Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods (Read 364174 times)

Bibbyman · « **Reply #20 on:** July 28, 2004, 06:56:36 AM »

Talk about removing axles from under Wood-Mizer mills.

There are a number of Wood-Mizer owners who have evolved from mobile sawing to stationary setups. Removing the axle assembly is pretty straight forward as it’s just held on by 4 bolts.

BUT BEFORE YOU DO…. Get with Wood-Mizer on their recommendations of how to set up a stationary WM without the axle assembly. The axle and tires on a mobile mill act as outriggers to prevent the mill from tipping over in case a large log hit the backstop too hard, etc.

The support posts on stationary mills are different than mobile units. They have plates with holes in them for bolting the mill to the floor. The posts on a mobile unit could be used if plates are welded on and proper anchorage is done.

Link to earlier post showing how we set up stationary Wood-Mizer mill.

VA-Sawyer · « **Reply #21 on:** July 28, 2004, 11:21:54 AM »

I've made a number of mods to my mill since I got it. I have added the second battery as mentioned by Dr. Buck. I've also put on a tach and oil pressure guage. I've added a couple of micro switches on the clutch handle. One controls the water flow and the other keeps the engine from starting with the clutch engaged. I have it wired now so that the FWD/REV switch has to be in FWD and the clutch has to be engaged to get water on the blade. I use about half the water I used to use before the mod. I've also added 6 marker lights to the sides and backup lights on the back. That mill has had a few close calls while being pulled at night. I guess it was hard for other drivers to see it from the side. Shouldn't be a problem anymore. Speaking of lights, I added a couple of spotlights so I can saw in the evenings during the wintertime.
Right now my mill is stuck in the woods at a customers site. With all the rain we have been having lately, my next mod might be a set of pontoon floats !
I will post some photos once I get it back home and cleaned up.
VA-Sawyer

Bibbyman · « **Reply #22 on:** July 28, 2004, 11:39:51 AM »

Maybe you need to add 4WD?

Tom · « **Reply #23 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:32:21 PM »

One easy thing to do is add lights to the mill trailer. All the lights are for the benefit of the following traffic. If you put a drop off of your running lights to a small indicator light, or even white, downturned spotlight, next to the tires, you can see where they are when you are turning a tight corner at night. A small indicator on either side of the head of the mill and a couple on the top of the head Posts will help you feel more comfortable too. Just some little lights to help you determine where everything is at night.

Gilman · « **Reply #24 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:38:22 PM »

Here's a simple one. After tearing off the original tube within five hours of use I decided it needed to be improved slightly. I added a spring to keep the Lubemizer tube always pulled away from the log.

Here the guide is fully extended. The lube tube is now a blue tube after replacement.

Here is the guide fully retracted and the hose stays away from the log.

Tom · « **Reply #25 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:40:52 PM »

Here is one I did to my Woodmizer that has been a good one.

Problem: When the hydraulic solenoid sticks (it will when it begins to go bad) the hydraulic pump runs every time that the power button reaches the power strip. Because of the noise and attention to other things, it is easy to miss. The pump runs and bypasses the valves which are closed. That's a lot of wear and tear.

I wired a small light on the output side of the solenoid so that it lit when the pump was running. I mounted the light on the front of the hydraulic box and out of the way of damage.

Now, if my solenoid is going bad, I can see it. If I know it is going bad and it is running the pump all of the time, it reminds me

Oh! Sometimes the centering springs on the handle break and cause the pump to run also. It's piece of mind to know what is going on by looking at the light.

Tom · « **Reply #26 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:43:50 PM »

Putting a glass sediment bowl in the fuel line has been a good move too. I think everyone should have one. It helps the filter last longer and keeps condensate water from getting from the fuel tank to the carburator or fouling the filter. If you put in the open where you can see it all of the time, it is really handy.

Tom · « **Reply #27 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:46:05 PM »

There are all kinds of things sticking out of the frame of a sawmill that will hurt your leg or tear your pants. The one that almost always gets me is the "all-thread" on the end of the travel chain on a Woodmizer. I cut a piece of old garden hose and stuck it on there to save my legs as I walked by.

Tom · « **Reply #28 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:50:13 PM »

On the back of the loader of a Woodmizer, the hoses enter the Ram. The fitting is solid tube and is next to the ground where it will break if it comes into contact with a scrap of wood, or the loader digs a hole. When mine broke, I replaced it with two end fittings stuck into a piece of hydraulic hose that was as short as I could get it. There is about 1.5 to 3 inches of hose between the fittings. It gives the fittings just enough movement that they don't break if something gets under them.

Tom · « **Reply #29 on:** July 28, 2004, 12:59:41 PM »

Here is something that I always wished that I had done and didn't.

I wished that I had put a sleeve on the loader side of the beam on my Woodmizer (out of the way) to hang the fenders. Many times I have driven off without them and had to go back. Finding a place to put them is always a hassle.

If they were hung on the beam of the mill, they wouldn't get left and they would also create a small worktable to set wrenches, etc. on when working on the mill.

A small ammunition box bolted or tacked to the diagonals of the mill will keep those pertinent wrenches on hand too. There are only 3 or 4 that are needed. You could keep a few spare nuts and bolts in there too. Keeps you from having to always go back to the truck. Put one on the front and one on the back of the mill. Use one big enough to get your hand into though.

A few first aid items stuck in there might be a pretty good idea too.

And while you are hanging stuff on the mill......don't forget the coffee cup holder.

Tom · « **Reply #30 on:** July 28, 2004, 01:34:50 PM »

Above the throat of a woodmizer, behind that door that you open to change blades, is mounted a bearing. That bearings purpose is to dampen the vibration of the blade between the wheels on the top side. It's a bad place for bearings. Hardwoods and water soon cause it to seize. I replaced mine in the woods one day with a block of oak that I drilled a hole through. Tilt it a little so that the corner is within 1/8th of the blade and tighten the nut. When it wears, loosen the nut, turn it closer to the blade and tighten the nut again. It lasts a really long time.

Tom · « **Reply #31 on:** July 28, 2004, 01:37:46 PM »

Woodmizer owners

Do you need to make a scale to do a special one-time job? turn the moveable scale over and make your marks on it with marker. Something you can clean off with alcohol, rust reaper or the like. It's pretty handy to have the blank piece of aluminum handy like that.

Tom · « **Reply #32 on:** July 28, 2004, 01:53:36 PM »

Hit a Nail?

Keep a fine bastard file, one witha round edge if you can......a chain saw file is next best.

The blade mounted between the wheels makes a pretty good jig. Run the head of the mill to the end of the mill where you can get to the blade easily and put it at a good working height.

Knock the metal from the face of the tooth where the nail welded itself to the blade. Straighten any obviously bent teeth, fille the backs of those that have lost the very tip to try to sharpen it a little. Don't worry about those that are broken completely off as long as the gaps created are no more than 3 or 4 teeth in one place. (try not to disfigure the gullet)

The blade might get you through the rest of the log. A customer will appreciate your making the blade go as far as you can when he's being charged for the blade.

Tom · « **Reply #33 on:** July 28, 2004, 02:03:37 PM »

Have you ever gotten your mill trapped at a site with wood and slabs around it where you can't get out and you want to move it to the side?

What you need is a Moon Cap. One of those old timey hub caps that is smooth and dish shaped. Put it under the front leg, or jack of the mill, close to the coupler. It will provide a smooth skid with turned up edges that will allow you to pull your mill into the open, with rope or chain, where you can hook the truck to it.

You can use a sheet of plywood or sheet metal too, as long as there is a "stop" in the middle for the jack and the edges get turned up so that it doesn't dig in.

In mud or soft dirt, a sled like this works better than a wheel.

Tom · « **Reply #34 on:** July 28, 2004, 02:07:55 PM »

One of the least maintained things on a portable mill ends up being the wheel bearings. Install "buddy bearings" and it will give you more piece of mind on the road.

......and a spare tire isn't a bad idea either.

slowzuki · « **Reply #35 on:** July 30, 2004, 11:20:08 AM »

I've been trying to think of a nice waterproof container to store spare blades in that can be attached to the mill, anyone have slick solutions?

VA-Sawyer · « **Reply #36 on:** July 31, 2004, 06:32:57 PM »

I've been working on that same issue for 6 months now and still don't have anything for storing blades on the mill. If you get a good idea for it , you sure will be my hero.

VA-Sawyer

FeltzE · « **Reply #37 on:** August 02, 2004, 07:54:14 PM »

I added a licence plate light just above the scale index for when I've been stuck finishing the last log at sunset.

I clipped a utility light to the log side post at the top of the mill to illuminate the log (same reason as above... not to facilitate night sawing just finishing up)

I added an electric fuel pump to my wisconson in the same location as listed earlier. I have had some problems with the engine driven pump this fixed that.

The trailer brake battery box has been removed. (by inadvertant force) It was poorly mounted outside the pump box. I belive the new mills have fixed this problem.

I almost forgot I have most carefully trimmed some steel off of the clamp unit and the first adjustable stop as well.

Eric

Tom · « **Reply #38 on:** August 05, 2004, 11:18:37 AM »

VA-Sawyer, Some of the smaller blades will fit into a 55 gal drum. use one with a removable lid that clamps on.

Eric, That's a good discovery, I have removed some excess weight from my log dogs too. The best time to do it is when you are "testing" blades.

Gilman · « **Reply #39 on:** August 05, 2004, 11:40:53 AM »

Has anyone used the original engine alternator (the one that isn't used) on their WM for lighting?

Forestry ForumSponsored by:

Author Topic: Useful sawmill mods (Read 364174 times)

Forestry Forum
Sponsored by: