Processor Build, Home Made Firewood Processor

[Higgo]

Good point on the oil coolers. I'll begin my hunt for one again! anyone have a good suggestion for surface area/port sizes or one that works well on their machine? I've found some cheap industrial ones on ebay but they still look small... the port size were around 32mm (more probably 1 1/4") I don't think the guy knew too much about the products he was selling. I guess I need to find some heuristic formulas for oil cooler size/pumped oil volume? Some machines I worked on used 'offline oilcooling/filtration' to save energy. Only pumped the oil to the cooler when needed and therefore only filtered when needed. Seemed to work pretty well. The oil was so clean that it lasted around 5 years between changes... and these machines ran 24/7. I was thinking about using a similar principle using a diesel transfer pump... small, cheap and not power robbing. Anyone used a similar setup? Probably overkill.
Thanks dave_dj1! Getting there slowly... only another 1000 hrs of work and I might be done!

[North River Energy]

Go big on the cooler ports if possible. You can always bush them down. 1-1/4 should be more than adequate. 
My cooler is maybe 16"x16" with 1" ports, and it does the job, though a better fan would help. 
And that's with a circle saw, which makes a lot of heat.
I'd continue to build out the machine to the 'proof of concept stage' without the cooler (if one proves elusive), but provide for the later addition.  Your tank has the optimum shape for passive heat loss anyway, and if you minimize the flow restrictions in the rest of the system, you might be fine for the short term and short duration use.

[blackfoot griz]

I agree with NE. I would try it without a cooler and watch the fluid temps.  If they are getting too high, you can add a cooler.  If you will be running the machine in cold weather, I would suggest a cooler with a thermo switch so that the fan on the cooler only kicks on when the hydro fluid hits a certain temp. If it is cold out you may not want the cooler/fan operating.

I don't have a cooler on my processor and even running the thing as hard as possible on a HOT day, the hydro fluid has only gotten up to 150.

Thanks

[Higgo]

Good points. Blackfoot, I think my machine will have a similar capacity re-oil flow to yours? I think I read somewhere you have around 50gpm capacity?  I'll continue without the oil cooler at the moment and try running the machine without one and see what temps the oil reaches. The cooler I was talking about earlier is pretty cheap so if I can't find a cooler secondhand I can always just buy it new. It's not looking like I'll be able to do any work on the machine for at least another 2 weeks at the moment... just when I was making some good headway!

[Higgo]

I forgot to put a photo up of the saw mount! It's a little hard to see and not quite finished but its in the spot it will stay. I've got to add a little bracing around the saw base plate mount but overall its pretty strong anyway.... might try and incorporate an area to run some hoses for the saw neatly within the base mount. I'll post another photo when I'm next working on the machine because I slightly altered the left side bearing mount. Any ideas/suggestions feel free to post them!

[North River Energy]

Griz,
You've had your machine up and running for a few years?  Have you made any additional modifications in that time, or are there things you wish you had done differently?

[blackfoot griz]

NER,
I guess I got pretty lucky when building my processor. I had some help from FF members and some local folks in the configuration. From the first time I fired it up to now, the only thing I changed was that I added a flow control on the detent valve for the conveyor.  It ran way to fast. Now, I can slow it down and run it just fast enough that the split wood doesn't build up.

The one thing that really surprises me is the chain oiler I threw together.  I used a radiator overflow tank. It holds about 1/2 gallon. From there, the bar oil goes to a napa fuel sending pump. I added a flow control valve after the pump.  On the 1"shaft that the saw is mounted on, I mounted a napa pickup "cablight door switch" and welded a tab on the shaft.  When the saw is all the way up the tab hits the switch and cuts the electrical flow off to the pump. This is handy when you get sidetracked and don't need the bar oil to flow.

The whole oiler system cost about 70 bucks and I was sure there were going to be problems. At the time, I got in a big hurry because my dad was terminally ill and he really wanted to see the processor work so I winged it on the oiler. To my surprise, this setup has worked amazingly well. It goes from no oil to way too much. I have even pushed "summer" bar oil through it when it was 0 degrees out and it works fine.

Considering I am only running a 38 hp Kohler @ 2400 rmp, it works really well. Now, I find that I spend much more time dealing with the split wood than running the machine!

[North River Energy]

^Thanks.

Now, I find that I spend much more time dealing with the split wood than running the machine!

Most days I figure the material handling at either end is more crucial than the machine in the middle.

Have the same NAPA/Facet pump on several machines for several years.   No complaints so far.

Any idea on your fuel/hr/cd?

[blackfoot griz]

It takes 15 minutes or less to fill an 8'/full sized pickup box so I'd say that the processor is capable of producing  2 cord/hour +/-.

I stack my firewood on pallets and it takes 1/2 hour or so to move the split stuff from the pickup to the pallet. Working by myself, I have processed 10-4x4x4' high pallets in a day which = about 5 cords processed and stacked. With each passing year, this will likely drop. Fuel consumption?... I run a pickup load then shut it down while stacking. 10 gallons of gas will easily go all day, but the processor is only running less than half the time.

The stacking part is the killer in my situation.  I have been considering making some bags for the pallets. This would be a lot faster, but, you end up using a lot more pallets for the same volume of wood which takes up more space and makes more trips during the burning season. I haven't come up with the perfect solution as I don't think there is one  ???

[Higgo]

I can see how dealing with the split wood would take more time than actually processing the stuff in the first place! I plan to deal with it in 'bulk' using front end loader bucket or a small excavator to handle the raw logs and the split wood. One operator running the machine and one operator driving the loader. We don't generally handle wood here where we need to stack it. Maybe you could look into 'bulka bags'? We use them for fertiliser and seed grain but they're pretty tough and might be good for your handling needs. One bag can hold 1 ton of material... So probably about 600kg of wood... and you can move them with a forklift or loader with the lifting eyes! I like the idea of the flow control for the conveyor. I have an old flow regulator so I'll try and incorporate that idea into my build.
Another question... my engine doesn't have a governor fitted because its a truck motor. Has anyone developed or setup a governor system on their processor? I've toyed with the idea of using an aftermarket cruise control kit but I'm curious too see what other people have done and what their thoughts are...

[dave_dj1]

The last processor I looked over was a Timberwolf with a deutz 3 cyl diesel and all he had was a throttle cable that you pulled out and locked. I have heard they sell electric governors but have no experience with them.
good luck,
dave

[North River Energy]

BGriz,
I added an hour meter to the panel as an afterthought, and have found it to be very helpful in determining costs, throughput etc.
Can't help much on your stacking quandary, as I leave that up to the end user(s).


If the Deutz was intended as a stationary, the governor is incorporated into the injection system, with the throttle cable setting the baseline rpm.
Higgo, if your motor type has use as an off the road power plant, the simplest option would be to locate the appropriate original equipment governor?
The cruise control idea sounds interesting.  How do you propose to measure speed and move the throttle?
(The cruise configurations I'm familiar with use vacuum/dashpots.)

I'm going to try a variant of this hydraulic throttle control on my 'new' big splitter.


 


 



The donor unit in its current application. (Not really needed on this truck).

 


And a constant speed belt drive governor.  Not very adjustable, more or less on or off.


 

[Higgo]

I have tried to find the OE governor but have had no luck so far. I might try and contact Mazda and see what they think. From memory even the parts manual doesn't show much. The cruise control kit does work like you say. I would have to retrofit the diaphragm onto my injector pump. That belt drive governor looks interesting... what did it come off?

I like the idea of a hydraulic governor. On my machine I intend to eventually have the whole thing 'driven' by PLC. I could probably use the plc to govern the engine with a secondhand cruise control servo from any vehicle. To be honest I will probably go down this route because the PLC is capable of doing it and will already be supervising other functions (that's if I can't find an OE governor). Thanks for the reply NRE. very interesting ideas! The hydraulic governor is something different I hadn't considered before! The cheap aftermarket electronic cruise controls setups can be had for around $200 so I thought that was an interesting option. How much is a hydraulic governor setup worth?

[North River Energy]

The belt drive was original to my processor with the original gas motor.  That type was apparently common to Jeep vehicles for use around the farm way back when. (I'll get the name off the data tag and you can find some history).  The way it was rigged (not my doing), the engine would start full throttle, and shut down full throttle, with nothing in between.

I don't know that you'd be able to buy a new hydro-throttle. That schematic is dated 1967, when one might power a log truck off either gas or diesel. 
From the look of things, it would be easy enough to make your own. 

If you're aces with the electrics, you could pick up the rpm from the alternator (diesel rated), translate the signal to something useful, and send that to a small stepper motor to push/pull the throttle linkage.

Some of the old gas-drive mills controlled speed with something like a license plate swinging in front of the radiator fan airflow. A variant of the fly-ball principle.

You will probably have enough HP/torque on tap that you can run at a set rpm just a bit above idle. 
At least for the trial runs. 
And then you want to figure out how to save fuel and noise...

[Higgo]

Thanks! Some very interesting things to think about! I think I've seen something like the licence plate idea on another old machine somewhere... can't remember where though! I've been making a bit of a plan up for when I can work on the machine next. I'm away from it at the moment because the shed where its kept is not near my home.

Another idea for everyone to think about...
I've already built a large splitter that I intended to mount under the front so the wood could fall into the splitter chamber however I'm thinking I might leave it separate for a while once I get it built. I think I may be better off building a smaller splittter specifically for the processor and leave my nice larger one for conventional splitting. I'll try and put some pics of the splitter up next time I'm at the farm. I think it would make a nice 3pl tractor splitter or even a towed splitter compare to shoving it under the front of the machine. It's built from 12" C section welded back to back and has about 40" of stroke... too much for a processor but good for big rounds of redgum. I built it before my processor construction started and I originally intended my processor to be a gas chainsaw/conveyor splitter setup... Its not quite finished (needs the wedge made up).

I guess everyone knows how ideas evolve! :D

[Higgo]

I know everyone has different opinions on this but.... what sort of splitter wedge material should I go for? I'm leaning toward mild steel at the moment... seems a lot of people just use mild steel and it works for them. Feel free to post suggestions and pictures of your splitter wedges. I think my wedge will be an adjustable 1/2 to 1/4 split.

[Higgo]

Finally got a chance to do some more work on the machine over the weekend! Cleaned and primed the underside of all my in-feed conveyor panels with grey primer before welding them in. I also primed the underside of the square tube where the panels sit flush on the tube. I've noticed a lot of manufacturers of other machines do a similar thing. This should hopefully slow down the advent of rust... although I realise its inevitable in a design such as this where the panel is sandwiched against the square tube. I think i'll try and seal the panels with some type of silicon as an added deterrent to moisture penetrating the seam. I also welded the chain guide in place onto the spine of the machine. I used 12mmx12mm square stock and welded at 150mm intervals. The panels are welded at 100mm intervals because they are thinner material and I felt it would distribute the shock loads better. I haven't welded the underside of the panels because I think it would make it very difficult to replace the panels at a later date... however I am tempted to weld the panels on the underside! How are everyone elses machine constructed in regard to the in-feed conveyors? panels welded underneath? I've also taken a lot of photos of the valves and motors I have. I haven't posted them up here because In not sure if i'll be using them yet. It's mostly just left over components form previous jobs.







 

  

  

  

[North River Energy]

Regarding wedge material, all three of my splitters have common steel.  So far it's not a problem, but you might want to design your wedge such that you could easily change it out if you feel the need for a re-work.

As to the infeed, mine has two large pitch chains (80+) running parallel on an oaken platform.  I'd prefer a roll case, but it's what I have at the moment, and the need to change that part of the machine is quite a ways down on the 'fix-it' list. 

I'll get a photo in a few days time.

[xalexjx]

have you designed the wedge setup yet? I have a built rite with a 4way on the bottom and 6 way on top all hydraulically controlled. I can post pics if you want.

[Higgo]

thanks for the replies! It would be great if you guys could post some pics. There's not many machines around here to borrow ideas from! If anyone could post some pics of their wedge design and maybe a vertical pic so I could determine the correct angle? there must be an angle that is 'best' suited to a splitter wedge and specific materials? I hope to make it a 2, 4, 6, 8 if possible. I haven't built the splitter I intend to use with this machine. The original splitter I built for it I think I will use as a stand alone unit... so I'm back to the drawing board for the splitter!

[Higgo]

I attached a couple of 'action shots' of me welding the conveyor side panels.

Anyone have any suggestions/photos regarding the design of a 2 4 6 8 wedge?? I'm trying to decide how to make it adjustable and multi-split all using the 'same wedge' like the commercial processors that use a cylinder/ 2 cylinders to adjust the wedge/s. Post some photos of your design if you want!!!   ;D

[TeaW]

I don't think there is any right answer to the question of splitting wedge design. It depends on the size of wood you have to split and the size of pieces you want to make. I had a friend that had a Multitech processor , he had 4, 6 and 8 way wedges. He liked the 4 way the best because he thought he had more control of the size and got less splinters.(he threw big stuff back through when he had to). Another operator that built a few processors would only us a star shaped wedge ( all pieces starting in center).
For myself the best size is 10" split 4 ways, but that means that a 20" log needs to be split into about 16 pieces. It is hard to have one wedge that will do it all, I guess you have to go with what will suit you.

[Higgo]

Thanks TeaW. I think I'll have to study Youtube for a few more hours and see what I can come up with! What thickness steel is your wedge made from? I'm thinking around 3/4"/20mm is what I'll try to construct mine from.

[Hilltop366]

Nice work on your processor build!

[North River Energy]

You've probably seen this one, but it's a variation on the multi-wedge theme.

http://youtu.be/M0FVh99ytIg

Go with a wedge configuration that best suits your feedstock, market demand, and hydraulic capacity.
(2 and 6 works well for me, but might not for you.)

Design for something interchangeable, to avoid 'welding yourself into a corner', so to speak.