safety check..

[mclean]

I went out and bought an old corley mfg circular sawmill.  I'm curious if anyone sees any obvious (to someone who's been around these things) problems with this setup.

Its a 48" saw with a 40' carriage.  All steel construction.  Seems reasonably well built.

My biggest concerns are the area around the blade.  Its currently all open,  I've seen others where its guarded.  Is that the smart way to go? Ive read some stories about giant spears flying around..  What are the big things to look at on these before cutting?

Engine had a rat build a nest in one of the heads so thats down at a machine shop being cleaned and ground. 

Do many people run circular mills With the engine running a Hyd pump then the a motor spinning the flywheel and blade?  Is the belt the best option? Simpler- better. 

Thanks for any advise!

[mclean]

[sealark37]

You you will lose some efficiency with a hydraulic set-up.  A splitter behind the saw and an expanded metal shield between the saw and the sawyer provide adequate safeguards for most people.  There are several publications available that tell the whole story about setting up your mill.  Good Luck, and Regards, Clark

[schmism]

you can either search on the forums or browse youtube vids of circle mills that show how they have setup there headstock area.

Most have various planking that cover the drive shaft,  there was a discussion several months ago about about how people build in flip up boards next to the saw to extract slivers of bark etc that fall down and wedge themselves between the blade and the decking.   

some use rollers,  some use conveyor belting to move sawn chuncks away from the headrig....


Hydrualic motor setup has no benefit i can imagine, plus the motor and pump are going to be hugely expensive.  your talking like 60hp high flow pump as it only spins at like 500-600 rpm if its direct drive.   You could gear it down but again, even more complicated setup than just having a direct drive off a stationary power.

[beenthere]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

From the pics, not sure what that log chain means but assume it is for moving the husk around.

And the square 1" tubing rubbing the middle of the blade looks like a bad fix of some kind.. don't want to run it like that.

For starters, if you don't have it already, this link to a pub by Lunstrum is a very good rundown of circular mills, terminology, setup, etc.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf

[ddcuning]

I built a platform over my shaft and the bearing with a hinged section near the saw that lifts up to allow anything caught between the saw and the platform to pass. The cover keeps anything coming off the saw from catching on the mandrel and sending it back to the sawyer.

Dave C

[Bert]

Im thinking that 1" tubing is for the table over the shaft? Seems like an unfavorable location but who knows. Im also thinking I would belt the engine directly to the saw rather go through a hydraulic pump. Is this a handset mill? If so, then definitely don't need the hydraulic pump.

[homesteader1972]

 

 

I think guards are good. A few years ago I was helping a friend who has an old Frick. This particular day we were sawing some big SYP, and so his brother came over to help offbear. We were sawing this log that had a few splinters on the butt end where it hinged when felled. So, my friends brother and I just put on the stack a large 2x and turned around when I heard him scream. He caught a large splinter in the chin/throat, and we were 10+ feet from the blade and at an angle. Theres about 3 1/2 inches in his neck. All ended out well, some out patient ER surgery and all was good. This was what got me interested in band mills! I have two sons that help me do everything and after experiencing this, as well as hearing other horror stories as well, I wanted something safer.

I covered his face of course for his privacy.

[mclean]

Im going to start with the belt..  The way the mill is sitting in the yard it would be nice if the engine wasnt where it should be with a belt..  So I was thinking hydraulic would be a way to move the engine into a different position.  I have 2 large pumps off bucyrus erie finals. I was also thinking it would be nice to get a 50kw genset rigged up to it for aux power.  But, thats a lot of work.

Im not sure why that box tube is welded like that, the way its set up it seems like its helping with the blades deflection? 

Thats one hell of a splinter!  Definitely be putting up some guards before the saw gets going. Its hard to predict which areas will be ok to block without filling with dust or debris and becoming problems.  Its seems strange to have such large gaps around that blade.  Have to copy that swing board.

Thanks for all the input.  Ill check in for another safety meeting before I try to cut something..

[bandmiller2]

Mac. Corleys were/are good mills I'd set it up the way it was intended at least until you've run it a wile. Belts especially "V" are important on a mill they are a "weak link" and smooth out the operation of the power. You will hear a lot of horror stories, work smart, install some simple guards and you'll be fine. In my mind a mill where the working deck is the same hight as the arbor is the most dangerous as you could easily trip and fall into the saw. I like the arbor a little lower than waist hight and the table on top of the arbor long enough so you can't get too close to the saw. On my mill I have a piece of 2" pipe that comes up and across in front of where I'am standing. Its not only a safety device but a handy place to mount a throttle and cheat sheet. I have a piece of fireplace screen hanging between me and the saw. Stand to the side when feeding and giging back never in line with the saw. Have a throttle and remote clutch in the "sawyers box" when your doing anything other than cutting throttle back and disengage the clutch. Theres no feeling like watching a good log going through the saw the sights smells and hearing you diesel come up on the governor. Goog luck mate. Frank C.

[DMcCoy]

Chilling pictures.  I eventually put a board right up to the blade, maybe a 1/4" gap to keep little pieces from falling down next to the saw.  Boards 'drop' at the saw, any loose pieces can fall off.  Having that deck tight to the blade helped but you will still get some.  You will need to stop the blade to pull these out or get a stick with an aluminum nail to snag these.  I know a guy who took a splinter through the eye.  I also had a 12" power pole I could hide my head behind while sawing but could still watch the cut.

My sawdust drag would have a hard time keeping up when cutting cants into 1x.  I would have to wait until it caught up just to provide enough clearance so any small pieces wouldn't come back up the back side.