Useful sawmill mods

[pa_of_6]

I think it would work great...but I am worried about the extra weight that would be on the cutting head due to the oil tank. I figure about 10 gallons...so an extra 100 puonds at least.

I really need to get info on the variable speed control system of the LT 70. Exactly how the pulse modulation works.

[Magicman]

Your project is way out of my league, so I'll just say Welcome to The Forestry Forum.

[Bibbyman]

I think it would work great...but I am worried about the extra weight that would be on the cutting head due to the oil tank. I figure about 10 gallons...so an extra 100 puonds at least.

I really need to get info on the variable speed control system of the LT 70. Exactly how the pulse modulation works.

Would you necessarily have to put the oil reserve tank on the sawhead?  Where did they mount it on the LT50 with all hydraulic drive?  I don't remember seeing it on the sawhead?

[pa_of_6]

Yep, the tank was on the sawhead....and the pump was driven via v-belt of the front pulley. It was only a gallon and a half tank.
There were two pumps stacked together....one for the power feed and one for the raise lower function. The pumps share a common shaft but different housings...neat little pumps, but the canadian dealer couldn't find a price for it. (I think it would have been a little too small for the LT 70 also)

I chatted with woodmizer the other day about what ever happenned to that mill...seems that it has vanished from their production line....wonder why?

Does anyone out there have one of them?

Thanks for the welcome...And you just never know who is on line that has that little tidbit of info to make it all happen.

[Bibbyman]

I chatted with woodmizer the other day about what ever happenned to that mill...seems that it has vanished from their production line....wonder why?

Does anyone out there have one of them?

I don't think they built over a couple of them.  Don't know if they ever got one sold. The talk I overheard was that they were trying to get some Amish market.  But I suspect there was still too many other things dependant on electricity to qualify.  Also,  the total price of the mill may not have made it competitive – being based on the high-end LT50 model.  Amish are funny.  The ones in our area will run a gas engine but not diesel.

Didn't the pump on the engine just run the head functions?  Did it still have the two 12v DC pumps to run all the bed functions?

Something to consider with your attempts to make the head travel more robust – what kind of strain would you be putting on the mill that it wasn't designed to take.  (Thinking of Tim Taylor the Toolman – MORE POWER.)

I've always liked the 12v dc motors with belt drive (LT40 Super) because when the head hit something that wouldn't move, or something fell in the way and bound the head,  the belt would just slip. 

[Bibbyman]

Correction...

The LT40 LT50 Hydrostatic drive is still on WM web site so ... wouldn't that mean it's still available?

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/sawmills/options/hydrostatic.aspx

[pa_of_6]

Well so it is....but not on the Canadian website.


and that answers one of my questions....which engine option the pump fit on....this may be easier than I thought.

[sgschwend]

My mill uses a Hyster type dual hydraulic line reel to transfer the hydraulic fluid to the table and back.

The reservoir is part of the saw frame and holds 5 gallons.

Certainly your idea will work but the valving and its control will be very expensive.  I think I was quoted $3000 for the valve, I didn't bother to ask about the cost of the controller.

It is important to deliver full pressure to the motor and regulate the speed on the return side, otherwise your motor speed will vary with load.

The hydro-stat motor looks clever, you would just need to adjust the control arm length to change speeds; don't know how well the speed is regulated with load, probably not a problem.

[Brucer]

My recent price list from WM Canada West shows one hydrostatic model -- LT40HDD51-H. It's a super hydraulic with the Cat 51 HP diesel.

[zopi]

Be aware, that in a state like Michigan, as soon as you do that you are required to have a trailer plate on the mill, because now it is a trailer.  If you are only hauling the mill down the road, then it does not require a plate.

But I like it!

Attach it with u-bolts....part of the structure that way...

[zopi]

I just took one of those cheesy little chinese trailer kit axles and welded a piece of square stock
to it at a right angle...tractor has a 3pt boom..lift the end of the mill, slide the axle under, set the mill down with the axle snugged against the mill feet...drop a ratchet strap across the frame,
tie the little square tube up to the frame to keep the axle from turning, roll the head up and stow it over the axle, lift the other end of the frame with the tractor boom, and gently move the mill around with the tractor..obviously not a highway set up..but makes moving the mill around much easier...could trundle it up a set of ramps onto the trailer I bet...might make a quick tongue for it later...

[Magicman]

Here's a little something that I had kicked around for a while.  Sometimes while sawing 20' logs, I'll hit the rubber bumper too hard.  A couple of hard licks and it will split open.  I've used a heavy duty zip tie for years, but figured that a metal collar would be better.



This is what can happen.... >:(



This had been my fix.



2¼ ID steel tubing was the nearest fit that I could find.  I split it.



I overlapped it around the rubber bumper to get the correct size.



Here they are welded and painted.



Finished job.  I've sawed two days with the mod and so far very good.

[Bibbyman]

Mary went through a couple of those black baby bumpers in the early years.  For some reason, we've just not had that problem for quite a while.  I think because we have a spare in our parts collection.

[LeeB]

Best go dig it out now. You'll likely need it since you said you don't.

[Magicman]

I have a rhythm and generally don't hit the stop, but without the seat and sawing 20' logs......well, it took some getting used to.  Last couple of days I've had better control.

[Brucer]

I've never split one, but I've removed it a few times to squeak an extra 2" of travel out of the mill. (As in, I loaded a big log and it was too close to the hitch end so I couldn't lower the blade.) It's a trick I picked up from Arky.

You really do not want to forget the bumper isn't there when returning the carriage.

[KyTreeFarmer]

Magicman
Nice temporary fix, those "zip ties" sure come in handy for much more than their intended use. Much nicer permanent fix.
KTF

[Magicman]

I'm going to do one other thing when I get the mill back home.  That is to make the end a full 2" in diameter.  That way, it won't try to penetrate down through the rubber bumper.  You can see this in the 1st picture.

[ARKANSAWYER]

  Sometimes I remove the bumpers from both ends to get a little more wiggle room.

[schlep]

I just did a mod to the lift on the new burg mill I just bought. The oridginal one was at the very top of the mill and of a boat trailer winch design with a manual lock. I removed it and replaced it with a sprocket and welded a 30-1 worm gear 4' lower with another sprocket ,put a chain to link them up and now I do not have to worry about a lock and it is easy to turn and stops anywhere. It is shown under burg mill.

[Magicman]

   Yup, I love a worm gear.  It moves when you move and stops when you stop.

[Chuck White]

I added a mod to my mills loading arms a couple weeks ago.

I used to get aggrivated when I'd roll a log up to the loader arms and the arms not being absolutely at ground level, the log would spin on the end of the arms instead of climbing onto it.

I welded three 5/16 nuts on each of the arms.  I welded one on the end of each arm and another about 1½" further up and the 3rd one another 1½".

Logs don't spin anymore.  ;D

[Papa1stuff]

I finished installing the extra contact strip on my LT40SH today also had added the blade guides .
Haven't cut a lot since installation but so far both mods are worth the effort!
I have some pictures to add as soon as I can get them loaded ;D

[paul case]

i added a low cost log taper toe board to my manual mill. i put blocking under the mill in the two places that i most often need a lift to acomadate a 12 ton hyd jack. i just clamp the big end then jack up the lil one and clamp it . works like a charm, it is better than a pry bar and so far hasnt caused any smashed bloody or beat up knuckles .  pc

[Papa1stuff]