Going to make shingles ???

Barney II · June 23, 2013, 11:03:57 PM

Have an order for some pine shingles---- opened my big mouth :D :D I am using a new siding -shingle maker --SLR. I say new only because it has never been used, built in 1985 ----takes a while to get my courage up. 8) 8) The thing looks really good having been stored inside. Read and reread the directions finally understand. Going to start in the morning provided the rain stays away. Actually going to be fun. No pictures as they no longer make film for my dads box camera :D :D

beenthere · June 23, 2013, 11:42:01 PM

If'n you won't put up pics, how about a good explanation of what you have.
And a description of the shingle maker.

Maybe even a name...... ;) Or is SLR the name? That could stand for straight line rip ;)

manoverboard · June 24, 2013, 06:37:32 AM

Please share! I ordered the attachment (Jig) for my band saw as I am very interested in this option. Let us know how it goes...

thecfarm · June 24, 2013, 06:57:17 AM

Good luck to ya! I take it you brought this attachmnet the same time you bought the mill?

bandmiller2 · June 24, 2013, 07:02:49 AM

Barney,shingles are a high labor low profit item try it before you commit to a project. Frank C.

Barney II · June 24, 2013, 08:18:01 AM

Good Morning----The SLR is on the woodmizer web site ---shingle/lap sider---I don't know where the "R" comes from.

Yep, bought the mill and the SLR at the same time, I don't think that I will wear it out at this pace :D :D :D

Not a matter of not wanting to take a picture--you need a camera to do the picture taking

This is an attachment that Woodmizer makes. So far it has gone quite well.

I was bragging up Woodmizer and how you can even make shingles. I was overheard by a fellow that took me up on the brag and that is the rest of the story.

Maybe I can borrow a camera ??? ??? ???

Planman1954 · June 24, 2013, 01:00:44 PM

Ask someone visiting if they have a cell phone. They can take a photo and email it to your computer. ;D

porcupine · June 24, 2013, 01:38:16 PM

I bought the SLR from WM about 6 months ago it still looks like new....I haven't used it yet! I would like to know the thoughts of others too.

The "SLR" is the code WM uses for internal use. I will guess the "R" = resaw?

I have attached the manual.

Slingshot · June 24, 2013, 05:01:18 PM

Is this like the machine you have? I had this one for awhile, Made a little lap siding with
it but never used it for shingles But looked like it would work OK to make them.

________________________________

GAB · June 24, 2013, 05:22:30 PM

A few years ago I purchased an SLR from a fellow who had purchased one with his mill. He was gracious enough to give me the instructions that came with it. Couple of items that might be of interest to some of you - the rest of you sorry about boring you folks.
1. The new instructions are much better than the old ones. Barry at the NY office emailed them to me and I read them twice before going out to the mill and going to college again.
2. Caution: you need to use two set points on accuset to use it. As you are going down you need to remember to change the set point during each pass, or before you change the blade height. I used 5/32" and 17/32" as my set points. Don't forget to shift the lever position between each pass on the SLR. In my case if I did not flip the lever I got some 5/32" or 17/32" thick parallel pieces that are of little value other than kindling. Hope you have a wood stove to feed your mistakes to.
3. I had a hard time resetting the cams to get what I wanted. What I sawed were 22+/-" long shingles or shakes depending on who you speak to. I finally got the first of the six positions on the SLR to where I wanted it the took a board and kept planing it until it felt right or at the same height as the cam and then adjusted the other 5 to match.
Since I used a chain saw to cut my cedar blocks I trimmed all my shingles on the radial arm saw to 21-3/4" lenght. If I hadn't trimmed them the veggie stand would sure look rustic.
I used the shingles with a 7" reveal for the roof and used the same shingles for the siding with a 10" reveal.
The bad part of using the SLR is that there is a lot of waste as you can't get too close to the SLR clamps. I took a chance once and scrapped a blade and have a rusty spot on the first clamp to remind me of my chance taking.
Someone a while back on this forum said they glued some of their left over pieces and cut more shingles out of the left over pieces. I would like to know how they prepped the left over pieces and what type of adhesive they used.
Slingshot: I have never made siding, but I sure would appreciate a heads up like I'm posting for shingles or shakes. I've been told that if the thick end is 15/32" or less then it is a shingle, and if 1/2" or thicker then it's a shake. Was this guy correct?
Gerald

Barney II · June 24, 2013, 08:05:18 PM

Yes, that is the machine that I have and yours also looks new :D :D :D I have thought about making siding and when I am done with this shingle project I might try some siding.

I only have the manual mill so I don't have to get too technical and I am glad to see someone trying to do siding.

The new directions are one heck of a lot better than what was in their book.

I can see where this is going to be something different and sort of fun---for now anyway :D :D :D :D

rmack · June 24, 2013, 08:30:33 PM

QuoteI've been told that if the thick end is 15/32" or less then it is a shingle, and if 1/2" or thicker then it's a shake. Was this guy correct?
Gerald

Shakes are split, Shingles are sawn.

Banjo picker · June 24, 2013, 08:35:50 PM

Is there any reason one of those siding attachments would not work on a four post mill...Banjo

pineywoods · June 24, 2013, 08:58:53 PM

Quote from: Banjo picker on June 24, 2013, 08:35:50 PM
Is there any reason one of those siding attachments would not work on a four post mill...Banjo

You would have to paint the mill ORANGE ;D

manoverboard · June 25, 2013, 06:58:27 AM

I ordered a similar attachment to go with my TimberKing 2000. It appears to be the same (or similar) item. Should cut much more true with the four post :D

Woodsrover · June 25, 2013, 07:54:04 AM

Let me see if I'm looking at this picture right....These things saw shingles in log-length and then you cut them to your desired width with a radial arm saw or such? They make a shingle with the grain running across the pitch of the roof? Hmmmm. Doesn't seem that this would be ideal.

I've posted pictures of my home-made shingle jig before but will again. Under $100 in materials if you have to go out and buy it. Once you get the hang of it you can whip out a load of shingles in short order. Blocks are cut 12"x12"x18" and set in the jig. I've drilled a couple nail holes to secure the block to the jig and I use a C-clamp to secure the jig to the deck. There are also little hooks on the bottom that lock into the deck.

It will cut two at a time but I find it just as fast to just do one. Your set-points are different whether you're starting at the thick or the thin end of the shingle. Not a big deal to remember. The leading edge of the block is resting on a cam that is rolled with that little lever in the front. Up on one cut, down on the next and so-on. It makes a proper shingle with the grain oriented properly.

jim blodgett · June 25, 2013, 09:08:11 AM

Nice.

rmack · June 25, 2013, 09:21:42 AM

Quote from: Woodsrover on June 25, 2013, 07:54:04 AM
Let me see if I'm looking at this picture right....These things saw shingles in log-length and then you cut them to your desired width with a radial arm saw or such? They make a shingle with the grain running across the pitch of the roof? Hmmmm. Doesn't seem that this would be ideal.

I've posted pictures of my home-made shingle jig before but will again. Under $100 in materials if you have to go out and buy it. Once you get the hang of it you can whip out a load of shingles in short order. Blocks are cut 12"x12"x18" and set in the jig. I've drilled a couple nail holes to secure the block to the jig and I use a C-clamp to secure the jig to the deck. There are also little hooks on the bottom that lock into the deck.

It will cut two at a time but I find it just as fast to just do one. Your set-points are different whether you're starting at the thick or the thin end of the shingle. Not a big deal to remember. The leading edge of the block is resting on a cam that is rolled with that little lever in the front. Up on one cut, down on the next and so-on. It makes a proper shingle with the grain oriented properly.

I believe the woodmizer jig works on the same principle as yours, but cuts 6 or 8 blocks at a time. In lap siding mode it shifts from edge to edge, shingle mode shifts from end to end.

Woodsrover · June 25, 2013, 09:33:29 AM

Quote from: rmack on June 25, 2013, 09:21:42 AM
I believe the woodmizer jig works on the same principle as yours, but cuts 6 or 8 blocks at a time. In lap siding mode it shifts from edge to edge, shingle mode shifts from end to end.

That makes more sense.