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V Belts That Last???

Started by Paddydiver, September 14, 2014, 06:35:52 PM

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Paddydiver

I have searched and searched the internet and come up with nothing >:( I'm trying to find a place (if one even exists) that makes drive V belts for bandsaw mills. I have found that timberwolf makes a urethane belt but it isn't for the drive belt. Anyone out there have a favorite brand of drive belts for their mills? I have exhausted all my local sources for V belts and have not been satisfied with how fast they pancake down to nothing really fast. The Vextera BX77 belt that i received from woodland mills worked ok but it shredded after about 15 hours of operation.
Thanks :)

rwepinetree

Have you tried banded bels they work good on my woodland K4

Magicman

I would be looking for something out of alignment (sawmill engine/sawhead, etc.) or not enough tension allowing the belt to slip.
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Quote from: Magicman on September 14, 2014, 08:21:07 PM
I would be looking for something out of alignment (sawmill engine, etc.) or not enough tension allowing the belt to slip.

say_what Now there is something to ponder.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

scully

I would be looking at why they shred so fast . It don't sound like a belt issue .
I bleed orange  .

jmouton

they  make  v-belts  with  kevlar in them ,,  in my opinion  they are stronger than  most , 



                                                                                                    jim
lt-40 wide ,,bobcat,sterling tandem flatbed log truck,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2017 f-350,oh and an edger

Cutting Edge

If you can find someone who handles Gates belts, their Green Stripe line of belts are ag. duty and will take a beating.  They sit nice and proud of the sheaves too.  Make sure you ask for a "B" series belt.  If you aren't specific, chances are you'll get stuck with an "A" series automotive grade belt that isn't meant for this application, in more ways than one.

Also, check and see if your drive pulley and driven  band wheel are aligned.  Could be that one is ahead/behind of the other.  That will wear a belt out prematurely also.  Combine that with to much or to little tension and it is hard to get any kind of service life from even the best of belts.

Hope this helps

Well, looks like MM beat me to some of it while I was typing this  ;)
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

BCsaw

Use a level or some other straight edge to align. Definitely more going on.

I used off shore "B" series belts because that was all that was in stock at the time and they have over 50 hours on them with no issues other than adjusting the tension twice. Also, are you pulleys/sheaves in good shape? Wear on the pulley is overlooked all the time.

Good luck.
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Homebuilt Band Sawmill, Kioti 2510 Loader Backhoe

bandmiller2

Paddy, what are you dumping on the band for lube.?? Just to be sure are you talking about the belts that run under the band or the belts from the engine to the band wheel. If under the band are you running them loose or are they tight in the groove. I have had the same belts on my mill since I built it 12 or so years ago and their still in good shape. I prefer belts with a slight crown. Give us some more information mate and mayby we can track this problem down. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

drobertson

Quote from: bandmiller2 on September 14, 2014, 08:44:32 PM
Paddy, what are you dumping on the band for lube.?? Just to be sure are you talking about the belts that run under the band or the belts from the engine to the band wheel. If under the band are you running them loose or are they tight in the groove. I have had the same belts on my mill since I built it 12 or so years ago and their still in good shape. I prefer belts with a slight crown. Give us some more information mate and mayby we can track this problem down. Frank C.
[/quote}]
first thought that came to my mind,  unless the alignment is off and the teeth are chewing away at the belt.  Just wonder how it saws up to the point of the belt going down.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Andy White

Paddydiver,
Since I've had my Woodland Mill, I have used two sets of belts. Neil sent me a new set when they were trying new options, and settled on a Gates #BX57 for my mill. I have had no problems since. The engine clutch pulley and the drive wheel should be in alignment, and the clutch hub should have no lateral runout. Mine does not slip nor shred. Looks like new after a year.       Andy
Learning by day, aching by night, but loving every minute of it!! Running HM126 Woodland Mill, Stihl MS290, Homemade Log Arch, JD 5103/FEL and complete woodshop of American Delta tools.

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: Paddydiver on September 14, 2014, 06:35:52 PM
I have searched and searched the internet and come up with nothing >:( I'm trying to find a place (if one even exists) that makes drive V belts for bandsaw mills. I have found that timberwolf makes a urethane belt but it isn't for the drive belt. Anyone out there have a favorite brand of drive belts for their mills? I have exhausted all my local sources for V belts and have not been satisfied with how fast they pancake down to nothing really fast. The Vextera BX77 belt that i received from woodland mills worked ok but it shredded after about 15 hours of operation.
Thanks :)

I've read this through several times and I'm still not sure which belt you are asking about.  Your reference to "pancake"-ing sounds like you're asking about the bandwheel v-belt. ???
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

dgdrls

Quote from: rwthom279 on September 14, 2014, 08:30:56 PM
If you can find someone who handles Gates belts, their Green Stripe line of belts are ag. duty and will take a beating.  They sit nice and proud of the sheaves too.  Make sure you ask for a "B" series belt.  If you aren't specific, chances are you'll get stuck with an "A" series automotive grade belt that isn't meant for this application, in more ways than one.

Also, check and see if your drive pulley and driven  band wheel are aligned.  Could be that one is ahead/behind of the other.  That will wear a belt out prematurely also.  Combine that with to much or to little tension and it is hard to get any kind of service life from even the best of belts.

Hope this helps

Well, looks like MM beat me to some of it while I was typing this  ;)

Another reason this board is so fantastic.  What a great tip!!

Thank you rwthom279
Best
DGDrls

Paddydiver

The way my mill is set up there are two belts on the mill. One is on the pulley wheel just to pad the blade. The other is the drive belt that also catches the blade. I use soapy water to lube my blades. I'll put a level on the drive wheel and see if its aligned and let ya guys know.
Thanks for all the advice
8) Its much appreciated

Cutting Edge

Paddydiver,

Quote from: Paddydiver on September 16, 2014, 10:54:25 PM
I'll put a level on the drive wheel and see if its aligned and let ya guys know.

What you need to do is align the centrifugal clutch on the engine AFTER you have your blade properly tracking on your bandwheels.  If you align the two before, it will be off when you adjust the tracking of the driven bandwheel. 

IMO, the best way is to do the above first, remove the blade, then visually sight down the belt from the engine/clutch to the driven bandwheel.  When tightening the bolt (under the engine mount) used for tensioning the drive belt on your mill, the drive belt will "rack" your engine in the opposite direction needed.  You may need to find a way to counteract this by using wedges between the engine base and your blade guard.  Using a pry bar or similar will work, but that only leaves you one hand to manage a wrench and a ratchet... a second person would be helpful.

Might take a little time and patience to get it all tracking the right way.  Good Luck.
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

EZ BOARWALK _40

I just ordered a new one for my sawmill  from the manufacturer.  I also saw one that Timber Wolf makes that is supposed to last 5x longer than others. 

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