The Forestry Forum

So, wanting to clean up the yard, so planning to use my 1976 ford dump truck.  thought, it is time to pull off the right rear brakes and fix a wheel cylinder that has been leaking for years.  If it sits for a half year, then you have to bleed the brakes.  My Dad was a truck driver and home mechanic, so he was always strict about brakes and tires.  Went out to move it up to the shop but had to bleed the brakes.  looked under the hood and had a significant gas leak.  so thought that looks like the accelerator pump.  got parts etc. and fixed that so it set me back a few days.  started to pull the wheels off and had to get a bud wheel socket and my batt DeWalt half inch impact would not budge the nuts. so got a 3/4 break over and got those off.  got to the drum and could not get it off, so tried heat, a porta power, a puller...  Oh, the hub and the brake drum s all in one.  :veryangry:  had to call a few friends, and found I needed to open the hub, and pull the axle and bearings.  got the drum/hub assembly off and found I had a broken spring.  also, my brother broke off a bolt, I had to drill out and run a tap in.  found the springs 45 minutes away, and the wheel cylinders in town at Rose motor.  Had to free up the adjustors and remake several brake lines that twisted of.  So went to HF and bought a variety of tubing benders.  :thumbsup:  now found that the store-bought brake lines are the right overall length, but one needed a larger nut to fit the threads.  been stuck on that but have all I need to replace the small nut and relace with the larger, refill the diff. and bleed the brakes.  This is why I am feeling old.  ffcheesy

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So we trimmed some branches after high winds, and a few that had grown and hung in the way to mow.  so, I trimmed and my wife and son drug them over and put them in the track loader bucket.  It took a while the second time so i went to see if my son was having trouble.  he said it would not do anything, and sure enough it ran fine going back but none of the hydraulics would work.  I had never lifted the cab up and could not raise the arms which is the easiest way to get to the tank etc.  so got the cab up, then put 10 gallon in and fluid back on the sight glass.  raised and locked the arms.  my buddy Dallas that you have all heard about, came down to help me find the hose.  the belly was full of dirt, oil and some water after the rain we had.  the leak was under the water and oil.  had to pull the belly access panels.  clean with a pressure washer, got the hose found and removed Saturday at 3 pm.  No one open to make a new one... smiley_thumbsdown   things are cleaned up and will get a hose in the am.  put it back together.  It is good my wife seeing why things do not always get done in one day.   :wacky:

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Dallas was a big help as we lower the cab onto a block of wood so he could look and find the leak, as I just bumped the movement forward and cause a spray of fluid.  got the hose off and ready to drop off in am.

Doc, if you washed those wheel bearings make sure you pack some grease in them when you reassemble the hub.Even though they get oil from the differential it takes a while to work its way into them and I have saw several sets of wheel bearings burnt up before getting oil.My experience is mostly with IH trucks but yours is probably similar.

Yep sometimes I hit a stretch where everything is a fight. I tend to sleep in on those days😊

 we kept them clean and did squirt well with 80/90 oil putting back together.  This has been my "hobby" the past few weeks.  My muscles and joints, combined with the heat and lying and crawling on the ground, then getting up... this is why I feel old. ffsmiley

I was walking through the shop where I worked several years ago and a fellow was putting brakes on his service truck. I noticed he had washed the wheel bearings and stopped and told him he might want to pack some grease in them. He said they run in oil and implied that I was a little dim. I found him along the interstate that evening with smoke coming from both rear wheels. I pulled in behind him and offered to call the boss and tell him to send a wrecker  ffcheesy

But you are winning the battle and it will feel great when it is done from your efforts.  ffcool ffcool ffwave

I'm all smiles. You'll get'r done Doc.  :sunny: ffsmiley

I have been trying to put up hay between rainstorms and my mower loosing its bearings. Main drum bearings let go. I just did all of them since I had to stop and have the parts sipped in.   Just decided to stop and rebuild all of it and be done.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/55256/IMG_8017.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354385)

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Got it done Saturday waited for a little rain cut it last night supposed to have no rain for 3 days so hopefully will bale Wednesday evening.  Hope this project gets done need to go back to others on going. 

I pulled this old truck outta the weeds a few weeks ago, from the inspection sticker I had parked it 12 years ago. The engine was fine but the electrical gremlins had won. It also has over a half million miles on it and it is beyond "public work". It is too tight back at the cliff to get a truck and trailer turned around, I've made hundreds of trips with a bucketful of rocks or dirt at a time. I need a mini dump.

I had been playing with the dump end, Surplus Center cylinders and a Vevor power pack should be here this week for behind the seat, hopefully it'll work, making it up as I go;
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The wiring harness was shot, yesterday I just ripped it all out and started over putting in "just the facts ma'am" wiring. There's a switch on the dash and a pushbutton for the starter. Chevy HEI on the fender for the firing orders and got the charging system hooked back up. Electric was not Dodge's strong suit.

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I need to do some tidy up but it went down the driveway last night. Brakes would be nice, I need to pick up some new lines. The only windows I could get open were the vents, so that needs some love too.

@Nebraska looks like you got the right hammer.   ffcheesy   Don look like a fair amount of work ahead!

Doc, reading that brought a smile to my face!  You and I live in similar worlds (at least part of the week - the rest of it  you and my wife are in similar worlds).

Paid 3K for the truck 30 years ago.  It is very handy, Ford Alison automatic transmission and single axle duels.  My wife can drive it, if she has to.

Jeeze louise, I was gonna complain about having to swap the alternator this weekend! I'll just keep quiet I guess!  ffcheesy

Yes the direction I got called for a piece of inch and a half pipe to protect the 1 inch threaded part of the shaft everything rides on then beat away. My 2 pound hammer didn't work.  I was told by the dealer they set them on their forklift forks with blocking so I used my small set of forks and did the same. Took two pieces of pipe to manage.

what was the Jaws quote by sheriff Brody?  "I think you're gonna need a bigger hammer'! ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy

Been pretty lucky around the farm this spring and summer so far, equipment have just been working. I am probably due for bad things to start happing with some equipment. I sure don't miss the old hyd brakes on the old grain trucks. Air brakes are a god sent for farm trucks that don't get used everyday.   Doc glad you got back up and running. Nebraska. Lot of grass hay got put down in this area over the weekend. We could use a rain down here. 

I could spare a little for a while. See if I can send some  70 miles or south. Left some tracks cutting hay a few times. 

Quote from: Nebraska on June 24, 2024, 10:14:49 AMYes the direction I got called for a piece of inch and a half pipe to protect the 1 inch threaded part of the shaft everything rides on then beat away. My 2 pound hammer didn't work.  I was told by the dealer they set them on their forklift forks with blocking so I used my small set of forks and did the same. Took two pieces of pipe to manage.

That looks similar to a Deutz-Fahr drum mower I had years ago. Bought it from a barn for $150. PO said it needed "a bearing"  ffcheesy Well, it needed not only bearings but the spindles rebuilt and machined because they ran it so long with bad bearings. Completely rebuilt that sucker and while just two drums it cut great! Sounded like a big turbine spinning up.

Ran it for a couple years and upgraded to a Krone 8' disc cutter when upgraded tractor and started making 5x6 bales.

Yes, it's a lot of work but gratifying when you're finished and all is working well :thumbsup:

zzzzzzzzzzzzit was hot today, but as the title implies, I was in the shade under some trees and as the state I am from implies, had a nice 10 mph breeze.  had on the safety shirt so when the sweat lines meet in the middle it is time for a break.  got the hose on and the compartments buttoned up just in time.  

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We had a saying at work that covered those times when a 10 minute job led into 3-4 other things that shot your day or worse, "I got stuck in a sequential vortex". Happens too often.

That's like my shirt once the first tank of gas has burned through the clearing saw in the 90 degree stuff.  Only there ain't no dry spots. :sunny: :thumbsup:

 Pat McManus devoted a story to sequences, and the vortex. He knew of that which he spoke😊

I had the oil in my bobcat turning milky grey, thinking head gasket. My forklift repair dropped in to look at and says, nope not a head gasket, then it wouldn't start, so while he was there he changed the points which were burnt out , started and then I changed the oil ...man that water pump is kind of grinding, 
I called the local shop, 1200$ oh my poor heart. I called the bobcat guy an hour away...$800 ..getting better. Looked up eBay and ended up with a Tractor supply # 2 hours away. Chatted with this great lady who says leave the info with me and I'll get back to you. Well she called me back 1hr later, $300 delivered to your door with a gasket and it will be there Monday. Pays to shop around. 4 hrs to change the water pump and my little kitty is purring again. 
I've been running the bobcat a few hours a week and no more milky oil..Bonus. My buddy thinks it was just condensation from the cold and warm where it's stored. The sun warms up the shed pretty warm in the cold weather. 

You do know Doc there are dump trucks for sale out there newer than 1976... ffcheesy



Project I got called in to help on last weekend...
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My customer with the all electric pickup wanted to mount the body of his newly painted Model T onto the chassis. Took 5 guys and 2 forklifts (maybe overkill ffcheesy ), but we got the pieces "married" together. :thumbsup:

Quote from: barbender on June 24, 2024, 10:09:50 PMPat McManus devoted a story to sequences, and the vortex. He knew of that which he spoke😊

That is probably where our use of the term originated, I've read many of his stories and even a book or two.

yeah res, I do not even see the dump bed on that ol thing!   ffsmiley ffsmiley ffsmiley  sweet ride.

I think Henry had put a dump bed on one in the buildup to WWI.

No dump box going on that one. I think he's putting a rumble seat on the back, that'll be the only "cargo" it will haul. ffwave
Have heard of farmers back in the day cutting the bodies down to make them into pickups (or going a step further and making them into tractors). move_it

 I meant to reply to that. We can buy a cab and chassis easily nowadays and have it fitted out.  In the early years they were factory building that as an engine bay to the firewall and chassis and then a coachbuilder of some level did the cab and the rest of the body. I think that build was called a model TT.

This came the other day, a 12 qt 12V electric/ hydraulic pump.
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I made it to the hydraulic shop today for hoses;
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and hit the go button

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This is the upper cylinder connection and 2 of those 1" blocks with a 1" hole

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In the background left you can see a partially painted quarter of a tank with some 3" channel welded to one edge. I've made 2 for the sides, still need to find the headache end.

I had to loosen the hose and push to get it to go down. It will be heavier but I'm going to wish I had bought a setup with power up and down.  I'm fighting too much geometry I think.

Time for dinner and a movie but got it to here today... I need a better grade of worn out battery, that pump is a 200 amp draw  ffcheesy.

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Welding on a lined water tank probably isn't the best and it brought another thread to mind. I remembered something today and someone was talking about their wire not sticking. Flux and solid core run opposite polarity.

That is turning out real nice for a scrap rig  :thumbsup:

Re: mig, working for a guy that asked me to take some stuff home and weld it. Well there is a brand new looking Lincoln in the corner of the shop??? Yeah but I bought it 10 years ago and it doesn't work! Won't weld, had a welder buddy look at it and he said 110 migs are all junk anyway. I swapped the wires and it still welded like a new one should (great)

I had a 110 welder for a while. did great!!
But could only weld about 15 minutes at a time and then it would kick out and I would have to wait for it to cool off.   smiley_thumbsdown
No sense in cutting all the metal for a project.  smiley_furious3
Needed something to do when it kicked out.
Bought a 220 when I moved here. Can weld for as long as I want now.  :wink_2:

The duty cycle is not great but a 110 flux core glue gun is a redneck's good buddy in a pinch or otherwise. My Lincoln is 22 years young and has fed miles and miles of wire, used and abused but worth every penny.

Still forging ahead on the ol dump truck.  4 days of temps over 100.  the safety shirt alarm went off.  the sweat lines met in the middle.   The brakes are together and just need bled.  the carb is still not right, and I am sure it is simple (when I find the problem) as it ran great prior to replacing the accelerator diaphragm.

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Doc, you suppose to drink the beer.  Not pour it on your shirt. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy :snowball:

I go the long way.  I drink it then it pours out on my shirt and on the ground!   ffcheesy ffcheesy

I will be shade tree turning a couple of wrenches tomorrow morning.  My sawmill blade drive belt chirped yesterday morning so it gets adjusted under a Beech tree, so shade it is.  smiley_sweat_drop

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Looks like you have good tilt angle to get the stuff out of the box.

I made a 4'x8' dump trailer once for behind a tractor it had a single 3" cylinder and with the cylinders placed like yours with the rod towards the back of the dump bed and the cylinder to the front of the frame, it would not lift much so we ended up switching them around so the rod was attached to the bed towards the front and the cylinder end towards the back of the frame. Looked odd but would lift way more. It also would stand the box straight up but then would not lower on its own hooked up as a single acting cylinder so we got a second hose and made it power up and down. Your cylinders have quite of bit more angle to them when closed so probably not going to be a issue. ffsmiley

My primary GPS on my boat quit working a few weeks ago. It is obsolete and Garmin does not make an antenna that is designed for it anymore.  Anyway, a Garmin 19x antenna should work with it if we solder in a resistor wire and do everything just right.  The instructions that came with the antenna were vague and the internet info was questionable.  I'll call the tech guy in the morning and hopefully he has the patience to talk me through it. 

The biggest challenge is getting into the console of my 89 Proline.  The opening is 9 3/4"x 20 something.  I went into it twice and needed help to get out the second time (too many biscuits).  I used to own a Dusky and two grown men could enter the console and sit on buckets and work on wiring or steering.  This boat requires an elf or a contortionist to change a fuse or add an electronic device. 

The price was right, and it has caught a lot of fish, but DanG, what a Pita.
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Thankfully, JMoore was there to move my Gerber tool to a position that would allow me to escape, otherwise I would have exited without anything on below the waist. 

If I went in there a lot, I would enlarge the hole and make a new cover.

Caveman
Can you send in a daughter to do the job? 

Quote from: caveman on July 15, 2024, 10:02:30 PMotherwise I would have exited without anything on below the waist. 

sure glad ya didn't hafta post dat photo ffcheesy  ffcheesy  ffcheesy

 Magic would've 😂

 Thankfully, I am of a size that someone else usually gets volunteered for those "restricted access" areas.

I have had my youngest daughter go into the console to do some tasks before.  She did not get home until late last night and it was so hot inside there that I would not have asked anyone else to go in there anyway.  

Barbender, I'm not really a tiny fellow and I'm certainly not built to be going in and out of tiny hatches.

The 4wd went out on my Branson Tractor again last week. The last time it went out it spent a month in the shop but only cost a little over $500 to fix. I decided to to give it go myself this time. I was very disappointed at what I found while tearing it down. The mechanic must have had a hangover that day. The bolts holding the lower half of the right-hand final drive were all loose, half to point of falling out. You cant see them when the tire is on the tractor. They are recessed into the wheel. After I opened up the axle I discovered I needed a bigger set of snap ring pliers. A trip to Natchez and I had a pair of 12" snap ring piers that made an impossible job easy as pie. I then discovered that I had to remove both axles to be able to remove the differential. After the left axle was removed I found three of the six blots holding the ring ear to the differential were laying in the bottom of the axle casing. The other three were there too, but only about half as long. Once I finally got it all taken down I found that three bolts had just fallen out and the other three had sheared off in the differential. Well the bolts were  not the correct ones for the application. They were too long and did not have a shoulder to take up the small amount of clearance in the ring gear. They added some lock washers to try to keep them from coming out again, but obviously that didn't work. I bought some more bolts locally and cut them to the correct length just so I could put it all back together again. I'll have to do this all over again at least one more time to put the correct bolts in. I couldn't find any metric shoulder bolts. I had to drill out 2 of the broken bolts but got lucky with the third one, I used a couple picks to worry it out. It's all back together and working again now. During the tear down I discovered that both tie rods are worn completely out on the hydraulic end. I knew one was bad but didn't realize how bad it really was. It's a wonder they haven't turned loose already. I found a dealer that can get the parts I need so I'll get them all ordered today. It's still going to be over $500 for all the parts I need along with the cost of the pliers and 2 gallons of oil. But I know what I've got now and it was only down a couple days instead of a month. At least the tractor is still usable until they come in. I really can't do without it anymore.

I am amazed at the incredibly small access port!  I'm surprised the factory techs didn't mutiny and keel haul the designer!

Installing an NEMA0183 antenna is a little black magic, but reliable once you get it working.

QuoteThankfully, I am of a size that someone else usually gets volunteered for those "restricted access" areas.

And I'm usually the smallest (and youngest) guy on the construction crew, so guess who is volunteered (or voluntold) to do those jobs...? ffcheesy 
Like to crawl up into the roof, through the truss chords and insulation, to put in solid blocking to hang a chandelier.

Good deal on getting your tractor back in action.

I'm going to look for a bigger hatch.  We gave up on it last night and I read some more instructions from a captain I found on another site.  After I got everything grounded and powered up I was anxiously awaiting the GPS to find satellites.  It did not, so I hauled it outside of the shop and before I could get back into the boat, it had acquired satellites.  The last time it had a location was at Anna Maria Island, which is 66 miles away by crow.

I dread going back into the console to tidy up the wiring and may try to do an adequate job through the hatch.  Either today or tomorrow it'll get a new water pump impeller.  
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I really did not expect this to work but to my surprise it did.  All of the connections were soldered, liquid taped, heat shrinked and liquid taped again.  Hopefully there will be no corrosion issues.

YellowHammer, I suspect that they originally wired this boat before the console was installed.  Several years ago, when my uncle owned it, we rewired quite a bit of it.  There is a 3" chase pipe under the floor that has a joint that someone did not put enough glue/cement on at the factory which makes pulling wires a real treat.  I always try to pull and leave a string any time I remove a wire.

Boats always seem to require some attention, especially old boats used in salt water.

Boats do require attention! I just re powered the Carolina Skiff 198DLV with a new Suzuki 115 4 stroke. Replaced everything, cables, shifter cables, steering cable, everything. Upgraded to NMEA2000 with all the adapters and extensions so I could benefit from gauge display on the Garmin unit. Finally got engine proped right and transom height correct. Much better going from the old Yamaha 90 to the 115.

You are correct, fishing everything thru the underfloor pipe is a PITA.

Also replaced the brake vacuum booster on my friend's 2003 S10 Blazer last week. Anyone here ever do that job?

 Res, I'd be pointing right at you when they came looking for volunteers😊

i replaced the one on the old dump truck and master cylinder.  not bad as you can get to it easy with the step off.

No step off on the Blazer :veryangry:

Had to replace the water pump on my Massey Furguson tractor.This makes the second time I've replaced it.The first time was approximately 20years ago and amazingly this water pump cost less than the last one.They both were aftermarket but the last time the dealer ordered it for me and probably tacked on several dollars.$80 this time and around $150 the last time.Can't really complain as I ask a lot from this little tractor and haven't had much trouble with it.

sadly, and fortunately, it has been 20 years so you did not have to do it soon but may not remember all the stuff you had to do to get it off!   ffsmiley

so cleaned up the old larger tube nut and replaced it on the line.  still had to be just right to start the threads.  filled the differential.  need to bleed the brakes and the carb is still not quite right.  I plan to readjust the needle and seat, and poss take out the washer I added to take the loose out of one of the shaft ends to see if that messed something unforeseen up.  the dump truck is done.  I did take time with my son to spray a nice dark grey paint on the dual wheels so it will look a little cleaned up sitting in the yard.  

Doc,
       You know the rules. :snowball:   If you don't post photos, it didn't happen. ffcool ffcheesy ffwave

Always something comes up that needs tinkering on. Me, I have to replace band wheel tires on the old shop bandsaw. Worked perfect the last time it was used. But they get old and stretched and then want to slip off the wheels.  smiley_thumbsdown

I was having troubles with my 2001 EFI 200 Merc outboard. Just not idling and stalling. I put in a new set of plugs runs great now. I am amazed that the plugs in our trucks will last 100,000 miles now and the plugs in that motor are done after 20 hours of service. no rhyme or reason. 

I rarely even think about spark plugs in gasoline automobiles anymore.

I agree and my 6.2 Ford has 16 plugs.  :shocked2:

Quote from: barbender on July 24, 2024, 09:13:52 PMI rarely even think about spark plugs in gasoline automobiles anymore.

I've had a couple of instances where small engines were running fine.  When I shut them down, they wouldn't restart.

In each case, when the resistor plugs were replaced the problem went away.  Now if I buy replacement plugs, I try to get non-resistor versions.

I've had diesel trucks since 2002.  Before that was a 1998 Jeep with inline six.  You could see everything.  Everything easy to reach too.
 I went to change my daughter's 2003 Ram 1500 spark plugs and I couldn't find the plugs.  Where did you hid them? :huh?
Wait what?  Under the coil?  Where's the coil?
6 coils you say? :uhoh:
I felt like I was in Walmart after they shuffle the aisles around.  I knew they were there, but couldn't find them.

 Kinda what I was getting at, was that I use to change plugs and wires on my vehicles as routine maintenance. Now, they've moved into the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" category for me. There's several reasons for that.

 First, as much as we complain about the complexity of modern engines, they are just much more maintenance free. If a rig is running exactly the same at 100,000 miles as it was at 20,000, I'm not changing components just because. 

 Second, modern engines are much more difficult to work on, when you do have to. Transverse mounted V6 engines? Those plugs aren't getting changed by me😁

 Third, I drive diesel pickups 😊 So if something needs plugs, it ain't mine😂

New rear pads and rotors on 2018 JGC.  57000 mi going to take the old rotors to OReillys. Wife happy. A nice little job more satisfying than shoveling money at the dealer.

New leaf springs and bolts , new UFP/Dexter zinc rotors and aluminum/SS calipers on 2017 Shorelandr 3500# axle surge brake trailer. Nothing much left of the old ones. New plan is to rinse brakes with salt away solution at the boat launch right away after both launch and takeout. Did that once already only takes a few minutes each time. I have a my Four sons electric sprayer that makes it really easy about 4 gallons total gives a great wash. Have to lie down on the pavement and reach under a little bit messy.

Accessory belt idler on a 5.4 Ford. Bearing started making a horrible noise on the way home the other day. Not making noise the next morning when i looked under the hood. Wasn't turning either though! Belt was just sliding by. Freed it up, and the noise was back.
$30 and one bolt, if one doesn't count removing a bunch of plastic and the rad hose so I could get a socket onto said bolt.
Turning now, and no more rattle.

Last week it was new rotors and pads on the front. Truck sat most of the winter and developed a rust patch under the pads. I'd hoped a month of driving would wear it off, but no such luck. Stops mucc better now, and my leg doesn't bounce up and down as it does.

Picked up a 1993 Subaru Impreza Outback for my daughter to drive. Great little car when its working right.

It had a problem with the speedometer cable setup.  Cable goes from the dash to the top of the transmission.  There is a piece there that fits into the transmission and mates with a shaft that is driven by the transmission.  The bearing in this piece gave out.  When that happens it gets jammed and the nylon drive gear at the bottom of the shaft gets stripped out.

The top piece of course is not available.  I searched far and wide and found one in Latvia.  But I say no way am I gonna give them my card number.  Then I found 15 of them in Australia which makes sense since its a Subaru Outback.  I ordered two.

So I am looking for the speedo gear and the Subaru site says that's not available either.  I talked with a Subaru parts guy and he said he had a couple of folks who are pretty miffed about it.  So I keep looking and decided to stroll through the 25 other gears listed on the parts website.  I found one that looked the same and was thinking about ordering it.  Then I saw the "check to see if this fits your vehicle" box, entered the info and it said it would fit.  So I emailed the Subaru guy and ordered it.  He was apologetic and said he would have the website updated with a superseded parts link.

Just another day.

My Kubota is down again.I think I bought a money pit.Quit pulling yesterday and a awful noise coming from bell housing area.Tore it down today and found splines gone in clutch disc.Parts are pretty high but I've got to much investeforestryforumd to stop (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/FC95EA4B-20D8-4D44-AE14-A2C047BF287D.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354904)

So you are saying you got an orange colored lemon?

Don't really know what to do about the clutch in my little tractor.Although I've been a mechanic my entire working life I have never saw the splines completely gone in a clutch disc.The machine gave no warning and didn't make any noise until it failed.Pressure plate and throw out bearing seem ok but splines on input shaft are worn.I ordered a aftermarket clutch disc and found a used shaft online.It's a major job to change shaft and I'm thinking about just replacing disc for now and see how long it will last.Has anyone had any experience with this sort of thing?

I have never experienced anything like that either and I have been driving muscle cars and manual transmissions all my life.

Lubrication was probably poor or non-existent.  Test fit the disk on the replacement shaft and your trans input shaft and get an idea of how bad the splines are on the trans shaft.  They have to be pretty badly worn or chewed up.

Even without seeing it, I personally would opt for replacement of the shaft.  Of course, you would have to disassemble the trans so a rebuild is in store too.

We both know it is likely you end up in the same place again in the near future without a proper fix.

Without pictures we are just guessing. But if the plate slides onto the shaft and fits snugly without play when turning clockwise and counterclockwise you should (famous last words) be good but that shaft has to be worn atleast I would think. Pictures will speak 10 million words

Well, have been busy with many things.  Trying to hire new docs for a transition to being employed by the hospital.  Planning my wife's BD party, the gi-hugic 60.  I did get the carb. floats adjusted on the truck.  got all the brake lines on.  painted the wheels that were off and back on.  still some issue that is prob. simple with the carb.  it idles perfectly, but nearly dies when you open the throttle.  plenty of gas going in, so prob. flooding not a lack of fuel.  trying to figure how/who to find/fix this issue.

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Accelerator pump.  It should give a squirt of gas when the pedal is quickly depressed.

Thanks Lynn.  That is what started this.  the truck sits more than not.  when working on the brakes, it developed a big leak at that diaphragm and why I replaced the accelerator pump.  it seems to work with a big squirt.  I did add a washer to take slop out of a shaft, so I may remove that.  it allows for a manual throttle knob vs a foot feed to be used.  I cannot see how that would affect it.  but it has to be something simple I did, because even with the bad accelerator pump, it idled and throttled up normally.  This Holley has a governor.  state model under President Carter (no longer the worst president we ever had IMHO).  so, it tops out at 60 mph.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE4LsFgPw2c

Pumping the accelerator before cranking was a habit that we all had to break as carburetors were phased out.  I had to think a bit before remembering that squirt during a quick acceleration instance.

I got the whole carb kit with what seems like a thousand O rings and gaskets.  It is a little more complex with a vacuum assisted secondary to the 4 barrels.  I have been told it could be a bad power valve, but it is getting plenty of fuel.  also, may have damages something like the big diaphragm to the secondary barrels.  I do not know enough to test what is working and not.  I may try replacing some of these things, but it worked fine but for the leak.  It is possible that other rubber components are rotted but did not fail till I stressed it.  It did something weird one time when i put it on and was going full throttle and had to pull the linkage back.  After that it went back to the prev. behavior of when I hit the gas, it almost dies.  It is also harder to find old guys that understand these carbs.  Hard to tell who really knows about them.  The guy who claims to know all about them, may know far less than the guy who claims to know a little.  Kind of like the veteran who tells all kinds of detailed stories vs the one who says little.  The latter may have seen the most horrific crap.

I have the stuff to rebuild the whole carb.  I would be more interested if it worked ok, as it may be something dumb I did, and prob. simple.  The more I "fix", the more things are possible that I did wrong.  It comes with good instructions.  Not the time to adjust the timing as an example.   :wink_2:

Doc.  I had a similar problem on an old ford like yours around 30 plus years ago. it turned out to be a intake manifold leak. when hitting the accelerator try pulling on the choke and it will help firing up if in fact you do have an intake leak. In fact it could be a vacumn leak at some other source as well. Sorry I didnt take the time to go back and see if this had already been mentioned. Those big ol vintage ford v8s were notorious for the issue you have    Hope this might help     Jack  

Not sure why, but the problem sticks in my mind that it was "vacuum advance" related. Hope you track it down, whatever it is. 

Doc, for a vacuum leak, spray carb cleaner (while idling) all around the carb and any suspected area, like hoses and blocked off ports.  If the engine revs up, that is where your leak is.  Intake manifold leaks are vacuum leaks.

Bad thing about carb rebuild kits is they usually have left over parts.  So you really don't know if you used all you suppose to use.  After taking the carb apart, soak it in an ultrasonic cleaner.  Wore out butterfly shaft(s) might be the culprit too.

I tried the spray test.  no change in rpms.  new gasket under carb.  floats are set to factory spec.  It may be a linkage thing, but the butterfly's open on the primary half.

Pic of my input shaft.Machine sat for years before I got it and thinking clutch splines may have rusted.Machine is hydrostatic drive and clutch is only used to engage PTO.Sorry Doc I can't give any input on your problem. I've forgot most things I knew about carburetors.(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/68995/C41295BD-090C-4A8D-A61B-2F18E13E313A.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=354925)

looks mostly worn where the clutch plate splines engaged.  I would think once turning, the splines would take up the slack and run fine.  

Years ago I had a Holley 1850 (?) and rebuilt it.  It still didn't run right.  I took it to a carb shop and was told the butterfly shaft was worn.  The butterfly worked, but the wear allowed internal leakage, as I remember.  He told me to replace the carb.

But your might want to do an online search on fuel injector kits to replace the carb for you engine.

Or just replace the carb.

But first I would search for a local speed shop to inquire about a qualified carb guy who can help you.

Or even ask the local heavy truck repair shops.

when I mention the governor all the guys so far take a step back.  That is why I do not just replace it as there are functions that I am not sure how to bypass so they do not mess with it.  It is a 361 honey of a oney and has a 4-speed ford Alison automatic transmission.

Again Doc  apply some choke as you  accelerate if it helps then go for vacumn leaks. No it doesnt fix the problem it helps source it. I see you changed the vac boost how about the hose that connects it to the manifold. Start eliminating any vac lines off the manifold. 
as you said where are the old guys well I am one and have been there big time in my younger days A very common problem back then. 

vacuum running 17 to 20.  great info.

 I have an '02 GMC Duramax that has a fuel restriction or air leak. The LB7 first gen Dmax are notorious for this as they have neither mechanical or electric lift pump and the injection pump has to pull fuel all the way from the tank. 

 There's several companies with products to solve your problems. FASS being one, with a lift pump/filter kit that runs about $450. To me, this is something you install with oversize tires, lights, and a tuner- I don't need or want any of that. So I am I'm the middle of swapping in the same $25 Amazon 12v fuel pump that I replaced the mechanical pump with on my diesel sawmill engine. If it doesn't work out, I'll spring for a more expensive pump. But I suspect it will do fine 

 I can have lots of spares and I mounted it where I can swap one in 20 minutes😁

@Wlmedley Sorry to say but that shaft looks like it is toast.  It would only be a short while until the clutch disc would be wobbling badly if not stripped out.  There is a tremendous amount of force going through the hookup when engaging and proper mating surfaces are needed to bear the strain.

I'd say your right and probably wishful thinking on my part.I tore the thing down outside because it gets pretty hot in the garage and I can see better. I bought a aftermarket clutch disc although I haven't received it yet so I'm thinking when I get it I will probably put it back together and try to make it until mowing season is over and tear it back down this winter inside and fix it properly.I'll only be out a $70 clutch disc and shaft will be replaced anyway.Kubota is sure proud of their parts.

 The Duramax- Amazon fuel pump was a success, got it all hooked up. Not scientifically verified, but it flows half a 32 Oz Gatorade bottle in about 10 seconds up at the fitting right off the filter head. 

 Truck runs great and has power again👍👍

@doc henderson I have experience in Holly carbs.  My 1970 Chevelle has one on it now.

So we are talking a 600cfm Holly 4bbl carb, manual choke, vacuum secondaries on a Ford 361 engine?

The accelerator pump attaches at the drivers side rear of the carb on the underside.  When you replaced the pump diaphragm, did you turn the carburetor over?  The way to do it is to put a large punch in a vise, sit the carb on the vise with the punch through a bolt hole and swap it out from underneath.  When the carb is turned over, accumulated dirt in the bowls goes everywhere and easily clogs up passages in the metering blocks.

If you did this, I would recommend a full rebuild.  It is not hard but takes thoroughness, cleanliness and a clear work area.  You also need a bath to soak the carb in.  The carb cleaner needs time to seep into the passages and work on the dirt.  You agitate it a few times during the soak to try and get air out of the passages.  The key is to use compressed air to blow out all the passages(both directions if possible).  I remember one time hearing the clog come out of a passage.  You can also use a can of carb cleaner with the red tube to blow the cleaner into the passages.  As noted, an ultrasonic cleaner would be useful, but you still want to blow out the passages.

Also, when I blew out a power valve on my holley, it simply just dumped gas into the intake.  My idle was all over the place and it sounded like I was revving the engine a bit. So I doubt that is your issue.

The governor can be removed from the carbs but you probably want to leave it.  Driving a behemoth like that loaded at speed might overwhelm the brakes.

Many folks typically go for a new carb at this point as the new ones are far superior to the old ones and its an easy way out of the dilemma. Unfortunately, the price tag is $400+.  Folks also use an Edelbrock AFB carb.

I was hoping it was simple.  I do have an ultrasound machine and have the dip carb cleaner.  I can do all that.  My dad, uncles and brothers have done all this.  I do not remember the cfm, and the 400 bucks would have been worth it by now, but I do not know the unintended consequences of transplanting another carb onto this.  the accelerator pump is on the bottom drivers-side front of the carb.  the vacuum secondary is on the right, and the throttle and accel pump assembly mechanism is on the drivers-side.  good info.  I will update when it is working normal again.  thanks all.

Did you mean Ultra sonic cleaner, instead of ultrasound machine?  I couldn't get a log splitter carb cleaned out completely, until I put it in the shop's ultra sonic cleaner.

Yes, I did!  thanks Tim.  I am taking Benadryl and med for a cold.  musta conflated my day job and my hobby projects.   :usa:   :thumbsup:  

 I was wondering just how involved Doc's shade tree mechanic tasks were getting! Lol

still stuck on the carb issue, but really not had much time to work on it.  plan to soak and clean it, and go back on assuming something got clogged in the process of fixing the accel pump.

Quote from: doc henderson on August 05, 2024, 06:07:42 AMYes, I did!  thanks Tim.  I am taking Benadryl and med for a cold.  musta conflated my day job and my hobby projects.  :usa:  :thumbsup: 

Doc,
     I so understand.  Sometimes I call sawmill parts............aircraft parts.  Oh yeah, that thing in your coffee cup is not a spoon, it's a propeller!

If you go back a few, you will see I painted the wheels machine grey.   looks almost like a new truck.

Got my old Kabota put back together.Even though input shaft had some wear clutch disc fit fairly snug and seems to work okay.Yesterday was the hottest day all summer 99F so a shade tree would have been nice.Another plus is while I had fuel tank off I got fuel gauge fixed which hadn't worked since I got it and was aggravating wondering how much fuel I had.Don't know why I was in a hurry to get tractor back together as we are in a drought and grass and weeds are dying.

Trucks been having trouble starting and rough idle (fine once she warms up), so I thought I'd throw a few parts at it... First 7 spark plugs and wires took about an hour. Number 8 here was 3 hours worth of sweat running into my glasses, and 1 trip to the store.

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I will now be taking her to the gas station for a selection of cold carbonated rewards beverages... Hope I make it bacK!  ffsmiley

Well if you get to the store and you don't make it back, you will have something cold to drink.  ffcheesy

That plug looks fine, why did you change it?  ffcheesy

Well, certainly not a mechanic, but I'm about to try.
My Excavator decided not to run this year, in fact mid way thru last year. My BIL, a retired mechanic worked on it , put in about 6-8 hrs aand said he is dont working on it.
He was trying to work thru a 10x12" opening once a cover was removed. From there he could reach the starter with one hand but could not see what he was doing. This year I deceded to get into the starter. I had to remove all the wires on the back of the instrument panel, label each, then remove the panel. Then I had to remove the ROPS with the roof. A few other things like a safety rail, the seat, some hydraulic valves and the air filter mounted under the engine cover. Then I removed the bolts holding the engine cover (I'll call it the hood from here on, it likely weighs 150 lbs) and finally I could lift the hood off using the forks on the tractor and 3 ratchet straps. I watched close to make sure nothing was not proceeding as desired and finally I'm now able to see the starter.
My next step is to try to find the issue. I can use help here, as I said, I'm not a mechanic. I have the battery fully charged. I'm thinking I need to wire the ignition switch back to the 6 terminals on the switch. Then I'll removed the hot from the battery, and unhook the hot wire from the battery to the starter, clean the contact and reassemble. Then I'll test the wire that activates the solenoid, use a multi meter and test for power. If good power I think trying the starter might be next. If anyone can suggest anything, i'm open to ideas.

Ensure all fuses are in place and not blown.  Is it completely dead or do you hear a click when turning the key?  If you have a clicking sound, the first paragraph below can probably be skipped.

Check if there is power to your solenoid energizer wires when you turn the key to start.  If you have no power to the solenoid, trace the wiring.  You likely will find a relay in the circuit.  Run a wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid terminal and crank it.  If the starter works, check continuity from the solenoid to the relay terminal and from the relay to the ignition switch.  If both good, then replace the relay otherwise fix the shorted wire.

If you have power to the energizer wiring of the solenoid, battery power on the cable to the solenoid/starter and hear a click when you turn the key to crank, test the energizer wire voltage.  You may find it less than 12v battery power.  12v needs to be restored to this terminal.  There is a bypass kit available that will restore 12v to the solenoid if replacing the wiring will be too difficult.  The relay might also be the problem here.

If the starter does not crank, make sure there is voltage on the jumper wire.  You can test the jumper wire or the ignition switch terminal to ground.  If there is no voltage, it may be a bad ignition switch.

Check for power on the battery cable to the starter/solenoid.  The solenoid may be on the starter or be separate from the starter motor.  If the solenoid is mounted separately, check for battery power going to the solenoid and then battery power on the cable after the solenoid when the ignition switch is turned to crank.  If there is no battery power between the solenoid and starter, replace the solenoid.

Thank you rusticretreater, I printed your suggestions, heading down to test it. I'll let you know if it helped or if I figure what the issue is. that will take a few days, I need to do it between a bunch of other things going on.

Well, I still need to bleed the brakes on the old state dump truck.  i went to split a few slabs on the log splitter and it did not run right.  bogged and spit out a bunch (like mosquito fogger) of white gray smoke.  pulled a plug to see if fouled or full of oil.  Original differential diagnosis, broken ring vs needle and seat, float issue.  both plugs were damp.  turned the key and out shot a stream of gas that impacted the cylinder 2 feet away.  had a lot of shrouds and stuff to loosen and or remove to get to this carburetor.  It had an integrated air cleaner and fuel tank on top. 

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the hardest part was finding the engine number it is very faintly inscribed on the valve cover.  there is a family and eu number on a sticker on the shroud and lots of numbers on the Nikki carb.  after I found the number, I had already cleaned and tested and reassembled.  My local Stihl dealer had the needle with a rubber tip.  would have to order a float, but it is fine, and a whole carb kit is 130 bucks, a new carb is over 300.  It is back and running now and I will get the parts for the next time it sticks and floods by cylinders on this 18 hp overhead valve engine.
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On my excavator hopful fix, I only had time to get the ignition switch ready, to reconnect, get the multi meter ready and get the wrenches ready, then I got a honey do call. Tomorrow I'll need to do some spraying but then I can try to get more done on the project.
Looking at all of the other posts in this thread, I better get some pictures and re learn how to enter them in of mygallery so they can appear in my posts. I'll try, all my life I've not been good at remembering to snap pictures, I need to work on it for sure.

Still no progress on the excavator, most days it was raining so I worked in the sugarhouse running power from my off grid solar, taking it off my grid tied solar. When finished I'll have 2 sources, 2 recepticles side by side. One labeled grid the other labeled solar. This is for my water jacketed bottler. It's 240V but only 20A, I can run it with either. I'll also set up my vacuum pump with 2 sources. My choice is to run using the solar when the battery charge is good enough and use the grid only when needed. At issue is what the utility charges me to send them power over the wires I had to buy. Back in 2012 they charged a wire fee of $22 each month, now it's slightly more than doubled. As such, since my excess goes toward my home electric bill I'm trying to use more of the off grid part so I get more of my grid power running my meter backwards. 
I'm also running the lights using the off grid system. That system only has 4 AGM 12V batteries 200AH wired in series but most of the time the charge on the bank is full. If I need to I'll double the battery bank to 48V 400 AH. Thus I'm working to use the off grid more. 
That system has in addition to the 48V battery bank has a 1480 watt of solar and a 60A charge controller with a 4860 inverter (48V 6000 watts continuous or 12,000 watts surge) For the period from 2012 until earlier this year both my 4840 watt array which is grid tied only and my 1480 watt array  which was set to charge the battery bank then send all excess to the grid. Because of the current world situation I seperated the 2 systems and removed the grid tie on the 1480 watt portion. If the grid goes down, I'll still have the off grid portion because unlike the grid it's hardened.
Now I'm pulling a few loads off the grid and moving them to the off grid.
Then today we had a dry day so I worked on getting my Woodland Mills HM130MAX running. It had not been run since November. The electric start clicks but the starter doesn't spin, I'll work on that later. For now, I just added fresh fuel and checked the oil. It didn't start. Then I opened the carb bowl drain and caught what drained out, no water. Then with fresh fuel in the carb it started first pull. I then tensioned the blade to specs , started it again and made just one 1/8" thick cut to make sure it was good, that did well. In the next few days 
i'll be sawing hemloch for my needs and a friend has a few logs i'll saw for him. 
one is a sycamore, which I've never sawed. I'll see how is goes. He just bought a building he's converting back to a restaurant (it was one back about 12-15 yrs ago). He wants to make his own tables for the restaurant using logs he cut.
After that I'll get back to the excavator and try to figure out what the issue is. I have a whole list of things to check.
Lastly, I'll try to get some pictures, all my life I've been very poor at getting pictures, I need to work a lot harder on it so you don't say "no pictures, it didn't happen"

Custom wrench for adjusting JD 440 skidder winch is the same custom wrench needed to disconnect pressure line from f350 power steering pump (pulley too close to fitting). Get lucky once in a blue moon

I'm still at war with a pair of Husqvarna chainsaws of which,at the moment are winning a 281 and a 2100 CD .It could be the carbs or the fact on these high compression saws ,because of my age I can't spin them over fast enough to generate a good spark .As a general rule it takes the same relative speed as 600 rpm's to get a good spark .

Today I got to a couple of items on the to-do list that I have been putting off for quite some time.  I burned up the starter on the '74 Bronco several months ago while trying to start it with a weak battery.  It is front of other vehicles in our shop/garage, and I wanted to verify that it would run since it had been so long since I started it-probably four months.  John came by this morning, and he pulled it out with the tractor.  I filled the carburetor bowl with gas, and he pulled me about 15-20 feet down the driveway.  Third gear was just right to start it easily.  I drove it up and down our road a time or two and confirmed that the starter was toast.  I ordered another and installed it.  Sometimes I procrastinate instead of just fixing stuff.  It took longer to run to town to get the starter than it did to replace it, and the parts store is only four or five miles away.  My oldest daughter and son in law brought a bull over to visit our heifer.  Morgan (daughter) likes to drive the Bronco, so I had her try out the new starter and drive it around a bit while I was putting away tools.


While on a roll, I decided to fix the flat on my skiff's trailer.  I have not used that boat in at least a year and a half.  The tire was easier than it could have been so onto the 90 hp Evinrude that has not been started in a long time.  The last couple of times that I ran it, it ran but I kept having to hit the enrichment to keep gas in the carbs occasionally.  I noticed a fuel leak at the filter while priming the fuel line.  I unscrewed the filter to ensure I bought the right one on my next trip to town.  As I unscrewed the filter, I noticed one of my trolling motor battery wires was pinched between the filter and the housing (Doh!).  Some of the fuel line was replaced with alcohol resistant marine fuel line just a couple of years ago.  It was separating, so I temporarily replaced it with another section I had from the electric fuel pump we installed years ago after removing the VRO pump (pumped gas and oil).  

To my surprise, the battery I had on the bench turned the engine over and it fired up and ran pretty well.  I just ran it on the ears in the driveway, but I was pleased with the outcome.  I'll try to get it out on the water sometime soon to determine what else it needs.

More stuff to add to the list now:  clean the dirty boat, figure out why the bow light did not come on, repack the trailer hubs, change the water pump impeller, redo the fuel line to the engine and on the engine that I just did a couple of years ago.  The Bronco needs tires and mufflers and a good scrubbing.  The boat is dirtier than it's ever been due to blown in dust.    

Afterwards, my five-year-old grandson wanted to use the "cane" pole we cut a few months ago to try to catch some fish in the pond.  He hooked three before he landed one.

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I bet fishing was the most fun!!

He and I both enjoyed fishing.  The funny thing to me is that he can cast a spinning reel relatively well but is still figuring out the "cane" pole.  

Tomorrow it's going to be coils on my F150. Took it out on the highway pulling the dump trailer yesterday and it got the shakes. Misfires on 1 and 3. I had to change 4 last year. 

QuoteMy customer with the all electric pickup wanted to mount the body of his newly painted Model T onto the chassis. Took 5 guys and 2 forklifts (maybe overkill (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/alienine/cheesy.gif) ), but we got the pieces "married" together. (https://forestryforum.com/board/Smileys/alienine/thumbsup.gif)

Met up with my customer over Labor day weekend, got corrected it's actually a 1930 model "A" (not a "T"). He's made a lot of progress, and watched a short phone video they took of the first start. Hearing the original numbers matching engine run for first time in decades, he was laughing and smiling ear to ear. ffcool

I got the dump truck moveable.  still have to pump the brakes at first.  needs a re-bleeding.  no leaks so far.  Despite the Jimmy Carter era governor, it should run a little faster with the newly painted "machine grey" wheels!

Worth 10HP at least.  Did you rebuild the carburetor?

Now what Doc?  You planning a big project?

It was more of a linkage issue.  it is old.  set the "curb idle up and it works.  it must of been camming over and would not open the butterfly.  It is yard drivable, but not ready to go to the dump.  light at the end of the tunnel.  Have a nice start on an outdoor post and beam (cheat with lags and metal) for a kitchen at the end of the pool.  got lots of help from @Jim_Rogers and will start a thread of its own.  I work 2 night this week, and 4 shifts next and then will some time off.  Of course, still hiring docs for a transition in October.  tons of stuff going on.  good to have the wife's BD and family reunion behind me.

 I've had the parts for the tractor 4wd for about a week or so and finally got a chance to work on it. Tear down was much quicker this time since I had to tear it down recently to make temporary repairs. They had to ship me a differential cage from Korea to make the repairs. It all went back together perfectly. So I'm back in business again. When I finished I decided to take the hood off and try to remove some of the huge dent from the pine tree that tap danced on it. The photo actually looks better than the real thing. It's no where near perfect, but it looks much better now.
 Before:
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After:
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Hood looks real good from here! :thumbsup:

"When ya kinda squint, it looks mint!" (Old car restoration saying). ffcheesy

I found a 14-15 inch crack today on my gooseneck coupler. The scary part is the crack is all rusted. No telling how long it has been cracked. The trailer and coupler was new in 2012. Should I weld it up or replace it?

I am leaning on replacing, as it is a Bull dog coupler. Can I remove the jam nut, unscrew the handle on top and just replace the bottom part? Or will the old one need to be cut out and welded in as a unit?

rust alone did not make that crack.  I would remove it and inspect the upper part and if ok replace the bottom.  It looks like it filled with water and froze, and not in the past 6 weeks.   :sunny: ffsmiley   I would be inclined to contact bulldog, and they may be so embarrassed they fix you up.  Or at least they are aware of this failure and can give insight to you, or fix it on their end.  I would look and see if the bottom of the tube is plugged and holding water.  I think the crack is rusted and the rust did not cause the crack.  Sadly, the parts may all be manufactured overseas, and quality is no longer what is used to be.

You might look to see if this was a seam in the tube, and therefore a poor-quality material.

Doc,
    What I mean by the crack is rusted means it is old, not a new shiny crack.  Contacting Bulldog might help.
I located a new coupler, but my old one's square sides have rounded a little and wedged into the uppper tube.  The welder that fixed my telehandler is gonna come out and weld it so I can take it to a trailer shop.  I will know when the welder gets here if he can unwedge the lower tube.  Trouble is, the crank on top only turns about a quarter turn and gets hard.  Both directions.  Not sure what way to turn it to unscrew it.

With the crack opened up like that it does look like it had had water in it and froze but could just be tension in the tubing that spread as it cracked.

Stuck a bit by expansion or rust (or both) I would be tempted to crank until it gets resistance and tap down on the foot and see if it drops a bit. Another option would be to hook it up to a hitch and do the same but also crank down the dolly legs a bit (lifting up the trailer) to keep some pressure on it.

Disclaimer: I don't know much about gooseneck hitches but I have plenty of experience with rust and stuck things. ffsmiley

Each side of the lower square tube has expanded and is pressing the upper tube at the center of each side.  Like the lower square tube tried to start ballooning  out inside the square upper tube.

I don't wanna start beating on anything until I know...., 1. We can get it apart.  2. we won't make the coupler messed up enough not be able to hitch and move the trailer to a shop if needed and 3. I strained my wrist last week moving to many 8x8s and 4x4s off of the sawmill and stacking. So it hurts to swing a ball peen or sledge hammer.
The problem really is what way does it unscrew so we can reuse the upper parts again.  I think when we know that, we can heat and bang away on it.
Now hitching up and raising the leg jacks might help hold tension during the wacking.  Good idea.  But then again, I don't wanna strain the jackscrew on the coupler in case I have to use that again.

I know it will be clearer after sleeping on it.

May have to find another way to lift the front of the trailer up (hydraulic jack, loader, etc.), and block it up to take the weight off the landing gear. If it is like semi trailers, there is a high gear and low gear for cranking the legs down, and there is also a connecting rod between the two leg gearboxes, any of these could cause the jam up. Also rust can build up inside the legs where they telescope. I would try WD40, grease, and hammering to try to free it up.

mine on the PJ is square but has pins with a set screw and no jack on the hitch.  could attach it to the ball and put a hi reach jack on dunnage to dissipate the force and try to jack it up and turn at the same time.  I also really like blue creeper for an application like this.  drizzle the penetrant down the screw at the top in case it is also rusted as is likely.

Quote from: Resonator on September 16, 2024, 07:15:13 PMMay have to find another way to lift the front of the trailer up (hydraulic jack, loader, etc.), and block it up to take the weight off the landing gear. If it is like semi trailers, there is a high gear and low gear for cranking the legs down, and there is also a connecting rod between the two leg gearboxes, any of these could cause the jam up. Also rust can build up inside the legs where they telescope. I would try WD40, grease, and hammering to try to free it up.

It is not the landing gear jack.  It is the gooseneck hitch coupler.  It has a crank handle to raise or lower the coupler, after loosening the jam bolt.  It is stuck, the crank won't turn and I have no idea which way to force it while banging on it.

My guess is it is standard jack parts, any I have seen is clockwise is lower, if there is any up/down play in the crank shaft it would push the shaft up when trying to lower the stuck leg. I would start with a small hammer.

Where should I start with this hammer?

OK, different then a semi. The few times I pulled a gooseneck behind a pickup, the one I had did not have a jack in the coupler tube itself. Agree with doc blue creeper would be of help on rusted stuck parts. :thumbsup:

When I bought this trailer 12 years ago, it was the first coupler I ever saw that had a jack handle on top.  Probably paid extra for something that never has been used. 

 I can see if you have different pickups with different rear end heights in would come in handy.  Dang thing should have grease fittings on it. ......and drain holes

Replace the whole thing.  Don't try to fix it.  Get it to a shop, safely, have them cut it off and put on a brand new tube and coupler.   It's not cranking, it's got a rusted internal mechanism, and it's a road hazard risk.  In other words, in my opinion, It's done.

I've had trailers come off my truck and it's a bad scene, think of who could be killed if it does.

Cut it off, put on a new one, and get it back on the road safely would be my advice.

That is what I decided to do this evening, YH.  That way any wear from the ball is gone also.
Add a new ball and I will have a tight trailer once again.
Thanks to all who commented!

 Good choice👍

The trailer repair shop thought they could get the lower tube out, but he finally decided the whole coupler needs to be cut out and replaced.  I told him to go with a pin type coupler and not a cranking ice freezing coupler.................$1425

Brought the gooseneck home yesterday.  The guy did a good job.  The new pin adjustable coupler has a drain hole.  My old one didn't.
He cut the upper tube off in five slices with a cutoff wheel.  I'll try to remember photos tomorrow.

How a caveman cleans up after changing oil in his wife's hooptie.  A horizontal filter above a shield is a phenomenal design feature.  I guess next time I'll remove the shield.
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Reminds me of my Dad burning fire ant mounds in the 60s

My truck has the check engine light coming on and showing a low injector circuit fault.  Usually it's cylinder #1 but sometimes another cylinder. 

I can't say I'm working on it, more that I'm puzzling over it.  FICM has been replaced and I'm starting to think it may be either one battery is bad or the voltage regulator is bad due to some readings I'm getting when it's running.

New (non shade tree) coupler and old upper tube cut up.

I made sure it has a drain hole.

When it rains it pours.  Found a planetary gearbox leak last week on the Lull.  I thought it was a small leak and added oil.  Then I saw it pouring out the back side.

Got the tire off today and wiggled the gearbox.  No play on the support bearing.  But the knuckle bearings move about 1/16th.  I am not gonna mess with trying to change those knuckle bearings.  I have seen way worse and still serviceable.

The tire is foam filled and weighs 800-900 pounds.  My backhoe almost wouldn't lift it.  I had to lock the boom up to move it.

Just pressure washed it and will tear into it Monday.  Just ordering an oring and an oil seal for now. 

I have never taken a planetary gearbox apart, so it will be fun.  Funny thing is the gearbox is the same size as on front of my tractor.
It's a Dana/Spicer axle and got the mfg. parts diagram yesterday.....in Italian.  Yep, made in Italy and uses all metric.  Already had to buy a 12mm hex socket to fit the plug.

You only had to buy a 12MM? 
In the north we have to have both sae and metric,
One interesting fact or almost fact, is you can use a metric on a sae, but not the other way around. 
I always have to think where something is made or from to have an idea of the tool size, even USA stuff now has metric in it. 

Being an aircraft mechanic, I already had up to 10MM.  Usually at an airline, the big tools are special tools and supplied by the company and regulated by the FAA.  We only had to have smaller hand tools.  I hardly ever used 3/8 or 1/2 drive sockets and ratchets, unless working on landing gears.  99% of the time I used 1/4 inch drive stuff.
But with my heavy equipment at home, I only have to buy big stuff.
I bought Lull because it was American made.  Who knew the axles were made in Italy? :huh?

A shade past shade tree, I made a sling for installing and removing the Lull's tires.  Waiting on parts.

I never knew that aircraft use mostly small fasteners.
A 10mm wrench is for a M6x1 hex bolt or nut.

Having worked on mainly Japanese machines for the so long I have wrenches/ sockets up to about 36mm and Allen wrenches to 19mm

in fractional/inch, I have a cheap 3/4"drive socket set that I needed to work on tractor implements and other tools for almost anything smaller.

It's when you run into the oddball size or lesser used fastener that it becomes difficult to source the correct tool.

When I removed my pickup bet I had to buy a large external torx plus socket, I forget the size but I used it for 8 bolts and its in my toolbox.

one time at work a Quality Engineer came looking for a socket to fit a certain bolt used in production, it was some really unusual thing that we could not find the correct tool for.
Maybe the have them in Japan, but design engineers  need to think about the rest of the world too.

Aircraft is in it's own fastener universe. Before retirement I worked for a company that made millions of fasteners just for aerospace. I think we would sell $2.6 million dollars in fasteners for every 777 that was built. Some fasteners even had sensors inside of them and the ones to hold composite skins on air surfaces were titanium with a close fitting stainless steel sleeve. Tolerances were very tight. Plus they use tons of specialty captive fasteners for hatches and covers. Much of the work is riveted and very special tools are required for river removal and replacement, the anodizing may not be scratched on the components being riveted. FOD (Foreign Object Debris) such as chips and shavings generated were a major no-no and grounds for stop work orders.

 When I had my own shop I once got an order to make a few hundred penta head bolts, yes, 5 sided bolt heads. These are used in the railroad industry and their own version of tamper proof. I was told they had their own sockets to work those bolts. Just for giggles, I played with one and tried to find a regular socket that would hold the bolt enough to turn it, but no soap. I would hate to be a mechanic in the field who forgot his special socket one day.  ffcheesy

Not me doing the work but vicariously getting my fill of mechanics lately.  

My daughter's car needed some bodywork, fender, hood, headlight and number cover after whacking a deer. Her partner (not married but long term boyfriend?) is doing the work.  Her vehicle is out of commission for a while.  There's that. 

We loaned her my wife's Mazda MX 5, it is just a toy and a 2008 extra car.  She and her significant other decided it needed brake pads.  The car came with upgraded wheels and requires a special lug key to remove the wheels.  They are not cheap sockets to replace.  Eli called saying he couldn't find it.  Since they are 2 hours away, all I could tell him is it was in the glove box last time I needed it.  I didn't hear back from him so I figure he found it.  

My son has an Impala sedan he drives to and from work.  He came by last night to collect some jack stands, floor jack and other tools to replace some steering and suspension components.  I was relieved when he said he didn't need my help!  The only thing I dislike more than laying on the ground working on a car is crawling in a crawl space!

Apparently its tire time for me. 

Son asked for some help getting from drywall sheets for his house over the weekend. He needed 16' sheets for the ceiling, and I had the 14' dump trailer hooked to the truck. As I was squeezing between the tractor I left in the drive way and the shop I got a little too close to the bucket on the mini excavator and slashed the side wall of the tire, it was a new tire this spring. Tire #1 for the day. Hind sight I would have cleared the dew off the windows and mirrors.

Daughter has some stuff in the enclosed trailer she isn't ready for yet in her house, so I had to grab the livestock trailer. The back tire was flat, pumped it up and headed out. While waiting for them to bring out the sheets I glanced at the front tire and notice there was a bulge and the tread was separating. Both tires on that side had more dry rot I had realized, tires #2 & #3. 

I placed an ordered 4 tires so I have an extra. I may just order one more and switch them all out on the livestock trailer instead of just the pair. Probably try to get the 4 I have switched over tonight.

Sometimes on the odd ball fasteners you just have to break out the universal wrench...............



Vise grips or the newer version Knipex Cobras
I do have a pair of pliers that work better than both of them on small screws.
neji-saurus (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NBSVYOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1)

Quote from: Old Greenhorn on October 10, 2024, 08:48:22 AMAircraft is in it's own fastener universe. Before retirement I worked for a company that made millions of fasteners just for aerospace. I think we would sell $2.6 million dollars in fasteners for every 777 that was built. Some fasteners even had sensors inside of them and the ones to hold composite skins on air surfaces were titanium with a close fitting stainless steel sleeve. Tolerances were very tight. Plus they use tons of specialty captive fasteners for hatches and covers. Much of the work is riveted and very special tools are required for river removal and replacement, the anodizing may not be scratched on the components being riveted. FOD (Foreign Object Debris) such as chips and shavings generated were a major no-no and grounds for stop work orders.

 When I had my own shop I once got an order to make a few hundred penta head bolts, yes, 5 sided bolt heads. These are used in the railroad industry and their own version of tamper proof. I was told they had their own sockets to work those bolts. Just for giggles, I played with one and tried to find a regular socket that would hold the bolt enough to turn it, but no soap. I would hate to be a mechanic in the field who forgot his special socket one day.  ffcheesy

Yep Tom.  12 point instead of 6 point.  Scratches equal cracks.  Yes to tight tolerances.  Some repair holes call out using reamers to take the hole out to size.

After 911, we had to have special fasteners to finish installing cabin sidewall panels so they were tamper proof.  Same in the lavatories.  So more special tools to carry "upstairs".

I specialized in sheetmetal.  My ex wife fell off her rocker when I told her I had $$$$$ in sheetmetal tools.  Guess I need to see about selling them off.

Right before the Feds mandated all aircraft fasteners to have documentation, we had left over titanium hi locks by the bunches from doing wing scab patches to 2 Hawaiian Airlines DC9-50s. Nobody wanted them so I took them home.  One guy was just gonna toss them in file 13.  I have about 10 pounds of various sizes and lengths, flush and protruding head which were back then $$$$, but I have no paperwork for them.  I would love to sell them to you for keepsakes!!!

Well I worked for Huck Fasteners, also known as Howmet Areospace, Alcoa fastening systems, and a half dozen other trade marks. Mostly we did rivets for everything from skin panels, to air frame and seat mounts and all in between. My shop made the tools, not the fasteners. We only had one tool facility, but probably 20 other fastener plants around the planet.
 Thanks for the offer, but I have exactly one aerospace titanium faster on my desk here and it's now a key chain/bottle opener and de-commissioned. ffcheesy That's all I need or want. Done with that.

Ah, come one. :wacky:   Like Lays, you can't have just one. :wink_2:

I somehow misplaced the Allen wrench to the lathe, for tightening the motor mount down. I bet it will turn up in the loot because that kind of thing never left the shop and I'm sure it had a spot where it lived, I have just forgot in 30 years. But, about 2 months ago I was in Harbour Freight and bought a set. The largest one in the set is what I needed. Good for another 30.  ffcheesy

30 days or 30 years?  I am sure that new lathe wrench will grow legs and find the old wrench to keep it company.
Reminds me of the tongue in cheek warranty I learned about as a general aviation mechanic back in the late 70s...................1 mile or over the fence.

Years.  ffsmiley  I just haven't look hard enough for the old one. ;)  I need to take a flash light down to the old shop and look on the top shelf. I know there are some treasures hiding in the dust up there.

My old Ford 7.3 PSD has been a little doggy for the past week. When cruising it seemed to loose power but came right back. I thought maybe an injector was dirty so came up with a plan. Change the fuel filter and fill the housing with Seafoam and treat both fuel tanks.

As soon as I pulled the filter I could see another problem. The filter was completely black, not just dirty but black. To me this indicates water and algae in the fuel tank. Not wanting to drop two tanks to clean I decided to get some Power Service Bio Kleen. With the Seafoam, new filter, and Bio Kleen the truck is running like new.

Picked up another filter and I'll take the old one out in a couple of weeks to see how it looks. Hopefully no black.

I just finished putting a new 3 spool valve on my shortwood skidder.

making me jealous.  I have had little time as we transitioned to hospital employed.  we effectively lost 4 docs so filling in the gaps and working 20 shifts this month.  usual is about 10 to 12.  I have all the brake stuff for the ford, but no time.  

Back in the early 90's I built a walk in cooler from scavenged second hand parts. It has served us well over the years. I recently snared a wild pig early one morning and turned the cooler on to get it cold. Well, the compressor wouldn't start. A little troubleshooting proved the compressor itself was locked up. I blew my mad money on a Woodland Mills Chipper in September so there was no budget for a replacement condensing unit. The old one was probably manufactured in the late 60's to early 70's. I dug around and found this old window unit I had removed several years ago. I removed the evaporator section and blower wheel, plumbed in the old accumulator and low pressure switch then connected the evaporator. I need a better box to mount the wiring and run capacitor in but this works for now. The compressor has a little less capacity, but it did a good job of keeping the meat cold unit we were ready to butcher it. It ranged between 34 and 38 which is where my thermostat is set. Still need to make a more weatherproof cover. Hopefully this is a temporary fix until something better comes along.  
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This little part is about the diameter of a dime and 5/16" thick.   

When it disintegrates, a Lincoln MKZ transmission will not shift because this little bushing holds the shift cable end on the transmission shift lever.  

Dr. Emily and I were running errands yesterday and we stopped for lunch.  When we got ready to leave, the car wouldn't shift from park into drive.  Some quick diagnostics and a "field repair" got us home without a tow truck.  

I opted to replace the entire shift cable linkage on the end of the cable rather than just the bushing.  The cable linkage was less expensive than the bushing.   

A pair of needle nose pliers and a screwdriver were all that was required.  I dint need a jack and didn't even have to crawl under the car.  It was a 15 minute fix.  My kind of shade tree mechanics.  

Toyota did the same thing on the Sienna mini van, except that bushing is on the shifter itself buried behind the dash.  Lots of fun parts to remove....

Ooh, i hate anything behind the dash.

I have an 02 GMC 3500 I bought this spring. It has a manual shift transfer case- the kind that always works unlike those pesky electric shift ones, right? Well I went to shift it into 4x4 one day and the shifter was just flopping. The clip on the little ball stud linkage on the transfer case had given up to the MN roadsalt. So now, when I occasionally need 4x4 I've been crawling underneath and popping the linkage back on, which is way better than turning some electric dial no doubt. Finding a replacement linkage is a little murky, there seem to be a little of variations and "wrong" parts. I'm starting to think a steel rod with a couple of looped ends might be in order.

Well, I finally got it all apart and back together.  The oil seal was split in two pieces.  It is 7.1 inches in diameter.  I used the old inner bearing (after I tore it apart removing it) inner race to hammer it on with.

I had to rip the cage off the bearing to get to the back side and pry around with a large screwdriver.  Finally got it out enough to use a gear puller on it.

I took the old inner bearing race and put it in the vise and took the high speed grinder and a new 3/4 inch rotary file to grind down the inside so it would slip on the knuckle shaft.  Then I used it to hammer the new bearing in.

Then put the hub on and wiggled the seal onto the knuckle shaft.  The drove home the outer bearing.  I had a scissor jack under it to prop the hub up while the outer bearing was seated.

Then the sun gear and it's 10 bolts.

Then finally the planetary cover and the wheel assembly.  The sling worked perfect.  Finally, the fender.

Nice work Tim.   :thumbsup:

The current project is the repair of a 27hp Kubota engine for one of their zero turn mowers.  Doing it for a friend of mine.  A new one(superseded) goes for $3k!  Mower costs $5,500. It had been looked at by a service company who came back with an estimate of over $2k to fix it.

The service company had pulled the valve covers to check things.  I'm still in breakdown, but I found a bent pushrod on one side, the other one missing. The reciprocating assembly(crank,rod,pistons) seems fine.  I can tell by the tappet action the camshaft is broken.  It is usually nylon cast onto a steel rod.  It appears to have taken the governor with it, but I won't know for sure until I crack open the crankcase.

Probably about $500 in parts to fix it, plus a lot of cleaning up of things.

QuoteWell I went to shift it into 4x4 one day and the shifter was just flopping. The clip on the little ball stud linkage on the transfer case had given up to the MN roadsalt.

Sounds like what happened to the linkage on my 4x4. (Only mine is a Ram in WI roadsalt). ffcheesy 
I follow a mechanic on youtube who when he doesn't have a part (like a plastic bushing), he'll print one out on his 3D printer. Kinda mind boggling how they can do that now. :crazy_eyessmilie:

Quote from: doc henderson on October 23, 2024, 03:46:25 AMNice work Tim.  :thumbsup:

Thanks Doc.  Do you see the light at the end of the tunnel on getting some time off?

Trying to get my incredibly rusty F450 plow truck to run better. It's a 2000 7.3 diesel with only 63k miles but don't let the low mileage fool you !!! Rust, rust, rust. It will only ever go over 20 MPH if it's loaded on a heavy duty roll-back truck.

Return fuel line is rusted out. Proprietary fittings. A real hair ripper. I am Not taking anything apart to reroute it properly, I'm not using expensive factory-like tubing. Good rubber line taking the long way around. Whatever I need to do to keep the fuel inside the tank and engine.

Might put a new lift/fuel pump on. I bought it but I could wait until the thing dies and do that swap lying in slush.....

I cracked open the case on the kubota engine I am working on.  Apparently the valve adjustment got lose enough for the push rods to jump out of their tappet sockets.  One fell down through the oil return passage into the crankcase. It got wrapped around the camshaft.  No damage to components(other than the pushrods!).

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Well that is sweet.  Seems like your friend got lucky.

Tim, I cannot see light at the end of the tunnel, but I know it is there.  

I would send you my headlight, but I use it too much in retirement. ffcool

Wow that's eye opening. Make me think I should order a couple valve cover gaskets and check my little kubotas valve adjustments. I've never checked either one of them. I just change the oil and filter and put them back to work.

The engine on my john deere tractor got hard to turn over due to the valve adjustment being loose.  It would hold compression too long because the exhaust valve was opening late. 

In the case of the kubota engine, I think that the other cylinder fired and the first one was subject to too much stress.

There is an aluminum pushrod(intake) and steel one(exhaust).  The aluminum one was bent.  Maybe the steel one bent a tad and kaflooey!

Your manual should have an interval listed for valve adjustment if it is necessary maintenance.

Threw new injectors at the Dodge 1500... got a random misfire. :tickedoff:  :tickedoff:

Quote from: rusticretreater on October 25, 2024, 07:34:43 PMYour manual should have an interval listed for valve adjustment if it is necessary maintenance.

Manual, what's that? ffcheesy  Both engines were very old when I got them. One is on a light tree generator we used to use as a backup generator. The other was attached to a piece of a Kubota lawn/garden tractor someone gave me to please his wife. She was tired of looking at it. It's the smaller of the two and is the one I put on my sawmill. Guess I need to do a little more research on it. I tried looking up the hp for it online and never did find a definitive answer. Different sites list different specs. I just assumed the valves were hydraulic lifters and wouldn't need adjusting.

Well post some engine info, like numbers stamped into it, etc.  A picture can also help. 

I've been procrastinating, like a real procrastinator, on replacing the starter ony backhoe. It was stuck, not starting, with the loader arm blocking engine access and I was/am dreading the process.

This morning was nice and cool so when when I hoped to get lucky and get her to fire up to raise the loader bucket she actually started and I was able to raise it! Woop.

Now, I'm stuck, because I'm not sure what to remove to access the bolt with the wires going to it and the final bolt holding the starter to the machine. So far it's gone better than expected but I gave up for the day and switched to working on a bourbon.

I've taken the next coupla days off work to try to learn some more and see how it goes.

Did you try tapping the starter with a hammer? Sometimes they stick, and a few taps is all it takes to free them up.

Yeah, that worked a couple of times but I'm not going to trust it. 

I got the starter out, now to order a new one and figure out how to jam it back in place! 

Quote from: NewYankeeSawmill on October 25, 2024, 09:23:23 PMThrew new injectors at the Dodge 1500... got a random misfire. :tickedoff:  :tickedoff:

I recommend a can of BG 44K.  The stuff is amazing at dissolving engine deposits.  It will clean your system better than any fuel system cleaner I know of.

You never hear of this because they don't need to advertise it. It really works.  It is well known inside the automotive trade.

Quote from: rusticretreater on October 29, 2024, 01:03:07 PM

Quote from: NewYankeeSawmill on October 25, 2024, 09:23:23 PMThrew new injectors at the Dodge 1500... got a random misfire. :tickedoff:  :tickedoff:

I recommend a can of BG 44K.

For diesel? I have a backhoe that sounds like it could use some... 

Ah, for diesels you want BK 245 Fuel system cleaner for Diesels.  $25 on Amazon.

Quote from: rusticretreater on October 29, 2024, 01:03:07 PMI recommend a can of BG 44K.  The stuff is amazing at dissolving engine deposits.  It will clean your system better than any fuel system cleaner I know of.

Thanks for the reco. I may try to find some of that locally today.

I'm baffled by this truck and the engine troubles. I've replaced everything I can think of (related to combustion), but am still getting 'random misfire' codes on the engine:

I bought the truck in March w/ 245k miles ('03 Ram 1500 w/ 5.9l Gas engine). Since acquiring I put on a new muffler, O2 sensors and exhaust pipe (from the cat's back), replaced the alternator and battery, put in new fancy-pants 'iridium' spark plugs and heavy duty wires (haven't done dist. cap yet), cleaned throttle body, replaced IAC, and put in 8 new Bosch fuel injectors last weekend.
Got to grocery store Tuesday and white steam was coming from under the hood.  :veryangry:  :veryangry:  :veryangry:
My son helped me replace the water pump and belt tensioner this week. Serp belt is only 6 months old (replaced that w/ the alternator). Yesterday nothing else broke, but today's a new day!

Pour in half a can of seafoam, she purrs like a kitten. Top off the gas tank after it's down, random misfire codes.

Grrrrrrrr?!?! :tickedoff:

I've replaced everything I can think of that impacts combustion. But a fuel additive at half-strength cures the problem. Can't understand it. I don't know enough about cars/engines to really understand, but my logic-circuits can't figure out what parts to attempt to replace at this point? If it's a bent valve or the like, why does a fuel-cleaner-additive eliminate the problem? That makes me think chemistry... Amount of fuel in the tank doesn't seem to matter (1/4 or 1/2 full), it's the seafoam concentration that matters... I pour some in and it smooths out, add 10 gal. of fuel, starts throwing codes again.

Last night I pulled a couple fuses to re-set the ECM computer (suggested on a Dodge help forum after new injectors). It used to have trouble starting when cold, but injectors seemed to fix it. At idle it _sounds_ a little rough, but under load the engine hum's nicely, there's zero cough, sputter, or other signs of loss of power. Does consume a little oil (but at 250k miles, they'll do that).
Oil is clean, no milk (so I think the head gasket is intact). Replaced it twice now, only driven it about 2k miles.

I had a '98 Dodge. by 30,000 miles the engine went haywire with it misfiring and the transmission was wonky. The transmission guy couldn't figure it out and the dealer didn't have any solutions and also told me they weren't doing any warranty work on it until I called Montreal. But that never resolved any issues the truck had. It was made in Mexico, so who knows where the problems stemmed from. I was talking to a Ford man, who went GMC, had troubles with both and finally went Toyota. Been happy ever since. I've had GMC and Dodge and none went to 140,000 miles without major issues. ffcheesy ffcheesy  My Toyota runs like a champ. A lot of those are hard miles on the roughest forestry and paved roads imaginable. 

I hear ya @SwampDonkey !  ffcheesy
I swore off Fords after my BIL (a retired Ford truck tech) said he wouldn't buy any F-series truck made in the last 20 years. My cars have all been Honda or Toy, they run like champs. Have you seen the prices on used Tundra's?!?!?  think_not  Why I bought the Dodge....

Water in the fuel tank getting stirred up when you gas up or water in the gas station tank?

Quote from: rusticretreater on October 29, 2024, 06:40:47 PMAh, for diesels you want BK 245 Fuel system cleaner for Diesels.  $25 on Amazon.

Did you mean BG 245?  https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/diesel-fuel-system/bg-245-premium-diesel-fuel-system-cleaner/

Quote from: NewYankeeSawmill on November 01, 2024, 05:11:44 AM

Quote from: rusticretreater on October 29, 2024, 01:03:07 PMI recommend a can of BG 44K.  The stuff is amazing at dissolving engine deposits.  It will clean your system better than any fuel system cleaner I know of.

Pour in half a can of seafoam, she purrs like a kitten. Top off the gas tank after it's down, random misfire codes.

Grrrrrrrr?!?! :tickedoff:

Do you always fuel up at the same place, if so try somewhere else. Maybe try a tank of premium and if that works try some mid grade, sounds like poopy fuel.

Yes BG 245. Typo

Quote from: gspren on November 01, 2024, 04:05:30 PMDo you always fuel up at the same place, if so try somewhere else. Maybe try a tank of premium and if that works try some mid grade, sounds like poopy fuel.

It's usually the same brand (local convenience chain), but different stores w/in the brand. I was reading a few things about that, suggested a zero-alcohol high-octane fill-up (as if it's not expensive enough!) I usually get the 97-octane no-alcohol fuel for my small engine machines (including my sawmill), thinking of putting 5-gallons in the tank to see if it helps (sans seafoam).
It ran good yesterday, after re-setting the ECM, but there's some seafoam in the tank, so, not sure it's fixed. I plan to do some running this morning, will add fuel to the tank and see if the misfires come back. Want to check the local shop for that BG42 or some Redline (interesting read on the ingredients here: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/the-best-fuel-injector-cleaner-and-fuel-system-cleaners/ )

I had a Colorado PU I bought used and that had some rough running issues.
It would stall at stop signs sometimes and run rough at times.
I put some super gas in it and it helped out some.
I always got my gas at the same place.
They close the place to count money around 1, when I would go on lunch.
So I got some super from another gas station. That truck ran great!!!
Then I went back to the same place I always get gas.
Started to run rough again.
Then I went back to the other gas station.  Ran great again.
I did this 4-5 times and every time I went to the other gas station to get gas it would run great.
I went to the other place to get my gas.
Just so you know this took a while too, I only drove that truck to work, about 50 miles to work each week.
I always thought all gas was just about the same.

Thanks @thecfarm . About the only thing I haven't tried yet is dropping the tank, dumping it out, and putting a fresh fuel pump in (only 30 bucks!)

Ray you sound like a quick learner in this case😁

I went out today and got the starter in the backhoe and she fired right up! Picked up a big fuel tank the neighbor gave me, and scooped out a few stumps! Good stuff! 

Does anyone know if it's standard to put de-gell-er in pump diesel? I always add some come winter time but it's coming up on time to buy another bottle of it. Maybe I don't need it? My FIL is giving me a diesel tank, 150 gallon I think, and I'm hoping to get farm-use fuel to put in it.

In winter, northern states treat the diesel at the pump, southern states not so much. When in doubt, put in some anti-gel to treat it (can't over do it). Also good to keep the tank full, then there's no air to condense moisture inside the tank.

I've never used it down here, but I probably would If I were further north like you. I have 150gal. above ground tank myself. I haven't been able to find anyone to deliver diesel to it. I think the minimum delivery size here is 500 gallons. It's kind of a pain, but I use one of those big metal framed plastic totes to keep it filled. I have a 12volt pump on a pipe that I use to transfer it from tote to the tank. The good thing is I only have to do it a couple times a year and I always have diesel available.

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0924.JPG) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=338549)
Like RetiredTech above, my Diesel fuel is not gonna gel due to weather, but I still add an ounce of Stanadyne and a teaspoon of PS BioKleen per 5 gallons. 

Whether needed or not, I replace both the primary and secondary fuel filters with every oil change. 

I haven't called about getting the tank filled yet to see if it's possible, but i think I'm close enough to civilization that I don't think it'll be an issue. 150 gallon tank, if that's what it is will last me a long time. 

I don't us any additives in my bulk diesel tank, but it also gets used & refilled once or twice a year. Typically gelling isn't an issue where we are. If it's going to take you years to use 150 gallon I would maybe only fill it half way, and use a stabilizer.

Watch out for condensation in those large tanks that aren't full.   Just be vigilant about it.  

I only have a 50 gallon transfer tank at the farm, but I try to keep it topped off with my 5 gallon sawmill jugs. 

I am using the additives because I had a failed engine probably due to bad "off road" Diesel.  Other users also had problems that were so bad that the station discontinued keeping and selling "off road".  I now only use highway pump Diesel.

TimW questioned my recipe for the above treatment items.  The Stanadyne is simple to follow the mixing ratio.  The PS BioKleen not so simple.  The bottle states one ounce to shock treat 20 gallons and one ounce for maintenance treating 55 gallons.  My 5 gallon jugs rarely require over 4 gallons to fill because they are rarely empty and I never fill to the line.  It takes 6 teaspoons to equal an ounce so one teaspoon per 4-5 gallons is close enough for me.

Lynn, I am sure you know this but the maintenance ration for your diesel is about half a teaspoon per 5 gallons, or 2.7 cc.  better safe than sorry I guess.  

Yup, I am not using a measuring teaspoon which is also not filled level anyway.

quarter glug!

Thanks for the notes guys. I've used a neighbors off-road diesel before without any issues and I don't think he's the type to do much tank maintaining, though I certainly will, to some extent. 

Does your neighbor know you are using his fuel?   ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy

Haha! Yeah, I was doing work for him and would take a fill-up in leau of payment. 

I set mine up with a fine wire strainer (I think it was stainless steel) inside the tank a few inches off the bottom. That keeps any big stuff and any condensation out of the pump. Then there's a regular moisture removing fuel filter on the output of the pump. I put a spring loaded vent cap on the top. That probably helps some with the condensation. I've never gotten much out of the bottom of the tank. The only maintenance I do is change the filter whenever needed and check for water at the drain valve once a year or so. I run off road diesel in my tractor, sawmill and generator and have never had a problem with the fuel. There are three stations 30-45 minutes away that have pumps. I just have to take a mourning to go get it.

Quote from: NewYankeeSawmill on November 01, 2024, 07:06:50 AMI hear ya @SwampDonkey !  ffcheesy
I swore off Fords after my BIL (a retired Ford truck tech) said he wouldn't buy any F-series truck made in the last 20 years. My cars have all been Honda or Toy, they run like champs. Have you seen the prices on used Tundra's?!?!?  think_not  Why I bought the Dodge....

and now you wish for the used Toyota? 
I just buy them brand new and drive them for 10-15 years. I am on my last one I hope. 2022, and they are going to put in a new engine for me soon, so I figure my last one for sure. I might end up with 100k on it before they finally get around to putting the new engine in.  ffcool

Welp, we've been upgraded to a blown head gasket!
Replacing the injectors and re-setting the computer seemed to have a big impact (as did Mobil1 Fuel)... then I started getting a cooling system leak. Replaced the water pump, a hose, still squirting.
Sigh. That's miles above my pay grade. Thankfully a friend has offered to help. I just have to cough up for the parts and the beer. Works for me!

A friend and utube will fix that pretty quick. I blew a head gasket on my 93 bobcat years ago, that was above my pay grade also, needed a rad and the head had to be machined, actually they baked it in an oven for24 hrs as it had warped, straightened it and machined it. I was able to get it back installed and running with the help of tube. The machine shop laughed at me when they gave it backed to me and everything was in a box. I had given it to them all tagged and marked so I could just put it back on.......It went back together pretty easy. 

my current miserable mechanical job

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/bobcat_hose.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=356741)

That's the leaking hose going to the left lift cylinder. there is no way to get wrenchs on the hose to tube fittings in the machine.
I am still struggling to get the 2nd hose out, I only have about 3 1/2 hours in this job so far.

I hate working on Bobcat. there is so much in such a small space that is difficult to get to. it just started leaking too much to just keep adding oil.

I had a kinda similar situation once and went back totally flexible. 

Quote from: Machinebuilder on November 12, 2024, 07:34:26 AMmy current miserable mechanical job

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/65100/bobcat_hose.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=356741)

That's the leaking hose going to the left lift cylinder. there is no way to get wrenchs on the hose to tube fittings in the machine.
I am still struggling to get the 2nd hose out, I only have about 3 1/2 hours in this job so far.

I hate working on Bobcat. there is so much in such a small space that is difficult to get to. it just started leaking too much to just keep adding oil.

Looks awfully similar to the job I just did replacing the leaking transmission oil cooler lines on my F150. After messing around for way too long with flare nut wrenches, I buzzed the rusty old lines off with a zip wheel and put a socket on the fitting. If I'd thought of it earlier, would have saved an hour of cussing.

Sometimes you gotta make the tool you need.  Weld it, bend it, grind it. Sometimes you need to remove other parts to get a good angle on it. Whatever it takes. super-smiley

I put a new starter in "Old Rusty" the other day, my '07 Ram 2500, and it actually went pretty good. Used a 4x8 sheet of plywood to lay on, and drove the front wheels up on boards to give me a little more room underneath. The starter in there technically still worked, but to get motorvated need a little tappy - tap with a hammer. ffcheesy
Best part was since I had replaced this same starter a few years ago, the parts store covered the full cost under the warranty. ffcool

Locally, we could always get them rebuilt. Wasn't all that expensive back in the day.

should get my relined brake shoes back today.  now it will be cold! :dry:

When I worked at the local Chrysler Dodge Plymouth dealer('68 to '78) as a mechanic, the parts department stocked OEM new parts to rebuild starters, alternators, steering pumps, and more.
Those were the good old days!

This place relines brake shoes and can find old truck parts.  buck is the guy in charge.  they are 40 minutes away and they have a route to pick up and drop off.  they also give away calendars with pictures that could make any man or woman blush.  They apparently have a version for both genders and occasionally as a joke will give a truck driver the wrong one.  Old fashioned fun.

QuoteLocally, we could always get them rebuilt. 

I know guys with all the tools and heated garage space that would rebuild them themselves, I tip my hat to them. :thumbsup: 
Laying on the ground in the cold, needing to get the thing fixed and running, I just bolt on a new one. ffcheesy

these shoes are no longer available.  He had trouble getting cores and I told him, he can use mine. ffsmiley

Often it would be a tractor, or potato truck needed to farm. There was a day when stuff like that was fixed and you walked back out with it or the next morning picked it up. Same with saws, most of these John Deere dealers who carry Stihl saws, stock no parts at all these days. I could go to Harold a few years ago at his shop and I walked out with a fixed saw or he loaned me one until mine was fixed in a day or so. Don't expect it now.  ffcheesy ffcheesy

Sylven passed away, but he was the saw guy at the Amish dealer.  He would wonder if he had it (a part you needed), but almost always did.  One time I was out sawing and had my gooseneck and skid steer with me.  saw kept dying and then would run if I filled it with fuel.  he told me it was prob a crack in the preformed bend in the fuel line, but he went to lunch at 1:30.  Lunch for him was a packed lunch box and he sat on an old car bench seat in the lobby/front of the business.  Had to unhook the trailer as it was half full of unsecured wood.  wanted to finish, so I did not have to come back.  I got there and expected he could not finish it as it was 1:15. He tried to act grumpy but was OK if he felt you appreciated what he did.  He worked on it using a tool he made to pull in a new fuel line.  It had also broken the drive sprocket, and he replaced it and put it all back together.  took it out to check it with a tach and tuned it up.  He said, it is not throwing oil.  took it back in and took it all back apart to find a part plastic worm gear that pumped oil, packed with saw chips and oil and broken.  He found one on the shelf and fixed it.  still confirmed it was throwing oil.  I apologized for him missing lunch.  He said, no matter, I will go sit and eat for a half hour, no matter when it starts.  Old school.

Wish there were more like him. 

Well, spent a bit of time on the sawmill before it decides to get too cold.  Was cutting pine and noticed a delay in the blade clutch engaging.  It finally would not engage the blade for the final cut.  Matt at Timberking @Will_Johnson  thought it was likely the air gap on the clutch.  I took off the cover/guard and was happy to see, I did not have anything else to remove. 

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_9574.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357278)

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_9570.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357276)

You can see the oil-soaked saw dust, from a slow (for now) seal on the output shaft.  Project for another day.  Hoping it can be changed without major teardown. 

I watched a few YouTube videos.  the slots around the clutch housing are access for a feeler gage.  I need it set to 0.018 and was able to work a feeler gage into the three slots and snug the three spring loaded nuts to meet spec.  I also checked wiring and found one connection that came apart a little too easy. 

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_9571.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357274)

three slots like the one at the top of the photo.

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_9569.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357275)

It is a bit tight. 

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_9573.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=357277)

Update:  I have nearly all the parts to put the ol dump truck back together.  Need the flex hoses and a few springs and clips, and one mor 5/8th inch wheel studs with left hand threads.  My brother had surgery for carpal tunnel and a cubital tunnel release.  She is up securely on jack stands on plywood bases.

Well after much fighting and lots of words I finally got the lines back together on the Bobcat.
I haven't even found any leaks yet............I hope I didn't curse myself.

No I am at a point where It drives fwd/rev, but doesn't lift or tilt.

I did find a few broken wires and i had broken one valve coil. I think that is all correct.
The coil should be the interlock system valve, I am thinking i may have bent the valve when I broke the coil.
I just ordered a new Valve and should have it in a couple days.

Of course it is at the bottom of the valve block and will be a joy to get to.

It's supposed to be rainy so I am back to inside projects again.

Hot Rod on the lift heats on rock and roll is in the air. New suspension parts going on. ffcool

Machinebuilder- Nothing sounds fun about that.

That would be an understatement.

I ended up with quite a few connections undone. I found many of them unbelievably tight, to the point of distorted threads.

JIC fittings (37 degree flare) do not have to be extremely tight. A -4 (1/4") is 1 1/12 flats past finger tight, a -12 (3/4") is about 1 flat.

I spent quite a bit of time with a thread file fixing one adapter.

IT"S ALIVE.

I installed the new valve today and everything works.

I used it for a good while and don't see oil dripping anywhere so the leaks are fixed..................for now.

I wish newer machines were more affordable,I get tired of fixing this old stuff.

My CAT E70 excavator started out life as a Mitsubishi MS070. CAT rebadged in when they bought out Mitsubishi.
After 25 years, my exhaust pipe elbow cracked.  To add insult to injury, I cut the wrong elbow off.  So I had to replace two elbows.  Amazon Prime excelled in this endeavor, as I had everything I needed next day.  But had to buy two exhaust u bolt clamps from O'reilly auto supply.  As The elbows are a little higher than factory.  I threw some witness clay on the ubolt to see if the hood cleared.  Got 1/4 inch gap. 

As usual, it is always something that breaks and needs fixing.  Now it is the Gully culvert.  Double wall corrugated black plastic, 4 foot in diameter.  It got a split in it.
Had this metal on hand and had it bent into a 2 foot radius.  But it looks like it is rolled.  Rolled .vs Bent is 3 times more $.  It gets installed tomorrow.

I recently went to a pretty special auction. The owner of the Model A garage, nationally known for his skill and knowledge in restoring Model A Fords, passed on and his entire set up was being sold.  This guy really had it going and folks tell me he could make any part needed.   An entire shop full of great machinery, hardware, bins, parts, supplies.  I got priced out on a lot of stuff, but it was mostly because I had to hang on to the cash for the item I really wanted.

An automotive body dolly with adjustable height, multiple configurations and also mobile.  I am still trying to find out the manufacturer as it had no markings on it whatsoever.  Based on the other dollies I am seeing online, this one is a super deluxe one that I expect would go for over $2000.  I got it for $750.  Soon I will be putting my 70 Chevelle on it as I do the full, off the frame rebuild.

@TimW what is the plan with the metal to fix the plastic culvert pipe? I have similar stuff under a bridge on my creek, I don't think I'd ever know it split unless the bridge started getting very wet. 

@rusticretreater Nice score on the dolly! 

Got a few warm days and decided I should start some equipment that has been sitting awhile waiting for spring. My money pit Kubota wouldn't start without hooking up a battery charger so I decided it was time for a new battery. I've found anything with glow plugs needs a good battery so a trip to the parts store lightened my wallet for the tune of $200.Hopefully it will run all summer without any major malfunctions.

Quote from: aigheadish on February 05, 2025, 06:52:30 AM@TimW what is the plan with the metal to fix the plastic culvert pipe? I have similar stuff under a bridge on my creek, I don't think I'd ever know it split unless the bridge started getting very wet.

@rusticretreater Nice score on the dolly!

One day I noticed a hole in the dirt over the culvert.  I thought a something sharp had hit the upper ceiling in the culvert during high water run off.  But a few days later saw a slit of dirt missing.  I dug back some dirt and saw that the culvert was split and about a foot area depressed.  Since then, I had painted orange paint over the slit to center up and continue driving over.  I will dig out 2x4 feet of dirt over the slit and lay the steel over it and cover it up.  Really a simple (permanent) fix I hope.

I am confused as to what you have, a bridge or a culvert?

Ah! Thanks, that makes sense!

I don't know words very good! I have two 2'x24' corrugated pipes buried under dirt (the bridge) that I use to access the back field. When we moved into the house it was just a crossing with rocks that the creek would flow over. I didn't like driving the mower over that so I got some garbagey pvc pipes to supplement one buried concrete pipe that was much too narrow and buried that. After the first big rain that system was washed out. The creek has a once or twice yearly big flood but is otherwise pretty dry and small, only a foot or two wide, but when it floods it would cover about 150'x200' of the backyard in ankle deep water. I decided to go big and bury the culvert pipes in there, then cover that with as much rock and old leftover cured concrete bags as we could find, then dirt over the top of that. I'm very pleased to have realized, just a couple days ago, that any of the big rains we've had since the big pipes were installed, that we have not had a major yard flood! We'll see if that continues but I also added a mini pond just before the pipes and I think that is helping too.

Originally like this:

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/creek1.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=350949)

Now like this:

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/culvert.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=350948)

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/63516/image000000281329.jpg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=351769)

I was able to install the repair steel yesterday.  I had a stack of pine on two logs nearby the culvert.  When water overflowed the gully, the logs were redirecting water and causing dirt to wash away from the top of the culvert, thus causing not enough dirt to spread the load.  So I spread 6 or so inches of clay/loam mix over it all.  This is the approach to where I am building my sawmill shed.

Goodness, TimW, your work looks much nicer than mine! You've got grading pretty well down with that backhoe. You got secrets to make it that nice? Looks like pretty good dirt, which I'm sure helps.

Back dragging, and a float function on the loader is your friend😊

Yeah, I've tried a fair amount of that, but typically on big dirt clods, and I'm not great at it. I did ok on a fresh gravel driveway, but less ok in places where I've removed a lot of scrub and overgrowth. My float function also either doesn't work very well or I suck at engaging it. I've only had my hoe for 5 or 6 years though, so maybe I need more practice!

Quote from: aigheadish on February 07, 2025, 06:50:38 AMGoodness, TimW, your work looks much nicer than mine! You've got grading pretty well down with that backhoe. You got secrets to make it that nice? Looks like pretty good dirt, which I'm sure helps.

The right clay/loam helps enormously.  The right moisture content is a must. 
I dump bucket loads where I want to fill in.  Then grade in forward in Low Low, constantly tweeking the cutting edge up and down to get about twice the thickness you want.  Then I back drag it in both directions.  Back dragging first makes in uneven as the tires compress the dirt in little hills and valley.  Then I run the tires over all of it to pack it down, then back drag in both directions again.

Then, if you want to go further, the drag harrow helps.  I seeded the dam with the drag harrow.

Dirt clods, chunks of grass and dirt, and tree limbs and sticks don't go with back dragging.  Get rid of them.

When I am trying to spread out wet clay, I dump it where I want it and run over it with the 2 foot wide tracks of the excavator. This roughs in level grade with no ruts.  Then let is sit until dry, then start back dragging it.

When I spread the top soil on the yard here, I chained up a pallet with a tire on top and a couple big rocks in the middle, drug with the SxS. Nice smooth job. Fun to.  ffcool ffcool

Good rule of thumb the bigger the culvert diameter, the more depth of fill is needed over top of it. This can also vary with soil/road base fill types and how heavy traffic will be over it. Also having heavy broken rock around the culvert ends (especially the inlet end) will protect it in flood conditions. My driveway I battled with for years, and ended up pouring a concrete wall around the end to keep it from eroding.

I bought the culvert as surplus at 4 foot diameter and 16 foot long.  So 4 foot was cut off.  I want to concrete the inlet ends.  I installed treated 2x12 bulkhead on the outlet side about 10 years ago.  Store bought 2x12s at that time.  I had used streaded 4x6s I used as posts and a header for the boards.  The 10 year old treated 2x12s have rotted away.  The 4x6s beams are over 30 years old and are still in place and solid.

When I bought the culvert, I researched the carrying weight and amount of dirt on top needed.  All I remember is at least 6 inches of dirt.

I've got some culvert regulation gov't document somewhere that specified weights and depths needed. I don't remember exact details but the top of my bridge is probably a foot or two above the top of the pipe. I need to go out and get a few good scoops of material on either end to clear it out. The bottom side is probably a foot buried or so. 

I'd like to get a harrow, they look very handy. I've got a blade for the tractor that grades better than my loader bucket but it still leaves a bit to be desired. I've got an in-progress rock screener build and I'd imagine I can harvest some decent dirt, rather than buying it, when I need to level stuff out. 

When it rains, it pours.  The telehandler's rear hub seal is seaming.  Yes, the same one I rebuilt last fall.  I just will keep watching it and adding 90 wt.

Now, I have noticed the Mahindra's right front wheel bearings making noise under heavy log loads.  That KMW loader lifts 3900 pounds.  Way more than the tractor can handle over the long term.  So I get to pull another planetary hub apart all over again, on a smaller scale.

It's always nice to improve your land.
When I fill a place in I do just a little at a time. Meaning I dump the dirt and then whatever clumps and small rocks I push in front of where I just dumped a load and bury it. Then repeat.

Ooh I don't like to hear that Tim.

Perhaps foolishly, I purchased some old logging equipment this winter. I didn't inspect it critically enough at all, now both pieces are sitting dead on my landing, in my way as I skid around them with the ol reliable Pettibone cable skidder🤦 Nothing fatal, the Ckark skidder has a stuck injector on the old Detroit 453, and the Hydro Ax blew a seal on the loader lift cylinder that was a real bear to get off. The cylinder is at the hydraulic shop getting rebuilt, I'll have to pull the injector off the skidder to get it unfrozen hopefully. 

I had never been inside the valve cover of a Detroit to see the unit injector system, and understand the terminology like "running the rack". And I was completely content with that, and yet here we are😂

BTW, I think the phrase "running the rack" is a poor choice of words for what you are doing to adjust the injectors in a Detroit. What you are really doing is adjusting the control lever on the fuel control shaft to synchronize them. The "rack" in Detroit terminology is the shaft that goes into the injector, it has gear teeth cut on it. So it is a "rack" proper, like a rack and pinion, it turns a gear, inside the injector that turns the fuel plunger to meter the fuel. That's what this shade tree mechanic has learned, whether he wanted to or not🤷😊

Just so "running the rack" doesn't become: "runaway stuck rack..." :uhoh: 

Guy I watch on You Tube has a circle mill he runs near Pittsburg PA, he uses an old Detroit bus motor to power the mill. Every time he starts it, he has a guy outside the saw cab manually engage the clutch, and set the the throttle RPM. This he does by jamming a nail in a hole drilled through the throttle lever. Gotta love simple tinker-toy technology. ffcheesy

Sounds like running an old air vac potato harvester. Someone has to engage/disengage the clutch and adjust the rpm at the beginning and ending of every trip across the field. Now adays there is no one at all on the harvesters, just a guy in a tractor cab. That all changed about 15 years ago.

Mine would've been a "runaway" situation, but the "newer" Detroits have a "safety" fuel rod. The fuel control fingers can move independently, so one stuck injector doesn't hang all of the injectors wide open. More things I learned that I had no desire to😁

My spring issues so far are a broken, dead battery in the lawn tractor(fails a load test), kubota fuel tank obstruction for fuel and the upper control arm bushings on my old dodge dakota are done.

Got one side of the bushing replacement done and have a plan for the fuel issue.  Just gotta throw some money at the lawn tractor. 

Resonator
Is that Shannon at Temple Hill Sawmill ??

No, Mark Galicic. He's got many, many videos of his mill running. His buddy Eddie Horvath runs the Detroit (and has his own You Tube channel). Eddie's very particular that "the nail" for the throttle gets put back in it's place every time he shuts down. ffcheesy

I was driving the 45 miles home from work a couple of nights ago and I lost power steering, power brakes and the battery light turned on.  I watched the temperature gauge, and it did not get too high, so I kept going.  I got home and popped the hood and noticed the serpentine belt was slack and the tensioner pulley assembly was missing a pulley.

I ordered a new Motorcraft belt and tensioner pulley assembly.  It should arrive tomorrow.  I'll probably spend quite a bit of time on Monday learning how to route the belt and install the new tensioner.  I've been driving my wife's suv the last couple of days-it will spoil a man.  I have a lot of other stuff that needs mechanical attention (I'd starve to death if I relied on my mechanical skills to survive).

Mark has a good channel too. And like The Eddie as well.  ffwave ffwave

Just gotta throw some money at the lawn tractor.

Nothing I hate more than throwing money at a lawn mower/tractor.  They really don't make those like they used to!

I did not see the Amazon truck arrive today, but my wife told me that there were packages in the house.  In about 15 minutes, my friend Brian and I had the new belt tensioner and belt installed.  I hate working on my own stuff that I rely on, but I'm glad to be back on the road with my 25-year-old truck that should be ready for my 90-mile commute next week.  

A couple of weeks ago I had a new clutch installed.  The new one slipped, and I had my mechanic friend order a new LuK clutch.  Now the new one is not slipping, but I think we'll probably still swap it.

Every time I consider a new coat of paint for the truck, something more pressing crops up (AC, belts and pulleys, injectors, etc.).  It may get a fresh coat one of these days.
 

Paint the truck a different color and your neighbors will think that you got a new one.  ffcheesy

Quote from: caveman on March 09, 2025, 04:12:40 PMA couple of weeks ago I had a new clutch installed.  The new one slipped, and I had my mechanic friend order a new LuK clutch.  Now the new one is not slipping, but I think we'll probably still swap it.

I replaced mine last year.  I ordered this really nice kevlar disc setup from Spec Clutches.  Apparently Spec makes out of spec clutches because it didn't work.  The pressure plate was misconfigured.  They then said since I had installed it they couldn't give me my money back but only replace it.  Jerks still owe me $400.  I ordered one from Centerforce and it worked no problem.

Better use a brush or roller because all that noise with a rattle can will give it away. ffcheesy

My son's (mine) Camry is being a turd, so we'll be swapping out camshaft position sensors once they show up, and he's going to learn to fight an oil filter during his first oil change. The sensor looks like an easy fix, and replacement wasn't expensive, let's hope it works. It could also be a variable vale timing solenoid, which also look cheap and easy to fix. Here's to hoping either of those solve the problem. The sensor from O'Reilly's was 70 bucks and they were out of stock, I've got 2 of them coming from Cramazon for like 25 bucks. 

Quote from: TimW on March 08, 2025, 01:05:36 PMWhen it rains, it pours.  The telehandler's rear hub seal is seaming.  Yes, the same one I rebuilt last fall.  I just will keep watching it and adding 90 wt.

Now, I have noticed the Mahindra's right front wheel bearings making noise under heavy log loads.  That KMW loader lifts 3900 pounds.  Way more than the tractor can handle over the long term.  So I get to pull another planetary hub apart all over again, on a smaller scale.

My mistake on the noise from the front wheel bearings.  It was the loader just creakin' under all that weight. 

I spent a lot back in 2006 for a zero turn mower.  I got a good one.  A Hustler Fastrac.  I bought it because the deck front edge was 1/2" thick. The Honda engine is nice bonus too.  I was tired of rusted and bent decks.
After 19 years, the front wheel bearing decided to give up the ghost.  The pictured parts are actually suppose to be 3 parts.
The Honda's starter last 18 years.

My old 26 HP Kohler engine Craftsman 9000 is 17 years old now. 54" deck of 10 gauge steel, never rusted through yet and never replaced the deck belt yet either. The front rollers on the deck are getting a bit worn now. But it has been a great mower. It's actually a Husqvarna, says under the seat. I mow 1.2 acres here.

Back when the Craftsman name meant something.  I mow 4.5 acres here.

I am working on cleaning up the rust on the wheels, drums and backing plates for the front.  my brother has been having/recovering from surgeries for elbow and carpal tunnel.  I could do it myself but have only been slowed down long enough to feel like facilitating someone else.  I have a buddy/farm boy from hays, Ks who is a pharmacist at the hospital.  He has done a few older trucks and has good bending equipment.  we will see.  also refurbing a wood fired outdoor furnace to heat a firewood/heat treating box in the future.  pics later, if I feel like it.  :wink_2: (getting the hang of semi-retirement). ffsmiley

Oh the usual.  Just about everything!  My daughters Subaru(hit a deer), my neighbors tractor(no start), my kubota(clogged fuel system-fixed!), lawn tractor(suddenly won't stay running unless full choke-still dies too), my pickup truck(new rack n pinion). But the sawmill is running fine!

Check your fuel line for flow on the lawn tractor. I just had to replace one last fall that was doing the same thing. Figured it needed a fuel filter, nope the line was shot.

When I walk into Lowes and I see all the red, I am excited for an instant thinking I am seeing Milwaukie tools, but nope, just all the junk they call craftsman now.   :snowball:

We haven't had Craftsman or Sears here in Canada for 8 years now. But they were on shaky ground for a number of years before that.

Got more energy so working on the cosmetic stuff that makes an old truck go faster.  working on removing rust and grease and painting so it is all the same color.  might as well look nice when back together and be easier and cleaner to work on.

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_0124.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=358892)

cleaned the backing plate.  note the blue creeper in the background.

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4-inch masking tape.

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throw it down loose

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_0134.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=358895)

tuck it a bit

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push it in and sheer it with a sharp object and now you can paint and not look like a kid did it.

(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/51041/IMG_0137.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=358898)

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primer and paint.  this is the backside of a front wheel.  the masking is hard to do, unless you find a way to mass produce.

My man adding that cheap horsepower to his truck. ffcool

Looking faster already! :wink_2:

I always thought it added a lot of appeal when people have pictures of something for sale, and they couldn't bother to tape the tires when they do the Rustoleum rebuild. Even better if it is still parked where they painted it, and there is paint overspray on the ground😂

I like to use the term: "Dupont Overhaul". :wink_2:

I've seen drywall finishers use a rigid plastic rectangle on a stick as a shield when painting around windows. Possibly make one with a cutout radius to hold against the rim as you spray. 
Or you could always dismount the tires off the rims... ffcheesy

for the right 2 duals, I did cut a thin piece of cardboard on the laser engraver and tucked it in, but it took more time.  this worked well.   I sprayed my first rim paint job at age 14 on my F100 ford truck.  I have owned this truck for over 30 years, and it was old but well cared for as a state truck and then owned by an individual who recorded all maintenance and repairs.  

Yesterday, the edger blades were ready to be changed after all of the dirty cypress we ran through the past week or so.  I need to order the split blades that CustomSawyer shared a link to.  (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/22883/IMG_9299.jpeg) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pid=358919)

Replaced the clutch master cylinder on my son's 2007 Accord. I've had the good fortune (???) of doing this job 4x over the years although the first time on this particular car. Seems to be a common failure. It's not a hard job at all, other than the access. If you've ever done this job, you'll understand how much fun it wasn't. The master cylinder is located directly behind the clutch pedal, which is under the windshield cowl, behind the shock tower, around the brake booster and though a tiny hole smaller than my hand. Aiieee! Both my son and I made sacrifices to the sharp metal gods.

Then the bleed screw was seized up and it took forever to get it primed and bled.  But it's done now and he's back on the road.

Got different brake wheel cylinders coming for the dump truck.  been working on the shop.  the camper is not switching to shore power when plugged in.  breakers ok. extension cord and adaptors have continuity.  Plan to get the wire to put in a dedicated line near the camper.  Conduent was place at the time of the build.  getting a 40-yard dumpster to haul off all the stuff that needs to go.  maybe that will unjinx the parts for the F700. :snowball: ffsmiley

Just came home from my cousin's funeral in Higgins, Texas.  My heart burst when I saw my Uncle's 1973 John Deere 4230 neglected for about 13 years.  He has been dead since 1998.  He bought it new in 1973 when he bought the farm from my Dad and his brothers and sisters.  I wanted Grandpa's John Deere Model D tractor, but Uncle Woody traded it on the 4230.  The tractor has never left the farm.  So sentimental value is very high to me.
 Anyway, the photos show my new shade tree project and the shed roof around it, as my cousin agreed to sell it to me for $5000.  Just gotta get it on my trailer and haul it 580 miles.

Good for you !!   ffcool

Lynn,
    It's like God kept it waiting for me to get my act back together!

I really don't need another long term project, but I would regret not getting it.

Over the years my, Uncle's youngest daughter's kids moved down here.  Now their Mom moved down here after her husband died last year.  So they will be within an hour's drive of riding in their Grandpa's tractor again!

Family Farm tractors can be the best! (or the worst)

I hope you get it up and running proud again.  I think that was a pretty good series of JD's

At $5000 you can't go wrong, worth that in parts alone. Good pre-emissions tractors sell strong at auction. All the tins are straight and the cab glass is intact, hopefully the back tire holds air, see it still has plenty of tread.

All 4 tires are flat and I think the right front has a puncture in it.  Rodent droppings inside the cab too.

Maybe just an oil change, check the air filter and a shot of ether, some temp air to get it on the trailer and a new battery, and home she goes...If you are lucky. :snowball:  ffsmiley ffsmiley ffsmiley

I got a 12000# winch that I fit into a receiver hitch mounted high on the gooseneck.  Gonna double up the cable with a snatch block and winch it on.  Hopefully, I will be able to get it into neutral.

Let me know if you want your money back.   :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Quote from: Magicman on June 05, 2025, 07:28:23 PMLet me know if you want your money back.  :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Who? What?

I would even let you deliver it to me.   :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Quote from: Resonator on June 05, 2025, 02:01:31 PMAt $5000 you can't go wrong, worth that in parts alone. Good pre-emissions tractors sell strong at auction. All the tins are straight and the cab glass is intact, hopefully the back tire holds air, see it still has plenty of treads

All 4 treads look good.

Sorry MM, this is a Texas :sunny: machine and always will be.

When JD came out with that soundguard cab that made a lot of red guys buy JD green tractors. I have spent thousands of hours in a sound guard cab farming. First tractor I had that had AC in it was a JD 4030. It was pretty rough when I bought it and I fixed it up and used it for years. Its still in the area. I farmed for a lot of years with a pair of JD 4840's. I still have one JD 4440 in the shed that is, was my batwing mower tractor. I bought a 7230 FWA to take its place a few years back and just never sold the 4440. Around here that 4230 would bring ten to twelve thousand setting like it is. I always liked the 30,40,50,55 series JD tractors but the planters and grain carts got so big I had to move into the 8000 series and they are older tractors now. I will probably never have a R series JD. Hope it doesn't need a lot to get the 4230 going again. 

Congratulations and enjoy the restoration trip! Glad the JD will finally get a little love again  ffwave

Quote from: TimW on June 05, 2025, 10:58:32 PMSorry MM, this is a Texas :sunny: machine and always will be.

Don't mean to be argumentative, (yes I do) but hauling it on a Texas trailer being pulled by a Texas truck is Texas enough for me. 

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Benjamins are waiting.   ffcheesy

Put your money away Lynn.  I already got a waiting list for tractor rides on "Pop's" tractor from my cousin's Kids and Grandkids.  Pop was what my cousin's called their Dad.

OK you won by throwing in sympathy stuff like;  "Pop's" tractor.  cousin's Kids, and Grandkids.  

Seriously, I am loving what you are doing.  I also have a Papaw's tractor at the farm.  It's a 1974 "1530" John Deere.   ffsmiley

So that will make us JD brothers. ffcool

Absolutely!!   ffcool

So, can I join the club? I've got a JD5420, 630(two lunger), and x730 garden tractor. ffcool

I defer to the Gentleman from Mississippi.
But okay by me.

JD 850

Go Green !!   ffcool

That 4230 is a great tractor! We have a 4430 and use it virtually every day. They're super dependable.  Someday I'd like to go all the way through ours, but it's usually hooked to something.

One of our older Deere's was a 2950. Had no cab. Hydrostatic shift, so only needed the clutch to stop short. One of the best tractors made. 

Did a quick "prop swap" on a customer's Maule.  He wants off the ground a little quicker and this finally got approved.
John

Just a little more bite!  How long have you been an aircraft mechanic?

Like the oversize bush tires, thinking it's setup for STOL? :huh?

Yup, making STOL a bit shorter, on the STO anyway.   ffcool

 Does a 1953 J.D. R ,1947 A , 1937 and 1951 Bs count? The farm has a 4230 that's still running even tho the farm isn't. The R is going to stay original (it's the same yr as me) but the Bs were painted awhile ago so I will be working on them to pretty them up. The A is unstyled and needs a complete going through. But before all of that a 46 Massy Harris will go into the shed, the motor was done at the tech school by my chopper's grandson, the rest is up to me.

Quote from: TimW on June 07, 2025, 11:15:46 AMJust a little more bite!  How long have you been an aircraft mechanic?

Yikes...42 years!!! (usually it doesn't seem that long...)  I do mostly fabric work anymore, but still do enough annuals to keep my Inspection Authorization current.
Definitely set up for STOL. He dumps a pile of money in it every year, but had all that power and couldn't get it utilized. This prop STC was a welcomed modification!
JH

Those look like monster truck tires compared to what my dad had on his 1947 Piper Supercruiser. We bounced in and out of farm fields many times in the 80's when I was a kid. Don't know how short a stretch he could take off in, but we'd always clear of the trees when he pulled the stick back. ffcheesy

Quote from: Resonator on June 08, 2025, 11:46:28 AMbut we'd always clear of the trees when he pulled the stick back.

I had a good friend that was a bit overloaded on takeoff and he did not clear the trees.  He did not make it and neither did his wife nor son.  

I have 42 years hands on too.  Was trying to get to 50 years and get the Charles Taylor Award from the FAA.  But when covid came and early retirement bonus came out, I took it and ran.
Specialized in helicopter and aircraft structures (tin bender) and retired from SWA with 28 years.  I love rebuilding wrecked or wore out helicopters.  My barn shop reminder of my helicopter days....

That was one thing my dad never did was crash, I think he was just as much lucky as he was a good pilot. That old taildragger had only manual hand-foot controls (you had to know how to use your feet on the pedals as much as your hands to fly). Also just a 2 way radio, no GPS or other computers like today, only navigated by map and a compass. 

Previous post removed due to privacy concerns. If your post was removed, you know who you are. I'd suggest contacting the member that you would like to learn from in a P.M., and then they, if inclined can answer privately, or how ever they decide.. This really is not a public forum conversation unless both parties agreed. Thanks.

Tim W, I did a little helo work, but not that much. I worked on a seismic crew on the birds for a little while too. It was always interesting.  Never had any desire to go to heavies. I always had a passion for old stuff, and round engines. I'm still teaching classes for fabric and do quite a bit of cover work for a museum in the area.
I had the parts for a fan like that and let a friend talk me out of it... I always thought they were cool!  

I need to pull the 48" deck from under the WheelHorse 314-8 and see what is dragging the blade speed down.
believe me, I'm not looking forward to dragging that heavy deck out.  I may need two Celebrex when I'm done.
Darn gumball threw the deck belt off. downward so the belt was squeezed between the top of the deck and the pulley.  The pulley and belt covers were on the deck.
Cost-  two belts, PTO and deck.

Quote from: hardtailjohn on June 09, 2025, 10:30:44 AMTim W, I did a little helo work, but not that much. I worked on a seismic crew on the birds for a little while too. It was always interesting.  Never had any desire to go to heavies. I always had a passion for old stuff, and round engines. I'm still teaching classes for fabric and do quite a bit of cover work for a museum in the area.
I had the parts for a fan like that and let a friend talk me out of it... I always thought they were cool! 

Round engines is what got my fire burning.  Right out of A&P school, the boss was putting a Stearman together. Beech 18 and a Cessna 195 came in regularly for MX.  Left general aviation to the airlines to provide for the family.  Only worked on helicopter structures.  Was so good doing that, boss wouldn't let me turn wrenches on them.  We had more work and overtime than mechanics too.  I miss those early days in aviation.  After 911, aviation lost it's glory.  Even the airlines with Pam Am and Braniff around were fun then.  I started A&P school at Braniff's school at Love Field.  Glad to see you are still living your dream.
Oh yeah, I did a little dope and fabric and loved doing that too.  Back then, we had the Goodyear blimp America based in Spring, just down the road.  It was flying over one day and the boss said he turned down a bid to recover it's control surfaces.

Blimp, did someone mention blimp? 

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I had the Chick-Fil-A blimp to fly over me at the Cabin a few years ago.  An hour or so later, Son, Marty called me.  He was passing through Baton Rouge and it flew over him.  I think that it was headed toward California.  Just neat that we were that far apart and both saw it.

Blimps are incredible to see in person. So big and weird. I saw the Goodyear blimp float by years ago, when they'd first come out (I think) with the giant screens on the side of it. Very strange, and my dog barked it's fool head off.

Goodyear blimps are celebrating their 100th anniversary this year.

So that makes you way older than Magic Man! ffcheesy

Ha! I didn't see them when the blimps first came out, I saw the blimps with the TV-ish screens when they first came out (but I'm also guessing it's when the screens were first added, or shortly thereafter).

I spent 3 years working for a round engine overhaul facility in WA. Started out in the cylinder shop and worked every position there, then became the field service and  tech rep for them for a couple years. It was an absolute dream job! Got to go all over the world and saw some pretty "interesting" sights. My favorites were always Canada and Alaska. That's the one job I do miss, and it opened up a lot of oppotunities for me, but I came home to take care of the ranch and my parents in 1996, and here I am still... and still not regretting it.
JH

Quote from: aigheadish on June 11, 2025, 07:10:14 AMHa! I didn't see them when the blimps first came out, I saw the blimps with the TV-ish screens when they first came out (but I'm also guessing it's when the screens were first added, or shortly thereafter).

Well, I wasn't sure if you were talking about when the blimps came out or the screens on the blimps. ffcheesy ffcheesy ffcheesy

Quote from: hardtailjohn on June 11, 2025, 08:46:32 AMI spent 3 years working for a round engine overhaul facility in WA. Started out in the cylinder shop and worked every position there, then became the field service and  tech rep for them for a couple years. It was an absolute dream job! Got to go all over the world and saw some pretty "interesting" sights. My favorites were always Canada and Alaska. That's the one job I do miss, and it opened up a lot of oppotunities for me, but I came home to take care of the ranch and my parents in 1996, and here I am still... and still not regretting it.
JH

When I just got my license at 19, the boss would send me on parts runs, as I was the only one with a pickup.  One parts house at Hobby was a Mom and Pop shop.  They had a round motor overhaul shop in back.  I loved going in there.  It was like a kid in a candy store.  Went to a grass strip in Pearland once to pick up a Stearman prop.  The old barn tin building had enough Stearman parts to build 12 planes.  Again, kid in a candy store!  

I built the engine for this one, then travelled with it and took care of it for a few years. At that time, it was the only one of that model left flying in the world. 1929 Fairchild 71.  There's at least 2 in the air now.

Fairchild built great planes back then.  Did it have a super plush interior? The Cessna 195 did.

Quote from: TimW on June 11, 2025, 11:31:50 PMFairchild built great planes back then.  Did it have a super plush interior? The Cessna 195 did.

Standard for 1929 was wicker seats and plywood.  It was actually built to carry the huge Fairchild camera in the belly, taking high altitude photos.  From there, they were all pressed into some sort of service. They were a great load hauler, so many ended up on floats in the north country.  It flew like a great big Cub. Very gentle and not fast!