Felling Diagrams

[John Vander]

luvmexfood: Sounds like a deep split. Use an open face scarf to avoid any pressure on the split during the fall. Make sure the hinge is not too thick also, as this will cause the split to rip. Boring is best, setting the hinge securely in place before release. Conventional back cut will fail since the tree will start falling before the hinge is fully prepared, resulting in that split being pulled open by a too thick hinge. Make sure you bore in at a place where there is enough space for the bar to pass without prematurely releasing the tree. If back cut (for release cut) space is insufficient, you can bore in and cut the strap from the inside by cutting out the back. Not a wonderful method but in cases like these it is unavoidable.

[John Vander]

 

 

Releasing a HEAVY LEANER

Some folks cut the strap from the top, but there is a chance that the bar might get caught in the step at the back (see yellow arrow "A"). The cut opens safely if cut from below (B).

[John Vander]

 

 

Bucking with Wedge

A wedge inserted on the compression side is very useful to keep the cut open when bucking big logs.

[shootingarts]

John,

Just a big thanks for this thread! I had a pretty good feel for felling and working with trees once they were on the ground but there was a close to fifteen year gap before picking up a saw again lately. I have read over this thread several times and will continue to do so. Great reminders of some of the things I knew, exposing me to a lot of new things too.

I deal with a lot of storm damage sometimes. Strikes me that some of the ten thousand pound load straps for trucking cargo might add a safety factor when felling some of the split stuff. No change of techniques you are showing, just a little extra insurance against surprises by binding the split area together above the cuts. Never tried it so I don't know.

Hu

[beenthere]

John

Felling a STAG

Stags are dead trees that have no top weight since there is no crown.

I learned the term for this to be a SNAG. 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snag_(ecology)

[mesquite buckeye]

Britishspeak. The Aussies also use scarf and stag for face cut and snag.

[John Vander]

Yes, Americans call it a snag, but I'm not American.

[John Vander]

shootingarts: nothing like extra insurance!

[John Vander]

 

 

PISTOL GRIP TREE

The difficulty with this tree is that the weight of the bole and the crown face two opposite directions. If the curve in the trunk is below DBH, it can be felled like a normal leaner, but if the curve is above DBH, like 5 feet, it's a different story. Many guys think the crown weight will pull the tree over, but find that the tree stalls during the fall. Place a scarf parallel to the lean, using a tapered hinge to control the fall better, but make sure to have a safety line in place. A wedge can be used too, but pulling the tree over is much safer.

[John Vander]

 

 

SPRING POLE Storm Damage

Apart from the twin scarf method, this can also be used. Works for slender long pole-like trees that got messed up with snow or wind damage. The tension in these trees are extremely high, and it will release like a arrow from a bow if proper care is not taken. The bind needs to be released first. Make a small v scarf (1) in the same direction as the lean, but cut gingerly and slowly, checking continuously for any movement. Enlarge the scarf gradually from top and bottom (2-4). Keep checking the tree, and once sufficient bind has been released, make a back cut (5) and fell. Note that the scarf will gradually close up after each cut due to the bind. In the diagram, the scarf looks pretty large, but in reality it will look smaller as it closes. When it stops closing, or slows down, it means that the bind is released. The cutting method in reply no. 55 can be used for this situation too.

[John Vander]

 

 

HEAVY BOTTOM BIND

This situation is bottom bind at it's best. Even when cutting from below, some guys get their chainsaws slammed into the ground before they get through the log due to the speed with which it comes down. The saw can't get through the wood fast enough. By removing some of the wood, there is less that the saw needs to get through before the stump hits the ground. Make a V-cut (1), followed by side cuts (2) to remove wood. Cut from below (3) to finish. The side cuts can be made by cutting from below as well. Works very much similar to the cutting method in reply no.43.

[beenthere]

 

HEAVY BOTTOM BIND

This situation is bottom bind at it's best. Even when cutting from below, some guys get their chainsaws slammed into the ground before they get through the log due to the speed with which it comes down. The saw can't get through the wood fast enough. By removing some of the wood, there is less that the saw needs to get through before the stump hits the ground. Make a V-cut (1), followed by side cuts (2) to remove wood. Cut from below (3) to finish. The side cuts can be made by cutting from below as well. Works very much similar to the cutting method in reply no.43.

Given this problem, I would plunge cut to leave a hinge below the V-cut shown in yellow, about in the light blue top bar shown. With a good hinge (top purple bar) to keep it falling straight down and not on me.
It will drop fast when coming down through from the plunge cut so may pull out and finish the cut from the bottom. Similar to a leaning tree to keep it from splitting up the trunk both ways.

[HolmenTree]

 

PISTOL GRIP TREE

The difficulty with this tree is that the weight of the bole and the crown face two opposite directions. If the curve in the trunk is below DBH, it can be felled like a normal leaner, but if the curve is above DBH, like 5 feet, it's a different story. Many guys think the crown weight will pull the tree over, but find that the tree stalls during the fall. Place a scarf parallel to the lean, using a tapered hinge to control the fall better, but make sure to have a safety line in place. A wedge can be used too, but pulling the tree over is much safer.

John, I think a pull line should not be confused with a "safety line" in this application. With this heavy side lean only a 90° to lay guy line can be called a safety line.
My self doing residential tree removal for a living I apply many 90° to lay guy lines tensioned on heavy side liners . Tapered hinges are not always a reliable application in most tree species, only exception is DED [Dutch Elm Disease] killed American elms, but even then its strength is limited depending on size of side lean.

[John Vander]

beenthere: That's a good technique, thanks.

Holmen Tree: Thank you very much. I'll take that to the bank. (As I always do with the advice you give me.)

[HolmenTree]

beenthere: That's a good technique, thanks.

Holmen Tree: Thank you very much. I'll take that to the bank. (As I always do with the advice you give me.)

Your welcome John, I was only trying to add a bit of extra info to your thread with your excellent diagrams.

[John Vander]

Any advice from a pro is always received well. ;D

[John Vander]

 

 

Stump Shot is the height of the hinge. For heavy leaners, increase the height of the stump shot to slow the fall. Do not use a thicker hinge as this will cause the tree to split.

[beenthere]

Which direction is it leaning?

If to the side of the notch, then depending on how much lean, I would seriously consider bore cutting to form the notch before back cutting. The danger even with the high backcut is still splitting up the center and getting a barberchair.

I'm curious John.  Where is the "expertise" coming from behind the diagrams? Many good graphics, but sometimes question if there is much experience actually felling trees using these graphics or not. Would be interested in hearing from you. No offense meant.

[John Vander]

I have been felling trees now for 5 years, learned from many mistakes, received training from several professionals and I'm a licensed faller.  I do not regard myself as an expert, but there are so many accidents related to felling that I decided to post some diagrams that might help. Sorry about the diagram. I realized my mistake in drawing it. I fixed it. Thanks for mentioning it. The lean of the tree is in the same direction as the scarf.

[John Mc]

I'm curious John.  Where is the "expertise" coming from behind the diagrams? Many good graphics, but sometimes question if there is much experience actually felling trees using these graphics or not. Would be interested in hearing from you. No offense meant.

Even if there are some techniques I might not chose to use, I think this thread is a great one for provoking more thought about how to approach a situation.  It also fosters good discussion of the techniques presented.

[HolmenTree]

Even if there are some techniques I might not chose to use, I think this thread is a great one for provoking more thought about how to approach a situation.  It also fosters good discussion of the techniques presented.

I second that, John is doing a good job with his diagrams and good discussion comes out of it. It's nice to see so many different applications on felling and bucking a tree in such a clear concise visual.
A wealth of information.   

[shootingarts]

I have been felling trees now for 5 years, learned from many mistakes, received training from several professionals and I'm a licensed faller.  I do not regard myself as an expert, but there are so many accidents related to felling that I decided to post some diagrams that might help. Sorry about the diagram. I realized my mistake in drawing it. I fixed it. Thanks for mentioning it. The lean of the tree is in the same direction as the scarf.

As you illustrate, a man can learn a lot in five years if he is focused on trying to learn and do things the best way he can. I have worked with a lot of people with 20-30 years in doing one thing. Some were very expert, some were very practiced at doing the same things they were doing with three to six months experience!

At some point a person should be able to look at an individual felling problem and know how to deal with it. The more ways they know to consider the more likely they are to come up with the best and safest way to fell that particular tree although it may be something they have never seen before.

Hu

[John Mc]

I'm convinced that for most jobs, a lot of what it takes to do the job well is a desire to learn, and to care enough to do it right. Yes, experience is important, but true experience is more than just the total of your hours doing the job.

I used to work with a guy (not in logging/forestry) who used to be fond of saying "someday when you've had 20 years of experience in the industry, you'll understand this. For now, just take my word for it."  In truth, he was basically a dinosaur in his work knowledge and in his approach to dealing with people.

Someone finally shut him up by saying "You know, there's a difference between 20 years of experience, and one year of experience 20 times."

[redfin]

Please exscuse my ignorance, but when you say the "bad" side of the tree in your early posts, what do you mean?

[Ianab]

Please exscuse my ignorance, but when you say the "bad" side of the tree in your early posts, what do you mean?

Sometimes when you are cutting a tree one side may have obstructions that stop you getting away from the stump as it falls. A fence, a cliff, other trees etc. That's a "bad" place to be as the tree starts to fall. So you make any cuts needed from that side first, then go around to the 'good" side where you make the final cuts and make your escape cleanly.

Ian