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Author Topic: JD440B blood  (Read 3796 times)

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Offline timetocut

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JD440B blood
« on: April 08, 2016, 08:03:41 AM »
Hey folks,
First post and new member here. This threat is all about JD440 fluids. So as 303 is no longer made and HyGuard is way to expensive, I'm looking for someone to help with alternate oil suggestions. So far I have Napa 15w40 for engine and napa Universal ttactor oil for winch. Any thoughts?

Offline snowstorm

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #1 on: April 08, 2016, 08:14:49 AM »
t d h

Offline grassfed

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #2 on: April 08, 2016, 09:20:17 AM »
With the off brand Transmission/Hydraulic oils there are usually two kinds. The basic 303 style that is single grade and is ok between 32-100 F and the more expensive multi grade that is good for a wider temp range. It gets cold here so I buy the multi grade. Look at the specs for pour point that is low; -40F is good. 
Mike

Offline coxy

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2016, 04:17:57 PM »
I buy 303 all the time TSC has it 28 bucks a 5gal bucket and napa has it for 30

Offline Frickman

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2016, 08:42:32 PM »
I ran 440s for years and usually used whatever 303 the farm store had. Occasionally I would spring for the Deere brand, but not often. I ran a lot of Ford tractors too and sometimes some Ford hydraulic oil would find its way into the Deere equipment. If you follow oil back to it's source you would find a lot of it is made to the same standards and has the same additive packages. As long as it came from a reputable refinery it was ok to me. Foe motor oil I used Conklin synthetic and Shell Rotella, depending on how much it leaked and burnt. Antifreeze was always the standard green that's been used for years.

One thing to think about with your choice of oils is how available is it to purchase retail? I spent a lot of time working away from home and sometimes I ran out and had to buy some to get through the day or week.I really liked Rotella because I can walk into any Wal*Mart and buy it, as well as most auto parts stores. You don't want to use something you have to order ahead like the Conklin I used. It seemed I was always running low and had to wait for a new batch to come in. Now if you or your family is a Conklin dealer that is a little different.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

Offline RHP Logging

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2016, 10:24:28 PM »
Where do you live?
Buckin in the woods

Offline timetocut

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2016, 08:25:15 AM »
I'm in Ontario Canada just below Algonquin park. Winters are cold enough but not deadly like your norther states. I managed to get a data sheet emailed for Napa brand TDH. Pour point -42*C. Should work fine. However I did spring for a few pails of HyGuard for Hyd/Tranny just to be safe

Thanks for the info. Many many years of knowledge on this site. It's a privilege to have access

Offline timetocut

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2016, 08:38:22 AM »
On a side note, are the axle seals replaceable externally or does the axle need to come out?

Offline teakwood

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2016, 09:04:28 AM »
I buy 303 all the time TSC has it 28 bucks a 5gal bucket and napa has it for 30

Wow. Thats cheap. I pay 95$ for Deere Hy Guard. Everything is overpriced in Costa Rica due to monopol.

timetocut: the axle has to come out (at least on the 540)
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Offline grassfed

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2016, 10:23:11 AM »
The axle has to come out. You want to check the wheel bearings since you are taking it apart and a loose wheel bearing can help cause seal failure. Get a shop manual if you are going to do it yourself. It is a tricky procedure but if you are a good mechanic with the tools I think you could do it. If you have a Deere guy in your area you might consider having him do the work. It is also a good idea to check pinion bearing/play while you are in the area because I have seen them get loose on these machines.
Mike

Offline timetocut

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #10 on: April 11, 2016, 10:08:35 AM »
Called Napa and their esso brand trans/hydraulic is HyGuard without the Deere decal (so they say)
A little cheaper, every dollar counts. Hydraulic reservoir has RELLY milky fluid. Would methyl hydrate be beneficial to add before draining the old fluid? Will be replacing all fluids in this new to me machine this weekend. Hope the weather is nicer than this passed weekend!

Offline june

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #11 on: April 14, 2016, 08:42:22 PM »
i recently did the back axle bearing and seal it is easy to do .it is easier to do the front axle just jack the machine up after that remouve the tire on the side you are fixing and jack the other tire. you will be able to remove the cassing

Offline timetocut

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #12 on: April 25, 2016, 04:23:53 PM »
well the fluid changing was gong well until i experienced a starter problem. my trans hydraulic change was put on hold. anyways, one rebuilt starter and a battery later, i'm back in business to do the rest of the oils. HOWEVER, filling the fuel tank to the brim brought about another unexpected issue - my tank leaks! i lost the prime from the tank to the primer pump as well.

will installing a mid line 3/8in inside diameter outboard primer ball (pinch point) allow enough fuel to feed the motor at high RPM?

and whats the best way to deal with this leaky tank? thanks again gentlemen

Offline snowstorm

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #13 on: April 25, 2016, 05:34:12 PM »
the outboard primer has a check valve in it. should work but why do you need it? there is a hand pump on the transfer pump. to take the fuel tank out you need to remove the front half of the skidder from the rear

Offline Frickman

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #14 on: April 27, 2016, 04:06:47 PM »
I had issues with my first 440 years ago. I had it split in two for other reasons and found it was near impossible to remove the fuel tank even then. I ended up mounting a fuel tank on the canopy roof. I ran a rubber line down the limb riser to the transfer pump, and another return line back up to the tank. It worked good except I had to stand on the winch to refuel. It left my place that way. If anyone runs across an old 440 with a light green, square fuel tank on the roof let me know. I would like to see the old thing again.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

Offline petefrom bearswamp

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #15 on: April 27, 2016, 05:08:20 PM »
My Kubota 8540 calls for 15 plus gal of their super whatever stuff at 96 bucks a bucket for the tran/hydraulics.
 NAPA has an equivalent for 48.
Going to check TSC next.
LT40SHDD51
Kubota 8540 tractor, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 550 Sportsman ATV
1 Husky 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
241 acres of woodland

Offline grassfed

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #16 on: April 27, 2016, 05:18:32 PM »
Where is the fuel tank leak? If you filled it to the very brim it might just be leaking out between where the rubber fill hose clamps to the tank. My skidder will leak there if I fill it all the way to the top of the fill hose but as long as I stop about a quart below that it is fine.

 Another place they leak, and can lose prime while running, is the metal fuel pickup line that runs over the middle of the top of the tank. Leaves and crud collect there from the gap below the winch and hold water that causes the fuel line to rust. I bypassed that line and made a copper standpipe that I inserted in a hole that I drilled in the top of the tank; this has worked for 12+ years.

If you don't need to separate the skidder to do the center bearings and your tank is bad I would consider doing what Frickman did. If you do separate it cut out the front tank support angle that should help get the tank out I had to weld mine in as it was broken when I got the skidder; it is easy to do.
Mike

Offline timetocut

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #17 on: April 29, 2016, 06:29:39 PM »
Well the small leak stopped shortly after I posted the problem. It most likely was at the filler neck. Finally did the trans hydraulic fluid which went well. The one issue I did have was finding small brass and metal filings against the transmission pump tube screen (which may not ever have been cleaned). Is this as serious as it seems? Tranny and hydraulics work really well.

Offline coxy

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2016, 07:46:07 PM »
if it don't slip and it shifts fine don't worry about it      if its not broke don't fix it  :) :) :)

Offline RHP Logging

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Re: JD440B blood
« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2016, 09:41:54 PM »
That sounds like the pump is coming apart. I had my transfer case pump do that.  It plugged the lines up and was forcing fluid out of the seal into a bigger pump which fed the fluid into the hydraulic tank..  I didn't realize that it was blocked with filings until I wrecked another new pump if course.
Buckin in the woods


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