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oops, didn't see the hardwood comment part
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General Board / case articulated wheel loaders

« Last post by 1countryboy on Today at 04:50:39 PM »
I am looking for opinions of the difference between case type wheel loaders(cab on front) vs Allis Chalmers type (cab on rear with the engine).   I have always had AC type, but are a lot more Case out there (tail wagers). How do they handle?  

My loader is used for everything from moving bales, firewood logs, loading my processor, moving logs to my mill, loading manure, rocks and anything else I can lift or push:D :D.

I know the Allis Chalmers just don t know that much about the Case.  W14, thru W20.   I need to be able to transport it on my trailer legal at 8'6" and under 25,000 trailer.   Like to hear your input.   
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Sawmills and Milling / Thickness to saw.....revisited.

« Last post by D6c on Today at 04:48:39 PM »
Getting ready to make a couple of new hardwood lumber scales for my LT-40.
The original scale (1987) didn't allow enough thickness for clean up.  For example the lines on the 4/4 scale were 1 1/6" apart and after you take about .1" out for kerf you were left with a little over 15/16".

I made up another scale and have 4/4 marked on it to rough saw to 1 1/8, and now need to mark it out for
5/4 (1 3/8")
6/4 (1 5/8") and
8/4 (2 1/8")

I know 4/4 is supposed to finish at 3/4", and 5/4 fishes to 1" but....
are 6/4 & 8/4 supposed to finish at 1 1/4" & 1 3/4" respectively?....Or are hardwood finish sizes different?

Not many people in my area are used to buying rough sawn material and there's always confusion about what the sizes really mean.
I can see I need to make up a spec. sheet to hand out so poeple will know what the rough sawn and finish-to sizes actually measure.
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I am just in that sanding finishing cycle and the more I sand, the more little things I find that I want to make right. Last night I didn't even go out because we had my daughter and her hubby over for her birthday and it was much more fun to catch up with them. Tonight I will have to do another tiny pour for something else I missed on the first (and second, and third) go-round. Because it is cool in the shop the epoxy is taking longer to hit full cure which delays things. But I keep moving to other parts and sand away. Sanding is thinking time, just mindless tedious work and the time has to be filled with something so I think. 
 And that's when I get into trouble. I believe that is where I came up with the idea for that last loft which is on hold until I get some logs. Night before last when I was out there I was thinking about the heat and how getting 5 gallons of oil every 6 days or so was beginning to add up. When I go out there the temp is between 32 and 38. After the heat (oil/hot air) is on for about 1/2 hour, it gets up to around 48-52 which is fine for working. However because the heat is off most of the time, the walls, floors, and machines are all cold thermal mass. Keeping in mind this has been a very warm winter, what happens when it hits 10 below? They key is to get that mass on my side of the heat curve and the only way to do that is a full time heat source and oil is not the answer. I heated my last shop entirely with wood and the temp held very well. The only answer I came up with is 'wood heat'. You might say that's a no brainer, but there is a reason I have not done it over the last 32 years, and that is cost. I would have to install a proper chimney and that might run close to a grand. That's where the thought always ended. There is no skimping when it comes to chimneys, it has to be right and with new materials. I actually have a very good stove ready for it, but that chimney cost was always the killer (plus the high ladder work).
 Anyway, while we were getting things ready for the kids arrival last night I was thinking on this out loud and my wife started asking questions. This morning she said, "you know, I think we really need to put a proper chimney in the shop if you are going to be out there so much." (I love my wife ;D). 
 So, now I have another project in the queue but have a timeline for this one that ends in September. I might like to get some of the attic work done before the big heat comes in July and August. It's close to 40 years since I put one of these in so I have to re-learn the codes and make sure everything is done right. I also have to re-furb that stove over the summer, it has been waiting a very long time to be used again. It heated my last shop.
 I'll be back at the sanding tonight. Should give me some time to think through where this thing is gonna go. ???

Hey Brandon, if you have some log sizes and species you want me to run, I can do the numbers for you. I can even direct email right from the phone app to you if you like.

 
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General Board / Re: Leyland cyprus

« Last post by Tom King on Today at 04:20:08 PM »
It's rare that it lives long enough to produce anything that size here.  I don't understand why people are still planting it.
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Tree, Plant and Wood I.D. / Re: not ERC

« Last post by Magicman on Today at 04:14:59 PM »
That may depend upon the tree/log.



I am not saying Bald Cypress, just giving a couple of examples.
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Looks like cedar to my color blind eyes
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Some very pretty wood! Any guesses what it is? The little lady has not decided what it will be yet so it still laying on the mill. I'll let you know what it is when she decides what it will be.  




HINT:

Its a hardwood!
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Chainsaws / Re: makita 52cc chainsaw model????

« Last post by Mr Excitement on Today at 03:06:18 PM »
A was The same IPL covers many saws, including the 520 and 5200i. They are the same saw with a few different parts between them. The i is for the injection carb. You can see the injector by removing the filter. The 520 is open port and the 5200 is closed. Good luck if you need a closed port cylinder. The windowed piston works in both.


Dolmar 109, 110, 111, 115 is the same chassis in orange.
What part do you need?
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Sawing project 2020

« Last post by Jeff on Today at 02:41:38 PM »
I booked a room at La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Dublin.
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Chainsaws / Re: how long does a bar last

« Last post by Al_Smith on Today at 02:27:48 PM »
There are as many opinions about bar oil as there are mix oils . Weather there is any difference depends on who you talk to . I usually just use what ever is the cheapest and has plenty of tacking agent .Stihl or Husqvarna might be better,might not be .I'm at the age now I detest cold weather so more times than  I don't cut in cold weather so "winter mix " has little bearing on the subject .A long time ago when the weather was real cold I had to use automatic tranny fluid because it was so cold it would not pump regular bar oil .At the same times those saws breathing cold oxygen rich air would really run .
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No.  Hwy 12 is 120 miles North of me. 

Funny, but one of my larger (12,103 bf) "non-sinker" Cypress job was on Hwy 12.  ;D

Whack O Cypress in Sawmills and Milling

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Tree, Plant and Wood I.D. / Re: not ERC

« Last post by xlogger on Today at 02:26:20 PM »
those look like what I've got only a little more red
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Question on Labor cost

« Last post by Dewey on Today at 02:25:28 PM »
During the summer months, we would sticker some of our lumber to prevent any staining.  We stacked and stickered right off the mill, and this eliminated the need to double handle the wood.  Is that an option?

Since its going to a kiln, wouldn't it be more advantageous to have them sticker the wood?  They have stickers they use over and over.  They also have the equipment and the ability to sticker large amounts of wood in a short amount of time using minimal labor.  It will also be stickered to their specs.  Seems a better way to go.
The Kiln is 3rd party..... wants it stickered before it gets there....
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Road Bans

« Last post by GAB on Today at 02:24:15 PM »
You know it is a good mud season (a real mudder) when the local delivery postal personnel get stuck in the road with a 4x4.
GAB
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Road Bans

« Last post by Bruno of NH on Today at 02:17:31 PM »
I have some of them on my road and it's a state road. :D
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This is not an ad, this is an opportunity to learn timber framing.

Join Joel McCarty, Glenn Dodge, and Kyle Whitehead, along with other Guild stalwarts (Jim Rogers) as they cut and raise a frame for the New Hampshire Preservation's Old House & Barn Expo in Manchester on March 21 and 22.
 
 Kyle has gathered the timbers required for the frame and will host a "cutting fest" with Joel and Glenn at his shop in Bradford, New Hampshire, on the Wednesday and Thursday (March 18 and 19) leading up to the Expo. 
 
 The frame will be raffled off at the Expo.

Non guild members are welcome to come and learn from these master craftsmen.
To sign up for this "cutting fest" send me an email or pm. Non members attending will receive a six month digital membership in the Timber Framers Guild.

Jim Rogers
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Old Homemade Spare Tire Saw Mill

« Last post by KenMac on Today at 01:47:01 PM »
Take a look at the Cook's Saw guides, there is a link to their website on the left.

They sell guides but if doing the DIY way it will give you some ideas as well as info on how to set the guides too.
Cook's has a YouTube video on their guides as well.
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FOOD! FOOD! FOOD! / Re: Pan fried chops

« Last post by Raider Bill on Today at 01:33:14 PM »
WHAAAT!!! No grits? :D That is a good looking meal.
I'm a Yankee, no grits :D
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Health and Safety / Re: Rotator cuff

« Last post by Raider Bill on Today at 01:32:25 PM »
Of course it's my right arm..
Funny thing is as much as it hurt before the operation it didn't bother me riding the Road King. It did on the Shovelhead that has ape hangers.
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