Author Topic: Diggin it. Nope. Can't. (Read 12765 times)

Jeff · « **Reply #280 on:** January 23, 2023, 07:48:07 AM »

I'm supposed to avoid Tylenol due to my bout with pancreatitus in 2010

SwampDonkey · « **Reply #281 on:** January 23, 2023, 09:50:47 AM »

Yeah, well I can see why. At least from my limited understanding of digestion.

Jeff · « **Reply #282 on:** January 29, 2023, 01:31:30 PM »

The otherhead is ready for pick up, head bolts and assembly products should be here this week, and I have the engine compartment about ready.

I'll need to paint the head when I get it, then when I get an extra pair of hands, I'll start assembly. The belt tentioning system on this engine is a farce. I'll be redesigning that before getting it running.

Don P · « **Reply #283 on:** January 29, 2023, 01:38:11 PM »

I lost track, with these rockers is the geometry ok or was this because something is bottoming out?

Jeff · « **Reply #284 on:** January 29, 2023, 02:30:05 PM »

The problem seems like it came from the rocker arm stds not being torqued and coming loose. There is no sign of hammering or damage to the rockers or pushrods.

Jeff · « **Reply #285 on:** January 29, 2023, 07:32:25 PM »

Ill be glad to hear it run again.

Jeff · « **Reply #286 on:** February 03, 2023, 11:02:40 AM »

I got the other head back. They put a new spring in that one as well due to it being gooshy. My compression was fine on that cylinder before tear down, but the spring didnt make spec.

Any reassembly tips?

rusticretreater · « **Reply #287 on:** February 03, 2023, 12:45:38 PM »

Depending on how clean the interior of the engine looks, you might spray some kerosine into the block to wash out dirt, antifreeze and old oil. Look in the valley and see if there is any casting flash on openings that could be removed. 3M pad or similar to clean the block surface and the edges of the intake manifold. Don't forget the front and rear edges of the block where the intake manifold seals against the block.

Look closely at your head gaskets. You should see imbedded o-ring type material around holes for the water jacket and oil return. If not, put gasket sealer around these holes on the cylinder block and heads. Same for the intake manifold. Ensure the facing of the distributor opening is clean and free of old gasket material and the distributor mating surface is also clean.

Usually there are neoprene seals used to seal the ends of the intake manifold. Put a dab of gasket sealer at each end of the seal where it meets the cylinder head.

Assembly lube on the roller rockers/valve ends, push rods. They will be dry until the oil circulates.

Jeff · « **Reply #288 on:** February 03, 2023, 01:35:29 PM »

I've been seeing on line where they say the small block for intake manifold end seals are notorious leakers, and it appears this one was leaking. Ive seen where they say toss the cork end seals and use only the permatex ultra black liberally, set the manifold, the n give it some time to set before you torque it down. One of my front intake bolts was obviosly corroded.

Jeff · « **Reply #289 on:** February 03, 2023, 02:13:57 PM »

hacknchop · « **Reply #290 on:** February 03, 2023, 03:18:44 PM »

Can't wait to hear it roar. I've enjoyed watching you fix that engine,my brother had a Gran Torino with a 351 Cleveland it was scary fast. Is it possible to put Cleveland heads on a Windsor block or is that a different engine altogether? Pretty sure my other brother put Boss heads on a 302 in a mustang, heads came off an engine out of a wrecked police car.

Jeff · « **Reply #291 on:** February 03, 2023, 03:35:34 PM »

The cleveland is a completely different block and engine. Quickest way to tell is the top radiator house on a cleveland goes into the block, on a windsor, into the intake manifold.

rusticretreater · « **Reply #292 on:** February 04, 2023, 12:09:03 AM »

Some bolts go into the water jacket and end up corroded like that. The bolt doesn't look in too bad of shape. As long as the needed threads are in good shape, it looks reusable.

Cork does deteriorate over time. Silicone sealant that doesn't turn hard is a good option. The only problem with the silicone stuff is that it squishes out making an unsightly line so you might want to use a putty knife or something to remove the excess while you can. It can get pretty messy if you're not careful. Or use a razor blade after it dries. Black silicone on a blue engine will stand out a bit.