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Author Topic: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers  (Read 17924 times)

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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2018, 01:52:46 PM »
I only move the small end up half the difference of the tall end. If the big end is 20" high and the little end is 16" high I would bring up the small end to 18" This centers the pith.
thank you.
i am very Green when it comes to milling
still trying to figure out 4/4 and 8/4
i think it is 4" x 4" and 8" x 4"
 
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2018, 02:23:04 PM »
   No. 4/4 is 4 fourths of an inch or 1", 8/4 = 2", 12/4 = 3", 6/4 = 1.5", 5/4 = 1-1/4", etc
Howard Green
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Offline WDH

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #22 on: February 27, 2018, 04:28:04 PM »
Danny,

   Good point. If I were chasing that market and cutting 1-1/8" boards my cheat sheet would read:

1-1/8
2-1/4
3-3/8
4-1/2
5-5/8
6-3/4
etc.

   I'd stop at 3-3/8 to edge my 1X4s or 5-5/8 for my 1X6s.
Howard,
Except for the bottom board (dog board -old saying), you need to add 1/8" for the kerf on your cheat sheet. For example:
Bottom board 1 1/8"
Second from bottom board  2 3/8"
Third from bottom board 3 5/8"
Essentially, add 1 1/4 " from the bottom board of 1 1/8" for each board above the bottom board as the 1/8" kerf from the sawblade comes from the top of the cant. 
Hope this makes sense. 
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #23 on: February 27, 2018, 05:48:19 PM »
Danny,

  It does but it also depends where you read/set/calibrate the arrow on your scale. I have mine set so the kerf is taken from the top of my board. So when I read 1" on my scale there is actually a one inch board left after the cut.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Chuck White

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2018, 08:49:15 PM »
Chuck,

 I generally save down to a 1X4 out of my flitches to maximize my yield and minimize my waste. I have no trouble using or selling a 1X4 board as many people use them for strips under a metal roof and such.

 If I am sawing 1X4's out of my flitches I stop when my cant is at 3-1/4". I'd cut the cant if I were to stop at a 5" cant. If I am sawing nothing below a 1X6 then I stop at 5-1/2". My cheat sheet is set up for 1-1/8" drop per cut which is what I set my SimpleSet to. These leave me a 1/8" kerf and a 1" board after each cut. So for 4/4 boards my starting points/marks that I set my SS are:

1"
2-1/8"
3-1/4"
4-3/8"
5-1/2"
6-5/8"
7-3/4"
8-7/8"
10"
etc.

 

  I find plenty of support for a 1X4 or a 1X6 against a 3-1/4" cant. If I were edging nothing smaller than 1X12's I'd probably use a 10" cant.

  If you are not saving anything below a 6" board I'd agree with the 5" (Actually 5-1/2" in my case) cant.

   BTW - I never make marks against the cant because it is always at least 1/2" below the blade.



I understand what you're saying Howard, the point I was trying to bring across was if your edging on your mill, stand your flitches up next to the cant and edge so that your blade clears the cant without touching it!
~Chuck~
Retired USAF 1989, Retired School Bus Driver 2012, now semi-retired Mobile Sawyer, 2018 Silverado 4X4
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Offline caveman

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #25 on: February 27, 2018, 09:15:13 PM »
We like keeping wooden wedges on hand as they have several uses.  If you do have to back out of a cut, they can be driven into the kerf of the cant/log.  We do not have hydraulics or toe boards but using the handle of a long canthook as a lever or the scissors jack on a scrap of wood, a wedge can be inserted between the small end of the log and the bed rail to center the pith.  The wedges can also be used between the cam clamp and the log to take up space and to keep the clamp at an angle to give it good clamping leverage.

The foldable aluminum benches like the ones that are sold at Home Depot and Lowes the day after Thanksgiving for $20 will hold a lot more weight than they are rated for and are handy for holding sawn lumber or flitches until edging.

  



Offline DDW_OR

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #26 on: February 27, 2018, 09:39:16 PM »
I keep a 3x4x6' cedar cant next to the mill for flinches. Cedar because it is light weight.

I will keep 2 or 3 stacks of flinches, one width per stack.
when a stack is full i then make it into lumber.

my operation is dependent on "work smarter not harder", and "let the machines do the work"
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #27 on: February 27, 2018, 09:47:15 PM »
DDW_OR,

Your T-square should work if the first end of the log is directly over the bunk it is sitting on.  If it extends beyond the bunk, when you raise the other end, the first end will be lower.  On your TK2000, you can get pretty close by raising the stops and sighting so that the top of the log is parallel to the top of the stops.  That is, of course, if you want to mill parallel to the bark. If the log has taper and you are trying to center the pith, then measuring the pith height at each end is more accurate.  Again, if your first measurement is not directly over the bunk, you have to measure it again after tilting the log.
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #28 on: February 27, 2018, 10:01:09 PM »
Chuck,

   I think we are saying and doing the same thing as to our edging techniques then. We are both suggesting using the cant as a stable backbone to keep the flitches upright during edging and leave enough clearance so the blade doesn't touch the cant. 

   A small number of thin, round edged flitches clamped by themselves at a single point tend to flop at each end, lean off square, jump out of the clamps, and generally misbehave badly during edging on the mill.

Cavey,

   When I go to a sawing site I always take 3 plastic felling wedges I use if I have to back out of a cut doing the same thing as your wooden wedges which are very useful to have handy.

    You use folding sawhorses to hold your flitches from your manual mill while, since I have hydraulics I partially lower and use the loading arms for that purpose. I actually tried putting sawhorses next to my mill when I was sawing at home and staged my flitches on them till I was ready to edge them. The advantage was I could edge similar sized flitches reducing the number of cuts  to usually 2 cuts per stack of flitches. The disadvantages were I had to work around the sawhorses and lift and move my flitches further and more often. With my loading arms I just slide the flitch off on to the arms as it is cut and I never really lift it until edging time, if then. I typically have no more than 5-6 flitches off most logs to be edged. If I did not have my hydraulic arms I'd readily embrace and use the folding sawhorses. 

   This is a very good tip for you sawyers doing mobile milling with manual mills.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline climber2

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #29 on: February 27, 2018, 10:06:28 PM »
my operation is dependent on "work smarter not harder", and "let the machines do the work"
I like it.
I always tell my workers 'don't be rude to the equipment, let them do the work'
Most just laugh it off, a few catch on...
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Offline LeeB

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #30 on: February 27, 2018, 10:29:24 PM »
I center tapered logs by raising the backstops to the center of the large end and then sight down the log to center the small end. Much faster than a tape measure. 
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #31 on: February 27, 2018, 10:58:21 PM »
DDW_OR,

   Are you using a manual or hydraulic mill? As I mentioned above I have gotten too lazy to lift my flitches off the mill since I don't have to. Are you edging against a cant or just edging a large number of flitches at one time? You may be edging faster then I do but I bet I'm doing less lifting. :D

    I'd suggest each of you at least try both methods of edging flitches and see which works best for you. I tried the sawhorses and gang edging of flitches off multiple cants and decided, for me and my equipment, edging off each cant works best. 

   Neither method is right or wrong - just personal preference.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline JB Griffin

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #32 on: February 27, 2018, 11:35:12 PM »
Danny,

  It does but it also depends where you read/set/calibrate the arrow on your scale. I have mine set so the kerf is taken from the top of my board. So when I read 1" on my scale there is actually a one inch board left after the cut.
It would still require a 1 1/4" drop to cut a 1 1/8" board. Your cheat sheet from earlier in this thread will not cut hardwood 4/4 lumber. 
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Offline Darrel

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #33 on: February 28, 2018, 12:20:36 AM »
If I have good help, I like to save all my flitches until I get quite a few and then gang edge. If I'm working by myself, I edge against the cant for each log. 
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Offline DDW_OR

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #34 on: February 28, 2018, 01:37:00 AM »
DDW_OR,

   Are you using a manual or hydraulic mill? As I mentioned above I have gotten too lazy to lift my flitches off the mill since I don't have to. Are you edging against a cant or just edging a large number of flitches at one time? You may be edging faster then I do but I bet I'm doing less lifting. :D

    I'd suggest each of you at least try both methods of edging flitches and see which works best for you. I tried the sawhorses and gang edging of flitches off multiple cants and decided, for me and my equipment, edging off each cant works best.

   Neither method is right or wrong - just personal preference.
hydraulic mill with setworks computer

i will try both methods.
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #35 on: February 28, 2018, 08:17:08 AM »
JB,

   You are correct. I would need 1-1/4" on my SS to produce 1-1/8" finished boards. Good catch.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline tawilson

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #36 on: February 28, 2018, 09:40:35 AM »
It just doinked on me yesterday that sliding the log away from the backstops after opening up the first 2 faces made it easier to flip it to the next face without getting hung up. I know about the pipe over the backstops trick but I sometimes get twisted up on logs I don't think I should need that for. Any tricks there would be appreciated.
I love threads like this. Thanks.
Tom
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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #37 on: February 28, 2018, 09:56:41 AM »
TA,

   What are you calling your first 2 faces? Most of the times I cut the first face then rotate 180 degrees to cut the cant to the thickness which will be the width of my finished boards on my second cut. On smaller logs I will often just rotate 90 degrees then make my second cut.

   I may try nudging the cant away from the side supports to see if it makes it easier for my claw to rotate it.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline tawilson

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #38 on: February 28, 2018, 11:51:20 AM »
I usually just rotate 90 degrees and cut again so I'm talking turning it for the third cut with the log clamp so as not too chew up the face with the claw.
Tom
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: General Sawing tips for portable sawyers
« Reply #39 on: February 28, 2018, 01:17:20 PM »
If you get the hang of the reverse roll with a hydraulic, you can save some time and be able to rotate the cant both directions. One roll to the right instead of 3 rolls to the left will get you sawing a face faster.  Easyiest technique is to just drop the clamp and slide it under the left side of a square edged cant and raise it while pushing it to the loader arms.  It will flip the cant clockwise, depending on how balanced it is.  If the cant is sliding outboard on the bed rails instead of flipping, raise the claw a hair and use its "chin" as a bump stop on the right side of the cant.  It will cause the cant to trip and roll over to the right, clockwise.  As its rolling over, drop the claw so it wont land on it and stab the face.  Keep the loader arms up until you get the hang of this, as it can flip the cant or log off the mill, but it will be caught on the arms.

Harder in complexity is to drop the backstops and using the clamp, push the cant edge over them, way to the left.  As the cant rides up over the lowered backstops, raise them, all the while continuing to come inboard with the clamp at the same time.  It will snap roll the cant clockwise with authority.  I learned that trick from a Woodmizer Competition Sawyer many years ago.  Be careful not not roll this one off the mill.  This works best with a cant with wane on that bottom left edge, or an unopened face on the bottom left edge, in order to ramp up and ride up and over the left side fixed clamp and short backstop studs.  Sometimes, if the cant is very sharp cornered and I don't want to mess it up, I'll just jack it up and lift it over the folded backstops with the two plane.  It takes longer to explain the moves than to do them.

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