Newby with another project

[Ljohnsaw]

Just took a closer look at your mill - looking great but a warning.  On your log stops and log dogs, you need a way to make them road safe.  I'd suggest you drill a hole through the log stops above the welded socket so you can install a lynch pin for travel.  Don't rely on your bolt to hold it on the road.  Do something similar for the log dogs.  Looks like there is a pin on the far side that would hold the dog up.  Just need a safety chain or some other way to keep it secure.

[fluidpowerpro]

Can't tell you where to place the axle but where your planning will definitely give you adequate tongue weight. You could bring the axel forward a bit and position the mill further forward to get tongue weight. As far as tire size, kind of depends on how much traveling you plan to do. If just around the yard or short trips locally, then 12" is probably ok but anything more than that, I would go bigger. Bigger tires will run lower rpm at highway speeds. With larger tires you will have more choices as far as sidewall ratings, etc. Some have mentioned larger tires can stick up too much and interfere with the mill, but that can be delbt with by adding spacers where the axle mounts. Personally, I like the mill bed up higher so your not bending over as much, so larger tires help that also. I built my mill with 15" tires.

[JoshNZ]

I'd say put the head where it suits, somewhere near the back third, then put the axle where you get ~50-100kg of weight on the tow hitch.

[Cornerstone]

All good points. Thanks

[Cornerstone]

Just took a closer look at your mill - looking great but a warning.  On your log stops and log dogs, you need a way to make them road safe.  I'd suggest you drill a hole through the log stops above the welded socket so you can install a lynch pin for travel.  Don't rely on your bolt to hold it on the road.  Do something similar for the log dogs.  Looks like there is a pin on the far side that would hold the dog up. Just need a safety chain or some other way to keep it secure.

I like the lynch pin idea connected by a thin cable tie. The less loose stuff the better. That pin on the far side needs to moved to the other side, I mounted it there when the log dogs were facing the other way in order to catch it from falling all the way down. I've since turned the dogs around but have not yet moved the pin.

[Crusarius]

could always mount the jacks inside the frame at an angle. get the best of both worlds.

When it comes to axle placement, I always use the rule of thirds. axle should be 2/3rds from the front. that should give you reasonable wheelbase as well as perfect tongue weight.

Also keep in mind tail dragging when going through low spots. The longer the tail the more likely you are to drag.

[Cornerstone]

I made a few more improvements... got the 6 jacks welded into place. I took the advice and brought the jacks outboard more for better stability and not on the very ends either, to keep the frame from wanting to sag as much in the middle.

 

 


I also made holders for the log dogs to sit in during transport or just not in use.



 



 

I also got the axle mounted up but forgot to take pictures. I've got a coupler with a 2 5/16" ball hitch coming in tomorrow. After I get that welded up it will be so nice to move this behemoth from in front of my garage door. It'll be great to be able to tote it around with ease.

[Ljohnsaw]

Looking good!

Not to be a Debbie Downer...  The one jack looks like it is not at a cross member location.  Structural steel does not withstand twisting very well.  That jack can exert quite a bit of torque on the rail.  Might not be a problem, but before it is, I'd put in a cross brace.  Nothing big or fancy.  Maybe a couple pieces of 1x1 tube or even some pipe.  Make an X from the top of one side to the bottom of the other.  Fairly light weight and shouldn't catch a lot of debris.

[Cornerstone]

Not to be a Debbie Downer... 

This is one of the main reasons why I'm here, to avoid unnecessary problems. I appreciate the guidance my friend. Cross braces on the way! Thank you John. 

[Cornerstone]

Decided to incorporate the cross bracing with the tongue and coupler. What do ya think ljohnsaw?



 

 It's first journey to a possible sawmill area. Finally don't have to walk around a maze of sawmill stuff to get in the garage.



 

Even though the blade guides still need some adjustment, I wanted to make sawdust. I'm really tired of grinding metal, cutting metal, welding metal, getting burns on my arms, hands and anywhere else a molten ball decides to bury itself. The worst one yet was in my ear canal, (hearing your flesh sizzle is not recommended) Before I moved the mill to the spot I initially picked out to make a mess, I started the engine and let it warm up for a bit while I went around with a wrench checking all the bolts for tightness, just giving it a quick "preflight" inspection. I left the engine running while I stowed the jacks away and attached the trailer to my trucks hitch. Just before I stood up straight to turn around and go shut the engine off, I hear a sound that only can be a bad thing. The log bed had tilted just enough to allow the saw head to free roll down the rails, only to get nearly half way through a 1/4" thick log dog that was raised above the blades height. So today I ruined my first blade before I even cut any wood. Not many can say they've done that! lol It takes a special kind of newbie to manage that. :




 

Nevertheless, I was not stopping just because of a metal strike. I towed the it over to a potential place I've been considering to set up a saw shed and loaded my first log. This is a shorty cedar that I bought with the first load of logs out of east Texas. Who doesn't love the smell of cedar, right?! It took some finagling to get it locked down steady. I now know what the minimum length of log is now also...54" I think I'm going to want to add more bunks and maybe change up the design of the dogs. I don't like the way they slide on the large tubing.

I wasn't expecting the cut to be any good at all with no guides at all, I just needed to smell me some aromatic cedar... period. First flitch came off and the smell was in the air. A few more super thin slices just for fun. The next pass I took just under an inch and sure enough, with a jacked up blade and no guides the blade began to drop into the cut another 1/2 ", I finished the cut and shut it down until I can take the time to finish the work needed on the guides. It's what I expected. For the time being, I can still smell the cedar on my clothes and that's all right with me!  



   

[JoshNZ]

Haha that is surely a record alright. Joining the club before your mill is even finished  smiley_clapping

What's your painting process? I finished my entire build before it ever saw a lick of paint or primer, but it was a massive job to go back over everything and tidy it up. 

[Cornerstone]

Process? :D Rattle can enamel. I have a distinct feeling I'll have a pink sawmill after a month of 100*+ days in the Texas sun. I may want to respray it with an hvlp gun and add hardener. Possibly a change of colors too.

[Crusarius]

oh thats funny right there. your engine idles high enough the blade doesn;t stop? or is there no clutch? That needs remedy. Need to be able to shut the blade movement off. far to dangerous not to.

as for the paint, Josh the only reason mine got painted when it did was the quick rainstorm I was stuck in trying to finish a log . Drug the mill back into the garage getting soaked then just decided to put a coat of paint on it.

[Ljohnsaw]

Decided to incorporate the cross bracing with the tongue and coupler.

Very nice!  What trouble are you having with your clamps?  If, when your trying to clamp, they slide, you need to shorten the slider part.  It needs to be short enough to get crooked so it can catch.  I made mine from square stock and it is only 2" long.  It catches quite quickly and easily.

[Cornerstone]

Thanks John! Yeah, that's what I need to do, plus open up the slider part a smidge as well, it's too tight and wants to bind too easily.  

[Crusarius]

My clamp sleeve is 6" works well, not to aggressive. sometimes I have to wack it to break it free.

[Cornerstone]

The plane was to remove the saw head to make a few changes to the blade guides. Accessibility was too limited with it mounted. Instead of disassembling the whole thing, I just unbolted it from the center bar, attached a heavy duty strap and used the skid steer to save my back. As I backed away from the mill slowly the weight shifted, and the saw head was suddenly hanging lopsided from the forks. I hopped out of the seat and went to shift it back into a level position. Just before I laid my hands on it the strap came free and down she went with a heavy thud. I suppose a broken band wheel is better than a broken foot. (I'm trying to see the bright side) Yeah... not a good move.



 



 

Fortunately, When this all started I bought 2 sets of band wheels with the intention to build one mill for and sell one to recoup the costs, so I had a spare wheel already on hand. Hopefully I can find a use for the busted wheel so it won't be a total loss. Yesterday I cut into a log stop before I cut into a log, and today this.

   

[Crusarius]

Sounds like its time for a beer and a break. I had one of those days today.

[fluidpowerpro]

Sorry that happened. All you can do is swear a few times and move on. No one died...

[Cornerstone]

Sorry that happened. All you can do is swear a few times and move on. No one died...

Thanks man. That's exactly what I did! ;D 

[JoshNZ]

Braze the wheel up and sell it as a concrete mixer pulley or something.

That's a real ball breaker anyway, sorry to see that! Glad you're not waiting on spares

[Walnut Beast]

Sounds like its time for a beer and a break. I had one of those days today.

That's for sure! When you get everything back together post some pictures 👍. Make sure your strap is money this time!

[Cornerstone]

A few more modifications and she saws straight, level, clean, and fast. I had to add metal to get the roller guides to be aligned properly.



 



 

My first board produced. So cool. I believe I'm hooked. This is right up my alley guys.



 

After I made all the adjustments, the blade stays exactly centered on the band wheels, and is level with the bed. 



 


While it was overall a super productive morning, I do need to change up the design of the drive belts tensioner. For some reason when the blade rotates backwards, the belts stay centered on the pulley, but when it rotates in the direction to cut, the belts walk to the side and eventually  the outer one jumps off. I've tried adjusting the thing to it's fullest ability, and no change. I considered adding shoulders to the tensioner to hold the belts in place, but I'm just not very confident on the idea. 

In this next picture, I'm holding a clutch in the position I plan to move the tensioner to. There are a couple of good reasons to do this. The first being less wear and tear on the belts by not bending them backwards. The other is ease of adjustment. I' still working out the particulars on the new design, but I think it'll be a definite upgrade.


   

I'm generally not one to name things, but I want to give this thing a name. I mentioned earlier in the build the name should reflect the forum in some round about way since you guys steered my clear of problems and gave so much good advice along the way. How about a contest? The person who picks the winning name (obviously at my discretion) will get something sent to them. I'll give it some thought as to what, but it needs to have a bit of value so y'all put your noggins to work. At least a gift card to a favorite man store near you. How about this, if you have a name to suggest, send it in a message. That way, no one else can influence my decision. I'll post all of the choices here after I pick the winner. I want to make a name plate and slap it on the blade guard, so that's how I'll reveal the winner.

[Crusarius]

looks great, I highly recommend you replace those zip screws before another catastrophic failure takes out another wheel.

Or you head

[Cornerstone]

looks great, I highly recommend you replace those zip screws before another catastrophic failure takes out another wheel.

Or you head

Appreciate it...thanks.  
Yep. I just got more hex cap screws to take care of that.