Something to discuss on blades

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I always say picking out a blade for someone is like getting a pair of shoes with no information other than a name. These will fit!



Marty

Old saying.  ;D

I agree Marty, but I love keeping mental records of how my mill is sawing, with what blade degree vs. what species I'm sawing and the time I'm gaining etc.

But I will add this that I failed to mention......I ALWAYS keep my blade tension at 2800-3000 psi. Whether this comes into play, I do not know....but it seems to work better on my mill. 

[ladylake]

 
After around 4 times of putting on a brand new 10° blade that cut wavy on the first cut and then sharpening that same blade at 4° and cutting perfectly straight 1/4" below the crappy 10° cut my sharpener stays at 4°.  Proof enough for me.   This is in wide white oak.  Steve

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

 :D :D :D :D :D

[gfadvm]

Marty, My brain saw LT15 but my fingers typed something else! Sorry about the confusion and I appreciate the replies.  Sounds like I'd best stick with the 10 degrees and save up for more HP to cut big hardwoods.

[4x4American]

Marty, My brain saw LT15 but my fingers typed something else! Sorry about the confusion and I appreciate the replies.  Sounds like I'd best stick with the 10 degrees and save up for more HP to cut big hardwoods.

That's funny, I thought you were talking about an lt 15 the whole time too, I didn't even catch it til he brought it up!  Funny how brains work..

[customsawyer]

There are some of us guys on this forum that make our entire living with our mills and we tend to swap info a bit over the phone and in PM's. It is always interesting that we have to remember that even though we are all cutting similar species  that the wood is different since it comes from different parts of the country. When someone is giving advice don't forget to look at their profile and see where they are cutting at.

[fishfighter]

With my mill, woodland, I been using 10 degree blades, I'm cutting red oak. After about maybe 200 bf, I find that the mill has to fight thru a cut. I'm cutting fresh fell logs. Heck, water pours out the ends. I tried using no lube to a lot or even cutting it on and off thru a cut. The logs avg size are about 20".

So, what I'm seeing is that I need more HP to used a 7 or 4 degree blade?

[Peter Drouin]

With my mill, woodland, I been using 10 degree blades, I'm cutting red oak. After about maybe 200 bf, I find that the mill has to fight thru a cut. I'm cutting fresh fell logs. Heck, water pours out the ends. I tried using no lube to a lot or even cutting it on and off thru a cut. The logs avg size are about 20".

So, what I'm seeing is that I need more HP to used a 7 or 4 degree blade?

Sounds like a dull blade after 200' . A sharp blade should go through a log with ease.

[fishfighter]

200' and dull? That fast?

[Peter Drouin]

200' and dull? That fast?

You can dull a blade in one pass.

[4x4American]

^he's right I've tried it before!

I have a question, do I have worry about disturbing the set when handling the blades?  I like to keep my blades uncoiled at home cause then I know I can't disturb the set.  Another thing is when I install a fresh blade, sometimes the teeth will get caught up on the metal going in.  I always try to be as gentle as I can but sometimes, it happens.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

When I put a blade on my mill, you'd think I was roping a calf in the rodeo.  :D

[Dave Shepard]

Do you charge admission, or just make your money off of concessions?

[Bandmill Bandit]

I am using the 10* blade and generally have been happy BUT i ve not tried others. Been think may be trying a 7*

I am sawing frozen white spruce right now an i am getting a 12 inch long  3/16ths ish bump in the first 18 inches of the cut on about a 1/3 of the opening cuts. it trims off just fine but it is annoying to say the least.

Any ideas on solving that one?

Also do i need a different grinding wheel for my CBN grinder to sharpen the 7/39 bands?
 

[terrifictimbersllc]

Do you charge admission, or just make your money off of concessions?

I think there's more than me that would pay to watch him.  :D :D :D

[Magicman]

I'm cutting fresh fell logs.

200' and dull? That fast?

What kind/brand of blade are you using?  Are you sawing dirty logs?

I have heard of Goat Ropings but I have never seen one.

[pineywoods]

Question for Marty.. I notice in one of your posts you mentioned a 9/29 blade. Is this a new way of describing characteristics of blades ? I assume the 9 designates a 9 degree hook angle. Does the 29 descibe the back angle and if so, from the horizontal or vertical ? It's been my experience that the back angle on a tooth can have just as much influence on performance as the hook angle. Case in point. I do a little sharpening for some local norwood sawyers. They tend to buy blades from whomever has the best price at the moment. One of them brought me some blades that had what appeared to about a 10 deg hook angle. The back angle was rather severe, resulting in a tall skinny tooth with a sharp point. After sharpening, those things cut like gangbusters, the downside was I could only get less than 100 bd ft before they dulled a bunch. Also, they needed re-setting more often than I like..Like most everything else on a sawmill, it's a compromise, you can cut fast or cut longer, but not both..

[ladylake]

 Piney
  I think your right, Cooks supersharp that has those  high back angle teeth which cut fine but can't take a nail hit and dull easy.  I think WM 7° turbo blades are headed in that direction but not as bad.   Steve

[fishfighter]

One pass on clean logs to dull a blade? Come on, really.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

One pass on clean logs to dull a blade? Come on, really.

I guess if it has a nail in it. 

[Dave Shepard]

It only takes one embedded stone to kill a band.

[mikeb1079]

It only takes one embedded stone to kill a band.

or silica infested bark. 

[4x4American]

The teeth like to cut wood, they don't like to cut anything else

[redprospector]

The teeth like to cut wood, they don't like to cut anything else

Oh, I don't know.
I'd bet they saw through flesh and bone without much complaint. 

[gmmills]

  Poston is right on the money in regards to the 4 deg blade profile.  The 4 deg blade would be my blade of choice if I were operating a mill with under 25 HP. That is based on the variety of hardwood species that are native to our region. I have been using 4 deg blades now for over 3 months. The only blade profile that is able to productively saw frozen hardwoods.  I use 4 deg blades on frozen, extremely dense, or dry  hardwoods. The 7/39 Turbo profile blade is used as the blade of choice for all other general sawing needs. Within a 30 mile radius of me, there are 10 full time bandmills in operation. We all are using the same 2 blade profiles. Not a one of us would even think of using a 10 deg blade. Even if it was given to use for free.

    I feel that the WM description of their 10 deg blade as a general purpose blade is way outdated.  For those of you that are in doubt. Try cutting W Oak, or better yet, hickory accurately and productively with a 10 deg blade. 

  To touch on a topic which Jake mentioned in a earlier post on changing the 7/39 Turbo profile being converted to a 4/39 profile. There are 5 mills, including mine, testing this converted profile this winter with nothing but positive results. The plan is to be able to use the penetration factor of the 7/39 Turbo in a less aggressive 4 deg hook angle. As an added benefit, we all can purchase one blade profile to cover all our sawing needs.  The conversion is made by using a custom made CBN wheel.  This is a custom profile only offered from this company.   http://www.rixsaws.com/wpimages/wpb8f0d819_06.png  If any one is interested in trying this conversion check into these wheels.