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JJ, KenMac, Magicman, beenthere, OntarioAl, TimW, doc henderson, Resonator, chainsaw_louie, barbender, jeeper9574, Mooseherder, blackhawk, upnut
JJ, KenMac, Magicman, beenthere, OntarioAl, TimW, doc henderson, Resonator, chainsaw_louie, barbender, jeeper9574, Mooseherder, blackhawk, upnut
Recent posts
#81
Chainsaws / Husky 562XP Timing Issue!
Last post by Sprinter - Yesterday at 02:41:54 PMYears ago I had a cast in flywheel key that disintegrated. I fixed it by filing out the remains of the key and fitted in a bit of copper wire to locate the flywheel and keep timing. Worked okay!
Then a couple of years ago it refused to start. I can't remember exactly how it came about.
Yesterday, I pulled it out again. Compression and spark okay, fuel as well. So I started worrying about timing. So, I pulled the flywheel and found the magnets off maybe a 1/4 turn at top dead center, key was still in place. Checked other running saws to see where it should be.
Ended up setting the flywheel without the key and set the timing so the magnets were just leaving the coil at TDC. Now it runs but not well.
My question is, how could this happen and how do I find the right timing spot. Runs but I don't want to ruin it.
Hopefully someone can give me a clue!
If the saw fires when the magnets pass the iron core of the coil then my timing is about 28 degrees before TDC.
Then a couple of years ago it refused to start. I can't remember exactly how it came about.
Yesterday, I pulled it out again. Compression and spark okay, fuel as well. So I started worrying about timing. So, I pulled the flywheel and found the magnets off maybe a 1/4 turn at top dead center, key was still in place. Checked other running saws to see where it should be.
Ended up setting the flywheel without the key and set the timing so the magnets were just leaving the coil at TDC. Now it runs but not well.
My question is, how could this happen and how do I find the right timing spot. Runs but I don't want to ruin it.
Hopefully someone can give me a clue!
If the saw fires when the magnets pass the iron core of the coil then my timing is about 28 degrees before TDC.
#82
General Board / Re: Welcome President Trump.
Last post by fluidpowerpro - Yesterday at 01:21:07 PM2 things will be required before any major improvement can happen.
1. Reverse the Citizens United decision that allows superpacks to spend unlimited money on an election.
2. Adopt ranked choice voting. That way you can vote for a 3rd party candidate without feeling like its a wasted vote.
1. Reverse the Citizens United decision that allows superpacks to spend unlimited money on an election.
2. Adopt ranked choice voting. That way you can vote for a 3rd party candidate without feeling like its a wasted vote.
#83
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Jerry’s Resharp Sharpening...
Last post by barbender - Yesterday at 01:18:26 PMI will say, other than Woodmizer I think that the bix of blades I got from Cutting Edge were the only ones that were sequenced, aligned and welded correctly. Every other place I've gotten blades from have had issues in that area. Because of that, I don't really try new suppliers. It isn't worth the trouble for me.
I think Yellowhammer did a video, ot maybe it was a post on the Forum, about the issues with blade welding that I'm talking about.
I think many places want to put their entry level employees on sharpening and blade welding, when in reality that is a position for an experienced and knowledgeable operator.
I think Yellowhammer did a video, ot maybe it was a post on the Forum, about the issues with blade welding that I'm talking about.
I think many places want to put their entry level employees on sharpening and blade welding, when in reality that is a position for an experienced and knowledgeable operator.
#84
Chainsaws / Re: Sawing a saw out
Last post by barbender - Yesterday at 01:15:04 PMIf the saw has an inboard clutch you could remove the powerhead so that you just have a bar and chain in the log. Then get another bar and chain and you'll have an extra saw to attack the trunk with.
#85
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by beenthere - Yesterday at 12:32:11 PMGrosbeak, suspect Rose-breasted but can't be sure from what is pictured.
#86
Sawmills and Milling / Re: "Old school" making an axl...
Last post by rusticretreater - Yesterday at 12:31:16 PMI think I can answer a few of those questions as I own an old mill and have had to research these things. First the metal ends inserted into the log are called gudgeons.
To answer the questions:
Why would they not put in the axle studs on the tapered ends first, after roughing to basic shape, before lathe turning, so that the axle studs were guaranteed to be centered and solid?
As you saw in the video, they put in drive cranks so that they could manually spin the log. That would be difficult with the gudgeons in place. But there is another reason as you will learn in the following answers.
Why isn't metal axle stud plate blacksmithed like a metal wedge and driven in the mortises and then shrunk with bands?
A knife edge on the metal plate, when driven in, starts a split of the log lengthwise. The rotational torque applied by the water wheel would then constantly flex the split, destroying the axle over time.
Why do they overcut the axle mortise so much? and put the wedges in after they shrunk the bands, (after the original constraining band) and not before? And why do they used such thick wedges to begin with and didn't cut the mortise tighter, like a barrel Cooper?
This is a battle of opposing forces used to mechanical benefit. The bands, made to a standard size are not meant to be the clamping force to hold the gudgeons in. They are the reinforcement of the wood to allow the clamping forces to be used. The key part about installing the bands is that they are driven on and into the wood, burning a flatter seat for them to sit on. Yes, yes they do contract when cooled but that is just part of the clamping/seating process.
The wedges are needed to secure the gudgeon into the shaft as it does not have any biting/cutting edges. They are large so that they can be driven in without breaking. As this is part art form, they don't closely measure the diameters of the shafts, the bands and their cuts. The wedges take up all the slack from the previous steps in the process.
It does take a good deal of force to get them in. If you noticed, they are a different species of wood. In this case it appears to be white oak, but it could be another type. When the wood gets wet, it expands and clamps everything even more tightly than by mechanical force alone. Also, since it absorbs the water it doesn't decay or dry out that rapidly, giving a long service life.
Another thing that most folks don't pick up on right away is that the power transfer from water turning the wheel to rotational power is not smooth. There is a pulse that goes through the parts every time water slams into one of the wheel buckets. The axle ends are one place where this pulse is absorbed and the wet wedges help cushion the blows.
You also might find it interesting in that having a perfectly spinning cylinder is not all that important as a water wheel only spins 6-8 times a minute when in use. Plus the shaft is dressed where the wheel is attached creating a true centerline of the shaft. There is a process for that too.
To answer the questions:
Why would they not put in the axle studs on the tapered ends first, after roughing to basic shape, before lathe turning, so that the axle studs were guaranteed to be centered and solid?
As you saw in the video, they put in drive cranks so that they could manually spin the log. That would be difficult with the gudgeons in place. But there is another reason as you will learn in the following answers.
Why isn't metal axle stud plate blacksmithed like a metal wedge and driven in the mortises and then shrunk with bands?
A knife edge on the metal plate, when driven in, starts a split of the log lengthwise. The rotational torque applied by the water wheel would then constantly flex the split, destroying the axle over time.
Why do they overcut the axle mortise so much? and put the wedges in after they shrunk the bands, (after the original constraining band) and not before? And why do they used such thick wedges to begin with and didn't cut the mortise tighter, like a barrel Cooper?
This is a battle of opposing forces used to mechanical benefit. The bands, made to a standard size are not meant to be the clamping force to hold the gudgeons in. They are the reinforcement of the wood to allow the clamping forces to be used. The key part about installing the bands is that they are driven on and into the wood, burning a flatter seat for them to sit on. Yes, yes they do contract when cooled but that is just part of the clamping/seating process.
The wedges are needed to secure the gudgeon into the shaft as it does not have any biting/cutting edges. They are large so that they can be driven in without breaking. As this is part art form, they don't closely measure the diameters of the shafts, the bands and their cuts. The wedges take up all the slack from the previous steps in the process.
It does take a good deal of force to get them in. If you noticed, they are a different species of wood. In this case it appears to be white oak, but it could be another type. When the wood gets wet, it expands and clamps everything even more tightly than by mechanical force alone. Also, since it absorbs the water it doesn't decay or dry out that rapidly, giving a long service life.
Another thing that most folks don't pick up on right away is that the power transfer from water turning the wheel to rotational power is not smooth. There is a pulse that goes through the parts every time water slams into one of the wheel buckets. The axle ends are one place where this pulse is absorbed and the wet wedges help cushion the blows.
You also might find it interesting in that having a perfectly spinning cylinder is not all that important as a water wheel only spins 6-8 times a minute when in use. Plus the shaft is dressed where the wheel is attached creating a true centerline of the shaft. There is a process for that too.
#87
General Board / Re: Felling wedges
Last post by Larry - Yesterday at 12:22:53 PMI practice directional felling on every tree I cut. With that in mind probably 80% meet a wedge or two. I only buy 12" long wedges as shorter ones don't give me as much lift and are harder to drive (I'm lazy). I looked to see what brands I have and found a big variety so I guess no favorites. I drive the wedges with a short handle sledge, boy's ax, or a home made wood mallet. Since I don't have to pound as hard, I seldom destroy wedges putting them in.
With directional felling I bore cut exclusively. Cutting a wedge with the saw is common for me, operator error I suppose.
I sometimes will use a wedge to back out a blade but most often I cut it as suggested earlier. If I do back out a blade, I have a 3' section of a old blade that I put a wood handle on. Teeth face me. I use this like a hand saw to clear the kerf of sawdust before backing out the band. Helps a lot.
With directional felling I bore cut exclusively. Cutting a wedge with the saw is common for me, operator error I suppose.
I sometimes will use a wedge to back out a blade but most often I cut it as suggested earlier. If I do back out a blade, I have a 3' section of a old blade that I put a wood handle on. Teeth face me. I use this like a hand saw to clear the kerf of sawdust before backing out the band. Helps a lot.
#88
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by LeftFinger - Yesterday at 12:14:32 PMWe were given a bird feeder with a built in camera . It's been ignored for a week and now this is the first customer but what is he
#89
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Jerry’s Resharp Sharpening...
Last post by beenthere - Yesterday at 12:06:28 PMThe forum doesn't hear much from member Cutting Edge anymore. Pleased, but also surprised, to hear that he is still doing his blade business.
#90
Chainsaws / Re: Sawing a saw out
Last post by beenthere - Yesterday at 11:59:45 AMJim
A bit unfortunate that you find yourself learning chainsaw cutting techniques that you need to know when in this difficult and dangerous situation with this downed tree. Difficult to give you safe advice while not knowing for sure your situation at hand. The cuts you have made so far will all tell the real story.
So, get another bar and chain on site with wedges, and take your time cutting pie-shaped wedges, plunge cuts, and more chainsaw cuts while monitoring the cuts so you can withdraw the bar the split moment the cuts begin to close in on the bar. Go slowly, as staying in the cut too long results in a stuck bar which you have discovered.
Wish you the best going forward. Take a camera along or use your phone to take pics so we can see the situation and offer better advice. All good advice given so far but interpretation does require some experience to interpret what it really means.
A bit unfortunate that you find yourself learning chainsaw cutting techniques that you need to know when in this difficult and dangerous situation with this downed tree. Difficult to give you safe advice while not knowing for sure your situation at hand. The cuts you have made so far will all tell the real story.
So, get another bar and chain on site with wedges, and take your time cutting pie-shaped wedges, plunge cuts, and more chainsaw cuts while monitoring the cuts so you can withdraw the bar the split moment the cuts begin to close in on the bar. Go slowly, as staying in the cut too long results in a stuck bar which you have discovered.
Wish you the best going forward. Take a camera along or use your phone to take pics so we can see the situation and offer better advice. All good advice given so far but interpretation does require some experience to interpret what it really means.
