?
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Offline JohnG28

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2014, 10:36:26 PM »
Have you had a look at the p/c? If not pull the muffler and have a look inside to see if there is any visible scoring. Other than that it could also be carb related adjustments, but I'd start with seeing if there is any internal damage.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Offline ZeroJunk

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2014, 03:58:59 AM »
Those saws were prone to develop an air leak where the manifold snaps together. If the piston is scored it would be something to look at.

Offline celliott

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2014, 06:30:14 AM »
Check the impulse line also.
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Offline weimedog

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2014, 08:08:01 AM »
Actually two places for potential air leaks. One is as already pointed out, the clamp on the manifold to cylinder connection.

The other is a leak under the bearing cap to  case area.

A new clamp is around $15 bucks and there are a few places on eBay to get those.

IF the cylinder has been wiped. USUALLY they can be salvaged with a little 150 grit emery cloth & elbow grease. An after market "flat" top piston and building it with no base gasket assuming there is enough squish to do that will result in a snappier saw than when you first bought the thing.

AND even if it turns out to be an ignition.... which also would fit the description of the symptoms, $15-$20 bucks on a Huztl ignition would get it running.

Even with all those possibilities, it's worth fixing because those little 350's done right are quite capable saws for what they are. No matter what is wrong with it, a complete carcass and under $100's bucks gets you a scream'in little saw!

I'm also certain there are a pile of folks who would either love to HAVE that saw for a project saw; or if you don't like working on would do that stuff for you.

Here is a pair of video's on that subject...

(The back story is salvaging a completely wiped cylinder. AND the game was to get it to run as good and hopefully better than a new 350. That cylinder had damage around the exhaust port and front where it's original ring had snagged to the point I had to grind the exhaust port in ways that made it impossible to get reasonable port timing as the exhaust port had to be raised to get past the damage! SMART people would have tossed the cylinder. CONVENTIONAL "timing" logic would say that saw would not run..... :) Bottom line is you can get a saw to run with some pretty rough parts with some pretty nasty numbers if you have some basic tools & skills.)

Start at Minute 6.45 on the first video and run until minute 10:00, THEN jump to the second video for the TWO subject's that probably are most relevant to your particular saw..... Pretty much ignore the rest...

(And to those who  watch the rest... Ignore the timing numbers I had on that saw, realistic numbers for a good "work saw" should be as a MUCH more knowledgeable person posted else where....Squish approx. .020"-025", intake 73-75 degree's BTDC, exhaust 104-105 degree's ATDC & blow down 18-19 degree's on a FRESH cylinder! Most wouldn't start with a junker)




Husqvarna 365sp/372xpw Blend, Jonsered 2171 51.4mm XPW build,562xp HTSS, 560 HTSS, 272XP, 61/272XP, 555, 257, 242, 238, Homelite S-XL 925, XP-1020A, Super XL (Dad's saw); Jonsered 2094, Three 920's, CS-2172, Solo 603; 3 Huztl MS660's (2 54mm and 1 56mm)

Offline Hitchcock Woods

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #5 on: September 08, 2014, 11:24:57 AM »
Try checking the carbon screen on the exhaust.  If it is filthy, just remove it and the saw should run fine.
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Offline JohnG28

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #6 on: September 08, 2014, 12:24:07 PM »
When I did up my 350 earlier this year,  as I was disassembling it I got the carb off and went to look at the manifold it came off in my hand. Was loose as could be but luckily hadn't done any damage. The clamp from factory is plastic and junk. The replacement for it from Husky has a metal clamp and is MUCH more secure. Also, check the muffler bolts,  they're known to come loose and a hot muffler can melt a hole in the oil tank. Not related to this issue I'm sure, but should you get it running worth checking. I used some Loctite on the studs. What have you found so far?
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: Husky 350 won't stay running
« Reply #7 on: September 12, 2014, 01:20:40 AM »
As noted before the muffler bolts WILL come loose if they aren't already and can suck cold air in on the hot piston when you shut it off and crack a piston (don't ask me how I know this). Anyway good luck on the saw I love mine but its just little to small any more and I got a Olympyk 962 give to me, gonna rebuild th carb on tomorrow. Good luck
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