Bandsaw Sawmill Build Questions

[William1961]

Hello Everyone.
I am a newbee to your forum and realized I should join this group when I read all the info here.
Inspired me to proceed with my build.
I have accumulated 19" band wheel sheaves, 1 1/2" pillow block bearings, #40 chain, steel (2" sq tube) and most of what I need to start building the carriage.
I have attached a picture of what I call the Green Sawmill.
It is exactly what I would like to build but I cannot find any info on it.
I am looking for the dimensions of this sawmill.
Also would like to know the width of the carriage in order to cut atleast a 32" log.
I see lots of builds here but not too much on dimensions.
Any help with the Green Sawmill would be appreciated.
Thanks.

[William1961]

no one?

[Magicman]

First, Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Give folks time because everyone does not necessarily log on each day. 

I am not a sawmill builder, but it might help to know whose "green sawmill" that is and where the picture came from?

[William1961]

Thanks for the reply.
The Green sawmill came up with a google search.
I have tried for some time to find the original poster but no luck.

I like the carriage design on the Hudson Farmboss 36 and also the Cook MP32.
I have tried to find an owner of one of these mills in my area but no luck.
I am looking for the dimensions of the carriage and placements of the cross supports on these mills.
The spacing of the rails or the width of the carriage wheels where they ride on the track.
The width of the track, length of the track and the spacing of the bunk supports.
I can figure out the rest.
If there is someone who can give me these dimensions I could make a drawing and indicate where the dimensions are that I am looking for.

I was given a new 5 bolt 2000 lb axle with 36" between the leaf mounts and 48" between the flange inside faces.
Would like to use this as is but I can cut and stretch if needed.

Thanks for your help.
Regards,
William.

[KamHillbilly]

I can try and take a few pictures of my home made mill and try and post for you

[grouch]

The spacing of the track is not what determines the maximum log you can saw.

If you want to saw through the pith of a 32 inch log, you'll need at least that much space between your bandsaw blade guides. You'll also need at least that much space between the head support posts. You'll also need half that distance from your blade to the lowest part of the guard in the center.

You pretty much have to work backwards from what you want as a maximum cut. You can saw a 32 inch diameter log with less than 32 inches between blade guides. It just means you can't make your first cut through the center. You can't saw a 32 inch log on a 4 post bandmill if there is less than 32 inches between posts -- the carriage must be able to pass by the log.

[Crusarius]

I just started my build, what I am learning is you can adjust the size of your cut 2 ways.

1 size of band wheels
2 length of blade

With those variables you can make it cut any diameter and any width. If you really want to get fancy you can add a third band wheel to give you a much deeper throat.

I bought the Linn lumber model 1900 kit for a 36" diameter capacity. I am looking at a 48" bed width.

Hopefully this info will help. I am not sure if I answered your question since I just had a blonde moment and spaced out...

[Magicman]

I would also think that you would want to build the sawmill around a "standard" length blade that was available from one of the many blade suppliers.  158" or whatever.

Yes, most blade manufacturers can/will supply whatever you order but I would expect the price to be higher.

[TKehl]

The problem with getting dimensions is most homebuilt machines are built with whatever is available.  Dimensions will be different depending on size, wall thickness, and structural shapes used.  The important factors are strong (enough), straight, and square.  The carriage needs to be wide enough it won't tip over with the head at full height and to fit the log through the throat.  Every one is different.  Going through some of the build threads on here could give you a lot of ideas and answer a lot of questions at the same time.

The rails should be long enough for the longest log you plan to cut plus the length of the carriage. 

Bunks depend on how long a log you plan to handle.  Mine are evenly spaced, except for an extra bunk between two of them so I can handle very short logs. 

It sounds to me like you are looking for blueprints.  They are available online for not much money.  I have no recommendations good or bad. 

The big question is do you want to mill logs or do you want to build and tweak a sawmill? 

[kelLOGg]

I was given a new 5 bolt 2000 lb axle with 36" between the leaf mounts and 48" between the flange inside faces.
Would like to use this as is but I can cut and stretch if needed.

Thanks for your help.
Regards,
William.

If you are planning to take the mill on the road, I think a 2000 lb axle is undersized. The bumps a mill undergoes towing over potholes or rural roads puts a big demand on the axle. I put a pipe with a 3.00" dia and a wall thickness of 0.27" on my MP32. (I bent the original axle)

Bob

[William1961]

Was thinking the same thing about the axle.
I grabbed it so I could use the hubs as a last resort.
I was thinking of cutting the hubs off and slipping them inside some square tube.
I wanted to install a square tubed axle and leafs permanently on the frame.
Then just slip the square tubed hubs inside the square tube on the frame and pin them in place.

My idea of being able to remove the tires when sawing.
That's why I was interested in the average bed width.
I have Bill Rakes plans Nd a style of Linn lumber carriage frame and track with large dogging system. 
Also other plans that utilize tires.

I understand that metal is forgiving and can be changed later.
I am guilty of over engineering stuff.
Will try to keep it simple.
Will be buying steel for the carriage and saw frame in the next few days.
Thanks for the advice much appreciated.

[William1961]

 

 

[William1961]

[William1961]

[Kbeitz]

That winch will wack you... You better get a worm drive winch.
E=bay has them cheap. When you let go of the handle it stays put.

[William1961]

4 of these are in the mail.
4" dia 1 1/2" wide v groove.

[William1961]

That winch will wack you... You better get a worm drive winch.
E=bay has them cheap. When you let go of the handle it stays put.

Bought it on sale.
Not sure where I will use it.
I have a 12v angle drive reducer.
Was planning on using it to raise or lower carriage.
Will see if it works.
I have a 3000 lb electric winch for rolling the logs up the ramp.
I have seen this type of hand winch used in other sawmills.
Is your concern the locking ratchet will release on its own.?

[Kbeitz]

If you use it to raise and lower the carriage sooner or later the handle will
Get away from you and give you a good smack or smash your carriage.

[William1961]

With a bandsaw sawmill which uses either a solid round shaft as a guide/support for the saw frame as it travels up or down.
On your mill are the guides secured at the top and bottom so that they do not move.
Or is one end bolted in place and the other end is allowed to move a bit but held in alignment using a piece of square or pipe that it sits in.
What type of bushing or liner is being used for the shaft if any.
Thanks.
William.

[TKehl]

Mine is two pieces of square tubing (one in the other) with some broken band blades welded on one side to take up the slack.