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#1
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Horizontal slab shaver.
Last post by Peter Drouin - Today at 07:40:12 PM
I can't imagine 10 years of slabs in the yard. ffsmiley
Best of luck to you sir.
#2
The Outdoor Board / Re: A Forestry Forum snake hun...
Last post by Old Greenhorn - Today at 07:38:57 PM
Yessir Howard, you are spinning quite the yarn there, and I see to be taking quite a beating as a result, quite a beating indeed. As I don't recall signing any paperwork regarding releases connected with said 'historical fabrications for the purposes of entertainment, I may reserve the right to do a little creative writing of my own.
 As for the artwork, Howard I believe you have some grandchildren that could elevate your ability to tell the story in pictures in a pretty quick manner. From all I have read they are pretty Very sharp and talented kids and could help grandpa out easily as they have with other things that challenge him, like bigfoot tracking, etc.
#3
Quote from: Nealm66 on Today at 07:30:38 PMI don't think it's necessary to cut in on both sides all the time. Just if you afraid of a barber chair. I definitely wouldn't cut your outside holding wood if you're trying to swing something. I was just reacting to the shallow undercut discussion.
Rarely afraid of barber chair on spruce but I'd you don't cut the side straps you damage the log
#4
I will get 2'' of trim and scale to the foot if it is a square cut I like 6" of trim.
Nice to see how mills work on scale in the country.
I use International 1/4" 
#5
Forestry and Logging / Re: How much Face Cut Angle Ca...
Last post by Nealm66 - Today at 07:30:38 PM
I don't think it's necessary to cut in on both sides all the time. Just if you afraid of a barber chair. I definitely wouldn't cut your outside holding wood if you're trying to swing something. I was just reacting to the shallow undercut discussion. 
#6
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Spruce? Green or dried?
Last post by Don P - Today at 07:29:43 PM
I'm guessing their stamp is SPF(S), South?

Anyway, take the checking comment seriously, every species generally behaves in a way. For me Tulip poplar is similar in that all the tangential/radial shrinkage will combine and tend to create one whopper check. Log home companies tried and abandoned it although historic ones are everywhere (Dolly is singing somewhere ffsmiley )... with big checks. 



We did a number with a mix of red and white pine. That was where I first started noticing that red developed many smaller checks and white pine one or two larger ones, but less than poplar. 

What initiates the check is a severe moisture gradient between the shell and the core. When tension perp to grain exceeds strength perp to grain (wood's weakest direction) then it splits. If you can moderate surface drying while still allowing the core to dry, you'll reduce the gradient. I would opine to our log home clients that if they would put on some form of oil finish immediately, as a drying coat, it would reduce checking. That first winter, be cold, don't run any more heat than necessary. Moderate surface drying of larger timbers.

With that checked timber above in mind, just another log home observation. My settlement was never close to calculated radial shrinkage. That is an extreme example but notice why. The shrinkage did happen, but the timber checked. It did not lose anywhere near the height that had occurred by shrinkage, much of the dimensional change is in that check.
#7
General Board / Re: Having to Buy Tires.
Last post by doc henderson - Today at 07:25:47 PM
Yes, and if it is north of you, in October we will error on the side of caution.   ffcool
#8
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by Nealm66 - Today at 07:24:34 PM
So the conventional undercut is typically shallow enough it doesn't go deeper than the swell is why it's no big deal over there? They would either cull the whole log or charge a reman over here. Can't be wasting space on them boats
#9
Forestry and Logging / Re: Humboldt vs. Conventional
Last post by Nealm66 - Today at 07:20:25 PM
That's definitely different than how the bigger mills operate here. They have a minimum length average for the higher price as they know scribner will give them a lot of free wood on longer logs with taper
#10
I buy logs from loggers around me in NH. Some do a good job some not so much. As a mill, I want 8' logs as well. big sawmills want only want 16' some 14' a hand full of 12' no 10' or 8'. I tell them to let the tree tell them what to cut. Strate logs make strate lumber.
I sell 8' to 24' in all the sizes. W pine and hemlock.
When I get 8' with a big notch in it. butt log I might get 7'.
But that is in the butt swell, so no matter.
I do have a good bunch who will call to see what I need for the length I want. I have a load coming with a bunch of 10' and 8' Hemlock. I told the logger to cut 17' and I will make 8' out of them.
I sell my lumber with the trim of the log on it.
After I cut the 17' into 8' then I scaled them. I even pay $50.00 a 1000 more than the big mills pay. I find if I treat them right they give me what I want or need. I am selling some 36' to 40' and they know what makes a good beam.
I love good loggers.

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