rebuilding Clark torque converter

[rockwall]

I think this is a good time to rebuild the converter in my ranger 664. What is the easiest way to get it out of the machine? Any tips would be appreciated and any advice on other stuff I should do once the converter is out. Thanks

[treeslayer2003]

iv done it, its not hard. removal is straight forward, maybe mark the lines. almost plan on a new drive gear, last one i did was 400 bucks......use new bolts and lock tite.
there is not much in there other than seals for soft parts.......why do you think it needs rebuilt? if its just a couple seals, thats all i would buy. the kit is pricey......mine didn't need rebuilt.......my problem was simply engine tune.

what do you need? i have some out if you need pics.

[rockwall]

It is leaking quite a bit from the drain plug hole , sometimes almost a stream. I am assuming the seals are worn. When you say drive gear is that the fiber gear? Pics would be good. 

[treeslayer2003]

yes, the fiber gear. i have the parts manual around here some where.......i'll try and locate that for ya tomorrow.

[hacknchop]

I have a 662 are they not almost same? My winch started giving me trouble just in the last few months.

[kiko]

Is the torque convertor housing seep rat from trans or are they connected on your 664?

[treeslayer2003]

Is the torque convertor housing seep rat from trans or are they connected on your 664?

i believe his is like mine, mine is divorced.

i'm not sure on a 662, never seen one. pics?

[hacknchop]

I would need to shine her up first! I worked with 664 quite a bit the 662 is older looks the same has 353 but enough about mine im interested in Rockwall's machine and info on the converter which may just be the same as mine.

[rockwall]

Torque converter connected to tranny 

 

[treeslayer2003]

Torque converter connected to tranny 

 

nope, that shaft connects your converter to the trans

[rockwall]

That's what I meant and I had that in my first post but then I had a hard time posting the photo so I left out "connected to tranny with shaft". I finally figured out the posting issue. So the converter is divorced from tranny.

[treeslayer2003]

well, i can't seem to scan or down load a photo for you Rockwall...............i'll get the Mrs. to help out when she gets home.

[rockwall]

Thanks, I had quite a time this morning trying to post photo.

[oldseabee]

What is S/N of your 664, most had C272 convertor, but some few had C273. Difference is the diameter of the Impeller ahd Turbine, 12 inch VS. 13 inch. 662 had C272 convertor. Also with Clark winch clutch pressure is 240/280 PSI, with Gearmatic winch pressure is 180/220 PSI. Pressure is controlled by clutch pressure regulator valve mounted on the convertor.

[rockwall]

My serial number is 514F3179. Any tips to taking the converter out?

[nhlogga]

My serial number is 514F3179. Any tips to taking the converter out?

Pull engine. Convertor comes out with it. That's how I would get the converter out. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[rockwall]

A mechanic over here said he takes the canopy and dash off and pulls converter that way. Another Clark ranger owner says he pulls the motor and gets at converter that way. What do you think?

[treeslayer2003]

i always pull the canopy and dash.........i think its easier. sorry rockwall, i still can't do nuthin with pics........i think i may have broked sumthin.

[rockwall]

Thanks treeslayer it's probably " dust in the lines"!

[oldseabee]

Your machine should have the C272 convertor. Firewall and canopy probably easier to get it out, but with engine on the floor mounting the convertor will be easier. your choice. With engine out it's a chance to check the frame and cradle pins and do any repairs needed.

[treeslayer2003]

seabee, can the pressure governor be adjusted or must the whole unit be replaced with the higher pressure one?

[NS logging]

i think pulling engine is quicker than dash/canopy to get to torque converter.  I have 666s with cummins engines, but it only takes three hours to get an engine out of the frame (and I am not a good mechanic)

[oldseabee]

There is no adjustment to the pressure regulating valve, just a matter of changing the springs inside and replacing the o rings. Should be able to order correct springs from Alliedsystems.com, they also have parts manuals on line for free download. Which winch do you have. Gearmatic only requires the 180/220 PSI, The Clark winch requires the 240/280 PSI to operate the freespool system.

[treeslayer2003]

both of mine have the big clark. i know the 666 came with it, but it only holds 200 all the time. you got me thinkin i need to up the pressure.
also, perhaps the spring gets weak over time?

[treeslayer2003]

 

 
success

[rockwall]

You did it! Thanks

[treeslayer2003]

maybe you can blow it up.........i have all the numbers as well but they are the old numbers. still, some times it helps to see it all.

[rockwall]

I got looking at my radiator and it could use some work so I think I will pull that out and then pull the motor with converter attached so I can rebuild the converter and put in new fiber gear. Does the canopy need to come off to get the radiator out? Or what is the best way to get radiator out?

[rick f]

Rockwall, I know the radiator will come out without taking the front off but I think to pull the motor you will have to take the nose piece off. the canopy can stay on , at least it did for my buddy's.

[treeslayer2003]

take the nose section off, its only four bolts and makes it much easier.

[rockwall]

Thanks guys

[rockwall]

Thanks to all who replied with help. I successfully pulled the 353 and torque converter out of my clark ranger. I couldn't have done it without your help.

[rick f]

Rockwall how about some pictures of the torque converter rebuild as you go throught it?

[rockwall]

Well I finally got the motor and torque converter back in the skidder. While it was out I got to do all kinds of maintenance to the old girl, new hoses, gauges and hoed out four boxes of crud from under the motor. Unfortunately, while putting it back in we broke a piece of the port on the oil cooler. I'd really like to put the machine all back together without taking the oil cooler out. Do you have any suggestions for making that broken port work. There is a half inch left on the port with the broken side. Hopefully the photo shows it clearly.   

                                                                                                                                                

[North River Energy]

Maybe bond a sleeve into the bore, then 'glue' in the broken chunk(s) using the sleeve as a backer?

[rockwall]

What would you recommend for a sleeve?

[North River Energy]

How close is that ID to the OD of a piece of common copper pipe?

[treeslayer2003]

dang it! that sucs rockwall.........that oil cooler is a common leak on these, it may not be a bad idea to pull it and regasket. if you do, pressure test the cooler while its out with air and a bucket of water.

[rockwall]

The ID is 1 and 9/16.

[North River Energy]

If you were closer, I'd chuck a chunk of 1-1/4 black water pipe in the lathe and turn one for you. (OD measures just proud of 1-5/8).

Maybe head over to your nearest hardware outlet with a measuring device and see if you can find something close? Doesn't have to be metal, just needs to fit, stick to JB Weld or similar, and deal with the heat/ coolant.

Or, you can pull the assembly, and braze it back together.

[rockwall]

Thanks North River!

[Holmes]

  An 1 1/4 " copper coupling is just a fraction over 11/2 inch.  That would fit in with JB weld

[rockwall]

Thanks Holmes! I slipped a 1 1/4 copper union in the port and it seems a little loose. I might want a tighter fit.

[Holmes]

   11/2" tubular brass pipe [ kitchen sink drain pipe under the basket strainer ] is about 1/32" bigger.  Thats as close as I can get unless you lathe down to size a piece of 11/4" steel pipe.

[rockwall]

Thanks again for your thoughts and time.

[rockwall]

Thanks to all the help from you guys I fired up the 664 yesterday. I needed all the help I could get and by searching and reading old posts I was able to get her going again. While I had it apart I had a great mechanic put a seal kit in the torque converter, a new fiber gear, rebuilt the TC pressure relief valve and a new rear main seal. I also got to clean and fix up the radiator which needed it badly. It didn't want to turn over at first but I found a loose nut from the starter case to solenoid, tightened that up and she fired up after getting all the air out of the lines. It was really helpful to have this forum to come to. I will try and post some photos.

[rockwall]

Some photos

  

  

  

  

 

[krusty]

I know this is an old thread but I have a C272 in an old Michigan loader I was going to take out to the woods. I believe the torque converter needs love. How hard it is to put new seals and the fiber disk in? Anyone have contact info for oldseabee as I have heard he is the guru. My machine will drive fine pushing no load but as soon as it encounters a load to scoop up, the output of the torque converter stops spinning.