Quote from: SwampDonkey on Today at 12:58:55 PMBut my point is, how do you know the tree is 15'-10" when the tree is vertical?I don't, but I'm not taking chances, sometimes it pays off sometimes it doesn't. One can get pretty close to eyeing out a 16' in a standing tree though
Most often a log 12'-6" with a bigger top end is going to be more money to begin with. Same with sweep in a long log, enough deflection by 16' that don't grade, but bucked shorter, more money. Seen it many times.
Quote from: WhitePineJunky on Today at 11:53:52 AMSame here, huge percentage of 8 and 10' logs to make grade and that extra few inches can make all the difference. I do need to practice humboldt more, on the steep it probably won't leave a higher stump if done like Skeans says when falling downhill and no full wrap so get a couple more out of it It just does not feel as natural to me and don't do it much so no muscle memory to kick in.Quote from: SwampDonkey on Today at 10:09:05 AMThe log length would be determined on the other end. No one is climbing trees with tape measures. Well low can be a foot high, a standard stump height. I've seen some trees cut 3 feet high, someone didn't want to bend too much. No flare up that high. A 3 foot high stump wouldn't pass around here. I'm cutting wood that isn't huge, so most stumps are under a foot, some I cut flush, but on trails. Never know, might need to cut 20" high on a big old rock maple 4 feet on the but. Once you get above the flare the taper is a lot slower. I wouldn't drive over a stump that big even if it was 8" high unless it's a skidder or forwarder. I will cut a popple high if it has a J-shape but to. Cut it off later. Hard splitting those, the grain is curved.You're misunderstanding me. There may be a bend 15'10" up from where a humbolt would be, but if I do lower a couple inches with a conventional, I can make that a 16' log.
I don't have perfect cream crop trees like they do out west, so I scrounge what I can
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