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Author Topic: Plumbing freeze protection  (Read 3852 times)

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Offline cbla

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Re: Plumbing freeze protection
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2015, 05:57:43 AM »
for the camp I drain the lines and use a little Plumbers Anti-freeze, never had a issue yet. it is 3.99 for a gallon here.

Offline johnjbc

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    • The Beaver Camp on Cumming Run
Re: Plumbing freeze protection
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2015, 02:40:24 PM »
I have an old trailer that we use for a camp until get some thing better built. When I do I plan to put a warm room in the basement that will stay above freezing with little or no heat. Will probably transplant the bathroom, and kitchen, from the trailer, Along with space for a washer, dryer, and well pressure tank, to the warm area. Should take an area of about 12 x 20.

The up stairs of the cabin will be laid out so that all of the bathroom and kitchen factures are above the warm room. All drains will be extended to traps in the warn room. And all of the water supply lines will be sloped to manifolds near the pressure tank and hot water tank.

From the time we shut the water off until mid April we donít
use the camp much due to all the hassles with the water and food storage. Below is the instructions I wrote on how to winterize the camp and it takes 2 or 3 hours.

Instructions for winterizing the trailer.

1.   Turn off the pump circuit breaker. Note itís the only 220 breaker.

2.   Take the well cover off and open the valve that drains the pressure tank. Put the cover back on leaving the valve open.

3.   Open the kitchen faucet to allow the pressure tank to partly drain while you hook up the air compressor to the outside faucet and turn it on. Note there is a shutoff inside you may need to open, that turns off the outside faucet when itís cold so it wonít  freeze.

4.   Close the valve on the water line coming into the trailer.

5.   Open the drain valve that goes through the floor by the water heater, and the water heater drain valve. Note the air pressure should now force the water out of the hot water tank.

6.   After the hot water tank is empty close the drain valve that goes through the floor by the water heater. Note air pressure should build up in the water pipes.

7.   Flush the toilet a couple times till air comes in the flush tank. Then close the valve that feeds the flush tank. Itís in the closet in the bedroom behind the tank.

8.   At this point you are ready to drain the pipes. Open the following valves 1 at a time till no more water comes out. Start at the Bathroom end and you will have to do them several times
9.   -1- Flush tank fill valve -2-  Drain under the bathroom sink -3-  Sink hot -4- sink cold -5- shower hot -6- shower cold -7- kitchen hot -8- kitchen cold -9- hot water tank drain -10-  drain under sink -11- water supply shutoff valve.

10.   Disconnect the air compressor.



11.   Remove the kitchen drain trap and put a plastic bucket under it in case someone uses the sink.

12.   Get a plastic bucket and the Harbor Freight pump out of the closet. And pump as much water as you can out of the toilet bowel and tank.

13.   Put RV antifreeze in the toilet bowel and tank.

14.   Put RV antifreeze in the bathroom sink trap.

15.   Open all the valves and leave them open for the winter.

16.   Pack all of the canned goods or other things that will freeze.

17.   Clean out the refrigerator.

18.   Unplug the furnace burner inside the front door of the furnace


LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

Offline r.man

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Re: Plumbing freeze protection
« Reply #22 on: January 06, 2015, 04:23:44 PM »
I drain about 20 systems a year that are subjected to -30 temps. Put lots of slope in your pipes and plan well. If you have a shop vac use it to remove the last of the water from the toilet tank and bowl to minimize RV antifreeze use. A normal toilet uses the most antifreeze in a building. If you have a pump put in valves instead of plugs at all points that will need to be opened and closed. Plugs eventually strip. You can drain traps if you would rather save the antifreeze but you probably need to close off the sink with its plug and put something over or in the overflow hole to stop sewer gases. I say probably because I have talked to people who drain without blocking and they claim to not have had an odour problem. Guess it depends on the individual system. If you have a shower make sure the vertical shower head pipe gets drained. If in doubt put valve handles at halfway position.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

Offline johnjbc

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Re: Plumbing freeze protection
« Reply #23 on: January 06, 2015, 08:05:04 PM »
Good idea to use the shop vac. Why didnít think of that. That would be a lot easier than the Harbor freight hand pump.
Havenít had any smell at all. Could that be because    doesn't stink Or because our septic tank is hooked into a siphon tank that empties into a sand mound 30 ft down the hill?
LT40HDG24, Case VAC, Kubota L48, Case 580B, Cat 977H, Bobcat 773

Offline JohnG28

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Re: Plumbing freeze protection
« Reply #24 on: January 06, 2015, 09:25:31 PM »
We winterize our camp in the Adirondacks every winter.  Blow out all the water supply lines a little with compressed air and/or shop vac.  We also use RV antifreeze in all the drains/traps.  It even turns to slush when it's -0F for a while sometimes.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL


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