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« Last post by snowstorm on Today at 02:06:39 AM »
call dealer give him the vin yes i have the parts. wrong part what he had was for a 23k rear mine is 30k. backtrack 50 miles then 35 more to the spring shop. they have everything. she is back out side in the cold. the volvo missed the warm garage
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« Last post by snowstorm on Today at 01:59:18 AM »
polaris brutus diesel hystat all kinds of attachments . some times a used one shows up. the cat is a textron that used to be a arctic cat.the ac was bad. had a ac dealer tell me he would not sell them. to much trouble. when textron bought them they made some changes. they are said to be better
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« Last post by donbj on Today at 01:55:18 AM »
First, I do have a manual sawmill and all my wood is cut for me only.
So, on occasion I move small or large logs up to the mill using forks I built for the 3-point on the rear of my tractor. I can move any log I can saw on the mill, so no limitations here.
Sure would be nice to have forks on the front bucket but not sure if spending $700-$800 is worth the costs.
Bolt-on forks are available and curious if they have any practical use? I understand the reduced lifting capacity of extended forks on the front of the bucket but sure would be a lot lot quicker and probably safer than changing out the bucket for a fork.
Looking for first-hand experiences, comments and thoughts, thank you.
You say you can move "small or large logs" with your three point hitch. The large logs is what should decide things. You can ruin your bucket with bolt on forks and over lifting. The reduced lifting capacity still has the break out force applied to your bucket cutting edge. I have a 5300 JD 4x4 with loader and built a set of forks to manhandle my logs. They use the same quick attach as the bucket.
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loss of lift capacity was the big turn away when it came time to buy my tractor. i had used a friend's small kubota that didn't have a detach bucket and he had bolt on forks. again, loss of lift was the key thing, and by trying to lift what the tractor could lift, it actually bent the forks at the clamping bolt. i offered to pay for new forks and instead of new forks, i paid the cost of new forks, in the cost of swopping out for a detach bracket and a set of pallet forks.
if the logs you are lifting are under the rated limit for the FORKS, not the loader arms themselves, then you might be fine, and even if you exceed the rating, you may be good, but for how many times. it only took once for me, and those are a NO-GO for me. if you have a detach bucket, go ahead and spend the money for a set of pallet forks and be done with it. even if you upgrade to bigger tractor, you can still use the forks, but gotta watch and make sure you don't overload the forks, or it can, and possibly WILL damage the forks.
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« Last post by Titus on Today at 12:03:41 AM »
I'm in the market for a bigger saw to cut my firewood with is kinda my hobby, I love it. I have had a Husky 50 for years and have cut countless truck loads of wood with it and its showing it age. I have found a 266 for $200 locally and was wondering If I should jump on it or shop around. The same guy has a 162 for $150 also.
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« Last post by nativewolf on Yesterday at 11:52:04 PM »
We had nothing but snow/sleet/freezing rain. Got calls from Firewood processor looking for 1000 cords. I'll see what he's paying tomorrow. The pulp mill price increase has squeezed his supply I guess. Not really what I'm sawing but this is the first time the firewood guys have called me here desperate for wood
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Mredden, I really appreciate all the info and scenarios. With all the research ive been doing it looks like you're correct in saying that it would be better to start with a single head mill. Just out of curiosity why are the double ended bars so expensive? I know my budget is small and it is a little flexible but unfortunately im shoe-stringing it for now. I am currently watching a Stihl ms461 (76.5cc) and a stihl 066 (91.5cc) on ebay. Both are around the $400 range. I think you are right about the larger maple piece, it will likely just have to wait for a while. If I am able to grab either of those saws i will take it straight to a 2 stroke mechanic and have an oversized gas line and other performance parts fitted. Ive had really good experiences with a local guy working on my regular yard saw and it really has more kick after a good tune up. Thanks again for the advice, Ill check back in soon, hopefully with a good power head on its way to my house!
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Will that stuff peel out the bark? If your tailgunner on the loader runs a fork down the log on an angle just off lengthwise? I used to bark a lot of logs that way.... use the tip of the fork run along the log to gouge lengthwise then hit it again more from the front and if you get the angle right a lot of them almost roll right out of it, or at least with what I cut they will.
Ask him to have a play for ya... might take some pressure off the debarker if you can slip them out of their muddy jackets.
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« Last post by HolmenTree on Yesterday at 11:40:16 PM »
Interesting MS 382 Holmen. Any more pictures? Maybe the whole saw. What is cavity at base of 22cylinder for on ex side?
Is bolt pattern and bore/stroke same as a 038M (I'm thinking a swap possibility)?
What was that poor saw running? 30W at 16:1?
MP, that was a MS382 that showed up in Joe Indies shop. It shares alot of the MS460 parts and has a similar cylinder scavaging setup as the MS461. Same cc as a 038 Magnum, even has flippy caps and a side chain tensioner.  
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« Last post by opticsguy on Yesterday at 11:39:20 PM »
First, I do have a manual sawmill and all my wood is cut for me only.
So, on occasion I move small or large logs up to the mill using forks I built for the 3-point on the rear of my tractor. I can move any log I can saw on the mill, so no limitations here.
Sure would be nice to have forks on the front bucket but not sure if spending $700-$800 is worth the costs.
Bolt-on forks are available and curious if they have any practical use? I understand the reduced lifting capacity of extended forks on the front of the bucket but sure would be a lot lot quicker and probably safer than changing out the bucket for a fork.
Looking for first-hand experiences, comments and thoughts, thank you.
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I have no experience drying Doug Fir, but unless it's incredibly easy to dry that is a very good price for 3" thick material.
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« Last post by BargeMonkey on Yesterday at 11:35:54 PM »
 They are a good engine, not that it's super common but I would keep a few spare jumpers on hand, I've seen them crack and fill the base up. You can buy adapters to change over the filter housing to a spin on, last one I did on a 6v53 I plumbed with hoses and remote mounted it 3ft away to get to it.
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I guess go ahead, if I make a sale I'll give the forum its share. I didn't get his last name but he said no need to be formal and call him Noach, Noah was fine. Looks like his boat plans are written in stone, asked about buying a breeding pair of my Guineas, keeps looking at the sky and gets really nervous every time it rains. I will get his number next time he is over. 
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« Last post by Jsawyer on Yesterday at 11:26:40 PM »
On 1st tank what mix should you use. 40:1,or 50:1. I too bought new saw had the shop tune it but haven't ran it yet. I bought the same saw ms362 with 25" light bar. I'm waiting on my dog...what tin piece of junk came on it.
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I want to see a picture of the cracked cylinder.
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« Last post by BargeMonkey on Yesterday at 11:19:09 PM »
If your working in rugged ground dual arch is nice, depends on the size of the wood your in also, I get cutting the big stuff on a decent skid I start hooking chokers. Good luck finding something really newer for cheap money in awesome shape, especially a newer grapple. I gave 45k for my 460 no questions asked because I knew it wasnt thrashed. I can give you that guys # with the 620, for what it is i dont think it's a bad machine. I can sell you that for 16k ?  28k.  Get you a decent engine down Timbco for 14k... 😂  The deals are out there,
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« Last post by Highhood on Yesterday at 11:08:42 PM »
I’ve setup a lot of different types of differentials over the years and I thought it might be a good time to swap in a locker since I will have hubs and axles pulled to replace seals. A new locker is $1000 but was hoping I could find a good used one to swap in. First try to add a photo 
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« Last post by louiseM on Yesterday at 11:08:16 PM »
well, the brand new 372XP arrived today and is still in the box, I got the same one as I had before because I thought then I'd have the other one for spare parts, but, in light of this conversation, am thinking maybe I should return it, it is too much saw for me personally, at this time, and, do I really want to risk others using it when I still don't know exactly what killed the other one? If I return it, I could get a smaller one and a pole saw...I still need one that could do firewood cutting from some good sized trees, not year round, but mostly in Fall...and then maybe I could sell my barely used destroyed one....decisions, decisions, any recommendations as to which saw would be better to downsize to?...going to sleep on this now...
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Andries,
Yes, unfortunately, my buddy got his ankle crushed. Horrible.
Years and years later, knowing full well not to, I got bit almost the exact same way, but luckily was able to get free after being trapped for well over an hour, and suffered permanent nerve damage to my foot. Completely careless and stupid. I knew better.
Quick detach means quick detach. An implement on the ground, with the loader in pressure down or in float mode seems safe, but is simply a cocked mouse trap. When the second lever of the quick detach is disengaged, the loader arms will drop fast, and anything in their path will get crushed. Unfortunately, been there done that.
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Heeeers your sign.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
Lynn, Isn't that a road map of how both houses of congress works. Bruce
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