Author Topic: Head Raising Mechanisms - descriptions (Read 5315 times)

D._Frederick · « **Reply #20 on:** October 01, 2004, 10:33:42 AM »

Slow-,

I would not rely on a set screw to provide the holding power to transmit the torgue required to raise or lower your saw head. At the minimum, you should drill a seat in the shaft for the head of the set-screw to fit in, the problem with this is that the set screw will work loose. If you have a milling machine, you could cut key-ways. On my mill, the sprockets were pinned to the shaft with roll-pins, never had a problem.

Bruce_A · « **Reply #21 on:** October 01, 2004, 06:06:15 PM »

Has anybody thought of using cab jack hydraulics like they use on semi trucks? Jack it up and release to lower.

slowzuki · « **Reply #22 on:** October 01, 2004, 06:15:34 PM »

Re the set screws, no I don't like em. I think the garage door spring is getting replaced by acme rods.

Cab jack? Tell me more!

Is it a multistage telescoping cylinder?
Ken

Gilman · « **Reply #23 on:** October 01, 2004, 09:51:45 PM »

Ken,
Since you have AC available, why not look into just duplicating the WM version? Reducers are relatively cheap, same for the motors. The best part is that method is already proven.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=20&lastrec=60&sort=1&keyword=PGRC&catname=powerTrans&UID=2004100122413279

If you need some help figuring out how to size your reducer, let me know and we'll work it out. Else iff please keep us informed on what you decide to go with.

Bruce_A · « **Reply #24 on:** October 01, 2004, 10:53:06 PM »

Just a small diameter hydraulic cylinder used as a jack to push a cab forward and up. Similar to a two piece hydraulic jack with the pump being seperate from the jack. About 18 to 20 inches of throw.

slowzuki · « **Reply #25 on:** October 02, 2004, 06:51:26 AM »

On the WM, the weight can be carried by one of these units. My carriage would need two that are kept in sync.

Quote

Ken,
Since you have AC available, why not look into just duplicating the WM version? Reducers are relatively cheap, same for the motors. The best part is that method is already proven.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=20&lastrec=60&sort=1&keyword=PGRC&catname=powerTrans&UID=2004100122413279

If you need some help figuring out how to size your reducer, let me know and we'll work it out. Else iff please keep us informed on what you decide to go with.

Percy · « **Reply #26 on:** October 02, 2004, 10:53:42 AM »

Just to confuse things more

I seen a fourpost mill that had a similar lift setup as my fork lift. The hydralic cylinder was mounted with a sprocket on the top and the lift chain went over it, point being, a 15 inch travel cylinder gave him 30 inches of lift. It was slick. Just checkout a hydralic forklift for ideas....

Larry · « **Reply #27 on:** October 02, 2004, 03:47:21 PM »

Picture of how Kasco set up their carriage. 4 post type arrangement. In 10 years I have never had to adjust anything on it but I am just a part time sawyer.

Danny_S · « **Reply #28 on:** October 03, 2004, 10:13:10 AM »

Slowzuki, do you have the cables directly hooked to the head of the mill like I had it or do they go to the head, through a pulley and back up to the top of the frame like a snatch block assembly on a winch.

This would slow down the head raising wich may make it more precise, and should cut down on the full load on the spring shouldnt it?? Or is my head still asleep and not thinking right.....

slowzuki · « **Reply #29 on:** October 03, 2004, 05:41:12 PM »

Danny, the wire is through the pulley on the head so I'm at 2x power already

Percy, I've got the drawings at home of what you speak of on the sketches I had for a cantalever mill but it won't package into the mill I built

GF · « **Reply #30 on:** October 04, 2004, 07:07:02 AM »

Does anyone have photos from a woodmizer lift system, I have never seen one before and was just curious as to how theres look?

Danny_S · « **Reply #31 on:** October 04, 2004, 02:44:27 PM »

Probably get an overhead crane at St. Anne p + p cheap......

slowzuki · « **Reply #32 on:** October 06, 2004, 06:04:23 AM »

I don't have a photo but picture double roller chain hanging from top of cariage. The chain goes around an idler, 90 deg wrap, back to the drive sprocket, does a 180 deg wrap on the drive back to another idler with 90 deg wrap then out the bottom inline with the top piece of chain. A worm gear reduction unit drives it.

Ken

Quote

Does anyone have photos from a woodmizer lift system, I have never seen one before and was just curious as to how theres look?

GF · « **Reply #33 on:** October 06, 2004, 10:11:54 AM »

Thats what I had pictured, wonder if a chain has ever broke? Maybe so in the past thats why they use double.

slowzuki · « **Reply #34 on:** October 06, 2004, 01:04:09 PM »

There have been descriptions of fitting the double chain to the older single chain models when adding a debarker. I read of a shaft on the worm gear reducer breaking off on a FF member.

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