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Thickness for siding lumber

Started by reswire, December 06, 2014, 05:14:48 PM

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reswire

I recently milled siding for a neighbor of mine, and for the horizontal siding on his cabin he wanted 1/2" poplar boards.  The carpenter and I both wanted to cut the lumber at least 3/4" but he insisted on a 1/2" depth.  (At first he asked for 3/8", was able to bump it up to 1/2").  I went back to see the siding this week, and he complained that the siding was "curling" up on the bottom edge, but I quickly reminded him the wood was still partially green, and the depth of the lumber was his decision.  I also noticed that he had installed a woodstove inside his hunt cabin, and I believe the wood heat had dried the back of the wood faster than the front side, causing some of the trouble.  I never like to get in the middle of a carpenter/owner decision, I simply want to mill to the customer spec., however when a friend is involved, you hate to see them end up with a poor job.  My initial concern was with splitting and cracking, and I didn't offer any suggestions on the installation of the siding, one way or the other.  I did notice he wasn't nailing the boards close to the bottom edge, and I think this could have been part of the problem.   Anyone else have experience with cutting siding like this for a cabin?  I didn't have a siding adapter to cut an angle on the boards, so I guess 1/2" was  a good depth for an average.  Whatcha think?   ???
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

Chuck White

Any lap siding I've ever sawn has always been 1"x 8",  1/2" is too thin in my opinion.

The biggest obstacle in your case was the customer insisted on 1/2" thickness!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.  Recently purchased a 2020 Mahindra Roxor.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Dave Shepard

You just have to charge more for sawing less than 1". :D with the exception of some 1/2"x3" battens, I have never sawed thinner then 1".
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

beenthere

Am a thinking it is his problem now, not yours. You sawed it to his specs.

And if curling like you say, it likely is not because of wood heat on the backside, but more due to the exposed surface drying (and shrinking) while the backside stays wetter. Likely will not improve over time either.

Nailing is critical, and a catch-22 if trying to fight shrinkage of the wood and keeping it nailed flat without splitting out.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

ozarkgem

I guess it depends on the species. I set my saw on 1/2 and made lap cedar(erc) siding.
Been on a yr and no problems. Use wood heat but very well insulated.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

Chuck White

Cedar acts a lot different than Poplar!

I charge 1" price for everything 1" and thinner!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.  Recently purchased a 2020 Mahindra Roxor.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

thecfarm

Are you saying all that he used was ½ boards against the studs?
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

reswire

That was all.  No insulation, with 1" boards on the inside.  Plenty of air gaps for sure. :D  I really think the woodstove played a role as well.  It was only supposed to be a cabin used during hunting season, but his wife spends a lot of time there with him, and of course she likes to stay warm.  It does look pretty good for what it is used for, but he didn't build it for a "live in" home.  I think that was the reason for the shortcuts. 

Most people, including myself sometimes, start off with meager plans that turn a little more extravagant as the project progresses.  It was only 12x20, with a small porch on the front.  His wife tagged along for deer season, and now he probably will make something larger and better built.  He has 30 acres to work with, and hopefully he won't run out of decent trees to mill... ;D
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

reswire

Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

reswire

Then that must be you on the roof! Do you use it often?  Sure looks nice.
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

thecfarm

That would be me.
What do you think.......



 

It's a very nice building to sit inside and enjoy the summer. Porch is a nice sitting area too.
This is the thread on it.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,69197.0.html
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Knute

I sided my garage with 5/8 thick poplar and basswood about 13 years ago and it worked fine. I did sticker stack and dry the wood before installation. Also placed it over 1/2" plywood.

drobertson

there's no doubt that 1/2" is too thin for outside siding, no if ands or buts about it.  And to not nail up proper is an additional head ache for sure,   I've seen many of folks try to get the most coverage from there logs using thin stock only to have regrets after the fact.   I have an order of 3/4" coming up and cringe just a little on this one myself, but it's what they want.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Peter Drouin

I just got an order for 3000 lf of live edge siding I make it all 3/4" WPine
Looks like this


  

 
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

½" is too thin for me, plus if he turned the pith side of the boards inward, he made it worse. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WDH

Peter,

How do you remove the bark?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Good job Peter.....I've always wanted to know....how long does a lapped Pine roof last?
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: WDH on December 06, 2014, 08:55:21 PM
Peter,

How do you remove the bark?

I'll bet thats not GREEN pine. Sometimes I take tear old Pine logs and lift them up with the backhoe...drop them and all the barks peels off.
I may be wrong about Peters technic though....just guessing.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

reswire

I had forgotten how good "live edge" siding could be.  That is one awesome little shed!
Norwood LM 30, JD 5205, some Stihl saws, 15 goats, 10 chickens, 1 Chessie and a 2 Weiner dogs...

Peter Drouin

Quote from: WDH on December 06, 2014, 08:55:21 PM
Peter,

How do you remove the bark?



Draw knife as they come off the mill, I made a jig to put them in.



Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on December 06, 2014, 08:57:46 PM
Good job Peter.....I've always wanted to know....how long does a lapped Pine roof last?



Without putting a sealer on it 8 to 10 years.


Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on December 06, 2014, 08:59:51 PM
Quote from: WDH on December 06, 2014, 08:55:21 PM
Peter,

How do you remove the bark?

I'll bet thats not GREEN pine. Sometimes I take tear old Pine logs and lift them up with the backhoe...drop them and all the barks peels off.
I may be wrong about Peters technic though....just guessing.



The greener the better. I can't sell blue stain. :D :D :D :D :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

WDH

The jig is a good idea.  Can you post a pic of it?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Peter Drouin

I'm cutting some this week, I'll get one, It's not fancy.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

FarmingSawyer

Are both edges live Peter? Or do you square up 3 sides and then slice the boards with 1 live edge? Either way it looks great!
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

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