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#1
Chainsaws / Stihl 341 oil pump blocked wit...
Last post by Ged - Today at 03:23:40 AMFirst post here.
I'm the proud owner of a very used Stihl 341.
Had it for about two years, cut about three or four tonnes of wood with it. It's a fantastic tool, well on top of everything I think I'll ever need to do.
When I got it, the oil pump didn't work. I found the description of stripping it down to get at the pump a bit intimidating so I've been using an oil can every minute or two to keep the chain wet. Yes it was tedious.
Finally with information from this and a couple of other forums - for which I am most grateful - I plucked up the courage to fill the cyinder with oil to lock the crankshaft so I could take off the clutch to get at the oil pump. It was all surprisingly easier than I expected, and if I'd known then what I know now I'd have done it years ago.
Anyway the oil line was clear enough but when I removed the oil pump itself I found that the oilways in the pump were totally blocked with a grey gunk which had a consistency something like half-set epoxy resin.
What on Earth would cause that?
Is there something I can do to prevent a recurrence?
There's no way that I can see to poke anything right through the oilways to clean them because there are right-angles in them. So I soaked the whole pump in a jar of Aspen 4 for a few days, and then cleared it out as best I could with bits of bent wire and (because I was desperate) an interdental toothbrush and compressed air from a bicycle pump. It all worked a lot better than I thought it would and to my great relief, now that it's all back together, the oil pump pumps oil.
I'm the proud owner of a very used Stihl 341.
Had it for about two years, cut about three or four tonnes of wood with it. It's a fantastic tool, well on top of everything I think I'll ever need to do.
When I got it, the oil pump didn't work. I found the description of stripping it down to get at the pump a bit intimidating so I've been using an oil can every minute or two to keep the chain wet. Yes it was tedious.
Finally with information from this and a couple of other forums - for which I am most grateful - I plucked up the courage to fill the cyinder with oil to lock the crankshaft so I could take off the clutch to get at the oil pump. It was all surprisingly easier than I expected, and if I'd known then what I know now I'd have done it years ago.
Anyway the oil line was clear enough but when I removed the oil pump itself I found that the oilways in the pump were totally blocked with a grey gunk which had a consistency something like half-set epoxy resin.
What on Earth would cause that?
Is there something I can do to prevent a recurrence?
There's no way that I can see to poke anything right through the oilways to clean them because there are right-angles in them. So I soaked the whole pump in a jar of Aspen 4 for a few days, and then cleared it out as best I could with bits of bent wire and (because I was desperate) an interdental toothbrush and compressed air from a bicycle pump. It all worked a lot better than I thought it would and to my great relief, now that it's all back together, the oil pump pumps oil.
#2
Forestry and Logging / Re: Dirt bike logging?
Last post by barbender - Today at 01:14:24 AMEasier on the trucks if you make contact🤷
#3
Forestry and Logging / Re: Dirt bike logging?
Last post by Southside - Today at 12:15:00 AMWho knew that Yamaha built a forwarder? 
#4
Chainsaws / Re: Two stroke oil ratio's- Sa...
Last post by Southside - Yesterday at 11:52:40 PMHonest truth - I run the Walmart outboard oil in the blue jug at 40:1 with the cheap pump gas and have for years. 372's have never had an issue with it.
#5
Chainsaws / Re: Two stroke oil ratio's- Sa...
Last post by barbender - Yesterday at 11:48:25 PM I use the Amsoil Saber too, because it is the most economical quality synthetic oil I can get locally. There's no way I'll run 100:1 or even close to it. I mix it between 32:1 and 40:1. I'm not worried about scoring a piston, even if I was running 100:1 like recommended. I've had a few bearing failures over the years though. I'm more concerned about adequate oil I'm the bearings.
I'm running a jug of Klotz right now. This will be the last one probably I like it, it smells like fabric softener but it costs over 2X what I pay for the Amsoil
I'm running a jug of Klotz right now. This will be the last one probably I like it, it smells like fabric softener but it costs over 2X what I pay for the Amsoil
#6
General Woodworking / Re: Threading wood to replace ...
Last post by Larry - Yesterday at 10:13:24 PMGot a link to this video in my email this morning. Guy runs strength tests on wood inserts versus direct wood threads.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SnrbGwGpI
It was interesting. The comments were just as interesting as the video with lots of pro's and cons.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SnrbGwGpI
It was interesting. The comments were just as interesting as the video with lots of pro's and cons.
#7
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Wall height question IRC 2...
Last post by Don P - Yesterday at 09:40:53 PMTypical lateral support is at the bottom by a slab and the top by a floor. Here there is an unsupported top edge that the wall is sitting on top of. Good for water, bad for stability.
Probably start here with concrete stem walls to get some context;
R404.1.3.2.2 Concrete foundation stem walls supporting light-frame above-grade walls.
R404.1.4.1 Masonry foundation walls.
Foundation walls, supporting more than 4 feet (1219 mm) of unbalanced backfill or exceeding 8 feet (2438 mm) in height shall be constructed in accordance with Table R404.1.1(2), R404.1.1(3) or R404.1.1(4). Masonry foundation walls shall have two No. 4 (No. 13) horizontal bars located in the upper 12 inches (305 mm) of the wall.
Probably start here with concrete stem walls to get some context;
R404.1.3.2.2 Concrete foundation stem walls supporting light-frame above-grade walls.
Concrete foundation stem walls that support light-frame above-grade walls shall be designed and constructed in accordance with this section.
- 1.Stem walls not laterally supported at top. Concrete stem walls that are not monolithic with slabs-on-ground or are not otherwise laterally supported by slabs-on-ground and retain 48 inches (1219 mm) or less of unbalanced fill, measured from the top of the wall, shall be constructed in accordance with Section R404.1.3. Foundation stem walls that retain more than 48 inches (1219 mm) of unbalanced fill, measured from the top of the wall, shall be designed in accordance with Sections R404.1.1 and R404.4.
- 2.Stem walls laterally supported at top. Concrete stem walls that are monolithic with slabs-on-ground or are otherwise laterally supported by slabs-on-ground shall be constructed in accordance with Section R404.1.3. Where the unbalanced backfill retained by the stem wall is greater than 48 inches (1219 mm), the connection between the stem wall and the slab-on-ground, and the portion of the slab-on-ground providing lateral support for the wall, shall be designed in accordance with PCA 100 or in accordance with accepted engineering practice.
R404.1.4.1 Masonry foundation walls.
In buildings assigned to Seismic Design Category D0, D1 or D2, as established in Table R301.2, masonry foundation walls shall comply with this section. In addition to the requirements of Table R404.1.1(1), plain masonry foundation walls shall comply with the following:
- 1.Wall height shall not exceed 8 feet (2438 mm).
- 2.Unbalanced backfill height shall not exceed 4 feet (1219 mm).
- 3.Minimum nominal thickness for plain masonry foundation walls shall be 8 inches (203 mm).
- 4.Masonry stem walls shall have a minimum vertical reinforcement of one No. 4 (No. 13) bar located not greater than 4 feet (1219 mm) on center in grouted cells. Vertical reinforcement shall be tied to the horizontal reinforcement in the footings.
Foundation walls, supporting more than 4 feet (1219 mm) of unbalanced backfill or exceeding 8 feet (2438 mm) in height shall be constructed in accordance with Table R404.1.1(2), R404.1.1(3) or R404.1.1(4). Masonry foundation walls shall have two No. 4 (No. 13) horizontal bars located in the upper 12 inches (305 mm) of the wall.
#8
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Did something dumb today.
Last post by RetiredTech - Yesterday at 09:29:53 PM If it ain't broke don't fix it. Besides if you do fix it it will just aggravate you more when it inevitably gets air in it again. Probably the best fix would be to remove the filter, paint it any color you like and reinstall it. That's the Old South fix. 
#9
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Salvage walnut
Last post by WV Sawmiller - Yesterday at 09:12:16 PMLarry,
I had to go get a bibb when I saw those crooks in that log! When I see a serious crook in a log I immediately think benches. The more severe the crook the prettier the benches. Put 2-3 together and make a circle around a fire pit or put them around a big shade tree facing outward. I've made them with so much bend I had to put a 5th leg in the center on the back side to compensate for the out of balance weight.
I hope you still have some curved pieces left.
I had to go get a bibb when I saw those crooks in that log! When I see a serious crook in a log I immediately think benches. The more severe the crook the prettier the benches. Put 2-3 together and make a circle around a fire pit or put them around a big shade tree facing outward. I've made them with so much bend I had to put a 5th leg in the center on the back side to compensate for the out of balance weight.
I hope you still have some curved pieces left.
#10
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Wall height question IRC 2...
Last post by Dan_Shade - Yesterday at 09:08:40 PMOut of curiosity, how is a block wall typically laterally supported?
