Author Topic: Logosol PH260 Owner/Operators thread (Read 4843 times)

thechknhwk · « **on:** September 15, 2015, 03:37:59 AM »

There seem to be several owners and or operators here, but not much chit chat on the machine. Please respond if you are an owner or operator. Perhaps we can keep a collaborative thread of tips, tricks, and fixes as well as questions and answers.

I bought a used PH260 single phase unit that was setup to run v-groove. I have run a couple thousand feet of v-grooved white pine and western red cedar through it. It seems to work well most of the time.

I do have an issue with the left side cutter head (from infeed side) that likes to quit spinning and jam up the works. It seems to happen more when I am running 8" blanks. I should take a picture as there is a board jammed in it right now.

Aside from the v-groove I plan to run ship lap and flooring through the machine for my personal use. It has currently netted me 2 paying jobs.

Anyways, thanks for reading and please respond.

jdtuttle · « **Reply #1 on:** September 15, 2015, 06:11:16 AM »

I also have a used PH260. It's been a good machine, the only problem I had so far is the chain broke on the power feed. It was a quick fix. I have 2 dust collectors on it & that helps with dust removal. My machine paid for itself in a couple years. I make custom moldings for renovation jobs & wood flooring and all the typical moldings.

thechknhwk · « **Reply #2 on:** September 18, 2015, 05:58:57 AM »

Here is the photo of my stuck board. The side cutterhead on the top of the photo is the one that stopped. I think they need a sharpening or just replaced.

PC-Urban-Sawyer · « **Reply #3 on:** September 18, 2015, 02:16:13 PM »

Yikes!

Well you were humming along, taking a FULL bite on both sides and encountered a MAJOR knot which caused that cutter to say HMMMMMMM think I'll rest for a while...

Seriously, the change in cutting load from the softer knot free section to that large but solid knot must have done the number on things. Hope you can get it freed up and everything is undamaged.

Herb

beenthere · « **Reply #4 on:** September 18, 2015, 03:13:44 PM »

But for sure, sharpen the knives.

Many benefits from sharp tools, no matter what the task.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 19, 2015, 09:41:56 AM »

Looks to me like the combination of the depth of cut and the fact that it hit a knot is what stopped it. You might want to size your blanks so that there is only 1/8" to 3/16 of excess wood that has to be removed beyond the finished board edge.

bond-lumber · « **Reply #6 on:** September 19, 2015, 10:16:09 AM »

I have a new to me (used 260) that i have just started using after some repairs that needed to be made after some shipping damage (while in transit to my shop). I have only run doug fir blanks for flooring (now about 5k lineal feet of 1x6. My first issue was the feed works stalling, that turned out to be a worn out drive motor that would over heat (replaced that last week and now seem to be working well). I have never attempted to cut as much material as you are with your side cutters, that looks to be a healthy bite to me!!!
Good luck!

never finished · « **Reply #7 on:** September 20, 2015, 07:03:50 PM »

My 260 would report me for abuse if I took off that much with a side cutter. I have learned the hard way with the 260 just like everything else I do. It is a finish machine. Get your material as close to the rite size as you can and it will do a good job. If not it will make you cuss A LOT VERY LOUDLY!

thechknhwk · « **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2015, 09:55:41 AM »

Anyone ever try spiral cutter heads for the top and bottom? Seems like it would be much easier on the planer motors, but it would make it difficult to switch over to molding profiles. I'm not totally sure, but I don't really see doing anything except tongue and groove profiles with it though.

https://shelixheads.com/SHELIX-heads_for_Planers/SHELIX_Heads_for_Planers_by_LOGOSOL/SHELIX_for_logosol_12_inch_Planer_%28P260_COMBO_%28BOTTOM%29%29

Brad_S. · « **Reply #9 on:** November 24, 2015, 10:16:54 PM »

Quote from: scsmith42 on September 19, 2015, 09:41:56 AM

You might want to size your blanks so that there is only 1/8" to 3/16 of excess wood that has to be removed beyond the finished board edge.

I own one too but use it sparingly. I agree with the above! IMO, you are asking way too much of it to hog that much wood off!

thechknhwk · « **Reply #10 on:** December 05, 2015, 10:16:28 AM »

Where do you guys buy your side cutter knives?

steve marek · « **Reply #11 on:** December 05, 2015, 01:09:56 PM »

I would like to see one in action does anyone in Wisconsin have one I could see runing

jdtuttle · « **Reply #12 on:** December 05, 2015, 01:37:37 PM »

Quote

Where do you guys buy your side cutter knives?

I buy custom & standard knives from this company. Good communication and very fast service.
www.moldingknives.com/

thechknhwk · « **Reply #13 on:** December 05, 2015, 06:09:16 PM »

I ordered some knives from them but they seemed awful expensive. Like $170+ for a set of 4. I got a set of ship lap and a v-groove profile. unbeknownst to me the v-groove profile was different from the wmoore profile the previous owner had and would not work together.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 06, 2015, 10:53:28 PM »

Quote from: thechknhwk on December 05, 2015, 10:16:28 AM

Where do you guys buy your side cutter knives?

W. Moore Profiles is where I bought mine. Great folks. Typically side cutter knives are around 80 bucks a pair.

thechknhwk · « **Reply #15 on:** December 07, 2015, 11:23:50 AM »

Ok next question, where do you measure for your blank size inside the machine? I have a picture below, but since I switched to measuring further back behind the first side cutter. Neither one seems to be very effective. Its like I need to measure in one of the two places and then add at least a quarter inch. Is there some accurate intelligent way to do it?

Brad_S. · « **Reply #16 on:** December 09, 2015, 08:30:35 PM »

I know what width size I want my finished product (plus the tongue width if it is T&G). I then just add 1/2" to 3/4" tops to that width to figure what size blank to use. When setting up, I roughly measure from the deepest part of the profile knives on each head to get a rough setup then send a couple short trial blanks through and adjust the second side cutter to get the finished width I am looking for.
I also pre-plane the blanks to a uniform thickness as well.

jdtuttle · « **Reply #17 on:** December 28, 2015, 02:42:56 PM »

What to charge for making flooring, starting with random width rough sawn. Here are the steps I do.
1. Skip plane everything to the same thickness
2. Straight line one side
3. Gang saw to width
4. Run through Logosol PH260 to finished product.
I've been charging .60 per lineal foot. Is that to low, too much or just right.
What are you guys charging?
Jim

thechknhwk · « **Reply #18 on:** December 29, 2015, 12:56:56 AM »

First, .15/bf to plane one side, then .09/lf to straight line one side, another .09/lf to rip to size, then .35/bf to run it through the logosol. I don't know what that adds up to in your circumstances, and I haven't done a ton but that's what I charge. If i have to plane the other side, due to excessive thickness I'd charge another .15/bf. Hope that helps.

We just ran 140 12' ash 1x8s today into ship lap siding. Got a few stuck but it ran pretty well.

scsmith42 · « **Reply #19 on:** January 02, 2016, 09:58:53 AM »

One thing that I've discovered is that the top feed rollers slip much less if they are biting into rough sawn wood as opposed to planed wood.

Normally I like to take off equal amounts per side when skip planing, but when I presize a blank for the moulder I'll try to leave one face rough sawn. Then, in the moulder I'll set it up so that it removes more material from the rough sawn side so that between the pre-sizing and the moulding, my boards have about the same amount removed from each side.

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Author Topic: Logosol PH260 Owner/Operators thread (Read 4843 times)

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