Arduino Setworks (with video!)

hackberry jake · October 30, 2013, 10:31:54 PM

I was kinda hoping the tension from the weight would eliminate backlash but if it doesnt I suppose I will address the backlash in the code. Each time it changes direction I could add in a few more steps.

hackberry jake · November 13, 2013, 10:37:18 PM

Well, I got the code mostly ready, even got the code lined out for my LCD display...

Here is my high dollar motor mount adapter to mount a nema 23 stepper motor to a 40:1 c-face gear reduction box. The gear reduction shaft is actually a female 5/8" so I cut the shaft off of a bad motor and connected my three piece coupler to it.

This is the motor and gear reducer sitting on the mill. It is mounted permanantly now. I even left some room for washers to tighten up the chain.

This is where I decided to mount the cabinet. My hydraulic levers for the log turner are just out of the photo to the right. I can access the setworks and the hydraulic valves at the same time (don't know why I would want to but I can ;D.

I wired it all up for a test and it worked great. It didn't have a load on it yet but it worked for the test. The only big thing that is left is a wire transport type system. I have enough of the plastic cable track to build a tray the length of the mill (22') but I would need to keep the tray fairly parralell to the mill. I am also considering a pivot arm type setup like the big circle mills use. I haven't decided which path I will go with it yet.

uler3161 · November 14, 2013, 11:19:52 AM

Very nice

NMFP · November 17, 2013, 09:15:34 PM

Looking good!!!!! How do I know what size stepper motor to order for advancing the knees on my setworks? Don't want to waste too much money with trial and error.

I have more questions but have been working hard at building construction so the mill build is coming close.

hackberry jake · November 19, 2013, 05:44:31 PM

You could probably just get a decent sized motor and hook it up via chain and sprockets. Sprockets are pretty cheap and you can change the ratio fairly easily if its either under powered or too slow. I went with a 5amp system because automation technologies has a 5amp driver for $50 and a 5amp stepper for $55. To get a 7amp system it would cost more than twice that amount. You would probably be more suited for a 5amp nema 34 motor. Nema 34 motors are quite a bit bigger than my nema 23 and can make more torque. Automation tech has a nema 34 rated at 1200oz/in and 6amps. If you power it with a 5amp drive your stall torque would drop to 5/6 the rated torque or about 1000 oz/in or 5.2 ft/lb. Remember this is stall torque. The force it takes to move the rotor when its stationary. The torque the motor actually produces will be less depending on speed.

drobertson · November 19, 2013, 06:10:34 PM

Way to stick with it Jake, it looks like it won't be long, david

shelbycharger400 · December 24, 2013, 01:39:09 PM

this your project from your ideas a few years back? I think I remember talking bout it. I still have my books on programming. Look up this isbn 978_0_07_301010_6 it's programmable logic controllers with logixpro plc simulator it's Allen Bradley setup but you will learn a lot but their is no way to export your program but theirs lots you will learn, it was worth the $

hackberry jake · December 24, 2013, 03:03:36 PM

I worked on it a little bit today. I believe the code is done for the arduino. I made it to where when the home button is held down for 3 seconds. It acts like a go-to button. If cutting ties I could program one of the programmable buttons to 7" and the second programmable button to 9" and use the go-to button to make repeatable ties with minimal button presses. I haven't had much time to work on it lately but I am finished with school now so I will be posting a video of it working shortly (after Christmas and my honeymoon to winter park colorado). I will post the finished code as well with plenty of pictures for anybody that wants to build their own setworks project in the future.

hackberry jake · January 20, 2014, 04:57:24 PM

Shes alive!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc5CRJCRSE8&feature=youtu.be

Den-Den · January 20, 2014, 05:22:55 PM

Good job! Looks like it works great.

beenthere · January 20, 2014, 07:17:29 PM

That is pretty impressive.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · January 20, 2014, 07:36:45 PM

Hack.....I watched your vid. twice.

I'm proud of you....that's awesome.
I could never do something like that.
You may be the first one to make the WHEATIES BOX twice! :D :D :D

Very impressed....good job!

pineywoods · January 20, 2014, 11:13:04 PM

8) 8) Looks good ..

shortlogger · January 21, 2014, 01:21:53 AM

Pretty neat

mad murdock · January 21, 2014, 07:24:38 AM

That is slicker than sliced bread Jake!! Congratulations 8)

Magicman · January 21, 2014, 07:43:43 AM

Well, lookatyougo !!!

mmartone · January 21, 2014, 07:48:45 AM

lookin good! Now lets get one mounted on an old LT40 and try it out. Just send it to me with some instructions!

diesel pap · January 21, 2014, 08:07:50 AM

looks good 8)

MSSawmill · January 21, 2014, 03:00:21 PM

Awesome, Jake! Very nice work! I'm sorry I never got to help you out with the code, but looks like you didn't need it. I like, man...

drobertson · January 21, 2014, 07:07:03 PM

Nice work Jake, right about now I am missing my brother Kevin, he was big into making the simple better!
Lots of work there for sure, not sure how the speed will affect the amp draw but its worth a try for sure, looking forward to your next post, david

rbhunter · January 23, 2014, 07:49:30 PM

Good work. I am glad you took your idea and made it work. The video was great.

highleadtimber16 · January 23, 2014, 09:14:14 PM

Wow. That is impressive!

mad murdock · January 23, 2014, 09:43:51 PM

Ya done good 8) very neat!!

Ga Mtn Man · January 25, 2014, 11:21:59 AM

Hey Jake,

I re-read this thread and couldn't find if you are using any sort of encoder for head position. How does your setworks know where the head is?

schmism · January 25, 2014, 12:36:06 PM

I would include a micro-switch at the end of travel positions for oh-sht moments. this provides a safety so something doesnt get damaged and also serve as a reference point to re-zero the head/system.

Next thing you need to do is rig a system to your back log stops so that when its up the arduino knows what height it is and wont let the saw head go lower so you never have to worry about cutting into the back stops again.

as for your speed, try just reversing your sprokets first. 3 times faster than your current speed shouldn't be to bad although you may want to program in a cushion on the stop side. If i remember my stepper programing from college there should be a ramp up/down function you can set that will help cushion your starts/stops

When you cut frameing material you expect to use it rough sawn? or just expect for the surface to clean up good enough with just 1/16th off each side?