what to look for when buying a used saw?

[shinnlinger]

Hello,

Sometimes there are some good looking saws on CL for some pretty good prices.  Sometimes a little too good but hey if thats all the seller wants who am I to judge? 

Anywho I was thinking a thread on this for folks to chime in on could be a good reference for all when taking the plunge on a used saw. 

[chevytaHOE5674]

Cylinder compression and overall condition.

[beenthere]

I think of it as buying someone else's problems when buying used. After all, there usually is a reason (suspected or known) that a person is selling.
Finding out what that problem is before buying is often pretty tough to do.

[sawguy21]

I check compression, spark and look at the overall condition (usually they won't start). I assume it needs carb work and fuel lines , if it looks rode hard and put up wet the offer drops if I decide I want it.

[Skioutty]

I bought a lightly used Sthil MS192tc used back in June.
When I met the guy I brought some oak with me and make some cuts. I made sure it started nicely and ran smooth, with no change in sound under load. And checked to see it was spitting oil off the bar. It turned out to be a fantastic saw at 200 bucks!

[ktowne030311]

i just recently bought a Stihl 051 ave with a brand new bar and an extra chain for 125$. guy originally was asking 200$. seemed like a decent guy, saw was in well kept shape, started right up after a couple pulls. turns out he had back surgery and couldnt handle such a big saw anymore. good deals are out there, just gotta keep your eyes peeled 

[sonnyboy53]

Checking compression is the most important thing.  It's saved me from buying junk a couple of times this summer.  And I agree, you have to assume you'll need a carb rebuild since most folks use regular gas with ethanol.

[Enderslbz]

Personally I love buying things with busted recoil ropes.   90% of the time people were just too lazy to fix it.  But the last CL saw I bought the rope had been removed all together, I suspect so they could say they didn't know if it ran or not. It didn't, but I was buying it for parts anyways, so no biggie. I want to think that people are as honest as me, but I know that isn't the case, so buying used is always a gamble.

[brettl]

Take off the muffler to look at the piston and cylinder if the seller will allow. Do a compression check.  Look under the clutch cover, check the plug and air filter. Beware of saws with brand new bars, plastic, etc., this could be a wore out saw dressed up to sell. Know the saw you're looking at or take someone who does. 4 eyes are better than 2.

If the seller won't let me cut enough wood to get it up to temp, I'll pass, unless it's a parts saw of course. The exception is buying from reputable sellers on here and AS.

[Jiles]

I have bought and sold many saws on CL. When buying, I listen to the seller and form a character profile.
I never remove a muffler, you can run into many problems if YOU damage something! If they agree to remove the muffler, after your request ---Fine.
If necessary take wood to cut and get the saw hot and restart. If saw has been abused, it should be evident.
Ask questions and if any false or questionable information is given, walk away!
If seller volunteers information without my request, I am much more comfortable.
When I sell a saw, or anything, for that matter, I always point out any bad things about item and that is probably the reason first looker usually buys.

[brettl]

You make an excellent point jiles.  I've twisted exhaust studs a few Times on my own saws. Sure wouldn't want do do that to a sellers saw.

[weimedog]

It depends.

I just want a clean set of cases & all the plastic & bits & pieces. I would rather build the saw and a saw that's not complete will be nickel & dime hell.

For a non saw geek... who is wanting a running machine..

Still depends.

Depends on the dealer support first to pick brand. OR mechanical skill set.

Best all around used saw... a complete & running first generation Husqvarna 365/372. Billions of parts available online. Parts are cheap. They are easy to work on. Just that simple. They are reasonably light, very powerful and one of the best all around saws ever built.

Look for one complete, reasonably clean with no chunks broken out of either the cases or plastic. If it starts easy AND idles nice... AND runs and then you can shut it off & restart with no "hi-idle" set. Buy it. Should spend around 400-450 for a good one.

If its complete & reasonably clean but HARD to start and won't restart easily after working a bit. Still buy it. Just only pay 250-300 and build it.

That's my story & I'm sticking to it. 

[John Mc]

The first advice I would give someone looking for a used saw is to spend some time up front to figure out what size range you need. Then have the patience to wait for a good example to come available in that size range, rather than jumping on the first nice looking saw you see. Match the saw to your needs, both in terms of what and how frequently you are cutting, and in terms of what works for you, physically.

Weimedog outlined one very good option in the 70cc range, and I agree that it is a top notch, all-around saw. However, lugging around 13-1/2 pounds of saw (not including bar, chain, fuel and oil) isn't for everyone or every situation. If you are cutting mostly smaller trees, you may want a smaller saw - no need to haul around the extra weight if you don't need it. (I tend to suffer from the weekend warrior syndrome: long periods without touching a chainsaw, followed by some intensive cutting over several days, often then followed by a visit to the chiropractor. so I opt for the lightest saw that will get the job done in a reasonable time. - given what I'm cutting, this tends to be a good-quality 50 or 60cc saw.)

[Tiewire]

In what range should the compression be on a stock saw?

[Randy88]

I've been running saws all my life, my advice is this, if you don't know what to look for in a used saw, go buy new, save yourself a lot of grief and cash in the long run, I used to buy used stuff but in the last few years, it seems I'd rather have new, trade and keep up on a more modern saw with a warranty, and basically its new again and we start over.     

I'll agree with beenthere on this one, first you have to figure out why the person is getting rid of the saw, then figure out how it was taken care of and go from there.    I've bought used, new and every where in between over the years, have had over a dozen saws, most of which I've worn out or the brand went out of business and parts couldn't be gotten anymore.   

The very first thing I'd do before even looking for a used saw is find out who's going to fix it for you in your area, then find a brand they work on, I don't care how great any saw is, they all need repairs, and parts to keep them going and if there is nobody in your area that works on or can get the parts needed, you don't have something that will do you any good in the long run.   Then narrow down what size your looking for and go from there, just because its for sale and appears to be a good deal, doesn't mean its the case at all.   In fact when I was looking for used stuff, nothing ended up being a good deal and we bought used from someone I trusted and did business with, I'd never buy anything from an individual unless I knew exactly who they were, how they took care of stuff and it was indeed a very good deal, about free in fact.    But that's just me and decades of experience to back it up, now I buy new, and only new, from someone I trust and who fixes the stuff they sell me.       

I'd do far more research on the repair people in your area and find one people will recommend verses looking for a used saw, then go there and buy a used saw from them, since they are the one who's going to be doing the fixing of it anyhow, is what I'd do, let them do the research and figure out what's wrong with a saw, and then over time, save up and trade it back off for a new saw from the same person and start a relationship that will save you thousands over the course of your life, you know support local business in your area.   I've found that by doing business locally, have a relationship going with my fix it people, yes I'm keeping them open and giving them money, but they also keep my going and I'm making money, and in the meanwhile, my fix it people will be there when I need them.    Just my two cents worth.     

[John Mc]

Well said, Randy

[TLahti]

Unless you are an expert in small engine repair, it does not pay to buy a saw unless it starts and runs like new.
   I have learned small engine repair over the years.
Even then, sometimes I get screwed on a used deal.
  The worst thing to buy, is a saw that has a burned out ignition coil.
Once, I saw spark on a spark plug, but when I tried to start the saw, it would not fire. I tested for spark again, and there was none. The ignition coil was $75, and I did not want to invest in a new coil to see if the rest of the saw was worn out.
  Also, it is amazing how some people destroy everything. I have seen some saws that had every screw stripped, and the piston had been siezed, and the bar bent, and the cases cracked.
   I have had good luck with old McCullochs, I have collected 8 saws over the last 5 years, I have a 55, two 10-10s, a promac 700, and four 610s.
    The 700 was $50, and all the rest were $25 or less.
I prefer saws that are all aluminum, plastic parts started about 1980.
   I just used the 55 last weekend, that saw is a 1968 model, it has ignition points, and it still runs good.
  However, it is loud and heavy, but that is fine with me.
We burn 10 cords of wood a year, so I am more than a casual user.
  Terry