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WM Roller Guide - took a hit and broke off

Started by Andries, January 22, 2015, 07:18:55 PM

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Andries

Thanks for the input and advice people.
Goose 63 had pointed out the 'on-board' electronics being sensitive to welding in a PM last night.
My 1992 LT30 is manual and about as basic as WM has ever made - so at least I won't have to worry about an Accuset or transponder getting fried.
Marty, thanks for the comments and really, someday I WILL have a mill thats 2002 or newer.  :D
Jake, good comment on mobile welders, but I think I'll pull the mill away from the extensions and into the shop.
I'm the second owner of this mill and, not to get too graphic about the details, but his work crews were related to Fred Flinstone - y'know what I mean . . .
I'm going to replace the battery box (bottom and side acid-rusted out) the blade guide assembly (been smacked into logs and is bent).
I've been told by the timber framer that I work with that there's a ton of work coming my way in the next six months - so the time is right for giving the old mill some TLC.
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

pineywoods

I broke off the outboard guide. Positioned it back by eyeball and welded it with a stick welder. It was off a bit, but had enough adjusment range to get it back in specs...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

j-dland

    I agree with Marty, you have the re-fit kit, use it. Would also like to add , any good fabricator\welder could easily remove the mounting block, reattach to the guide, with a four sided weld, not three, then re attach the whole assembly. Sometimes you need cheaper\quicker solutions. Just sayin. On the subject of electronics, it is always good practice to remove battery cables before any welding on any equipment with any electronics!
David

pine

As was already referenced. 
Any electronics that are on the mill isolate them.  Disconnect the battery, the ground cable, the power cable, and keep the welding clamp close to the point of welding/electrode.  With electronics you can never be too careful when welding.  Don't have a WM but have read enough of other folks woes on odd electronic issues to be careful.  I am certain that the WM instructions address this quite well as they know what they are doing.

Andries

An update on the 'hit and broke' thread . . .
After detaching the mill from the extensions, I hauled it to the welder's shop. Ordinarily that would be a two hour job, but we're enjoying winter here folks, so I've put this off for a few of those windchill days.
My welding guy had to look around for a steel rule with 1/32" graduations (he's used to working with mm's) and after cutting, grinding, marking and tacking it looked good. So, he ran a good strong bead around the entire block.

A bit of paint to slow the rust down and away we go. The bolts were there to keep welding splatter from getting into the threaded holes.
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Andries

Looks like this with the mounting block bolted on.



That red colour sure looks awful next to that spanking new orange. Might want to cover that with sawdust soon.
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Andries

Marty Parsons mentioned in reply #22 that the WM mills that are built 2002 and newer are set up this way.
So, lets see . . .  as I keep the repairs going, it'll be about . .  . 2038 and I'll have converted my entire mill to a new version!   :D
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ga Mtn Man

Looks like he did a good job on the welding.  Bet you won't be breaking that off anytime soon.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Chuck White

Glad to see you've gotten you mill repaired.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.  Recently purchased a 2020 Mahindra Roxor.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

4x4American

Little late now, but still good to know, they make surge protectors for when you're welding on things with computers.  I always had to remember to put one on (and take it off) when I worked at a Western Star dealer because of all the computers on the trucks.  A friend who is big into mud bogging/dirt racing told me that at one bog he was at his arch nemesis' brother was welding on a truck after they broke something, anyways once he was done they tried to start it up but it wouldn't turn over.  Can anyone guess what happened?  Always keep the ground as close as you can when welding on cars, trucks, sawmills, tractors, etc.  It is also very important to have a clean ground. 

Anyways, looks good, I don't think it's going anywhere anytime soon. 
Boy, back in my day..

drobertson

 Good fix, thanks for showing us the process.  Oh yea, there is a least one knuckle head down here ;D I have to work with him everyday, heck of a nice guy, just at times dumber than a sock of rocks.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

MartyParsons

Hello,
Nice weld job. The bolts on the right and left are course thread and the top and bottom are fine thread? That looks strange. They should be all fine thread.  ???  Did you change it or did it come that way? No big deal as long as you get your adjustment.
I replace a few of these a year. Most times the square hole is not square any more and the roller moves.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Andries

Quote from: MartyParsons on February 08, 2015, 08:03:35 AM
Hello,
Nice weld job. The bolts on the right and left are course thread and the top and bottom are fine thread? That looks strange. They should be all fine thread.  ???  Did you change it or did it come that way?
Marty
My bad Marty. You've got a good eye and I posted a fuzzy pic. The adjustment bolts are all fine thread, and stainless steel to boot. Nice! (I didn't change anything that WM sent me. Not THAT brave.)
Here's a better pic.

LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

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