Welding Projects

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 09:49:35 PM

Quote from: Gumneck on December 13, 2015, 08:49:08 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
How does it compare, welding-wise, to 7018? I still have difficulty starting an arc every once in a while, especially if the flux splits off the end a little.

If you have trouble starting an arc with 7018, you might try just before you go to weld scratching your electrode tip along the concrete just a short bit to get it bright and shiny. Seems to work for me.

I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\

4x4American · December 13, 2015, 09:53:34 PM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 09:49:35 PM

I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\

Do you tap to start or drag to start? When you break off flux like that, just long arc it (on an unimportant piece of steel) until you get down to normal flux. Also, try some AC rod. It's specifically meant for AC welding and you might have better luck at it.

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 10:05:43 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 09:53:34 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 09:49:35 PM

I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\

Do you tap to start or drag to start? When you break off flux like that, just long arc it (on an unimportant piece of steel) until you get down to normal flux. Also, try some AC rod. It's specifically meant for AC welding and you might have better luck at it.

I drag start. Sometimes I tap to pop the glass off the tip. I do do a long arc it to clean it up, when I can get it to go without sticking :

It is AC rod (so it says). I just find high amps works the best for me. My daughter took a welding class at the local JC. She says I should get a new welder that has the high-amp start option... I'm too cheap for that :D

4x4American · December 13, 2015, 10:07:11 PM

Have you cleaned up all of the connections?

Kbeitz · December 13, 2015, 10:11:47 PM

I just gotta show you two welders in my collecion...
The one with the glass rectifiers bulbs might be the oldest welder in USA.

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 10:18:34 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 10:07:11 PM
Have you cleaned up all of the connections?

You mean like my ground clamp to the steel and electrode clamp? I don't wire-brush them clean but I make sure the clamp is on clean metal and wiggle it to make sure it has good contact. I have caught myself trying to strike an arc when I didn't put the ground clamp on

4x4American · December 13, 2015, 10:28:36 PM

I meant the connections inside the welder and everywhere a connection is made on on the leads. Can never hurt to make sure they're clean and tight.

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 10:43:05 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 10:28:36 PM
I meant the connections inside the welder and everywhere a connection is made on on the leads. Can never hurt to make sure they're clean and tight.

I suppose its worth a look. Haven't opened it in the 28 years I've owned it. Thanks for the idea.

gfadvm · December 13, 2015, 10:53:30 PM

Unless you are welding new/bright/clean metal, 6011 rod will solve most of your issues. I have burned a LOT of rod with my old Lincoln crackerbox and find 6011 to work in all my applications. 7018 has always been problematic for me in my portable gasoline welder and my crackerbox (tombstone) welders.

Ljohnsaw · December 13, 2015, 11:09:17 PM

No doubt, 6011/6013 will weld anything. BUT, since I've tried 7018, it is soooo much cleaner! A LOT less cleanup time.

redprospector · December 14, 2015, 12:02:17 AM

It seems that since I learned to "kinda" weld in high school...my entire life has been a "welding project". :D
Most of my welding is portable, so true mig is out, unless I use flux core.
My go to welder is a Miller Bobcat 250.

This is an 18" extension I bubble gummed together to get the swing cylinders on my log loader above the gooseneck on my trailer.

This is a hydraulic pump mount I slapped together on the same project.

And then there's my little mill. It was a pretty good welding project/plumbing experiment. :D

4x4American · December 14, 2015, 07:55:37 AM

Plumbing experiment lol lol lol

looks good rp.

If I'm stick welding it's almost always 7018. You can weld in any position with it with proper form, and it's dang strong. I don't really like 6011

dustyhat · December 14, 2015, 08:25:38 AM

You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.

Kbeitz · December 14, 2015, 08:34:18 AM

Quote from: dustyhat on December 14, 2015, 08:25:38 AM
You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.

What would you say is one of the best brand welders for arc welding ?

dustyhat · December 14, 2015, 08:57:51 AM

Welders or welding rods, i like esab, hobart and lincoln rods, just not ac 7018 lincoln. a brand i ran across was wasington alloy, i thought was a lesser brand rod my local machine shop carryed . found out was a really great rod. welders , there so many great brands . i do own a few lincolns and a few hobarts. but im a gear head like you guys and love them all.

Dave Shepard · December 14, 2015, 09:37:21 AM

I usually use rod from TSC, I think it's branded as Hobart. I run 7018 for everything now. I advocate running what you've got, but the best performance is going to come from a DC welder. Around here, you can get older DC welders cheap. I got my Idealarc for $25 at an auction. Lincoln is my favorite, but any old, heavy welder should be fine.

Larry · December 14, 2015, 10:33:15 AM

One of my better welding projects was this cart. It has large casters and rolls quite easy. Rewired the welders to both work off one extension cord. Long enough I can wheel it right out in the drive. Also has a power strip for right angle grinders.

I think I bought the Lincoln about 1980. The fan started squeaking a few years ago and I had to take the machine apart to give it a little lube. The only problem in 35 years and it has had a lot of use.

I added the Hobart mig about 6 years ago and to date it also has been perfect. Its a 187 and wished it was one size bigger, but it does the job. I use a large argon tank with it.

4x4American · December 14, 2015, 06:10:04 PM

If I were to buy an arc welder it'd be a DC one, but I got this one given to me for helping a feller out with his sawmill. Can't complain its better than my Hobart 140. I think that the Hobart 7018ac rod welds better than the Lincoln, but the smell is awful. It smells like burning ketchup. If I were to guess, I'd say they made it like that on purpose to help folks learn to not breathe it in. Cause usually I like the smell and I suck it right in. Sometimes I bottle it up and suck it out through a straw when I'm relaxing. The excalibur rod from Lincoln isn't bad, but I think it's a DC rod

4x4American · December 14, 2015, 06:11:03 PM

Larry that cart is great I gotta make something cause rolling them around on skateboards is getting old.

Kbeitz · December 14, 2015, 06:43:46 PM

I have and use a DC converter on my welder. Sure does make a difference.
Smoother and a quite weld.

SineWave · December 14, 2015, 09:11:32 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on December 13, 2015, 01:20:12 AM
Quote from: valley ranch on December 13, 2015, 12:48:01 AM
That's the same stick welder I have, got it from Sears years ago!

Thats back when they made them good with real copper wire inside.
Not like the cheap alum wound junk sold today.

I was talking to a tech at Miller (I think it was Jeff Johnson) a few years back about my (2010) Syncrowave 250 and just out of curiosity I asked him whether it had a copper or aluminum meatball and he said aluminum was actually (surprisingly) superior to copper for some things (not sure whether he meant the primary or secondary) ... and not just cost. This was definitely surprising to me, and for the life of me I can't remember why he said it was better...

Whatever it is, it's still 500 pounds of some kind of metal! (I've also got a Miller 330A/BP stick/TIG power source from 1978 and I know that's all copper wound ... 800 pounds worth ... but I'm not sure it welds any better than the Sync, although it does get a bit hotter for heavy aluminum ... 465A of AC baby! 8) )

GDinMaine · December 14, 2015, 09:13:24 PM

I use a little Hobart buzz box. It really has served me well. I use Hobart-branded rods as well. If I can't clean off the metal surface and root passes I burn 6011. For clean metal surfaces 7018. It gives very nice, clean results and it supposed to be strong too.

scsmith42 · December 14, 2015, 09:38:48 PM

Quote from: Kbeitz on December 14, 2015, 08:34:18 AM
Quote from: dustyhat on December 14, 2015, 08:25:38 AM
You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.
What would you say is one of the best brand welders for arc welding ?

I have found that the engine driven welders with three-phase welding generators have a superior arc as compared to smaller 240VAC buzz boxes. DC definitely welds better than AC for most steel (I prefer reverse polarity).

My Miller Trailblazer Pro diesel welder is hard to beat when it comes to arc welding.

Re 7018 versus 6013 versus 6011, yes 7018 welds easier in all positions but it is a relatively low penetrating rod. On most mild steel, if you want the strongest possible combination most pipefitters swear by a root pass with 6010 on DC RP followed by cap passes with 7018 as providing the best overall combination. IMO 6010 on DC produces a smoother weld than 6011 on AC.

scsmith42 · December 14, 2015, 09:39:53 PM

I just remembered that we have a retired welding instructor (Qweaver) right here on the FF! Now if anybody can make a knowledgeable recommendation, it's Quinton.

Hopefully he will chime in with his thoughts....

Rougespear · December 14, 2015, 09:54:57 PM

Up here in Canada I use 7014 and 7018 for 95% of my stuff... sometimes I'll use 6011 for a good root pass and tacking. I buy the Lincoln AC rod... runs great on my old 1980s Acklands AC Sizzler. I absolutely HATE BlueShield rod... I only like their LA S-6 solid MIG wire (but their gas-less wire is terrible too). A little while back I was teaching myself overhead: working on the ground actually above my head: the Blueshield 7018 was just terrible, so hard to start an arc... what a terrible experience! Switched over to 7014 Lincoln and all was good. Your mileage will vary.