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thecfarm, WhitePineJunky, Don P, Risoya, bushhog920, Peter Drouin, terrifictimbersllc, Ianab, jcalderera, SawyerTed, Skeans1, olcowhand
thecfarm, WhitePineJunky, Don P, Risoya, bushhog920, Peter Drouin, terrifictimbersllc, Ianab, jcalderera, SawyerTed, Skeans1, olcowhand
Recent posts
#1
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by WhitePineJunky - Today at 06:14:47 AMQuote from: Skeans1 on Yesterday at 10:59:24 PMBut are you also considering what was mentioned above ? If you need an extra couple inches or you see you'll have close to a 16' log so you cut low as possible, it pays off. Maybe it's different on your big timber out there, on my stuff I cut 10"-3ft , I can always get lower with a conventional, maybe it matter less on the big timber your way? Just trying to understand thanks for input skeansQuote from: weimedog on Yesterday at 09:13:16 AMThat's a good thing, a meaningful discussion of why a particular approach is used. On the flats, I use a conventional and have the hinge in a root flare if possible. Certainly as close to the edge to Get ALL of the wood I can to the landing. Can save over a ft per tree vs. Humboldt partly because to use a Humboldt I would have the bar in the dirt to cut that low. So save a foot a tree using conventional and My log buyers takes the measurement FROM the base on the veneer & trees where the face cut is out of the money wood. Adds up quick at over a buck a foot. Using the conventional on a typical 100 tree job is 100ft of timber. Also typically pine and other soft wood around here is less than 300 a thousand, so LOTS vs every bit of it is the norm AND feller bunchers as it's tough for a logger to make a living getting 1/2 of 300 a thousand on soft wood. Out west soft wood is the norm. Here Hard Wood with much higher value is the norm. Different techniques to maximize return on investment have been developed in both area's. Why it's tough to listen to the one size fits all and push for Humboldt's by some of the large high volume Pacific North West Canadian channels for anything other than pure entertainment and to see other peoples worlds.If I left a conventional face in a veneer alder log out here you'd have more then deduction you'd have a free cull log to the mill there's reason we do what we do, are you really gaining anything with a conventional face with a "lower" stump? How low are you cutting? If my sight cut is as low as the top of the face cut are who is wasting more wood?
#2
General Board / Re: The weather 2024
Last post by Peter Drouin - Today at 06:07:25 AMQuote from: thecfarm on Today at 05:00:53 AMBeen some nice weather here. Dry!! And even some sun!!!I hope so
Suppose to hit at least 80 today.
#3
General Board / Re: The weather 2024
Last post by Ianab - Today at 06:05:25 AMWe are fine here, just a bit of cool rain, Norrth and East have been slammed. Auckland recorded 80mm of of rain in an hour overnight. That's over 3". in an hour. Fortunately it wasn't longer duration as the front moved over. Some other small scale flooding over on the East, but just rain here.
#4
FOOD! FOOD! FOOD! / Re: 2024 Garden Seeds and Star...
Last post by thecfarm - Today at 05:16:40 AMThe trouble with gardening in our climate. if a mistake is made, it's too late for that year. 
#5
General Board / Re: The weather 2024
Last post by thecfarm - Today at 05:00:53 AMBeen some nice weather here. Dry!! And even some sun!!!
Suppose to hit at least 80 today.
Suppose to hit at least 80 today.
#6
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by Ianab - Today at 03:31:36 AMFair enough, that's why I asked if there was a market. You can sell green pine off-cuts here, as long as it's cheaper. If you don't have that market. then yeah, don't go there.
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by Dave Shepard - Today at 03:12:09 AMIt's 98% pine, so not firewood here. I like burning pine slabs in my owb, but my time is more valuable than the benefit of running the owb, especially when they are completely rusted out. I don't know what they cost these days, but I hear you can get Central Classics if you have a brick of cash and don't ask any questions. I'm not going to cough up $10k, or more, for the privilege of spending every Sunday cutting up slabs and then being a slave to the boiler twice a day for six months of the year. I currently have a mess from the last ten years at my house that would probably cost as much to clean up as the fuel the owb saved in that time. 
#8
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by Ianab - Today at 02:42:42 AMDo you have a firewood market?
A local guy running semi-portable had a rig on the back of a farm tractor. In-feed rollers, a big chop saw, and a conveyor / elevator out-feed. All the slabs and reject boards just got slid down a roller table and into this processor. An automatic advance 12", drop the saw, retract the saw, repeat. The cut wood went up the conveyor into his small dump truck. When it was full, $200 of random size green firewood ready to deliver.
I know everyone want DRY firewood, but there are folks smart enough to buy it 12 months ahead and dry it themselves, as long as it's cheaper.
A local guy running semi-portable had a rig on the back of a farm tractor. In-feed rollers, a big chop saw, and a conveyor / elevator out-feed. All the slabs and reject boards just got slid down a roller table and into this processor. An automatic advance 12", drop the saw, retract the saw, repeat. The cut wood went up the conveyor into his small dump truck. When it was full, $200 of random size green firewood ready to deliver.
I know everyone want DRY firewood, but there are folks smart enough to buy it 12 months ahead and dry it themselves, as long as it's cheaper.
#9
Sawmills and Milling / Re: 1989 LT40 hydraulic Valve ...
Last post by Ben Cut-wright - Today at 01:26:14 AMThe lever springs are prone to break at the severe bends where the stress is focused They just fatigue, don't give a warning. If these haven't been replaced in one while this would have been the best time.
The hydraulic "nut" below the valve holds the valve onto an adapter that screws into the manifold. "turned it out less than a 1/4 turn" would mean you didn't break the nut loose to rotate the valve? The threaded portion of that fitting which screws into the manifold is better left alone. If you did turn it, be sure it doesn't begin to leak. I prefer to tighten the nut enough to hold the valve secure enough to connect the plumbing. Then finish by tightening the nut properly.
The other control valve mounting nuts you describe as rounded off could have been easily *replaced while you had the entire assembly removed. As I mentioned previously, those are prone to freeze and then get rounded off when someone tries to remove them. That nut is part of a four piece assembly. When the nut is over-tightened onto the bottom piece it deforms the sealing ring. That wedges the nut and is often impossible to remove. Cutting the nut is the easiest method I've found, and least likely to do damage. This will permit the valves to be readily removed at a later date instead of requiring a lengthy downtime.
Where did you get the capacitor specifications? The purpose of that capacitor is to keep the high (er) voltage spark from the valve switch opening from going back into the wiring. That's why it's good to check all of them.
Might have missed you saying, did you check the brushes in the pump motor while it was off the mill?
The hydraulic "nut" below the valve holds the valve onto an adapter that screws into the manifold. "turned it out less than a 1/4 turn" would mean you didn't break the nut loose to rotate the valve? The threaded portion of that fitting which screws into the manifold is better left alone. If you did turn it, be sure it doesn't begin to leak. I prefer to tighten the nut enough to hold the valve secure enough to connect the plumbing. Then finish by tightening the nut properly.
The other control valve mounting nuts you describe as rounded off could have been easily *replaced while you had the entire assembly removed. As I mentioned previously, those are prone to freeze and then get rounded off when someone tries to remove them. That nut is part of a four piece assembly. When the nut is over-tightened onto the bottom piece it deforms the sealing ring. That wedges the nut and is often impossible to remove. Cutting the nut is the easiest method I've found, and least likely to do damage. This will permit the valves to be readily removed at a later date instead of requiring a lengthy downtime.
Where did you get the capacitor specifications? The purpose of that capacitor is to keep the high (er) voltage spark from the valve switch opening from going back into the wiring. That's why it's good to check all of them.
Might have missed you saying, did you check the brushes in the pump motor while it was off the mill?
#10
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by fluidpowerpro - Today at 01:05:15 AMWhat I'm imagining is a feed system that clamps the log like a wood chipper. It feeds the log past a stump grinder wheel that sweeps across the top of the log, shaving it down. The log would likely have to move back and forth multiple times depending on how much hp you threw at it.
