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Author Topic: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.  (Read 4802 times)

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Offline rbarshaw

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #20 on: November 01, 2004, 04:25:40 PM »
I also cut mostly pine and have found that entering the log from the small end (top) with the band blade, rather than the lagre or bottom, always gives me a smoother cut. I also seem to remember reading an explaination on here somewhere.
Been doing so much with so little for so long I can now do anything with nothing, except help from y'all!
By the way rbarshaw is short for Robert Barshaw.
My Second Mill Is Shopbuilt 64HP,37" wheels, still a work in progress.

Offline woodmills1

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #21 on: November 02, 2004, 05:36:40 AM »
Yes pine can be a real pain to cut without waves.  Very often the first and second pass will give waves as the saw passes through alternate wide and narrow sections even if it is sharp.  Hard dead knots will add to the problem, especially if they are located at the outer edges.

Dirt or mud on the outer surface where the blade enters is a major problem.  In a pinch I use the woodmizer small clamp as a scraper to take off the majority of mud.

Dirt on the end of the log on the side the blade enters has to be removed.  If you can't then trim a wafer off the log.

There are many good hints in the posts.

Sharp blade  wide set for pine
diesel and bar oil
slow feed esp on first passes and through knots
correct tension
clean or debark
rotate dirt to exit side
start on small end of log

I will add  use one blade to open up the log and change to fresh one after majority of bark is off

Now like the previous posts said go get some real knoty spruce logs and have lotsa fun.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Offline Swede

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #22 on: November 02, 2004, 08:36:05 AM »

When i ordered my new 0.035x1 3/8, 1T/ ", 10* Monkey blades I also wanted them a little bit longer.
There is 1 tooth left set, 1 right set an one tooth not set. This 3 teeth makes a group and I told them to make the blades with just whole groups.
I don´t know what it makes if the blade have lack of left set tooth.

Have just used one of the new blades yet but think this thin blades cut good in soft wood, have used some  0.038x1 1/4 earlier.

Had a mobile band sawmill, All hydraulics  for logs 30\"x19´, remote control. (sold it 2009-04-13)
Monkey Blades.Sold them too)
Jonsered 535/15\". Just cut firewood now.

Offline Tom

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #23 on: November 02, 2004, 02:33:27 PM »
The only reason to use "whole sets" is if you are setting your own blades. Having full sets makes sure you don't pass your starting point and set teeth the wrong way. It also lets you start anywhere in the blade.

Having the blade the right length so that the saw can properly tension it is the most important.

.035 blades are recommended by manufacturers for sawmills with less than 15 horsepower.  They don't requiree as many horses to drive them but they usually don't last long nor are able to withstand aggressive sawing when used in a larger saw.

Offline bull

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #24 on: November 04, 2004, 07:35:27 AM »
cleaning logs, get a good power washer, start with a garden hose... if its light mud.. if its gravel.... don't even take the log.
water power even 40 psi will clean most small rocks out of the bark, I also have a lat shovel w/ shapened blade  and an ads for chopping out small stuff.
My mill has a debaker but I still wash down if there is dirt.

Start at the wood lot, keep the logs out of the dirt from the start.

As for wavey cut slow down feed and power up. keep the blade cool, Lube it.... I cut 50-75 thousand feet of pine a year and have very little if any wavey wood.

Spruce is a pain in the a$$ and will be wavey because the blade will heat very quickly, kwwp the water flowwing...

Offline ladylake

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #25 on: November 06, 2004, 03:41:05 AM »
Rex   Sound like your blades might be getting gummed up if they are cutting waves that fast. Use lots of lube, I just use water and soap. As mentioned befor more set helps.   Steve
Timberking B20 15000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline FeltzE

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #26 on: November 06, 2004, 04:20:44 AM »
I use a short handled round point shovel for debarking, take a chain saw file and sharpen the edge and put a 8 or 10 serrations in the edge near the point.

I often struggle with pine that has been cut and down too long, salvaged pine that is hard as rock, the posts above are all on target, the things that work best for me are :

- a larger set, much larger than the books call for, leaving alot of sawdust loose in the cut,
- keep a sharp blade on the mill, change blades often!
- slow the feed rate, much below the advertised capacities. As noted earlier, knotty pine with large dry knots is MUCH more difficult than saw grade hardwoods where you can push the mill to dragging the engine still cutting straight.
- After the opening cut, roll the log to position the open face to present the open clean wood to the blade entry side. This requires rolling the log backwards on a WM or all the way around a 3/4 roll, Baker the blade comes in from the back so it's built to do that naturally. This will keep your blade sharper longer.


Offline arj

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Re: Milling Pine with waves like the ocean.
« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2004, 06:47:15 PM »
I use Woodmizer .045  9degree blades they work much better also work well on hickory

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