Beginner to start cutting firewood

[Jigzor]

Hello all,

I am closing on a house that is somewhat rural that comes with an outdoor wood boiler and 2 acres. It may be the thing I am most excited about being a home owner. I am also what some of my coworkers who are farmers refer to as "city boy". I've operated equipment before but never a chainsaw. I've talked with coworkers about saws, what to get, etc but am still looking for more info. I'm a decent size guy 6'3" 260lbs so the weight I am not very concerned(which could be me being naive). I was first looking at Stihl MS391 but after research have concluded it to essentially be junk with plenty of problems. Suggestions have been Husqvarna 455/460 Rancher and 372XP. I do not know what size wood I will be cutting just that it will be for the wood boiler. I am the type of person that has a healthy respect for power but I also feel the 372XP is more saw than I can handle right now and more saw than I probably need. I am open to all brands as I don't have an "alliance". Thanks for your help!

[farmguy]

Hey welcome. I have a 460 rancher with a 24 inch bar. Its a good firewood saw but if your cutting hardwood i would go to a skip chain. In between the 460 and 372 are lots of good options like the 562xp's or the 555. Or even the 550xp

[jdonovan]

I have a 372, and I think it is a bit big for a new saw user, and it is bigger than I use for firewood cutting. My primary saw for smaller (<14") wood, is a Sthil 025, a MS250 would be the current version. The 372 cuts faster, but it gets heavy fast. If you find yourself in bigger wood often, then a bigger saw might be useful. But I would definitely start with a smaller saw and then decide if you want, or need an upgrade. I used the 025 for 10 years of firewood cutting, and it wasn't until I started doing clearing of a lot that I found a need for a bigger saw.

You definitely should invest in some safety gear if you don't already have. Chainsaw chaps. If the saw makes contact with the chaps it pulls fibers from the chaps that quickly stops the chain, and greatly reduces injury. When cutting down trees I really like to have a helmet on, as all sorts of stuff comes out of trees when you start cutting.

[DelawhereJoe]

From what others have posted the echo 590 timberwolf is the best bang for the buck, 60cc around $400. Don't forget about the 465 rancher too, you could always go red and try a jonsered 2166 or the husky 365, both 70cc saws.

[DelawhereJoe]

Oh and its always a good thing to have 2 saws, in the event you get one bar pinched so badly you can't remove it you can use the other saw to free it, or at least 2 bars and chains. I had to go rescue a buddy of mine that had a mulberry tree pinch the bar of a rental saw.

[tranabo_bjoern]

For firewood cutting here in Sweden I run a Husqvarna 460 Rancher II with 20 and 24 inch bar, chisel or semi chisel chains. Its good for the most. Over here we have lots of soft and medium hard wood, some oaks.

For smaller jobs I have a Jonsered 2238 with 16 Inch bar. My point is, never run one saw alone since one is easily stuck and you need to cut out the other. Second the weight. When you carry all day long a saw the weight is a factor.

Jut added a Husky 395 for heavy jobs with 20 inch bar.

What manufacturer you should select depends on the service you can get. We have a Husky service point one mile away. If yours is a Stihl, ok. Go for a Stihl. Husqvarna, Jonsered (which is Husqvarna), Echo, Dolmar are in the same league. You will not regret selecting your saw also by this selector.

When you runs the saw in cold conditions, consider a saw with heated handles. On Husqvarna saws the carburator is then heated as well. In cold environment it is good to have a mesh filter (http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaw-Parts/Chainsaw-Air-Filters/OEM-Heavy-Duty-Air-Filters-for-Husqvarna-Chainsaws/Husqvarna-537-44-44-03-OEM-Air-Filter-Heavy-Duty-44-Mesh-for-394-395-XP-Chainsaws-537444403.axd) should be on your equpment pack.

I am running my Husky 61 with this filter in the cold (below 32 F) and the saw runs fine. The standard filter may clogg and the saw dies.

Just some ideas to have fun with your saws.

Best wishes from Sweden (feels like the Yupper in MI)

[ladylake]

From what others have posted the echo 590 timberwolf is the best bang for the buck, 60cc around $400. Don't forget about the 465 rancher too, you could always go red and try a jonsered 2166 or the husky 365, both 70cc saws.

By far the best bang for the buck for a saw the runs real good.  Steve

[CTYank]

For general felling/bucking/limbing, IMO once you're talking 60 cc and up as heavy artillery, you're talking 40 cc or thereabouts for your second saw. In most circumstances I've encountered, the smaller one will get the majority of the runtime, cutting up tops & limbs.
One prime candidate: Dolmar CS-421. Check the price- forget 250/251 with that kind of value.
Besides protective equipment, get some locals to boost your learning-curve and always keep wedges handy. Can't have too many wedges. For one thing, great insurance against getting saw stuck.
You'll have lots to learn, for a long time. Good idea not to over-reach.
Cable winches are good for avoiding incidents, as are polesaws. It's all about walking out after. Good luck!

[Jigzor]

I have a 372, and I think it is a bit big for a new saw user, and it is bigger than I use for firewood cutting. My primary saw for smaller (<14") wood, is a Sthil 025, a MS250 would be the current version. The 372 cuts faster, but it gets heavy fast. If you find yourself in bigger wood often, then a bigger saw might be useful. But I would definitely start with a smaller saw and then decide if you want, or need an upgrade. I used the 025 for 10 years of firewood cutting, and it wasn't until I started doing clearing of a lot that I found a need for a bigger saw.

You definitely should invest in some safety gear if you don't already have. Chainsaw chaps. If the saw makes contact with the chaps it pulls fibers from the chaps that quickly stops the chain, and greatly reduces injury. When cutting down trees I really like to have a helmet on, as all sorts of stuff comes out of trees when you start cutting.

Yes, I definitely plan on buying a set of chaps. I see Husqvarna has some for various prices. Is one set necessarily better than another?

[thecfarm]

Jigzor,welcome to the forum.
Not up on the new saws. But go to a dealer and talk to them. See if you like them. You will need a place to buy chains from and when you have problems or questions with the saw,they should be there to help you. Safety gear is real important. Dealer support is real important too.
What kind of OWB,outdoor wood boiler comes with the house you are buying? And congrats on the new house.
Lots to cutting down trees. Not just getting them on the ground,but choosing which ones to cut and which ones to leave. How will you get the wood out of the woods?
That 372 is on the big side. I have one,but I use to use all day long too. I have a 52cc saw,but that is kinda small,but I use it more than my 372 now. It's much lighter and easier on my body.It's a great limbing saw and cutting the small stuff. Like about a foot through.How big across are your trees?
Good luck to all that is ahead of you.

[Jigzor]

Jigzor,welcome to the forum.
Not up on the new saws. But go to a dealer and talk to them. See if you like them. You will need a place to buy chains from and when you have problems or questions with the saw,they should be there to help you. Safety gear is real important.
What kind of OWB,outdoor wood boiler comes with the house you are buying? And congrats on the new house.
Lots to cutting down trees. Not just getting them on the ground,but choosing which ones to cut and which ones to leave. How will you get the wood out of the woods?
That 372 is on the big side. I have one,but I use to use all day long too. I have a 52cc saw,but that is kinda small,but I use it more than my 372 now. It's much lighter and easier on my body.It's a great limbing saw and cutting the small stuff. Like about a foot through.How big across are your trees?
Good luck to all that is ahead of you.

Thank you! It's a Central Boiler. Fortunately, we have a friend that has free wood down and just needs to be cut up. I don't know what kind or size of it. It's better than having to pay for a truck to deliver it. I'd like to plant a few more trees to decrease visibility from the other property near by.

[jdonovan]

I don't see much of a difference in performance between chap brands. Get a pair that fits you well.

When you are in the store checking out saws, find one you think you like, and if the store is quiet enough see if they will let you hold on to it for 10min. Most saws feel fine when you pick them up, but for some reason get a lot heavier after a few minutes. Pretend to cut some wood laying on the ground. Can you do it from standing, or are you bent way over?

A few people have mentioned local dealer support. Its just a matter of time before a saw needs some shop time. Things wear out, murphy happens etc... Some of the lower end homeowner are very expensive to repair because they were not designed for lots of use,
and because of their design can't have some small part replaced, you have to replace large assemblies.

Let us know where you are located. We have FF members all over the place, and I'm sure someone would trade some free labor to let you learn to run a saw.  :D

[opticsguy]

OUCH!!!  I just bought a Stihl MS391, why is it junk?  Very pleased with mine but too heavy for a firewood saw, at least for me, a 90 pounds smaller than you. I use it for cut down big trees and with a rip chain for ripping. I use a lighter saw for most of me cutting. Two chainsaws is highly recommended!!

[kenskip1]

I'm new, what part of the Arctic Circle are you living in?What type of free wood do you have?Central Boiler was very popular when I lived in Upstate NY.Your location is  not listed.I wood not take Stihl out of the picture. The 441 wood suit you very well, Ken

[celliott]

An MS391 is not junk, it's simply a different class of saw. Yes, it's cheaper made, that's why it costs less than an MS362, or why a husky 455 costs less than a 562xp. Different design, materials, etc.
The homeowner\rancher type saws certainly will cut alot of wood, nothing wrong with them.
For more money, you get a more rugged construction, better power and less weight.

I would suggest a Husqvarna 555 or Jonsered 2258 personally.
Definitely get some good safety gear, steel toe boots, chaps, helmet at the minimum. And WEAR them!
Invest in a good filing system (there are many choices) and learn to use it well. I like the Husqvarna roller guide with combo depth gauge. A sharp chain trumps power, pro saw, skip chain, ported saw, whatever. A dull chain is hard on you, the saw, and just plain sucks.

[DelawhereJoe]

Everything is going to come down to dealer support for whatever brand you choose.  I'd also say get the best saw you can afford and take into account a few chains, safety gear, sharpening tools, log handling hooks to move logs so you can cut them and not but your bar into the ground. You can easily dump way more money into everything then you wanted or had originally planned on.

[Jigzor]

OUCH!!!  I just bought a Stihl MS391, why is it junk?  Very pleased with mine but too heavy for a firewood saw, at least for me, a 90 pounds smaller than you. I use it for cut down big trees and with a rip chain for ripping. I use a lighter saw for most of me cutting. Two chainsaws is highly recommended!!

Didn't mean to dismiss the saw or cause rift. I've seen some good reviews on the saw but I see more reviews with negative feedback, including on Stihl's site.

As for dealer, I am fortunate. I have several Stihl dealers local along with Husqvarna local and more near my work.

I'm located in north eastern Pennsylvania.

[Czech_Made]

Welcome, Jigzor.

I have close to 4 acres, but only firewood I cut is for outdoors, no place to burn wood indoors.

I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

[gspren]

   Welcome to a great forum, I also found it researching chainsaws although I've been cutting firewood for near 50 years (that don't seem possible for a young guy like me). If possible try to actually run some of each brand you're considering, my current favorite all around saw is a Stihl 261 but I have an old Stihl 044 for the big stuff. You may find that a Stihl feels better in your hands than a Husky or the other way around, substitute the Dolmar and Echo names in there in any order, if it don't feel "right" don't let a good deal sway you. JMHO, good luck and be safe.

[jdonovan]

the 261 is a GREAT saw. If the budget is there, its hard to beat.  4hp 11lbs. If that saw won't do it, then you really need to step up 2 saws to the 461, which is 6hp, and 14.6lbs, add a chain and bar, and that's a 16+lb pounder, and a HEAVY saw at the end of the day, and I don't know too many who would consider that a 'firewood' saw.

[Fokke]

Don't get too hung up on reviews. You can't believe everything you read on the Internet.

What I suggest you do is become friend with a professional logger and get him to show you the trade and try his saws. Then you see what to do. And learn hand sharpening.

[John Mc]

I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

I did the same thing to my cousin's 460. He tends to beat the heck out of it and run it well past the point where the chain is dull. So every time I visit I do some basic maintenance - usually deburr & square up the bar, sharpen chains, check the mixture, etc. This last time I removed his old clutch drum with the worn out spur sprocket and replaced it with the rim sprocket.

[DelawhereJoe]

A good friend of mine has a 455 rancher and loves it, but he only cuts 1/2 - 1 cord per year. It cuts well with a sharp chain, he never took the time to learn to sharpen a chain and I don't think he wants to learn, so when it starts pulling dust he buys a new chain and tosses the old one.

[John Mc]

A good friend of mine has a 455 rancher and loves it, but he only cuts 1/2 - 1 cord per year. It cuts well with a sharp chain, he never took the time to learn to sharpen a chain and I don't think he wants to learn, so when it starts pulling dust he buys a new chain and tosses the old one.

I don't suppose you have a saw that takes the same size chain he uses?

[khntr85]

Well first off you will be cutting quite a bit of wood, so a crash course in safety as these guys have said is very true... I have a OWB and love it, but I like cutting wood too lol.... As far as saws go MANY would fit the bill.... If you just want to get a saw with a 18-20" bar get a ms250 or ms290 or any other brand equivalent.... Yes a lot of people here will say it's not a pro saw its junk....well not true, they have kept people warm for years.... The ms250 with a 18" bar was my only saw for a few years some time ago, I can't tell you how many times I had that 18" bar buried in some of Indianas hardest woods... Yes I have a ms362 and ms461 now but these "clamshell" saws will work for you for now....

   Also who knows what the future holds you may get sick of cutting wood and loading your OWB when it is minus 10* and blowing hard outside!!!

[jdonovan]

Yes a lot of people here will say it's not a pro saw its junk....

its not that they are junk, its just when you take it in for repair, and the bill is 3/4 the value of a new saw, a lot of new saw owners get a shock. Then they discover for 30-50% more they could have had a more repairable saw, and there is some buyers remorse.

All I think we are saying with regard to home/ranch/pro saws is the OP should know there is a difference in designed duty cycle, and repair/maintenance costs, and with that knowledge in hand, he can make a more fully informed decision as to which saw best fits his budget, and anticipated needs.

[Czech_Made]

I got Husqvarna Rancher few years ago and I am quite happy with it.

Edit:  But I improved it somewhat, changed the drive to sprocket rim system, I like it better than the original Rancher solution.

I did the same thing to my cousin's 460. He tends to beat the heck out of it and run it well past the point where the chain is dull. So every time I visit I do some basic maintenance - usually deburr & square up the bar, sharpen chains, check the mixture, etc. This last time I removed his old clutch drum with the worn out spur sprocket and replaced it with the rim sprocket.

I have two narrow kerf chains and a bar left from a Solo that died on me  - used it for milling, stupid me - and the sprocket system lets me alternate between different chains as needed.

BTW narrow kerf chain makes the saw cut really well.

[Ada Shaker]

Another option is to buy a good used saw in the 50cc to 60cc range.  It'll give you an insight to how much power you need or would like.  There are a number of advantages to this. You'll get an insight  into the saws weight, power, etc over a short periode of time. Theres more to chainsawing than just picking one up and saying, she'll be right, I can lift it. It'll get you into the game so that you know what your in for, and learn what you need to learn.
You can always flog it off latter one for probably around the same price that you paid for it, or two, you may wish to hold onto it as a backup saw. Nothing worse than going out for firewood and finding your primary saw wont start, or worse, I'll let your mind ponder on that one.  At least with a backup, it makes that hrs drive more bearable, knowing that at least you'll come home with a load of wood. Don't forget to pick up some plastic wedges for when your bar gets pinched, so you can free it up. If your young, you'll probably get many years out of a saw so it pays to get a good one early on, if your buying new. Saws a pretty cheap stateside, unlike here where we pay a gazillon dollars for one.

[woodsdog2015]

So I'm a newbie firewood cutter too having gone through my first season (last winter) burning wood.  I went through about 15-17 face cord and never turned on our thermostat for our electric forced air furnace once thanks to wood burning. I have four saws, I started out with an MS251 WoodBoss which I received as a Christmas present the year before.  Prior to that I just had a little (but hell of a great saw) Echo CS-300 which I still own and use for limbing and small jobs and for clearing treestands for hunting. Anyway, that MS251 did most of my wood then after really cutting on a large diameter maple I realized I needed something bigger.  I bought a MS362CM and both saws are truly a pleasure to operate.  I went with the great advice of Holmen Tree on this forum for the new Stihl 2n1 sharpeners and I also upgraded the chains from the green anti kickback to the yellow stuff and have noticed a considerable difference in cutting speed.  The 2n1 files are very good for me so far in the woods for resharpening.  I'll see how my long term work goes with them.  I don't think you can go wrong with Stihl plus I have a great dealer.  I think my next purchase in a couple of more years will be an upgrade of the MS251 WoodBoss to the MS241 and with those two saws I have been able to keep myself burning wood thusly.  I'm just a simple firewood cutter and these saws have served me well so far.

[woodsdog2015]

Oh yea and wouldn't know after I bought the MS362 I was driving by a yardsale and a Homelite 8800 was sitting out there calling to me.  I cleaned it all up and put a new bar and chains on it but its so heavy I don't use it much. 

[Jigzor]

I stopped at a local dealer on my way home from work. I ended up purchasing a Husqvarna 455 Rancher for $375. Came with 20" bar which is nice because a coworker can give me chains. Thanks for all of your help, I appreciate it.

[DelawhereJoe]

Safe cutting to you, just remember sharp chains cut better and faster with less fatigue on you.

[tranabo_bjoern]

I stopped at a local dealer on my way home from work. I ended up purchasing a Husqvarna 455 Rancher for $375. Came with 20" bar which is nice because a coworker can give me chains. Thanks for all of your help, I appreciate it.

Congrats to the new saw & happy cutting  . Fell vibrations from the bar -> time to sharpen. Since you get chains from your coworker. Compare the data on the bar by the head (can be inside depending if the logo on the bar is upside down). Both the same, swap chains..... Otherwise, carry your on.

[khntr85]

Oh hey just to add one important thing.... For years I did not wear any protective chaps...thank GOD I have never gotten hurt in the woods as I always cut alone....I have seen lots of pics from truly seasoned pros that have been cut by saws, and it can literally make you bleed out before you get to your truck..... I now have a 1-year old daughter to provide for, so I *DanG sure got to stay safe... It may be hot or inconvienant but I wear the chaps, and suggest you do too.... I got a pair of nice chaps, safety glasses, and protective face shield with hard hat and ear protectors for like $50 to my front door.... It's money well spent!!!!!

[motohed]

Having run saws for better than fourty plus years , I would opt for  Husqvarna 562 xp in 16" wood or less and a Stihl ms460 or 461 for anything above 16" wood ! I would also consider a Huqvarna 550xp or ms 261 too round out the package

[DelawhereJoe]

It kinda sounds like you don't give the saws enough credit, but I suppose if time is money then the less time it takes to make a cut the better.

[WoodBurner19]

 Hey guys. This is my 2nd saw for about 8 years now. It's been flawless! I only use it to buck up firewood. Have an 18" bar on it.  I'm also comparing the MS 391 to the MS 362 C-M pro saw. Still doing research.



 

[btulloh]

MS 362 is worth the extra money.  Better balance, more maintainable.  Just works better.  They are similar specs except the 362 is the pro version.  Lighter weight, more power.  Feels better.  I had a chance to use a 391 for a couple months.  Not even close to the 362 for my taste.

I don't want to offend anybody.  The farm and ranch saws are ok.  The pro saws are just better.  If you save a little money buying the farm and ranch saws, you'll spend it later on maintenance. 

[WoodBurner19]

MS 362 is worth the extra money.  Better balance, more maintainable.  Just works better.  They are similar specs except the 362 is the pro version.  Lighter weight, more power.  Feels better.  I had a chance to use a 391 for a couple months.  Not even close to the 362 for my taste.

I don't want to offend anybody.  The farm and ranch saws are ok.  The pro saws are just better.  If you save a little money buying the farm and ranch saws, you'll spend it later on maintenance.

And you believe it's a worthy step up? I keep reading comments about the pros n cons of the 20" & 24" bars, any experience from you? Thank you!!

[CTYank]

Safe cutting to you, just remember sharp chains cut better and faster with less fatigue on you.

Sharp chain is also safer, in that the cutters go through the wood with less force, which equates to reaction force either pulling or pushing on the saw.

The main thing is to touch up the chain every couple of fillups, rather than waiting until it's dull. IOW, keep it sharp. You'll like the results. BTW, I keep a Granberg clamp-on file guide in my saw-stuff bag.

I ran a 455r for 3 years without a problem, then sold it to a bud when I got a 61 cc Dolmar. He's run it now for a couple years as his "heavy artillery" without drama. Much better access to stuff than 250/290/390 series should attention ever be required, IMO. Good saw to learn on. Good Luck.

[btulloh]

And you believe it's a worthy step up? I keep reading comments about the pros n cons of the 20" & 24" bars, any experience from you? Thank you!!

(I think we're hijacking this thread - sorry - maybe this should be a new thread . . . )

I use the 24" bar mostly and it runs just fine.  I like to use the shortest bar that will do the job though.  Less to sharpen, etc. Search some recent posts - there was a long discussion about this a while back.

[WoodBurner19]

Thank guys! I'm going to go with the MS 362 C-M. I'll post on a new thread when I get it.