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Telescopic boom loader.

Started by customsawyer, December 22, 2015, 05:11:46 PM

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customsawyer

I recently bought a JLG 10,000 lbs lift and am wondering what is the reason for the forks to be able to float. I am thinking about welding them up solid as I have no plans to need to move them in and out width wise. I just don't like having them move up while I am trying to get them under a log.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Kbeitz

Maybe I would make a fixture to hold them in place but I would not weld on the forks.
It would take the temper out of them and it's really hard to weld to high carbon steel.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

4x4American

It's to annoy the operator!  I think the idea is to help keep them level if you have it tilted too far forward, when trying to get into a pallet, but not entirely sure.  I know how annoying it can get.  You can weld a tang on the back of them that rides on a bar, so that way they don't float out and you can still move them side to side.  You never know when you're gonna need to move them in for something.  I sure would like to keep it adjustable.  Even if you welded tabs and bolted it.
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

Or just weld a bar across in front of them?  Shouldn't take more than a few minutes
Boy, back in my day..

Kbeitz

Can you use two large U-bolts ?
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Stuart Caruk

It's hard to see where you're setting the load down on a roof, so the forks float and allow you to back out easier. It's actually a very handy feature. If you don't like it (it's hard to pry crap out of the dirt for example...) Weld a couple plates onto the sides of the fork carriage, 1 on either side of the fork. Use these to support a bar or rod to keep the forks from tilting out, yet still allow them to be positioned. Do NOT weld the forks solid. As soon as you do, you'll need to move something skinny.

You can also do what I did. Go buy a used fork carriage from a forklift dealer that has side shift and fork positioning and mount it on your toolbar. I paid $400 for mine and it's super handy. I can go back to the original system just by swapping the carriage on the tool plate.
Stuart Caruk
Wood-Mizer LX450 Diesel w/ debarker and home brewed extension, live log deck and outfeed rolls. Woodmizer twin blade edger, Barko 450 log loader, Clark 666 Grapple Skidder w/ 200' of mainline. Bobcats and forklifts.

CHill8903

I welded a few inches of 3/8 chain to the back of each fork and a hook to the frame on each side.  10 second connect/disconnect with no tools, but I've never had to unhook them since I did it 4 years ago.

customsawyer

I should have been more specific when I said float. The forks actually move up and down with in their frame by about 4-6" and they swing out from the bottom. The swing out from the bottom is annoying when you try to dump a log that the center weight is behind the center of the forks. The movement up and down of the 2" shaft that the forks hinge on is one thing I am not understanding. I'm sure there is a reason for it as all of them that I have ever seen are this way.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Down_hand_dave

The up and down movement if there for when you want to take the forks off. You are able to set the forks  on the ground release the weight from the 2" solid stock that holds them to the frame and remove them. Without another piece of equipment.  A option that you will probably  never use. But that's the purpose. I have owned several of the exact machines you have I made a plate that went over the end of the 2" stock with a hole and then tapped the side of the frame that holds it. One grade 8, 1/2" bolt on each side and it's easy to remove if you ever do need to change implement on the boom. I had a bucket for mine and it made a awesome snow cleanup tool. Could make huge piles!!!

millwright

I had the same problem, I took a chain and wrapped around the forks and hooked it together on the back of the frame, keeping them from swinging

jmouton

hey jake if you dont like  it  , i know somebody that would take it off your hands ,,,me  ,,  we  need one and have been looking for a while and havent found one with a decent price ,,   maybe  dont weld the forks  but weld  a bar or blocks under the fork area where they move ,,  i know exactly what you mean  ,, i hate that about them  ,  that is a perfect machine for moving and unloading logs,,,, hey  merry christmas bye the way 

                                                                                          jim
lt-40 wide ,,bobcat,sterling tandem flatbed log truck,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2017 f-350,oh and an edger

customsawyer

Well I finally got it home late yesterday so maybe I can get some pics up here to show what I mean. It seems to be a decent machine and the 10,000 lbs ones don't come around every day. I think I got it at a decent price but one never knows what they are getting with a used machine. Thanks for all the reply's. 
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

customsawyer

Here is a pic of the loader.



 

Here is one of the forks and how they float. They are in the up position now as I have the loader sitting on the ground.



 

With the forks moving up and down like this and also swinging when you go to dump something I can see it getting aggravating.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Magicman

Da big boy gots ah big toy.   :o

I see your problem and it will have to be fixed.  I would be looking for a way to "capture" the forks without weakening them.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

4x4American

Ahh welder up bud!  Ain't like it's permanent!
Boy, back in my day..

Kbeitz

Like I said ....
Dont weld to the forks. You will ruin them.
It would not hold anyway. Some things just gotta flex.
I do all the welding for our local junkyard and i fix stuff like this all the time.
I would buy two large bolts for the slot. That would stop the un and down.
I like the idea of useing a chain to hold the lower part of the forks in.
Or you could use a spring steel U-bolt.

http://www.dsuban.com/custom-u-bolts-c70/

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Here Jake's machine at a 55 foot reach.



 
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Magicman

Dat's gonna be ah tall stack uh lumber.   :o  :o
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

customsawyer

I also like that the tires are solid. ;D ;D ;D


 
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

POSTON WIDEHEAD

The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

jmouton

thats nice


                                                                                jim
lt-40 wide ,,bobcat,sterling tandem flatbed log truck,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2017 f-350,oh and an edger

stavebuyer

Chain them. A little "float" is handy unloading trucks or getting under lumber stacks on uneven ground.

Wallee

Quote from: stavebuyer on December 24, 2015, 10:45:22 AM
Chain them. A little "float" is handy unloading trucks or getting under lumber stacks on uneven ground.

What this guy said ^^^
Lt28 Woodmizer, International 3514 wheel loader, husqvarna 450,455 rancher, and 372xp saws, 1990 international 4700 log truck, Prentice 180b knuckleboom!

beenthere

Agree that those forks may have a reason for hanging that way, but think they will be most frustrating to use for the many things forks can do for you. And digging out a log from a pile would be one of them.

May also think of a way to position a small camera (like the back-up camera's on cars now) on or near the fork rack with a monitor in the cab would help a lot when "reaching out".
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Dave Shepard

One of my favorite features of a Tele is that you can level left to right. I'd do anything possible to get rid of the float feature. I can understand putting lifts of material up 50 feet that it can be hard to judge where the forks are, but for log and lumber handling, the float feature is a pain. The floppy fork situation is even worse. If the heel of a fork catches when you are pulling away from a load on the ground or a trailer, it tips the end of the fork up. Depending on what you are loading, this can be a pain, or it could cost thousands of dollars. The first thing I would do is see if you can find a dealer that has a standard forklift style carriage with side shift, and trade your forks in on a set. If not, I would weld a piece of bar stock in that slot above the shaft to keep it from lifting up. As for the swinging feature, I'd have to look closely to see the best way to fix that. You could weld tabs, pieces of 3/4"x4" the width of the forks, to the top of the fork on the round tubing portion and weld something to the back of the fork frame that the tabs will hit if they swing. Not great, but will make a huge difference, as long as you don't try to "back drag" too much. If you need to get logs off of a trailer between fenders, or want to try and pick a single log out of a pile, it is very difficult if the forks swing down when you need them to be vertical.

Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

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