Sealing Logs

[Rookie]

I'm a newbie, and was wondering if latex paint would work as a sealant for the end of cut logs?  I have a lot of old paint lying around that I'd like to put to use before buying something commercially.  Thanks for your input!
  

[Tom]

Latex doesn't do much but color the end of the log.  It's gotta be better'n nothing though and you could use it up on some of your logs that you don't consider too valuable.

Oil based paint is better, but still not the answer.  Glopping it on ASAP is the only way to possibly make it work.  Once the ends of the logs begin to dry and crack, Paint won't stop the damage.

Commercial, wax-based sealers are the real answer. They should also be put on a fresh cut and not wait till the wood has dried.  But, they will seal the end of the wood better than home remedies.  

Some folks have claimed to use melted parafin but it sounds like a lot of work to me.

[woodbeard]

It works. Many say it doesn't work nearly as well as Anchorseal, etc. but many others say It works as good as anything. George Nakashima used latex paint exclusively.
In my limited experience, paint has worked fairly well, but not as well as parrafin wax.
 The real key is to seal the ends as soon as possible. That will maximise the effectiveness of whatever you are using.

[rebocardo]

Thought I would throw in on this. I tried paint ( Rustoleum etc.) and the results were okay. Then I coughed up the bucks for end sealer from Bailey's. It does a much better job. imo. I have only been using it about two months so far, but, I am happy with the results. Plus, I can seal it and work and not worry about if it will wash out of the clothes like paint. I think the paint goes much farther into the end grain too.

[ElectricAl]

We had a customer use Latex paint on 2000' of Walnut.

Painted the logs once a day for 4 days. Just a couple end splits, but seemed to work.

The key is to "Seal" the ends.  So more paint is better.

We only use Anchorseal one our logs though.

Keep in mind:
Logs and lumber dry the fastest through the End Grain

[WoodSmith]

Newbie question
Do you seal the logs to be sawn at a later date?
Do you seal only hard wood, is it necessary to seal soft wood as well?
Is it to prevent serious checking, to maximize useable wood length?

[beenthere]

Woodsmith
I believe the end sealing is to maximize the useable length of the wood (reduces end checking), can help on softwood as well as hardwood, and works better the sooner it is applied after cutting the tree or bucking it into logs. There are diminishing returns the longer one waits to end seal the wood.

The point is the sealer stops moisture from escaping from the end grain all through the length of time the wood is in the various processing stages (from tree, to log, to green lumber, to dry lumber).

Wax is better as a vapor barrier than any paint. However, as is noted, paint is better than nothing and, depending on a lot of variables, may be good enough.

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Hey Rookie!

If among the paint you have some elastomeric roof coating, which is a rubbery acrylic-based material,  you could be in business.  It actually out-performs log sealers, but it costs about 30% more.   Available at big supply chains and at roofing supply companies.  It won't wash off in the rain as some end sealers do.
Phil L.

[rvrdivr]

I use parifin to seal my logs. It's about  $1.70 a pound at walmart and is sold as Gulf Wax. As Tom mentioned, it is a lot of work but for small scale sawers like me it works just fine.

I use a large coffee can and heat up the wax on the stove on low. then I'll use a paint brush to paint my ends. I can get a lot done before it cools to much, usually the whole can which will be 3/4 full.

Use a electric stove to do this. An open flame is not advisable cause the wax becomes flamable if it gets to hot.
Also heat in a well ventilated area. If you had a portable plug in electric burner to bring out doors it would be better.

I notice that the wax melts in on the sun side end of my logs and after several months of weathering, may need another coat.
I have logs that have been waiting for me to saw them up now for 6 months or so and I have not yet had a checking problem using this wax.

To answer your other question, I coat my ends to store my logs and the ones I cut right away. If the log has a good wax coating when you saw it, you shouldn't have to reseal it after it's cut, as long as you are cutting the lenth of the log. There's no reason not to cut it up first and then seal, as long as the log is fresh or only a few days old. This may save you sealer.
I have not sealed pine. Usually it will have enough sap to seal itself.

This wax works for me down here in hot Florida but the wax may not "grab" the wood well enough for you guys and gals in our cold northern states.
I would be interested to hear if anyone has had a problem using hot wax on a cold log?

Hope this helps

[AtLast]

I will be the first to promot left over house paint.....I have ALWAYS used it and swear by it......may take a coat or 2 BUT all in all ya cant beat the price or the results.