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RetiredTech, Cedarman, GRANITEstateMP, caveman, Sod saw, terrifictimbersllc, leeroyjd, Peter Drouin, FATBOY2017
RetiredTech, Cedarman, GRANITEstateMP, caveman, Sod saw, terrifictimbersllc, leeroyjd, Peter Drouin, FATBOY2017
Recent posts
#1
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by Peter Drouin - Today at 05:59:12 AMFirst time I saw this happen. One of my cats going 100 miles an hour by me with two bluejays chasing it 
#2
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by WhitePineJunky - Today at 05:30:32 AMQuote from: SwampDonkey on Today at 03:48:41 AMLarge trees around here like spruce or maple have a lot of but flare, so cutting low is no advantage to the producer. That'll have to be cut off square anyway or be a reject. Mill specs here will state, 'no but flare'. And you can't sell a saw log over 28" but end anyway. An exception might be white pine mills, those big old pines are well over 28".Going that extra bit lower though may give you the extra few inches you need to cut a 16' log out though
Other than that I agree with what all has been said
#3
Forestry and Logging / Re: Need tractor help please
Last post by Peter Drouin - Today at 05:23:29 AM
#4
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by SwampDonkey - Today at 03:48:41 AMLarge trees around here like spruce or maple have a lot of but flare, so cutting low is no advantage to the producer. That'll have to be cut off square anyway or be a reject. Mill specs here will state, 'no but flare'. And you can't sell a saw log over 28" but end anyway. An exception might be white pine mills, those big old pines are well over 28".
#5
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by SwampDonkey - Today at 03:22:52 AMAnd I find height off the ground is important to. Around 6 feet. I have a taller box that the swallows always go to. 
I wrap my posts in a critter deterrent that is a roll of mesh with spikes that no cat or coon will climb. The spikes are not sharp like thorns, but do the job. We have a lot of neighbor barn cats that prowl around here night and day. I have some small framed garden beds near the nest box and I see cats have been in the onion patch like a litter box. :D
I wrap my posts in a critter deterrent that is a roll of mesh with spikes that no cat or coon will climb. The spikes are not sharp like thorns, but do the job. We have a lot of neighbor barn cats that prowl around here night and day. I have some small framed garden beds near the nest box and I see cats have been in the onion patch like a litter box. :D
#6
Chainsaws / Re: First time chainsaw user e...
Last post by Ianab - Today at 03:07:04 AMLets see.
Stock chain will be perfectly OK. Maybe buy a spare loop. Means you can quickly swap over chains if you accidentally hit a rock or try excavating dirt. (we have all done that at some point
) Carbide chain is for special uses. It doesn't actually cut as fast a sharp regular chain, but it stays sharp(ish) longer in harsh conditions. Mud covered or burnt logs etc. Firefighters often use it on their rescue saws because they are cutting through walls and roofs, hitting who knows what, and it will eventually get though anything sensible.
So, get a spare chain, and a reasonable sharpening kit. Files / guide jig / depth gauge etc. There are various options, and 100 different opinions on which is the best. But if you get one, and take the time to learn how to use it, then you will be able to resharpen the saw to cut like new. Expert level is getting it to cut better than new.
Chain oil? There is no Magic Chain Oil. It's 30 weight lube oil with some heavier sticky stuff to help it stay on the chain better. Buy what's on special, and remember to fill the tank each time you gas up the saw. The chain oil is a consumable, and gets flicked off the bar into the sawdust all the time. Important part is that it keeps flowing.
The canned premix fuels are expensive, but for your use case it might be worth the money. Regular gas degrades over time, especially if it has ethanol in it. If you use a saw regularly, it's not such a problem as the fuel is always fresh. If you might not use the saw for 6 months, and only use a few gallons a year, then the cost isn't huge.
And you should get some PPE, chainsaw chaps, and I use a forestry helmet. Face shield, ear muffs and a hard hat combined.
Fancy Chain - No
Fancy Bar Oil - No
Fancy Fuel - Probably
Fancy PPE - Yes
Stock chain will be perfectly OK. Maybe buy a spare loop. Means you can quickly swap over chains if you accidentally hit a rock or try excavating dirt. (we have all done that at some point
) Carbide chain is for special uses. It doesn't actually cut as fast a sharp regular chain, but it stays sharp(ish) longer in harsh conditions. Mud covered or burnt logs etc. Firefighters often use it on their rescue saws because they are cutting through walls and roofs, hitting who knows what, and it will eventually get though anything sensible. So, get a spare chain, and a reasonable sharpening kit. Files / guide jig / depth gauge etc. There are various options, and 100 different opinions on which is the best. But if you get one, and take the time to learn how to use it, then you will be able to resharpen the saw to cut like new. Expert level is getting it to cut better than new.
Chain oil? There is no Magic Chain Oil. It's 30 weight lube oil with some heavier sticky stuff to help it stay on the chain better. Buy what's on special, and remember to fill the tank each time you gas up the saw. The chain oil is a consumable, and gets flicked off the bar into the sawdust all the time. Important part is that it keeps flowing.
The canned premix fuels are expensive, but for your use case it might be worth the money. Regular gas degrades over time, especially if it has ethanol in it. If you use a saw regularly, it's not such a problem as the fuel is always fresh. If you might not use the saw for 6 months, and only use a few gallons a year, then the cost isn't huge.
And you should get some PPE, chainsaw chaps, and I use a forestry helmet. Face shield, ear muffs and a hard hat combined.
Fancy Chain - No
Fancy Bar Oil - No
Fancy Fuel - Probably
Fancy PPE - Yes
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Ain't Normal
Last post by Ianab - Today at 02:23:49 AMWe have had some cyclones / wind storms knock over large areas of pine forest here. It then becomes a scramble to salvage as much as possible before the logs degrade. But it basically needs a coordinated effort from the logging crews / truckers / mills / export buyers to make it happen. Basically taking crews off their scheduled harvest jobs from nearby areas, and moving them into the salvage area. In that scenario there isn't a glut of logs, because the overall harvest is still limited by the number of crews. The other trees they were scheduled to harvest just grow another 6 months, so no loss there. Mills still get their supply of logs, although some extra trucking may be involved.
But it's a big project to put together, not something a small land owner can arrange.
This is a documentary about the salvage operation after cyclone Gabrielle last year. About 3 million tons of logs on the ground.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13bRIFJTCxA
But it's a big project to put together, not something a small land owner can arrange.
This is a documentary about the salvage operation after cyclone Gabrielle last year. About 3 million tons of logs on the ground.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13bRIFJTCxA
#8
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by Nealm66 - Yesterday at 11:43:54 PMI think it's easier to clean your undercuts out with the humbolt. I will purposely come up short and then clean the Dutchman out for accuracy on large trees. Small trees like around 8", it's whatever but large trees the humbolt is just easier to let the saw do the work most of the time. There are some rare occasions like Skeans says where you might have to bore or back bar the lowercut. I worked with a couple old guys in large old growth who would make the lower cut first so the undercut wouldn't pinch and would slide out. I never could aim good that way.
#9
Chainsaws / First time chainsaw user equip...
Last post by svanhornjr - Yesterday at 11:35:41 PMI have to trim some tree limbs and this is my first time so I figured who could give me better advice then you guys so please forgive my ignorance just need some advice.
I bought a Husqvarna 130 Gas Powered Chainsaw, 38-cc 2-HP, 2-Cycle X-Torq Engine, 16 Inch Chainsaw.
I need a couple of recommendations if you guys would be so kind. I know this is subject to personal preference a little also.
Through my own research, from what I have read it may be a good idea to buy a carbide blade because the "stock" blade may not be the best. Any recommended manufacturer? I keep seeing Oregon. Thoughts?
As far as chain oil I've read that Harvest King is supposed to be really good. Thoughts?
Finally, instead of mixing my own, I was thinking of using Trufuel as after I am done with all the tree trimming, I will be draining everything for storage and it's not a big job. Couple of tree limbs probable totaling around 100 feet and I take really good care of my tools and equipment so would like to use quality with my equipment.
Extremely grateful for any and all advice. Thank you again.
I bought a Husqvarna 130 Gas Powered Chainsaw, 38-cc 2-HP, 2-Cycle X-Torq Engine, 16 Inch Chainsaw.
I need a couple of recommendations if you guys would be so kind. I know this is subject to personal preference a little also.
Through my own research, from what I have read it may be a good idea to buy a carbide blade because the "stock" blade may not be the best. Any recommended manufacturer? I keep seeing Oregon. Thoughts?
As far as chain oil I've read that Harvest King is supposed to be really good. Thoughts?
Finally, instead of mixing my own, I was thinking of using Trufuel as after I am done with all the tree trimming, I will be draining everything for storage and it's not a big job. Couple of tree limbs probable totaling around 100 feet and I take really good care of my tools and equipment so would like to use quality with my equipment.
Extremely grateful for any and all advice. Thank you again.
#10
Sawmills and Milling / Re: The Opening Face
Last post by rusticretreater - Yesterday at 11:29:46 PMI'm still a noob compared to you grizzled old veterans, but I have taken to planning cuts to make sure I get the best cuts I can. I really love quartersawn, but you gotta plain saw to get them wide boards. I do have projects where I select logs that will give me the best results. Being a manual mill, every extra turn of the log or cant adds up.
Most crooked logs are just firewood to me unless they have a pretty good diameter. Then they become building project wood as the wood grain patterns are a bit off.
The times I level the pith is on the straight logs and I am going for quartersawn and/or a post with the pith centered. I do like Ianab's methods and to always be on the lookout for a cut that can make stickers.
Most crooked logs are just firewood to me unless they have a pretty good diameter. Then they become building project wood as the wood grain patterns are a bit off.
The times I level the pith is on the straight logs and I am going for quartersawn and/or a post with the pith centered. I do like Ianab's methods and to always be on the lookout for a cut that can make stickers.
