Author Topic: Stihl MS261C, MS261 What is the Difference? (Read 58972 times)

Ribsy · « **Reply #20 on:** January 08, 2015, 05:43:26 AM »

Quote from: Bilge Rat on January 04, 2015, 11:59:16 PM

Good mid sized saw.
Read your manual on running it. The M-tronic learns as you cut, run it in bigger wood to put a load on it and don't let it sit at idle for long periods.
It runs stronger after 5 to 10 tanks of fuel.

Get some non ethanol gas, all your saws will run better on it.
Another thing, don't believe the EPA. Run your saws at 40 to 1. Your saws bearings will be happier and that 261 will run great for years.

If you open the muffler up a little with a few fish gills on the left side that saw will make even more power. The M- tronic will adjust for it.

I want to thank everyone for all of the excellent replies. Interestingly, when I had picked up my new saw, I didn't get the manual with the tool kit. It had been set aside and no one thought about it. When I got home I just downloaded a manual from the Stihl website. The MS 261, 261C manual. No mention whatsoever of the M-tronic. That why I was so confused, considering I had no carb adjustments. Several days later and after I initiated this post, I was able to claim the manual from the shop and sure enough it is the MS 261 C-M. I hope Stihl will do something in the future to reduce such confusion...

A couple of questions that this thread has lead me to:

1) 40:1 is 8 oz to 2.5 gallons, right?

2) What is the proper process to open up the muffler with a few fish gills on the left side? This is new to me.

Thanks again everyone!

Warped · « **Reply #21 on:** January 08, 2015, 06:16:04 AM »

Quote from: WUDPIRAT on January 07, 2015, 04:49:03 PM

+1 on the 40:1 mix. Oil is cheaper than metal.
My first outboard ran 16:1, and I'm leary of anything leaner.

For you old timers, it was an Elto Ace, 1.8 hp, exposed flywheel that you wraped the pull cord around, float carb with a brass pin you depressed to prime, rotate the whole engine for reverse. had a lever that controled the speed ,advanced the spark.
It was a real two smoke, running down wind was an adventure.
SAE 30w oil. 8 oz to the gal.

My '58 Fleetwin calls for 30 wt., now it needs coils and it's first fuel pump.......and I do mean its first. The two line aint lookin so hawt

Warped · « **Reply #22 on:** January 08, 2015, 06:23:25 AM »

Quote from: Ribsy on January 08, 2015, 05:43:26 AM

Quote from: Bilge Rat on January 04, 2015, 11:59:16 PM
Good mid sized saw.
Read your manual on running it. The M-tronic learns as you cut, run it in bigger wood to put a load on it and don't let it sit at idle for long periods.
It runs stronger after 5 to 10 tanks of fuel.

Get some non ethanol gas, all your saws will run better on it.
Another thing, don't believe the EPA. Run your saws at 40 to 1. Your saws bearings will be happier and that 261 will run great for years.

If you open the muffler up a little with a few fish gills on the left side that saw will make even more power. The M- tronic will adjust for it.

I want to thank everyone for all of the excellent replies. Interestingly, when I had picked up my new saw, I didn't get the manual with the tool kit. It had been set aside and no one thought about it. When I got home I just downloaded a manual from the Stihl website. The MS 261, 261C manual. No mention whatsoever of the M-tronic. That why I was so confused, considering I had no carb adjustments. Several days later and after I initiated this post, I was able to claim the manual from the shop and sure enough it is the MS 261 C-M. I hope Stihl will do something in the future to reduce such confusion...

A couple of questions that this thread has lead me to:

1) 40:1 is 8 oz to 2.5 gallons, right?

2) What is the proper process to open up the muffler with a few fish gills on the left side? This is new to me.

Thanks again everyone!

2.5 X 128/40=
2.5 x 128=320/40=8 oz.

128 oz. per gallon

Just remember 3.2 oz. of oil per gallon of gas 128/40=3.2
I just took an old dry gas bottle and cut the bottom off and marked it at 3.2 ounces. When done, put the cap back on and no mess.

JohnG28 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 08, 2015, 09:45:35 AM »

If measuring for 40:1, use the recommended oil for 50:1 and then use 0.8 gallons instead of full gallons. This will give you 40:1.

Bilge Rat · « **Reply #24 on:** January 11, 2015, 12:05:35 AM »

On the muffler mod question
You can look on some of the other forums and find some good pics/info on just how to do it, arboristsite has some good threads on this.
One thing is to remove the muffler from the saw and after doing any work to it wash all the metal filings out with brake cleaner before putting it back on.

The saw will pull any trash left in the muffler back into the cylinder causing ugly damage.

Run/breakin the saw for a while before doing anything to it. Any warranty issue will show itself. Your dealer may not like you modifying muffler if there is any issue. After the saw has proven itself and you have time for research you can do a muffler mod. It will give you a little more power and it allows the saw to run cooler.

See you are in north Ga. Pretty area and good wood.
Enjoy the saw, it is a good one.

CTYank · « **Reply #25 on:** January 11, 2015, 12:39:03 AM »

Quote from: 4x4American on January 04, 2015, 08:44:21 PM

You made a fine choice for a saw. Shocked the dealer didn't know anything about the computer controlled carb. I had a friend who bought a stihl 441c, and it wasn't working right since he got it, he brought it back in and the dealer changed the computer on it or plugged his computer in or something and he's loved it ever since. I'm with you on the whole trusting it part. What if it goes bad and leans the saw out and then seizes it. On the other hand, I get nervous trying to tune a saw with a limited coil on it, because I can't use my tachometer and have to tune it in the wood.

What's the issue with that? That is THE way to go. "Tuning" solely by tach is a crude kludge; I've seen the results from dealer "geniuses" being waaaaaay off the mark. At best, it's a first step. Under load, in the wood, is what it's all about. Don't believe me, ask some genuine experts.

JohnG28 · « **Reply #26 on:** January 11, 2015, 07:08:49 AM »

I did a thread a whole back on modding a muffler on a 361. The procedure is pretty much the same, may need a different deflector, not sure if the one I used would fit a 261? Either way this will get you started. And as mentioned, allow the warranty to expire before modifying anything or the warranty will be void.

Edit: I just read back in my thread and someone posted their 261 mod in there, and it shows the "fish gill " mod also.

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,69759.msg1046894/topicseen.html#msg1046894

Ribsy · « **Reply #27 on:** January 13, 2015, 08:20:00 PM »

Thanks guys!

HolmenTree · « **Reply #28 on:** January 14, 2015, 11:32:44 AM »

Ribsy convert your 261 over to a Picco b/c and rim sprocket setup with the 63PS chisel chain .
Will put a smile on your face for a long time

Ribsy · « **Reply #29 on:** January 14, 2015, 07:59:32 PM »

Thank you Holman. I will do that.

4x4American · « **Reply #30 on:** January 16, 2015, 06:51:30 PM »

Quote from: CTYank on January 11, 2015, 12:39:03 AM

Quote from: 4x4American on January 04, 2015, 08:44:21 PM
You made a fine choice for a saw. Shocked the dealer didn't know anything about the computer controlled carb. I had a friend who bought a stihl 441c, and it wasn't working right since he got it, he brought it back in and the dealer changed the computer on it or plugged his computer in or something and he's loved it ever since. I'm with you on the whole trusting it part. What if it goes bad and leans the saw out and then seizes it. On the other hand, I get nervous trying to tune a saw with a limited coil on it, because I can't use my tachometer and have to tune it in the wood.

What's the issue with that? That is THE way to go. "Tuning" solely by tach is a crude kludge; I've seen the results from dealer "geniuses" being waaaaaay off the mark. At best, it's a first step. Under load, in the wood, is what it's all about. Don't believe me, ask some genuine experts.

Whoa whoa whoa! I must not have explained good enough. On a saw with a limited coil, you have to check for four stroking in the wood. You have to put it in the wood, then lift up on the bar, before it hits rev limiter and listen for four stroking. On a saw with a unlimited coil, you can get it to four stroke out of the wood, then put it in, and get it to clean up. I don't tune solely with a tach, I barely trust it, but I like to set the idle with the tach and I check for max speed for a goof, but, with my 461, I can't check the max speed because the rev limiter, and it's not as easy to check for 4 stroking. The rev limiter can fool you into thinking it's 4 stroking, when really its lean bouncing off the rev limiter.

I could be wrong, but that's my understanding of the situation. If there's a better way to tune a saw with a limited coil I'm all ears.

BTW are you same CTYank from AS? If so, any word on when the next NY Gtg is?

JohnG28 · « **Reply #31 on:** January 17, 2015, 08:05:59 PM »

4x4, where in the Adks are you? I'm just outside Utica and the family has a camp near Old Forge.

4x4American · « **Reply #32 on:** January 18, 2015, 06:37:07 AM »

Nice, I went through Old Forge a few weekends ago on 28. I'm in the Luzerne/Hadley area. About 20 min from Lake George.

JohnG28 · « **Reply #33 on:** January 18, 2015, 02:38:51 PM »

That's a great area up your way, I haven't been through this year but usually pass through that way when the wife and I go up to Lake Placid or Keene.

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