Tree farmer 1972

[crazy4saws]

Loving this thread....

Im glad your enjoying it man! When its all done Im sure Ill post some videos of it pulling wood! Thanks for reading

[crazy4saws]

Got a few pics, nothing real special. Oddly enough had the flu on Friday and Saturday so limited amount got done this weekend. I sandblasted the primary and secondary fule filters, a few of the brackets, and the oil sump of the air cleaner last weekend. The top part of the air filter wasn't de greased at the time. All openings were taped before blasting and painting. 

 
Here are the finished parts with 2 coats primer, 3 coats paint, and 2 coats clear. All high temp rated. After I spent all the time it did kinda seem like a waste but hey the parts look good. 

  

 

I drained and removed the hydraulic reservoir tank when I removed the transfer case to get it out of the way and to repair a bunch of leaking hoses. I hate to ask this question but is the piece that I am pointing to in the picture as breather/fill port or just a breather and the 1/2 plug to the right is the fill port instead? If it is a fill/breather what special trick is needed to open it? It spins in both directions but nothing happens. 

 

Thanks everyone, hopefully this weekend I will have some footage of the 3-53 running. Ive got the starter almost rebuilt.

[North River Energy]

The breather should pull straight up and off.  Some of those are held in place with a two prong expanding spring that grabs the inside of the pipe. Maybe rock it back and forth as you pull.

[tantoy]

The breather should pull straight up and off.  Some of those are held in place with a two prong expanding spring that grabs the inside of the pipe. Maybe rock it back and forth as you pull.

yep

[JustinW_NZ]

Looks great!
Makes me want to start pulling my one apart! (C4d)

I Also like to clean up and paint as i go, cleaned up things are easier to spot leaks on and stuff doesnt stick as easily to a nice paint surface which helps with crud buildup/fire issues in my view.
Keep it up!
Cheers
Justin

[tantoy]

detroit alpine green spray paint!
http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1618-Ceramic-Detroit-Diesel/dp/B00295T6G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442541754&sr=8-1&keywords=alpine+detroit

[crazy4saws]

Quick post, hot starter rebuilt and it's turning engine over fine. If I put a gauge on secondary filter which should fuel pump discharge what psi should I see? Also what vacuum should be seen on pump suction?


Working up in Michigan so should be home tonight. I will post more stuff when I'm home thanks

[grassfed]

According to the manual pressure at inlet manifold = 45-70 with a minimum of 35( PSI)

suction at inlet=6 clean system and 12 dirty system (inches of mercury)

[crazy4saws]

Thanks for that info grassfed. I just went through my manuals and searched any section concerning fuel systems and found nothing stating that. What section did you that from if you dont mind me asking.

I discounted the inlet line to the primary filter and used a separate pump to pull through that line. I flushed a couple of gallons out of pure thick yellow garbage. Once it cleaned up I reconnected to the primary and attempted to start. Nothing coming out of return line back to fuel tank. I removed both suction and discharge lines off pump and confirmed they were clear. Hooked suction back up and made sure the primary filter was full of fuel and cranked for about 10 seconds 3 separate time but no fuel came out of the discharge line on the pump, which was still disconnected. At one point I put a vacuum guage directly connected to the pump suction and read about 5 or 10 inches. However that gauge is probably not very accurate. Ive got to find a decent one in my shop or just go get one then Ill hook it up to the primary filter and test.

So Ive been reading the manual for atleast an hour or so. I guess at this point the pump needs to be gone through, but seeing that possible vacuum makes me think its something else or is somehow air bound.

The starter is working great, I replaced all 3 bronze bushings, oil wicks, along with new brushes and the brush holder. The springs were rusted badly but after soaking in some fluid they are working great. So $40 in misc parts and my time got it running. Can you post videos on the forum? I know you can link a youtube video but I dont have a youtube account.

Tantoy thanks for the link on the paint. Im a real big fan of the timberjack orange/red color and was thinking about painting this treefarmer that color when the time comes. I figure the black engine color and some other accessories would make it look even better. I hope this doesnt upset anyone about the color choice. Besides its a long ways off before anything like that gets done.

JustinW_NZ thanks for the post! I checked out your gallary. Your tree farmer looks nice, but not as shinny as that new loader!! and then I seen the cat528......I really thought that machine looked sweat. Those had the 6 cyclinder I believe while the 518 had the 4 cylinder. That grapple attachment seems kind small for such a big machine. Nice set up

I would post some pics but I really dont have much to progress done. Sorry guys

[bushmechanic]

The pump drive may be stripped out but sounds air locked. What I do to get a 353 started is to put a can of fuel over the engine and get the fuel comming gravity flow to the primary filter... quickest way I've found to get them going. The drive is a small square of tubing that drives the fuel pump and the earlier ones were pretty thin and prone to wearing through.

[ga jones]

You can pressurize the fuel tank. Detroit is super sensitive to air in the system.I have spare rebuilt fuel pumps if you need.

[clww]

Loving this thread....

Me too!

[crazy4saws]

Thanks bushmechanic and GA Jones for the help. I finally go it running....for a short time that is before I shut it down. I tried bushmechanics suggestion first and it seemed like it was getting some air out but it was still bound. I couldnt apply air pressure to the fuel tank and try to start it at the same time as I didnt have anyone there to help. So I pulled the return fuel line off the block, took the hose and pressure the nozzle of the air chuck into it while leaving the lid on the tank on and that got things going. Had a few fuel leaks to fix once the lines were pressurized. After alot of spatting and sputtering it started running for a few seconds at a time then it stayed running till something happened and it took off! I had a piece of wood ready in case of this and shut it down. Started back up and it went screaming away again. I got it on video too but Im not sure how to post that on here at this time. So im thinking injectors, governer, or air leak?? I want to post the videos so you hear what it does. At first it idles and runs good but then it just takes off.

I admit Im trying to cut corners by not going through all the injects before trying to start it. Hope you guys understand, just trying to get it running and see what I got.

Tore down the remaining parts of the cotta today.


 
This is one of the intermediate gears. There is more play in that gear whil eo nthe splined shaft than I care for. Notice the square groves seem to have a hook. I believe this is from said play.


 
I cant tell if the opposite gear in the intermediate section has the same wear as I cant for the life of me get this slotted screw to budge. Any suggestions?

 
Removed the hydraulic filter piece by piece. I like everything so far on this skidder but the hydraulic filter location. Whom ever designated that for the location of a serviceable was clearly not thinking. Absolutely no way to pull the filter without making a mess if you can even get to the bottom nut. Going to relocate is elsewhere.


 
Hopefully the filter can be picked up at napa. 
As a side note I did get the hydraulic tank fill/breather off. Felt like an idiot afterwards though haha

Thats all the photos for today. Doesnt seem like alot but it was along day and much was accomplished. So far I have removed about three 1/2 full shop vacs of grease, dirt, mice bedding, grease, twigs, leaves, grease, pine needles and then some more grease! lol Thank goodness this thing has a bottom guard that removes so I can get all that grease too!

Got alot of parts cleaning to do and some fabrications to build.

Need to get my bearings and seals ordered soon and pick up some more sand for blasting. Money is tight for now, trying to purchase some all wooded land near the house. Hasnt been logged in over 25 years, excellent woods and a great place to test out the c4b when its ready. Hopefully all goes well. meeting with my forester on Thursday to review potential value of timber.

Hope everyone had a great weekend and hopefully some of you were logging. I wish I had been!

[grassfed]

I found the fuel pressure specs in my 1980 Detroit Diesel Engines Series 53 Manual they are in 13.2 Engine Operating Conditions. There are all sorts of useful specs there. Airbox pressure, Exhaust Back Pressure...and such. It is located towad the back of my manual. 13.2 is six pages long.     

[North River Energy]

Are you certain the center of that gear is an actual screw, and it's not some sort of press-fit 'drive' socket?

Each injector rack and pinion assembly should move freely without binding.  Also the control tube pivots, such that the tube swings easily.  And the various elements of the governor can get gummed up with old oil sludge.
Bet that change in rpm got your attention.

[ga jones]

If there was oil in the cylinders and in the intake tract that would cause a run away

[ga jones]

Split that bearing and get it off before you go any further with that shaft

[Weekend_Sawyer]

Loving this thread....

Me too!

Yup, me three! 

[crazy4saws]

Found the problem!!!

  sorry for the pics being upside down.

I had it running with a board over the intake with a small crack to let it run for a few minutes. I was able to notice a few things oil pressure was 20 to 30 if the guage is correct and fuel pressure was 15 to 20 but I think I know why that is. The governer is stuck wide open. 

 
In the first pic the screw drive is pointing to the lever that runs from the govern to the rack. I traced it back and all the connections and rods are free until you reach the shaft that goes though the bottom of the govern box into the fuel pump. This shaft must allow more or less pressure to the injectors. Maybe tomorrow I will get time to read up on how to disassemble the govern. I know guys if I had followed some of your earileir suggestions and gone through everything there wouldn't be a problem right now. I guess that shows how young and strong headed I still am haha.

Here is what the rocker arm cover looked liked when I pulled it. Strange to see this clear stuff in certain spots. Not sure what it is. 

 

Thats the news on the detroit. Expect I seem to have found some more oil leaks to fix since it ran longer today.

Here is the clutch slave valve. Its too far gone to repair just gonna buy a new one. 

 

Grassfed thanks for sharing where you found that info. Every little thing helps.

North energy, no sir Im not positive that its an actual screw and I see where your coming from. The opposite site had a counter sunk allen screw in it with a special washer.

Oh indeed the rpms got my attention. When it first started it seemed to idle but then it just took off and it goes fast. All I could do to get the board across the intake. I wont lie I definitely babied it but then again I have never been around one. However the real attention getter was when the radiator shroud which helps direct the air through the fins dropped down and the universal joint for the hydraulic pump which was disconnected starter hitting it making all this racket but also shooting little sparks at me. Wasnt sure if the engine was blowing up or gonna self destruct. haha
I created a you tube account and am currently uploading some videos for you all. Ill provide the link when its ready.

Mr Jones as always thank you very much for your help. Im definately going to look into to replacing that gear with the worn spline keys.

Tomorrow I should have the remaining bearings off the shafts.

Thanks again everyoine for helping me out!

[North River Energy]

 Now you know what it feels like in the gut to have one take off on you.  Probably won't do that again, right? :D
That's what effective learning is about.  Making little mistakes that leave a lasting impression without harm to operator or machine.

And just because.(Love the sound on this runaway  )

https://youtu.be/3NRaqgab0_w

Count the turns on the adjusters when you disassemble the governor. Even if you have the manual, it makes things a bit easier to reset.

[crazy4saws]

Very true north river energy, words of wisdom! In will be going through r the governer and rack system before reforming it. Good idea on counting turns, at least that should get me in range and then later Have a Detroit tech do the finishing adjustments.

Not only is there a lot to learn mechanically but also about repairing things in general and being thorough the first time. It still amazes me that there are so many people on here interested about the project and those who are so willing to share their knowledge. You find that less and less each day. Thanks for the lesson 

[crazy4saws]

Try these links
http://youtu.be/NRAl-llyNb8
http://youtu.be/ySXyJ9MKzqk 

[ga jones]

Yep they work

[tantoy]

Very cool!!!, Thanks for taking the time to post the vids!

[grassfed]

Good job! One thought I would not make it too much of a habit of stopping it by cutting off the intake. The vacuum created is said to have the potential to damage the blower seals.