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Author Topic: Best way to make a Dove Tail  (Read 2314 times)

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Offline jimF

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Re: Best way to make a Dove Tail
« Reply #20 on: September 18, 2014, 09:50:21 PM »
Depending on how large of production, you might like to look into a plunge router.  They can hog out lots of volume.  If you create a plywood jig, it could maintain support across such a wide groove and you can go across the 4x4 oneway on one side and the otherway on the other side so that you keep the direction of cut constant.
One question is, will it be only one board per side of bin? If more than one board, the section of dovetail socket on the post between the boards will be weak and tend to split off.

Offline Den Socling

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Re: Best way to make a Dove Tail
« Reply #21 on: September 18, 2014, 10:02:21 PM »
I have to pick up and read your book again. It was entertaining and informative. I spend my life with vac kilns so I need to brush up on conventional drying. I wish more here had bought it with the opportunity to discuss it with you, the author.
Sorry I hijacked the thread.

Offline mesquite buckeye

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Re: Best way to make a Dove Tail
« Reply #22 on: October 20, 2014, 09:32:04 AM »
Seems like a lot of work to make a weak joint that people may not be happy with. How about just plowing a dado groove, then just drill the side board ends and posts to match? You could set it up so you could drive in dowels made of rot resistant, but strong wood like black locust or walnut. If you put 2 holes in each sideboard, you could set up a jig where you drill one hole at a drill press, then flip and do the other. Same distance from the edge, easy peasey. ;D
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Offline 5quarter

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Re: Best way to make a Dove Tail
« Reply #23 on: October 21, 2014, 12:51:28 AM »
Dewy...another way to do it is to use 2x4s instead and cut 1/2 dovetails on a table saw. set up two saws at the correct depth and angle, one for the face cut and one for the edge cut. Make all your cuts on one and then the other join the 2xs together and you have your sliding dovetail. I have seen some made this way for leaf extension guides for old dining room tables. your stock needs to be dead on straight to ensure a uniform fit. I would run through shorter lengths. That is a strong joint when used in it's intended application (sliding), but not so much when subjected to lateral forces. on the other hand, the final corner piece would be pretty hefty and only needs to hold back a minimal amount of dirt. I would be more concerned about them being set up out of square and looking like crap. your dovetails will need to fit snug. you might even install guide block to the inside of the corners to prevent them being set up out-of-square. while you're at it, you could also add a stop at the bottom of each corner to make all the top edges flush with each other. it would also make it easier to just pick up a small bed and move it without disassembling it.

good luck.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
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