Bolted timber frame construction instructions wanted.

scgargoyle · February 06, 2007, 04:41:24 PM

The seismic question is an interesting one. In reading various books about timber frames, I see little mention of tying the frame down- some of the posts are mortised into the sill, but not pegged. Inspectors in FL would have a litter of kittens if they saw that! Timberlinx can be used for tying down to a concrete foundation. You use a one-sided one, screwed onto a 7/8" threaded rod embedded into the concrete. In my native CT, an old house once floated off its foundation during a flood. It obviously wasn't tied down, I don't thing the house I grew up was either (couldn't have been; it was on a dry-laid granite foundation) and it handled the hurricane of '38 just fine. I guess the sheer weight of a timber framed house will hold it down unless there's a flood. With all the talk about 'uplift' these days, whatever I build will be tied down.

Bibbyman · February 17, 2007, 04:24:54 PM

Quote from: Bibbyman on February 01, 2007, 03:30:35 PM

Mary ordered up a used copy of "Timber Framing for the rest of us" from Barnes and Noble. :P

The book just came today. After over a week of no-show, we got a notice that the book was out of stock and they were waiting for a new shipment from the publisher. That sounds odd as it was supose to be a used book coming from A1 Book store through Barnes and Noble.

Looks like it's a new book to me. I flipped through it and now Mary has it. Maybe she'll read it to me out loud. :P

Don P · February 17, 2007, 07:00:16 PM

Well, till she gives it back here's more readin material

. This came in with the mail recently. It shows more connection details and has some good reading. I think you'll have to log in, they are the APA and have lots of good files, worth the slight hassle.

GluLam Connection Details

Roger Nair · February 17, 2007, 07:39:17 PM

Chapter 7 of the Forest Products Lab "Wood Handbook" is a technical resource for the design of fastening systems. Very worthwhile not however a how-to. Try searching FPL and APA sites for manual type publications.

donald_harby · March 01, 2007, 05:44:18 PM

Funny I just happened to look at this because I am thinking about the same thing. I have alot of ideas and already worked out the plates. I will be on spring break and should be back in Fulton for a few days next week. I could come by some time.

Bibbyman · March 01, 2007, 06:25:56 PM

Great timing. I've been playing with a design layout. 8)

Don P · March 01, 2007, 08:15:39 PM

I've been slowly working on a 24' clearspan truss bent. This is the tilt up foot I came up with.

The first bent is timberframed, I'm thinking of making the next bent a bolted assembly.

Jim_Rogers · March 01, 2007, 09:05:52 PM

Don:
I hope you put some water proof membrane between the post bottom and the steel.....

Jim Rogers

Don P · March 01, 2007, 10:43:40 PM

DanG, and those are 10" lags :D

I've got some old inner tube I think I can back off and slip in. Thanks for the eye Jim.

TexasTimbers · March 01, 2007, 11:58:27 PM

If that bent is going to be inside why would you need a waterproof membrane? It isn't ever going to sweat.

Jim_Rogers · March 02, 2007, 01:51:06 AM

You never know......

Don P · March 02, 2007, 09:53:54 PM

Well, since I've done stole part of Bibby's thread, we popped that bent up today. Had to hook the Ford to the Fordson after yesterday's rain but we got er up.

The steep angled reinforcements are 3" x 20' angle iron clamped on, the yellow straps hold a locust 4x across the spline. We jacked and cribbed the bent to about 20 degrees before trying to pull.