Tractor / car hauler ramps.

[Jeff]

Do you guys think these ramps I made are substantial enough for loading an 8n tractor? 2 by 12s screwed together with around 50 2.5" screws on each. Light channel attached to attach ramp to slot in back of trailer. 5' long.


  

 

[red]

I have used car ramps under wooden ramps , even bricks or cement blocking

[sprucebunny]

What does the tractor weigh ? Around 2500 ?

I think the ramps will be ok with a cement block placed where it fits or closer to the middle of the ramp if possible. Adding a 2x4 to each side of the ramps would be good insurance.
Are you sure the trailer boards are going to take the weight ???
I sometimes put ¾" pieces of plywood under where my wheels will be on my trailer that looks like that.

[Ox]

If the tires aren't loaded, you'd probly get away with it.  Putting something under the middle of the ramp like the others said is always a good idea.  Just rocks if nothing else.  Got plenty of field rock here if ya need some.  But ya gotta take em all!

[Jeff]

Hauled the heavier of the two tractors home on the trailer with no issues.  The one I want to haul is the lighter one. Just air in the tires, but with the flail mower attached.

[Kbeitz]

Watch this and ask me again....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SSZn43rf_9k

[North River Energy]

For a one-shot haul, maybe. For continuous use, no.

[Jeff]

That video in no way applies. 4-6 inches are supported on the trailer, and that much more on the ground. That leaves a 4' span of 3inches thick of southern yellow pine.  The tractors total weight is 2400- 2500 and at no time will all 4 wheels be unsupported on the ramp.

[21incher]

They should hold for a light tractor like that. You may want to back the trailer up to a high spot so there is not that big a drop on the first test. Blocks under the back of the trailer help keep the hitch from poping off with ramps that have no front support. 

[Jeff]

A block under the rear of the trailer frame is planned.

[chevytaHOE5674]

For years I loaded a 12k lbs dozer onto my trailer with ramps that were 2x12 LVL about 4.5' long. Never even flexed an inch.

Your laminated 2x12's should have no trouble with that kind of load.

[Corley5]

They'll work fine.  They'll never be supporting the tractor's whole weight    I'd be more concerned about slipping on them 

[Jeff]

I have some shingles in the little barn that I was thinking about nailing on to the tops.

[Bill Gaiche]

They will work just fine, even with an attachment hooked up. Watch that pickup tail end rise as you drive on. Mine comes up pretty far loading my Kioti with the hoe on the back. I used a single treated pine 2x12 x 6' long and they held. Now I have sawn 2x12 x 6' post oak. bg

[coalsmok]

I wouldn't hesitate, especially with the shingles on them for traction. The deck isn't as heavy as those ramps.

[Skip]

That video scared me !

[mburrow]

I think they will fine.
but if you are concerned you could also block up half way up on the ramps

[Ox]

I'll bet a dollar it'll work as is.  If not, it's not like you have far to fall.  Then you know you have to do something different!  But seriously, you'll be fine. 

[Magicman]

You will be fine.  Load it up.   

[Jeff]

I tested my ramps today and had Tammy record is (she is videoing from crutches, so a bit of movement) so I could see the issues if any. Main issue I saw was I really really need to have my wheels chocked from now on. I think the herky-jerky stuff was coming from the truck and trailer moving when I would try to stop moving. I didn't detect anything in the ramps that would make me think they were not strong enough. All in all, it was SCARY! :D   Happy to hear any observations on how to make the process safer or easier. I know. Loose some more weight! ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Iw3v0KXgOc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kdCUm_1QKY

[Magicman]

I am still chuckling after watching your "unloading".   :D

[Magicman]

OK, I watched them again and agree that wheel chocks will help to prevent the trailer movement, but I chuckled again.   ;D

[steamsawyer]

Good job Jeff.  Be carful about stopping in the middle, you don't want to pop the clutch and kick the ramps out.. It works best to use low gear and not slip the clutch, let it out all the way and let the gears do the work. Same thing going down, if you pop the clutch rolling down and it rears up the front wheels might miss the ramp when they come down.

Alan

[thecfarm]

Could you make a lip on the end of the trailer and put your ramps in there? This would lower the up part 3 inches.
I use to haul my tractor from my Father's house to here 3-4 times a week. My ramps was level with the trailer. Your trailer looks like the same height as the one I had. My ramps was 1½ or 2 inch square tubing,maybe 5 feet long,with something like the metal that is used for guarding pulleys and belts,diamond holes are cut into it,that covered the tubing.
I have no idea if you could get your hands on that guarding and bolt that to your ramps. That would never wear out.
I bet Jeff was in low gear. I am not impressed with the 8n gears. I grew up around a NAA 1954. That thing in first gear with a little bit on the thottle would of crawled up those ramps nice and slow and back down them nice and slow.
My brother had one of those 8n and almost backed over me when I was hooking a log up for me and I needed him to back up 3 inches and he let off that clutch and backed up 2 feet before he stopped.    Those needed that Sheman shift.

[21incher]

A little weight on the front of the tractor may help.  You set record time with the unloading. Could cut a 45 angle on the top of the ramps to get rid of the hump.