diode across solenoid coil

[Ga Mtn Man]

Looks like we haven't answered the OP original question.  I'm pretty sure WM uses a 5W diode.

[Magicman]

It would not be a problem to read the amperage on that circuit and fuse accordingly.

[TimRB]

I agree tim-rb, it sounds as though they are using the switch for a fuse :D

And if they're really charging 40 bucks for it, I hope they at least have the decency to point a gun at you:

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics-v10g41c24k.html?p=12057465&utm_content=3EtAJeyV&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SKUs+19&utm_source=google&utm_term=v-10g4-1c24-k&cshift_ck=865c5cf5-16c0-485d-b21b-9897d8278901cs3EtAJeyV

Anyway, it looks like the thing is rated for 10A, and presumably the solenoid takes less than that, so I would install a 10A or smaller fuse if the circuit is really only protected by a 225A fuse. 

Edit:  Sorry--I really had hoped that the forum software would truncate that ugly link.

Edit2:  And to get back to the OP--Can you see a number on the diode?  Perhaps "1N"-something?

Tim

[slider]

MM this updated fuse you are speaking of ,is it a 225 or 450.Mine uses 2 ,225' stacked together.The z type fuses did seem to break down after a while.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, rufus204. 

Yes Tim, there is the strap fuses in line with the hydraulic power strip and as rufus204 experienced, the open fuse can be very hard to see.  I have actually seen them remake contact enough to measure 12 volts, but would open back up when the hydraulic pump motor was energized.

I have gotten the updated fuse assembly that I will install before I saw again.  It still uses fuses, but not the metallic strap fuses.

Buck, I love your illustration about putting the smoke back in.   

MM, could you post a photo of your revised fuse assembly? thanks d

[Magicman]

The microswitch that WM uses has attached leads and is waterproof, etc.  I took a chance that the off of the shelf switch would work, and it has held up quite nicely.

The Super mill uses two 225 Z fuses (450) stacked because of the two hydraulic pumps.  The other mills uses only one.

I have not installed the "new" fuse assembly yet, but yes, I will picture it.

[Ga Mtn Man]

I agree tim-rb, it sounds as though they are using the switch for a fuse :D

And if they're really charging 40 bucks for it, I hope they at least have the decency to point a gun at you:

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics-v10g41c24k.html?p=12057465&utm_content=3EtAJeyV&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SKUs+19&utm_source=google&utm_term=v-10g4-1c24-k&cshift_ck=865c5cf5-16c0-485d-b21b-9897d8278901cs3EtAJeyV

Anyway, it looks like the thing is rated for 10A, and presumably the solenoid takes less than that, so I would install a 10A or smaller fuse if the circuit is really only protected by a 225A fuse. 

Edit:  Sorry--I really had hoped that the forum software would truncate that ugly link.

Edit2:  And to get back to the OP--Can you see a number on the diode?  Perhaps "1N"-something?

Tim

While I agree with you that WM charges too much for that switch if we're going to make a price comparison we should be comparing apples to apples.  WM uses an environmentally sealed switch with wire leads similar to this one:

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics-d2vw5l2a1ms.html?p=12044846

BTW, I recommend digikey for electronic component purchases.  They have no minimum order and very reasonable shipping charges.

[Magicman]

This is what I used, not what WM uses or recommends.  I snipped the leads from the old switch and crimped on spade connectors.

DigiKey

[Magicman]

MM, could you post a photo of your revised fuse assembly? thanks d

Here is a picture of the hydraulic fuse retrofit kit.


 
The cost is ~$100 which includes two of each fuse plus the new mounting block and fuse box cover.


 
This close up shows the Littlefuse Mega fuses.  I found the 450 amp fuses on Ebay for $3.50 each with free shipping.   

I will use "Ox-Gard" Anti-oxidant Compound between the fuses and the aluminum blocks.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Please tell us you're not going to spoil your beautiful salmon-colored mill by putting that garish bright orange box cover on it.

[backwoods sawyer]

MM That is good to know. Once I burn thru the stack of lead fuses I will be adding a spot of Orange as well ;D

[MartyParsons]

Hello,
I change every Super mill or larger to the new fuse block ( if the owner will let me) . I have seen the alloy fuses cause lots of issues with the things you guys are talking about. Solenoids, Alternator, Power feeds, H bridge can fail if the fuse block is the original and burnt. If you are running the original fuse block and the nylock nuts have the nylon melted out or the brown material is a black color and burnt it needs to be changed. Most times the two red wires on the upper top left is burnt back about 2" on the insulation.
When it doubt change to the new style.
Hope this helps.
Marty

Yes when you install the new fuse block it will be a little cramped and the nuts on the back will be a little bit of a challenge. Remove the stud for jumping the mill and discard, remove the solenoid to make life easier then reinstall. Any wires that look burnt cut off the end and replace the terminals. I have seen some of the metal rusted away, this is available as a new part, i always weld a new bottom in at the shop.

[backwoods sawyer]

Thanks marty I had a fire in that box a few years ago.

Does it come with a larger box option ;D seems a bit tight coupled in that one ;)