iDRY Vacuum Kilns

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Ianab, newoodguy78, WV_hillbilly, kanoak

Recent posts

#1
The Outdoor Board / Re: DAM BEAR!
Last post by newoodguy78 - Today at 12:14:14 AM
Man I was feeling a bit foolish for suggesting that little glimpse was a bear after seeing this thread. That sure is a cute little bugger.
The way she came walking along the dam munching on grass reminded me of a cow
#2
Forestry and Logging / Re: Need tractor help please
Last post by newoodguy78 - Yesterday at 11:46:57 PM
Bruno what was your reason for swapping the fuel filter to begin with? Routine maintenance? or was it acting up prior to changing? Trying pinpoint the problem is all.
Not familiar with that particular model but wondering if there's an electric fuel pump in the system that's gotten a little wimpy on you. Another possibility is sometimes there's a filter/screen in the tank that's part of the fuel shutoff. Typically the tank needs to be drained and the shutoff threads out to access this.
Ran into this on one of mine. Tractor would idle fine put it under load and it just couldn't suck enough fuel to do its thing.
#3
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Did something dumb today.
Last post by Nebraska - Yesterday at 10:55:43 PM
Heading to the cabin this weekend ,  I remembered to grab the Labrador's meds of the counter before I left. Got 14 miles down the road before the dog owner remembered his..... ffcool
#4
I finished the window sash. I had to remake one of them since it was out of square so that took awhile. On to the gutters and doors.

#5
Forestry and Logging / Re: Need tractor help please
Last post by rusticretreater - Yesterday at 10:36:01 PM
It sounds to me like low fuel pressure and your problems did start after changing the fuel filter. 

Where the fuel line meets the fuel injector pump, there should be a bolt for bleeding the line.  Turn the key to the on position, loosen the bolt a bit and you should have fuel pressure from your pump pushing the fuel out.

If the air has gotten past the injector pump into the injector lines, start the tractor and loosen the injector fuel line capnut to let the fuel pressure push the air out of the line.  The capnut should be something like 17mm.  Start with the longest metal line first.

#6
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Band blade drag sharpener
Last post by barbender - Yesterday at 10:35:28 PM
That unit is too cool!
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Band blade drag sharpener
Last post by Magicman - Yesterday at 10:25:39 PM
Are you sure that your table is strong enough to support your sharpener??  ffcheesy
#8
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by Old Greenhorn - Yesterday at 10:02:12 PM
Where I cut, the deal with the landowner is that all stumps will be low enough for a machine to drive over them. Now at worst case that means a skidder or a tracked machine, but in reality, we try to make them low enough for UTVs. SO doing a Humboldt is rarely applicable. Although I some times have to cut high in order to avoid bad wood and have a solid hinge. I then trim off at ground level. I will Humboldt those. But I don't cut a lot of large trees. As far as wasted wood goes, in realty most of that notch cut is removed when opening a log up and taking off the sapwood. But I get it for commercial mills. They want square butts.
 As Skeans said, on steep ground, I prefer to use it if I am felling down hill, it actually gives me the lowest stump I can get with a square butt. But I will say, I do so few of them that my skill in lining up my cuts for the upside down notch are not quite ready for prime time. I get some overcuts and that drives me crazy. I just need more practice at it.
 SO I Humboldt when I can or it applies, and conventional for everything else. I've always thought the Humboldt was designed for the PNW folks who have to take stumps higher because of the steep ground and big stump flares, or for cutting off of spring boards. For those trees, it seems the only way to go.
#9
Forestry and Logging / Re: Need tractor help please
Last post by barbender - Yesterday at 09:59:32 PM
If there is a manual primer on the fuel system, it can often indicate issues on the supply side. For instance, if you have a restriction, usually when you depress the primer it won't spring back. If you have an air leak, it will spring back but won't get firm no matter how much you pump it.
#10
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Band blade drag sharpener
Last post by RetiredTech - Yesterday at 09:58:55 PM
We had lots of rain the last few days. I took the time to finish the blade sharpener. Heres a few more photos. I made the blade support arms out of some beetle killed pine I cut off the place. I wanted to be able to put the support arms on and off without any tools so I came up with the idea of using some gate latches. There's one on each side of the sharpener and another one on the rear arm that keeps it from folding in use. Actually, If I had put the hinge on the other side of the back arm I may not have needed the third latch, but I didn't think about it until after I had it all put together.
I cut some small sections of 3/8" poly pipe for the band guides and put some sections of plastic milk jug under them for the blade to slide on so the blade won't cut into the arms. The main arm sits flat on the table behind the sharpener then the gate latches hold it in place. When it's not in use the rear arm folds flat against the main arm for storage.
  Now I need to revisit the PineyWoods setter page and see if I can mod one up..






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