Author Topic: ANyone know what this hose is or if I am in bad shape?? (Read 1350 times)

Kipper · « **on:** November 30, 2014, 07:38:09 PM »

So, I was diagnosing what appears to be a stuck check valve on my lubemizer today and noticed a hose that was missing on what appears to be a motor. It looks like this hose goes from the top of the motor to the bottom and is maybe clear so you can see an oil level? As you see the picture is how I found it. Any ideas what this hose should look like?

Kipper · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2014, 07:38:44 PM »

Sorry, here is the link to the pic.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:02:56 PM »

It's just a piece of clear plastic hose. I think it's 1/2" ID. If that hose is missing, then the oil is missing out of your bearing. Don't run the mill without fixing that hose and filling the bearing!!!

Kipper · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:05:02 PM »

Ok, thats what I thought !! Thanks for the quick reply.

Dave Shepard · « **Reply #4 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:06:56 PM »

I hope it hasn't been run too long without oil.

Kipper · « **Reply #5 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:08:20 PM »

Your not going to believe it but I would guess about 8 hours or so.

I will call woodmizer tomorrow and figure out what type of oil goes in it.

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #6 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:18:21 PM »

It's just ATF. Not a lot in there but it does need to be in there. Looks like the top and bottom fittings are on that bearing and missing the hose. One can unhook it from the top, fill it into the hose and the bottom fitting, then when the level gets about half way up (where the decal says "oil level"), then reattach it to the top fitting. A bit hard to maneuver in there, you can use whatever connectors you like to make it easy to put it together. But clear hose so you can see the ATF. There is a slot in the band housing behind the driven band wheel, where you can look through to see the level when you have the band covers off, rather than taking the cover off where you have taken the photo from.

PS you'll want to make sure that grunge inside the bearing hasn't plugged it up. Run ATF in the top to make sure it comes out the bottom before filling & closing. Maybe blow through some compressed air at not too high psi.

Kipper · « **Reply #7 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:41:00 PM »

Thank you terrifictimbersllc !!

That is very thorough direction. When I saw it today I thought almost the same thing. Good to know its just ATF. I will work on it tomorrow evening after my 8 hours of jail time is done. We had the cover off chasing the Lubemizer blockage. Thinking about just bypassing the Lubemizer, mine hasn't worked since I purchased it so we just turned the valve on at the tank and it would always drain at the head on the blade. However today there was a blockage between the check valve and the head at the blade. Anyone know the Lubemizer system good?

terrifictimbersllc · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:48:44 PM »

Take it all apart carefully noting which check valve is which and what direction each is pointed. Put it back together with new tubing making sure the pump pumps forcefully on its own. The check valves I believe are 6 and 3 psi and both have to work only in one direction. You can expect the nozzles to jam up regularly. I have a wire tied to my mill that I use to poke through the brass nozzles to clear them out. A main thing is to just disconnect the tube where it goes into the nozzle head assembly and make sure that is pumping fully in operation either pulse or continuous. Suck out any air if you have to the cascade or WWF doesn't taste too bad. Then plug it back in and check that the nozzles are working right. If you mix too much WWF with Cascade or too much Cascade with WWF the cascade will precipitate and jam the filter and check valves. I don't use Cascade with WWF any more and I flush with water for 20 seconds on full between the two.

The tubing are standard sizes you can get at the hardware store. You might have to get one or two new check valves if something breaks be careful they're a bit pricey.

p.s. If I remember correctly the check valves can be opened up by twisting or something like that. I took copper wire and bound each one together to help protect them while getting the tubing on and off which can be pretty stressful.

p.s.s. Also as a former chemist a good trick is to soften plastic tubing ends by heating with with a hair dryer or heat gun, this and a bit of saliva on the fitting makes putting things together easier, less stressful on the parts.

p.s.s.s. if it's the wife's hair dryer wipe it off and put it back where you got it

Kipper · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2014, 08:58:03 PM »

Awesome !! I will look at it again tomorrow.

Thanks again for the level of detail, it means a lot.

Tree Dan · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:06:18 PM »

WM told me that that hose should be replaced every time you change that bearing oil (ATF) and the oil should be changed every year even if you dont put hrs on the mill, It will pick up condensation....i was told this just last week.

mikeb1079 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2014, 09:49:51 PM »

timely thread for me...i have to rebuild the lubemizer system on my mill as well. thanks guys!

highleadtimber16 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 01, 2014, 01:13:49 AM »

If I remember correctly Wood-Mizer suggests Dexron 3 ATF. Hopefully that bearing is ok!

GAB · « **Reply #13 on:** December 01, 2014, 12:01:27 PM »

Personally before toying with the check valves I would remove the upper nozzle and try the system. In my case, especially when sawing pine I have frequently encountered a plugged nozzle. I keep an old tooth brush handy to clean the opening area of the nozzle clean.
Whatever you do please let us know what you encountered.
Thanks,
Gerald

MartyParsons · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2014, 09:00:21 PM »

Hello,
Part # 016394 for the hose pre cut to length and soft, bends easily. $ 1.39 ech.

Bearing assembly $ 349.00.

The hose is something you should have in your parts box.

As you can see in the picture it gets brittle over time. The book says 500 hours. I would say once a year as preventive maintenance.

Hope this helps.

Marty

Marty

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