Hi guys,
I have been lurking around here for some time... finally got around to registering. I am fairly new to sawmilling, don't own one yet, but I'm getting close to making the big purchase.
Looking at both Woodmiser and Timberking. I really like the TK1600, but I don't like that it doesn't come with hydraulic toe boards. Timberking says that they aren't an option on the 1600.
My question is: if I crafted and installed roller toe boards and coupled those to hydraulic cylinders could I tie-into the mills hydraulics? I assume this would require plumbing my hoses thru the energy chain? Maybe getting TK to supply the valve? Does anyone know, is there extra room in the energy chain to accommodate this?
They do sell the 1600 with 1 scissor type toe board as standard. I feel like 2 hydraulic toe boards with rollers would be so much better. I have a tractor with forks, and this wood help greatly in removing cants and stacks of cut wood from the deck.
Any help with this is welcome
Clay
Get the bigger mill and be done with it....
Yea, I would like to do that... but $11,000 more is, unfortunately, out of my budget.
I have used agdirect.com for two attachments
First was a BrushHound 30EX, the second was an Arbro 400 stroke harvester
20% down and 3 to 5 years.
AgDirect - Equipment Financing (https://www.agdirect.com/)
I didn't know the hydraulic tow boards were an option on the 1600. The TK2000 is actually more of a $15,000 upgrade, price just went up.
Love my 1600 and Timberking has been great with customer service. They sent me a guide roller for nothing even when it was my fault for getting a flat spot on one. That being said the toe board roller included with the 1600 is pretty much useless. It's just a car jack. With small logs you can get by with it but it won't even lift the end of a big log. My jack handle broke the first few days I had the mill.
I want to add hydraulic toe boards to mine too. You wouldn't have to worry about running them through the energy chain. They would not need to move with the head. Might as well add a cylinder to the log clamp while your doing it. That's on my to do list too. The clamp needs to be a little longer also so you could stand up wide flitches and flip cants. Every mill is gonna have little things that can be improved upon but I am very happy with my timberking. Only thing I would do different next time is buy the 2000.
chinaberry,welcome to the forum.
What's the plan for the lumber?
Thanks for replying, DDW_OR... AgDirect - equipment financing... I'll check them out for financing. Can't spend too much to scratch this bad sawmilling "itch " I have.
Thanks for replying to my post on the TK1600; Chaser. I did call TK and ask them about the two directional clamp for the 1600, and they did say it could be added as an option. ( add $1700 ).
As far as adding the hydraulic toe boards, I thought that the hoses would need to be plumbed into the hydraulic motor and reservoir which is on the traveling head... necessitating the need to run in the energy chain. Glad to hear that you are happy with your 1600 and with your service from Timberking.
Clay
Thanks, thecfarm, for your kind welcome to the board. I am initially going to use the sawmill for personal use... more of a hobby. I have 14 acres that I have to clear with some nice oaks and hickory's, and I hate to see them go to waste for just firewood.
I am going to build a 4 bay shed for my trucks, boat, and tractor. Then a sawmill shed, shop, and solar kiln. We'll see how it goes. Still working full time.
Clay
Hi Chinaberry,
I recently got a 2004 model 1600 and have been modifying it. I added the chain turner and a two plane clamp. I bought the turner from Timberking and built the two plane clamp. Toe boards are next on my list. I also upgraded the log stops, changed to the newer flanged guide rollers and changed drive belts and other routine maintenance stuff.
Chaser357 is correct, the hydraulic lines will not need to go into the energy chain. The original 3 spool valve on my mill has a power beyond port, making it easy to mount additional valves. I have a total of 9 spools on mine, now. Timberking can supply the extra valves, but they will also tell you that you may save money sourcing them yourself.
Jimmy at Timberking has bent over backwards to help and has been a great resource. Parts have been readily available and have all shipped the same day ordered, other than the turner assembly. From my experience, so far, you won't have any worries with Timberking over either parts or service help.
The 1600 is a great, solidly built mill. Modify it to suit yourself and I think you'll probably be very happy with it.
Greg
This a such a great resource for us new guys... that was just what I needed to know, Greg. Thank you. Good to know Timberking is so service oriented and (willing to help). Who should I get with at TK? Anyone in particular in tech support I should talk with?
Just one more question for you 1600 owners ... and then I'll guit pestering you, for now.
Do you find it cumbersome or a problem not having a remote throttle control?
Thanks... in advance!
Yes, a remote throttle would be a great help as the factory throttle location on the Kohler is not very user accessible most of the time. I find myself stepping up on the frame to reach it quite often. Hopefully I will install a remote throttle before I slip and fall doing this.
i have a 1600 and made my own hydraulic jack toe board & have probably used it 6 times in 6 years. it's easy to drop the head if you want to throttle up/down.
I agree it's easy enough to drop the head although it's kind of slow and it doesn't work to drop the head if you already have your cut height established in you setworks.
Thanks, guys for your insights on the TK1600. I'm sure that after I operate it for some time, I will have a better feel for what feels right for me.
Reading the posts on sawmills, it seems that a lot of you really enjoy tinkering with your saws and making various modifications... part of the enjoyment, I think.
Clay
I know that price is a major issue when buying new, but there are mills available that might make you happy. I'd check around for a used 2000 with the bigger motor, toe boards, bi-plane clamp, rugged backstops and other upgrades. I've seen a few on the net, and the price was reasonable. TK has been known to provide good service to used buyers as well, and it might be worth it to get the mill with all the features you need, now.
a lot of good reading
Useful sawmill mods in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,7789.msg1397352/topicseen.html#msg1397352)
Sawdust blower on a bandmill in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,21322.msg354064.html#msg354064)
what degree bandsaw blade in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,95785.msg1477473.html#msg1477473)
New Lumber Storage Shed in General Board (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,88869.0/all.html)
Observations of a New Sawyer in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=100723.0;all)
trees and bees, can it pay to plant cover crops in young forests? in Alternative methods and solutions (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97948.0;all)
Chinaberry: I discarded my manual toe board on my used 1600 shortly after I got it.
I simply use a stout 2X4 to lever off a rail to lift the log and place whatever thickness shim (precut) I need under the log on the bunk and dog the log down. Not very sophisticated, but simple, and it works at either end of the mill.
I believe a remote throttle is available from TK. It's an electric solenoid, and runs a conductor thru the energy chain I believe.
Dale
I finished up the toeboards for my TK 1600. Thanks to forum member Larry for help and advice. I ended up using 3 x 6 hydraulic cylinders with a 1-1/4 rod. The toe boards are set up similar to the two plane clamp and can be slid back and forth from 6-1/2 feet apart to 11-1/2 feet apart. The rollers are 1 inch below the bunks fully retracted and raise to 5 inches above fully extended. I used the mills onboard hydraulics by adding another valve stack from the power beyond port on the original 3 position valve. I added a total of 6 more valves to power the chain turner, two plane clamp and toe boards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17562/20181217_135305.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1545340277)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17562/20181217_135315.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1545340360)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17562/20181217_135320.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1545340394)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17562/20181217_135328.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1545340432)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17562/20181217_135405.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1545340463)
smiley_thumbsup slick smiley_thumbsup Only way to improve on that would be to power the rollers, but you really don't need that. You guys at TK see this ?
That two plane idea is "over the top" terrific!! Not only can you dodge knots, you will also find that you can "nudge" a log forward or backwards with it. smiley_thumbsup
Amp, nice work there! Did you make your two plane clamp? Also did you have the manual chain turner and make it hydrolic? I'm in the planning stage for both of them and the toe boards down the road. Thanks
I made the two plane clamp from scratch. Larry and GAmountain man have posted lots of pictures and I used those to come up with the design.
The chain turner was purchased from Timberking, complete.
Quote from: Magicman on December 21, 2018, 09:41:49 AM
That two plane idea is "over the top" terrific!! Not only can you dodge knots, you will also find that you can "nudge" a log forward or backwards with it. smiley_thumbsup
They only slide manually. It didn't seem like it would be worth the effort and expense to power them.
The reason I said they were patterned after the two plane clamp is the cylinder mount, slide and 3/4 x 2 side support bar, just like the clamp.
Raise both ends of a log and you will find that by using a peavey or cant hook as a pry bar, it will either roll or slide. Either way and you win. ;D
:o :o :o I am green with envy! You did a really nice job on those mods. You have just made your milling soooooo much easier. Great work! Think I may know someone that needs the same thing on his mill ???.
Wanting to add toe boards and was wondering where to find these pictures that Larry and GA Mountainman posted.
They look factory made or better😎😎
The pictures from Larry and GA Mountain Man were of the two plane clamp. There were a few posts, and additional pictures in their galleries. The toe board design just kinda evolved.
Greg
Great work apm.
I've never seen sliding Toe Boards. It's a great idea too.
Curious about your 2plane clamp. Can you lift and roll big logs with it. I've only seen Woodmizers style. They use cylinders instead of a hydraulic motor. Also wondering if the UHMW is strong enough to handle the pressures from turning big logs. If so, I may change how I build mine.
Not a timberking, but I added 9 toe rollers to my Woodmizer LX450 main bed, and my own extension. They were cheaper to buy than to make at around $464 each. they came with all the brackets, hardware, and hydraulic cylinders. It was simple enough to plumb them into a spare hydraulic power unit and the existing valves, or use some 12VDC solenoid valves plumbed into the original hydraulics.
Quote from: boardmaker on August 06, 2019, 03:16:24 PM
Great work apm.
I've never seen sliding Toe Boards. It's a great idea too.
Curious about your 2plane clamp. Can you lift and roll big logs with it. I've only seen Woodmizers style. They use cylinders instead of a hydraulic motor. Also wondering if the UHMW is strong enough to handle the pressures from turning big logs. If so, I may change how I build mine.
The 2 plane clamp is plenty sturdy enough to lift and roll logs, but I haven't tried turning logs with it because I've got the chain turner. I do flip large cants to keep the chain turner from scarring the corners and it works well for that. I also use it to move the cants away from the backstops. On the 1600, the backstops swing in an arc to raise and lower. When the cant is firmly against them, they are hard to move. I put the 2 plane clamp under the cant, lift it and scoot it away from the backstops.
The UHMW is what Timberking uses and seems to hold up fine.
Greg