I wasn't sure exactly where to put it but I figured that since it's welding for my sawmill or sawmill support equipment it could fit in the sawmill section. Mods feel free to move it if you so desire, I won't lose any sleep over it!
So...whatcha welding?
Yesterday's project started when I got my hydraulic cylinders back from the local hyd./machine shop after I had bent em. He bought new ones and then hacked off my old pin bosses and welded em on to the new cylinders. Well I had to do some repairing to the loader tractor.
Before:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3782.JPG)
After: (Kinda hard to tell I plated it too, and no I'm not buying JD Green paint :D just use what I got)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3786.JPG)
Then I noticed this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3787.JPG)
I just grount it down using a die grinder with the little carbide burr bits and welded it cold so that the weld didn't burn through to the inside of the pin boss.
So next I mounted the pallet forks and noticed that now the barrel is a little bit bigger, and the barrel would hit the loader arm before the cylinder would retract all the way. The forks never did tilt back enough, because whoever cobbed them up didn't spend much time on them. You would almost think that they had a truck coming for a delivery that needed pallets unloaded and they built em on the spot. Anyways, so I decided that if I moved the bottom pivot point it would tilt back further and cylinder should now be able to retract all the way without hitting.
Before:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3796.JPG)
15/16 of the way done:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3801.JPG)
I ran out of welding rods, and don't have any shielding gas for my MIG, so alot of the welding I did towards the end on the gussets was done using little nubs of 7018 I had previously tossed on the ground with very low life left. It took awhile, but I got it to where I believe I have enough. I also finally cut out some notches for the forks to lock in place, and I cut out notches for the forks to slide the whole run of the plate, before, they only slid in from one side until they hit the mounts, the guy had notched hacked out one side but not the other. I still need to weld on little locks for the pins and then paint it. That I'll do tomorrow morning before I get to sawing some walnut.
This one I posted awhile ago but it's a peavy that wouldn't bite. I kinda tried making it into a cant/peavy hook:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_2241.JPG)
Roller dragback table I did a few weeks back:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3756.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/34510/IMG_3758.JPG)
Still need to finish it up, just a couple more things to do yet.
Just finished up a box mover... All arc welded with my vintage Seras welder.
Anyone tried the new ac welding rods. I think they work pretty good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Finished_1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Sears_welder.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Welding_rods_80T_AC_Plus.jpg)
That's the same stick welder I have, got it from Sears years ago!
Quote from: valley ranch on December 13, 2015, 12:48:01 AM
That's the same stick welder I have, got it from Sears years ago!
Thats back when they made them good with real copper wire inside.
Not like the cheap alum wound junk sold today.
yup thats what I used was ac rod. Works great
Was clearing some land yesterday with my backhoe. Of course I busted a pin on the hoe bucket. Pulled it, a little grinding and welded it back together. ;D No place around to buy a new pin on Saturdays. ;D
Bad think is that I'm not suppose to weld anymore do to having a pacemaker. :o One of these days welding, I going to get one shock of a life time from the CRT-D and that ain't no fun. Been there and done that a few times.
The only time I get shocked welding is when I try welding it in the rain.
I have learned to put the new rod under my arm when reloading, not in my hand.
It's not the welding that will shock me. It's the pacemaker. It's a CRT-D. That D stands for defibulator. And yes, it has knocked me out a few times already. :o Then again, I'm not suppose to use a chainsaw too! But I do. ;D
Hello 4x4American, and anyone else that has 1.
That peavey with the little pointy nub that you welded on.
How does it work for you. I have a half dozen peavy's and can't hooks, but none have that little nub.
How does it work for you now.
Sometimes on certain sized logs I find myself trying 1 or 3 different peavy's to get 1 that will take a hold of the log.
That little modification looks like it would help me quite a bit.
Thanks
Chris
Is that the better part of a Cletrac that I see in the picture of your log arch? Cletracs are getting scarce in these parts. Regards, Clark
Quote from: snowshoveler on December 13, 2015, 07:58:45 AM
Hello 4x4American, and anyone else that has 1.
That peavey with the little pointy nub that you welded on.
How does it work for you. I have a half dozen peavy's and can't hooks, but none have that little nub.
How does it work for you now.
Sometimes on certain sized logs I find myself trying 1 or 3 different peavy's to get 1 that will take a hold of the log.
That little modification looks like it would help me quite a bit.
Thanks
Chris
At your first opportunity, get a Logrite and enjoy the new benefits that overcome the frustration you are having with the old. Many others already have done that.
Quote from: sealark37 on December 13, 2015, 08:59:40 AM
Is that the better part of a Cletrac that I see in the picture of your log arch? Cletracs are getting scarce in these parts. Regards, Clark
Yep.... Here is a link to that project.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,86981.0.html
I have a Lincoln 225 AC machine, tried some of the "80TAC Plus" rods recently and really like them (I had asked for 7018 AC but they were out). I may never buy 7018 AC again.
I have an old (1987 vintage) Lincoln 225 - assuming AC as it doesn't have a DC setting :-\ Learned to weld with 6013 (and 6011) on old steel. Riding BART one day, sat next to a young man who turns out was a very accomplished welder. He talked me into trying 7018 - told me to stick with it until I "got it". Well, took some time. I tried various diameters and amps but finally figured it out. Its expensive here -about $2.50 to $3.00/pound. Picked up a 50 pound box off of CraigsList for $40 and its working pretty well.
So tell me more about the 80TAC. How does it compare, welding-wise, to 7018? I still have difficulty starting an arc every once in a while, especially if the flux splits off the end a little. I find I need to have a little higher amps than I like to get a good bead going. Even with swirling, I get a little undercutting. Is the 80TAC better at a little lower amps?
Some of my projects:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/20140128_LogArch2.jpg)
Four Five Six in one (this picture is sort of a "where's Waldo" search...): On the left is a little 4x5 trailer I made mainly for my ATV but licensed it for road use. I can fit my son's little ATV in it with my big one in the truck. Behind it is a set of grey Ts (actually capital Is but you can't see the bottom). These are scaffolding uprights made from lightweight structural C channel scrap. Next is the log arch that I need to get a better winch on it. The 6' bucket is used on my SkyTrak, though I have mangled it again for like the 5th time. Off on the right is a boat trailer that I added structural channel (3") to make it a flat bed. Recently added some tie down points. Sitting on the tail of the trailer is a little 42" skid steer bucket that I mounted on the SkyTrak first and crumpled it up a couple of times :-\
The log arch before:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/LogArch-1.jpg)
My Band Mill (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,84444.msg1290881.html#msg1290881):
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/First_Cedar_2_20150930.jpg)
Thumb addition to my Davis Little Monster (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,80813.msg1229655.html#msg1229655) :
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/DLM_Thumb_10.JPG)
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
I have an old (1987 vintage) Lincoln 225 - assuming AC as it doesn't have a DC setting :-\ Learned to weld with 6013 (and 6011) on old steel. Riding BART one day, sat next to a young man who turns out was a very accomplished welder. He talked me into trying 7018 - told me to stick with it until I "got it". Well, took some time. I tried various diameters and amps but finally figured it out. Its expensive here -about $2.50 to $3.00/pound. Picked up a 50 pound box off of CraigsList for $40 and its working pretty well.
So tell me more about the 80TAC. How does it compare, welding-wise, to 7018? I still have difficulty starting an arc every once in a while, especially if the flux splits off the end a little. I find I need to have a little higher amps than I like to get a good bead going. Even with swirling, I get a little undercutting. Is the 80TAC better at a little lower amps?
My Lincoln machine is even older than yours (early 70s) but they seem to last forever.
I will continue to use 6011 for most work - better penetration, metal does not have to be as clean and lower cost.
In the past, I used 7018 for welding high carbon steel as the 6011 is subject to brittleness when used on high carbon steel. The 80TAC is slightly higher strength. They seemed to get better penetration than 7018 and are easier to re-strike. They have less flux, making them easier to use on vertical welds. I don't do a lot of welding so only bought a small box - they are not cheap but neither are 7018 AC. Considering total project cost, a few dollars on welding rods is not really a big deal.
Quote from: Den-Den on December 13, 2015, 02:15:37 PM
My Lincoln machine is even older than yours (early 70s) but they seem to last forever.
I will continue to use 6011 for most work - better penetration, metal does not have to be as clean and lower cost.
In the past, I used 7018 for welding high carbon steel as the 6011 is subject to brittleness when used on high carbon steel. The 80TAC is slightly higher strength. They seemed to get better penetration than 7018 and are easier to re-strike. They have less flux, making them easier to use on vertical welds. I don't do a lot of welding so only bought a small box - they are not cheap but neither are 7018 AC. Considering total project cost, a few dollars on welding rods is not really a big deal.
True, but I went through 4 or 5 ten pound boxes (over $100 worth) using down to tiny stubs to get my money's worth. When i came across the 50# box for $40, I was in heaven! I don't seem to have a problem with the penetration - I'm running pretty high amps to get it to run smoothly.
I had picked up an OLD 10# tube of some sort of military issue rod, 1/8" 347-15 ??? I tried it years ago but couldn't get it to go. I tried it again, now that I can do 7018, and found I could make it work. I was welding some thin wall (1/16") square tube and my 5/32" 7018 wasn't cutting it. This 1/8" stuff was working good for that application at a much lower amp setting. Started actually welding instead of melting ::)
If you want to talk about $$$$$ try some Nicads. Last ones I bought was $4.00 per 1/8" rod.
Used for cast iron and works good for things like spring steel or powdered metals.
In the last 10 years I think I used around 400lbs of Nicad rods.
Quote from: snowshoveler on December 13, 2015, 07:58:45 AM
Hello 4x4American, and anyone else that has 1.
That peavey with the little pointy nub that you welded on.
How does it work for you. I have a half dozen peavy's and can't hooks, but none have that little nub.
How does it work for you now.
Sometimes on certain sized logs I find myself trying 1 or 3 different peavy's to get 1 that will take a hold of the log.
That little modification looks like it would help me quite a bit.
Thanks
Chris
It is definitely worth a shot. This peavy is pretty much garbage, I got it years back off Baileys, and I never should have bought it lol. This definitely helped, but the whole hook part is wrong. I got a 60" Logrite PV and have never looked back. Works great, and the owners are great too. I also have a stubby logrite cant hook and it also works great. It's not a mill special but it's close.
Been welding for 35 years. Always use 7014 rods. They strike easy and burn smooth. Vertical welding , I use 6011s. Thanks
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 13, 2015, 05:35:36 PM
If you want to talk about $$$$$ try some Nicads. Last ones I bought was $4.00 per 1/8" rod.
Used for cast iron and works good for things like spring steel or powdered metals.
In the last 10 years I think I used around 400lbs of Nicad rods.
I haven't used nicad in years. The welds always made me think cold and ugly. Maybe my technique was poor.
I do braze a lot of cast iron with great success. A little gear I did a few years ago out of an old machine. It got two steel threaded implants than built up the rest with braze.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/DSCF6948.JPG)
Anybody have suggestions what to use for welding O-1 drill rod to low carbon steel? After the welding the assembly is heat treated to really hard. I'm making wood lathe tool rests similar to Robust models, with a hardened top rail.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
How does it compare, welding-wise, to 7018? I still have difficulty starting an arc every once in a while, especially if the flux splits off the end a little.
If you have trouble starting an arc with 7018, you might try just before you go to weld scratching your electrode tip along the concrete just a short bit to get it bright and shiny. Seems to work for me.
Righto about 7018. I always use a small grinder to resurface the tip when I lose the arc - which is often.
Bob
You also need to keep your 7018 dry. To be proper about it, you are supposed to store them in an oven. I have about 10 pounds of 7018 that I found behind the seat of my old 89 Dodge, it got too wet, can hardly strike an arc or get it to burn properly. For welding vertical, you want to be pushing with a heavy angle, and if you can I find it's easier to watch the arc come towards me or above and to the side a bit. Hold it there for longer than you might think. The stuff falling is just slag, don't pay it no nevermind, watch the puddle directly behind the rod, keep that heavy push angle, and go slower than you would if you were welding horizontal.
Nice job on that gear Larry
Quote from: Gumneck on December 13, 2015, 08:49:08 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 01:40:52 PM
How does it compare, welding-wise, to 7018? I still have difficulty starting an arc every once in a while, especially if the flux splits off the end a little.
If you have trouble starting an arc with 7018, you might try just before you go to weld scratching your electrode tip along the concrete just a short bit to get it bright and shiny. Seems to work for me.
I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 09:49:35 PM
I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\
Do you tap to start or drag to start? When you break off flux like that, just long arc it (on an unimportant piece of steel) until you get down to normal flux. Also, try some AC rod. It's specifically meant for AC welding and you might have better luck at it.
Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 09:53:34 PM
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 13, 2015, 09:49:35 PM
I do that but then it tends to pop off some of the flux. Then I have bare rod and it arcs like crazy all over the place! My problem is more that it sticks as I'm trying to start the arc. Gets real frustrating real fast. Heats the rod, the flux breaks off as the rod bends, on and on... Was told to use DC and reverse the polarity. Don't have that option on my old tombstone :-\
Do you tap to start or drag to start? When you break off flux like that, just long arc it (on an unimportant piece of steel) until you get down to normal flux. Also, try some AC rod. It's specifically meant for AC welding and you might have better luck at it.
I drag start. Sometimes I tap to pop the glass off the tip. I do do a long arc it to clean it up, when I can get it to go without sticking ::) It is AC rod (so it says). I just find high amps works the best for me. My daughter took a welding class at the local JC. She says I should get a new welder that has the high-amp start option... I'm too cheap for that :D
Have you cleaned up all of the connections?
I just gotta show you two welders in my collecion...
The one with the glass rectifiers bulbs might be the oldest welder in USA.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/dialaweld1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Oldest_welder~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/welder2~0.JPG)
Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 10:07:11 PM
Have you cleaned up all of the connections?
You mean like my ground clamp to the steel and electrode clamp? I don't wire-brush them clean but I make sure the clamp is on clean metal and wiggle it to make sure it has good contact. I have caught myself trying to strike an arc when I didn't put the ground clamp on :-X
I meant the connections inside the welder and everywhere a connection is made on on the leads. Can never hurt to make sure they're clean and tight.
Quote from: 4x4American on December 13, 2015, 10:28:36 PM
I meant the connections inside the welder and everywhere a connection is made on on the leads. Can never hurt to make sure they're clean and tight.
I suppose its worth a look. Haven't opened it in the 28 years I've owned it. Thanks for the idea.
Unless you are welding new/bright/clean metal, 6011 rod will solve most of your issues. I have burned a LOT of rod with my old Lincoln crackerbox and find 6011 to work in all my applications. 7018 has always been problematic for me in my portable gasoline welder and my crackerbox (tombstone) welders.
No doubt, 6011/6013 will weld anything. BUT, since I've tried 7018, it is soooo much cleaner! A LOT less cleanup time.
It seems that since I learned to "kinda" weld in high school...my entire life has been a "welding project". :D
Most of my welding is portable, so true mig is out, unless I use flux core.
My go to welder is a Miller Bobcat 250.
This is an 18" extension I bubble gummed together to get the swing cylinders on my log loader above the gooseneck on my trailer.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12769/photo_12.JPG)
This is a hydraulic pump mount I slapped together on the same project.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12769/23.JPG)
And then there's my little mill. It was a pretty good welding project/plumbing experiment. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/12769/Sugar_Pine_1.JPG)
Plumbing experiment lol lol lol
looks good rp.
If I'm stick welding it's almost always 7018. You can weld in any position with it with proper form, and it's dang strong. I don't really like 6011
You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.
Quote from: dustyhat on December 14, 2015, 08:25:38 AM
You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.
What would you say is one of the best brand welders for arc welding ?
Welders or welding rods, i like esab, hobart and lincoln rods, just not ac 7018 lincoln. a brand i ran across was wasington alloy, i thought was a lesser brand rod my local machine shop carryed . found out was a really great rod. welders , there so many great brands . i do own a few lincolns and a few hobarts. but im a gear head like you guys and love them all.
I usually use rod from TSC, I think it's branded as Hobart. I run 7018 for everything now. I advocate running what you've got, but the best performance is going to come from a DC welder. Around here, you can get older DC welders cheap. I got my Idealarc for $25 at an auction. Lincoln is my favorite, but any old, heavy welder should be fine.
One of my better welding projects was this cart. It has large casters and rolls quite easy. Rewired the welders to both work off one extension cord. Long enough I can wheel it right out in the drive. Also has a power strip for right angle grinders.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/2011_07030002.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/2011_07030003.JPG)
I think I bought the Lincoln about 1980. The fan started squeaking a few years ago and I had to take the machine apart to give it a little lube. The only problem in 35 years and it has had a lot of use.
I added the Hobart mig about 6 years ago and to date it also has been perfect. Its a 187 and wished it was one size bigger, but it does the job. I use a large argon tank with it.
If I were to buy an arc welder it'd be a DC one, but I got this one given to me for helping a feller out with his sawmill. Can't complain its better than my Hobart 140. I think that the Hobart 7018ac rod welds better than the Lincoln, but the smell is awful. It smells like burning ketchup. If I were to guess, I'd say they made it like that on purpose to help folks learn to not breathe it in. Cause usually I like the smell and I suck it right in. Sometimes I bottle it up and suck it out through a straw when I'm relaxing. The excalibur rod from Lincoln isn't bad, but I think it's a DC rod
Larry that cart is great I gotta make something cause rolling them around on skateboards is getting old.
I have and use a DC converter on my welder. Sure does make a difference.
Smoother and a quite weld.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 13, 2015, 01:20:12 AM
Quote from: valley ranch on December 13, 2015, 12:48:01 AM
That's the same stick welder I have, got it from Sears years ago!
Thats back when they made them good with real copper wire inside.
Not like the cheap alum wound junk sold today.
I was talking to a tech at Miller (I think it was Jeff Johnson) a few years back about my (2010) Syncrowave 250 and just out of curiosity I asked him whether it had a copper or aluminum meatball and he said aluminum was actually (surprisingly) superior to copper for some things (not sure whether he meant the primary or secondary) ... and not just cost. This was definitely surprising to me, and for the life of me I can't remember why he said it was better...
Whatever it is, it's still 500 pounds of some kind of metal! (I've also got a Miller 330A/BP stick/TIG power source from 1978 and I know that's all copper wound ... 800 pounds worth ... but I'm not sure it welds any better than the Sync, although it does get a bit hotter for heavy aluminum ... 465A of AC baby! 8) )
I use a little Hobart buzz box. It really has served me well. I use Hobart-branded rods as well. If I can't clean off the metal surface and root passes I burn 6011. For clean metal surfaces 7018. It gives very nice, clean results and it supposed to be strong too.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 14, 2015, 08:34:18 AM
Quote from: dustyhat on December 14, 2015, 08:25:38 AM
You guys that weld with ac only 7018 rods , shop around different brands weld better than others , Lincoln is one of my least favorites in 7018 ac rods.
What would you say is one of the best brand welders for arc welding ?
I have found that the engine driven welders with three-phase welding generators have a superior arc as compared to smaller 240VAC buzz boxes. DC definitely welds better than AC for most steel (I prefer reverse polarity).
My Miller Trailblazer Pro diesel welder is hard to beat when it comes to arc welding.
Re 7018 versus 6013 versus 6011, yes 7018 welds easier in all positions but it is a relatively low penetrating rod. On most mild steel, if you want the strongest possible combination most pipefitters swear by a root pass with 6010 on DC RP followed by cap passes with 7018 as providing the best overall combination. IMO 6010 on DC produces a smoother weld than 6011 on AC.
I just remembered that we have a retired welding instructor (Qweaver) right here on the FF! Now if anybody can make a knowledgeable recommendation, it's Quinton.
Hopefully he will chime in with his thoughts....
Up here in Canada I use 7014 and 7018 for 95% of my stuff... sometimes I'll use 6011 for a good root pass and tacking. I buy the Lincoln AC rod... runs great on my old 1980s Acklands AC Sizzler. I absolutely HATE BlueShield rod... I only like their LA S-6 solid MIG wire (but their gas-less wire is terrible too). A little while back I was teaching myself overhead: working on the ground actually above my head: the Blueshield 7018 was just terrible, so hard to start an arc... what a terrible experience! Switched over to 7014 Lincoln and all was good. Your mileage will vary.
My favorite welder that I've logged quite a few hours on was a Miller XMT304 wired with 3 phase power. Mainly used it for MIG, sometimes stick, and occasionally for carbon arcing. The Millermatic 200 is a good wire feeding unit too. I really want to get into TIG welding. Have not done much, but have done a bit.
I am so glad to see a post that I can actually post on. Being a welder I have lots of projects
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/20150311_160118.jpg)
This is large read on a pressure vessel 1.125 thick repad, on a 2" thick vessel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/IMG_0505.JPG)
This is a water header with 52 nineties coming into it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/IMG_0392.JPG)
And alittle tungsten holder I made as I waited on a fitter in a chemical plant.
I have tons more just don't wanna bore anyone.
Also on a side above about 7018. If it gets wet all you have to do is heat it slightly above 212 degrees and it will weld a lot better. We do it all the time by wrapping in foil and setting on the manifolds of our welding machines when we get caught without rod ovens.
Quote from: Down_hand_dave on December 14, 2015, 11:19:49 PM
I am so glad to see a post that I can actually post on. Being a welder I have lots of projects
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/20150311_160118.jpg)
This is large read on a pressure vessel 1.125 thick repad, on a 2" thick vessel.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/IMG_0505.JPG)
This is a water header with 52 nineties coming into it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/IMG_0392.JPG)
And alittle tungsten holder I made as I waited on a fitter in a chemical plant.
I have tons more just don't wanna bore anyone.
Also on a side above about 7018. If it gets wet all you have to do is heat it slightly above 212 degrees and it will weld a lot better. We do it all the time by wrapping in foil and setting on the manifolds of our welding machines when we get caught without rod ovens.
Bring it on... We all want to see pictures. welding goes right along with any sawmill.
Sometimes if I get a wet rod or two I will just stick the rod untill steam stops coming
off of it.
I know my old sears is all copper because I was into it a few times and I know
I would never trade it for any alum one. I agree that any motor driven generator
welder is the best. So smooth.
Yea bring em on I enjoyed those pictures, really cool!
Cody, who works with me, is enrolled in Moran Ironworks, http://moraniron.com/ , Industrial Arts Institute, http://iaiworks.com/ , Comprehensive Industrial Welding Course. He starts classes January 4. He's excited about it. So am I 8) I'd like to take their 8 week night course to learn what I do wrong when I weld ;) ;D
I've got two Lincoln 225 buzz boxes. One my Grandpa bought new a long time ago. It still works like it always has. I got a smoking deal on a newer one that I couldn't pass up. I've also got an older Lincoln Weldan Power portable gas powered welder. I like it but the carb on the 16hp Briggs is sensitive to this new junk gas and requires constant cleaning :( It's also really loud 8) :-\
Quote from: SineWave on December 14, 2015, 09:11:32 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 13, 2015, 01:20:12 AM
Quote from: valley ranch on December 13, 2015, 12:48:01 AM
That's the same stick welder I have, got it from Sears years ago!
Thats back when they made them good with real copper wire inside.
Not like the cheap alum wound junk sold today.
I was talking to a tech at Miller (I think it was Jeff Johnson) a few years back about my (2010) Syncrowave 250 and just out of curiosity I asked him whether it had a copper or aluminum meatball and he said aluminum was actually (surprisingly) superior to copper for some things (not sure whether he meant the primary or secondary) ... and not just cost. This was definitely surprising to me, and for the life of me I can't remember why he said it was better...
Whatever it is, it's still 500 pounds of some kind of metal! (I've also got a Miller 330A/BP stick/TIG power source from 1978 and I know that's all copper wound ... 800 pounds worth ... but I'm not sure it welds any better than the Sync, although it does get a bit hotter for heavy aluminum ... 465A of AC baby! 8) )
My Miller 330 A/BP is a 1974, and I think the book says 840 pounds bare weight. Got it for $100 at auction.
When it comes to copper versus aluminum in welders it makes a difference in what you see and what you "feel" but actual quality it makes very little to any difference on. All of that is on the operator. But with that being said i also must say that all welders i own for stick welding or tig welding are complete copper. I have welded with just about every machine you can imagine from the old torpedo Lincolns made in the 30s to new engine driven machines made by all manufacturers. I weld in my shop with a 80 model 350 Miller syncrowave. On my welding car I have a 2013 model Lincoln sae 300. Now when it comes to mig welding I find no difference in aluminum versus copper.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41552/IMG_0846.JPG)
Just a pic of my welding rig. I built the bed from the ground up. Doesn't look like it but there is over 100 hrs of fab in it.
But i see what you really love setting on the back of that truck :laugh:
I took up welding a couple years ago. Another thing i needed to know how to do. :D
I built this alum chip box as my first tig project. Then i built this trailer from the main frame up last june.
I love welding. Problem is everyone else knows i do so things appear and people appear with the dreaded "5 minutet job". :snowball:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19459/image~43.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/19459/image~2.jpeg)