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Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods  (Read 307318 times)

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Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1480 on: July 26, 2019, 06:27:10 PM »
YH, you need lube for hardwood?
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Offline petefrom bearswamp

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1481 on: July 26, 2019, 06:27:39 PM »
In spite of the shake which makes sawing Hemlock a pain, When sawing this species I use NOTHING for lube 
Sawed about 120 1x6x8 this AM ( at my age I saw a half day) and no build up on the blade but the b57s sometimes need cleaning when changing blades.
In fact most species here require maybe a water drip to cool the blade only.
White pine I use a little e pine sol, then blast of diesel on  the blades before I take them off o clean them.
I dont envy you folks in the south with those  pitchey species, Boiled peanuts, Okra, etc.
BUT I like polenta AKA grits OK.
LT40SHDD51
Kubota 8540 tractor, Farmi winch
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1482 on: July 26, 2019, 11:23:57 PM »
YH, you need lube for hardwood?
Yep, sometimes.  
A also know you guys can run without it, and Iíve tried everything I could, sometimes I can, sometimes I canít, and I think itís a combination of things.  

Speed of sawing.  Fresh wood is wet wood, and it keeps the band clean.  The faster I saw, the cool the band and the cleaner the band.  No lube required.  However, I saw lots of dry wood too, and its like cutting dry concrete. It needs fluid to keep things cooled down and the band clean.  
Species is important.  I saw and sell about 20 species of hardwood, some need lube, some not. Hickory, white oak, pecan, a few others, without using lube, sawing as fast as possible, I.e belt slip or engine about to lug, the band will develop a rubbery pitch in just one or two cuts, and Iíve actually had smoke coming from the band on hickory.  Shoot a little diesel or other lube and within a pass or two, the band is slick and clean.  Even the big commercial circle saw rig in the road, does 1 million bdft per month, sprays hickory logs with water to saw.  Iíve had white pine that sawed like balsa wood, not lube required, and I have had @caveman pine where the sap was like road tar.

Set is important.  More set, less blade body pinch, less lube required.  Howvwer, in real hard wood, more pitch takes more horsepower, and causes slower sawing, which begins to build up pitch.

Application of blade lube.  With my old mill, when I upgraded to the Lubmizer after using drip for a couple years, the amount of lube required and pitch buildup was reduced by half.  Its a much more accurate application.

Diameter of logs makes a difference.  Small 12 to 16 inch logs I can blow through quickly, and lube is reduced or not even required.  The big 36 inch inch dry as a bone cherrys I was sawing this week, yep, need lube, or the band cakes up quickly.

High performance blade guides.  I donít think Iíve seem this mentioned before, but when I added HPBG to my LT40, I had virtually pitch free bands in some species.  It dawned on me that if they are adjusted closely, say a few thousanths if an inch to the band, they act as scrapers and will wipe off any pitch thicker than the distance they are set to the band.  So if they are set to .005 then thatís is all the pitch will build up.  So I have my HPBGís set pretty close and they wipe off pitch like a window scraper on a frosty morning.

Since I sharpen my own bands, I like them to be 100% pitch free and shiny when they come off the saw, at least the ones that donít break, so lube is required occasionally.  

Iíve used WM 10ís, 9ís, 4ís, 7ís, Turbos, in both 045 and 055, and Kasco 7ís 055, and Cooks Supersharps, and havenít found one I can say is better than others, as far as pitching up.  The worst Iíve found are a WM 4ís, they seem to pitch up pretty quck.  Iíve got a couple carbides, but havenít used them.  

Iíd like to saw some of your logs, ones that didnít require lube, and never sawn hemlock, or some of the other stuff.  

Thatís my experience with blade lube and my three mills, an LT15, LT40 and LT70 and Appalacian Hardwood logs.  
HobbyHardwoodAlabama.com

Offline Peter Drouin

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1483 on: July 27, 2019, 06:13:49 AM »
Old logs can make a mess on a blade. They do up here too.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Offline PA_Walnut

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1484 on: July 27, 2019, 07:10:39 AM »
 Iíve got a couple carbides, but havenít used them.  


@YellowHammer that is like having a can of race-gas for your drag car, and running on 87 octane! :D

Once you go to them, you'll never go back. Since I have a diamond wheel for my sharpener now, I have begun touching them up and getting them back on the mill. ESPECIALLY when doing those scrape-the-guides cuts on the WIDE or troublesome material. They scoff and hickory logs. ;D

They also require less set, are a bit thinner and leave a cut surface that is close to being planed. 

There's the All-Displaced-Metal-in-The-Universe-Finds-a-Log Law which warrants discretionary consideration, or I would not use any other blade...ever!
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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Offline Hilltop366

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1485 on: July 27, 2019, 12:44:04 PM »
On the LT70 I just can't turn the LubeMizer down enough and it sprays too much per pulse anyway.  So it aerosolizes the diesel and stinks everything up.  


No experience personally but I have seen posts about using a felt wiper that uses a horizontal U shaped holder for the thick felt then a little bit of diesel is fed to the felt.

Offline PAmizerman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1486 on: August 27, 2019, 08:22:46 AM »
I modified my modification. 
I built a WM style drag back fingers a couple years ago. It worked great but it rattled and made so much noise it was driving me crazy. So I cut off the metal fingers and welded on roller chain. 

I like the chain much better. It does not rattle. There is no limit to the number of boards that can be dragged back. The old solid fingers would bind if I got higher than the hinge point between the aluminum and steel. And the chain is 
"See through" it doesn't obstruct the view as much.

 
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and a lot of back breaking work!!

Offline Crusarius

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1487 on: August 27, 2019, 11:11:46 AM »
Is the purpose of that chain just to keep the board straight?

Offline PAmizerman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1488 on: August 27, 2019, 12:03:50 PM »
@Crusarius yes. I have a command control. So I can't just reach up to track the board
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Offline Magicman

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1489 on: August 31, 2019, 08:41:19 PM »
I have often wondered why more folks don't use roller chain   ???
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

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Online Bandmill Bandit

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1490 on: August 31, 2019, 08:58:38 PM »
PA Walnut

Do you set the Turbo 7į Carbides?

I do run them on the setter IF they are marking when I take them off the mill to make sure they are all set to 0į.    
If you ain't livin on the edge you are takin up way to much room. Of course at my age if I get too close to that edge any more theres a good chance I may fall off.
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1491 on: August 31, 2019, 10:02:37 PM »
I have often wondered why more folks don't use roller chain   ???
Probably because Baker uses them and so every manufacturer wants to claim a better mousetrap.  Iíve seen the big Baker mills run like a scaled cat, and the chains seem to work very well.  
HobbyHardwoodAlabama.com

Offline Bindian

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1492 on: August 31, 2019, 11:07:58 PM »
I have often wondered why more folks don't use roller chain   ???
Probably because Baker uses them and so every manufacturer wants to claim a better mousetrap.  Iíve seen the big Baker mills run like a scaled cat, and the chains seem to work very well.  
How do you scale a cat? smiley_huh2
hugs,   Brandi
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Offline Southside

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1493 on: August 31, 2019, 11:09:49 PM »
With chain you can't do like @Percy did in his video  :D

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fANNHQNhrro
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1494 on: September 01, 2019, 08:32:45 AM »
Scaled cats around are pretty rare, so when they see you, they run real fast.  Kind of like Bigfoot, just more rare. ;D
HobbyHardwoodAlabama.com

Offline SawyerTed

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1495 on: September 01, 2019, 10:54:36 AM »
This is a diesel lube application modification I cobbled together yesterday in anticipation of a large SYP siding job and a 1 MBF white oak job this week.

Itís taped and strapped for the time being.  I want to use it for a job to see how it works before finalizing mounting and hose etc.
 

 

 

   
Woodmizer LT35HD25, Kubota MX5100, IH McCormick Farmall 140, Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, Husqvarna 372XP, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Ram 3500 6.7 Cummins

Offline Woodpecker52

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1496 on: September 01, 2019, 10:51:59 PM »
Love my diesel lube, really needed it on white oak, found out after I had reset my 4 degrees that a lot of set is needed  in white oak.  Also that 4 degrees is not what I will buy in the future!!!!! 
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Online WV Sawmiller

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1497 on: October 05, 2019, 05:23:32 PM »
   Not really a mod but a useful item I found this week at our local HF was a pair of magnets about 1" X 2.5" X 3/8" for 99 cents. I bought a pair and find they are pretty strong and are perfect to hold my cheat sheet to the cover of my control panel when opened. Next week i will be back over there and I will likely buy 4-5 packs of them and scatter them around the mill to hold papers, keys, small tools etc.
Howard Green
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Offline Chuck White

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1498 on: October 06, 2019, 07:24:57 AM »
The magnets will also come in handy when you have to do maintenance in the field!

Put a magnet on the control console and when you remove a nut, washer, screw, bolt, etc you just place it on the magnet for safe keeping!  ;)
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer
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Offline jovol

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Re: Useful sawmill mods
« Reply #1499 on: October 21, 2019, 08:31:01 PM »
Recently bought an LT50 and it came with the board return. It's been great for reducing the labor pulling boards back (I mill alone most of the time, haven't found it dangerous it all using the board return solo), but I needed to split a 24" cant in half and found out the board return arm just barely interferes. Instead of unbolting the entire assembly, I set out to just remove the board return arm and pin. After painfully punching out the tight fitting set pin, it's easy to tap out the big pin and remove the arm. For reassembly, I just used an R-clip to set the big pin in place. Now, removal and installation take about ~5 minutes.

 The board return motor and bracket still take up some clearance with the arm removed, but just removing the arm gets you about 12 1/2" clearance.
2017 LT50 wide, 2004 LT40 G28 (for sale), ms250, ms661 42Ē granberg, Logrite fetching arch, 2000 New Holland LS180, Ford 6.0s


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